London, England – April 1999

By Stacy Ashworth   |   April 1st, 1999   |   Comments (0)
Traveler Article

New This Month

ABBA! The long awaited musical “Mamma Mia” is premiering

April 6 at the Prince Edward Theatre. Check out the web

site at http://www.mamma-mia.com.

For a complete listing of the west end, visit www.albemarle-london.com.

Great Eats

Khans Tandoori Restaurant in Bayswater (13 Westbourne Gro)-

it’s loud and cramped, the food is cheap and good, and with

waiters this pushy the atmosphere is great. The line up

looks long, but the turnover is remarkably quick so you

won’t have wait long – the down side to this is they give

you plastic cups to finish your beers outside as soon as

your food is gone, but that’s part of the charm.

To See & Do

A walk along the non-park side of Park Lane takes you past

many excellent car makers, McLaren in particular, who proudly

display their amazing machines in the front windows, much

to the pleasure of gawking droolers like me. Plus many celebs

frequent this area, usually out for a stroll on a nice day.

Nightlife

I personally live within a two minute walk of about 15 pubs,

so I don’t think finding a pub in London is an issue. The

issue (aside from finding one that doesn’t close at 11pm)

is finding a bar that isn’t a pub, unfortunately as they

are some what of a novelty they are a little pricey. MASH

(19 Great Portland St) is a great micro-brewery that’s got

imposing Mario Brothers-esque kettles and comfy mod chairs.

Shopping

If you’re a suit, or a woman that likes to shop for one,

Jermyn Street is a the place to shop. Independent shirtmakers

and suitmakers in shops that have been there for centuries

line this little street off Picadilly Circus. Although it’s

a little pricey, the quality is high and even if you don’t

buy anything tha accordianist makes it interesting.

Insider’s Tip

Important stuff I have learned since moving here last

summer:

Stuff closes early, most shops are closed by 5:30, and

the “late night” for Oxford Street is Thursday, but the

shops still close at 8:00.

Most galleries and museums also close ridiculously early,

but sometimes have one late night per week.

Worst of all pubs close at 11pm, the trick is to find

one with curtains, who will be nice enough to close them

and let you stay in and serve you till the wee hours of

the morn – provided you’re nice to the staff. You can drink

alcohol on the street. Yes, you can order a pint to go and

with your plastic cup’o'beer stroll through Trafalgar Square.

You hardly have to tip: never bartenders, never cabbies,

never hairdressers (mine shoved the fiver back into my hand

while snapping “I said it was 30 pounds, not 35!”). However

you should tip at restaurants if service isn’t included

in the bill.

Although you can get 1/2 price tickets in Leicester Square,

they are subject to a service fee. If you have an ISIC card

you can usually get deep discounted tickets directly at

the theatre a ½ hour before the show (but check with the theatre

first as not all do this).

Trafalgar Square

Trafalgar Square

General info on London

London’s huge. It’s also crowded and buzzing with an energy all

it’s own. With the exception of wildlife you can find everything

you’ve ever dreamt of – for a price. When coming here the number

one thing you can count on is that you’re not going to be bored.

The number two thing is that you’re going to spend a lot more

money than you planned (even considering most museums & galleries

are free).

Guide Book Update

I know many guide books are highly recommending the Museum of

Mankind just off Bond Street, and I trudged 1/2 hour to see this

wondrous collection only to find out that it’s closed. It is currently

being relocated to the British Museum and will not be on display

for a few years – probably just in time for the next guidebook

update!

Recommended Readings

Edward Rutherford’s “London.” Okay okay, it’s a long book, but

if you have a long plane ride the payoff is excellent. There’s

so much more to be had from the city when you can walk around

and understand how the things you’re seeing got there.

Getting Around

I know all guidebooks will tell you to take black cabs, and they

are pretty cool but also pretty expensive. You can get much cheaper

travel by finding a minicab, with whom you can negotiate the price

upfront. They are really easy to find at night, they hang around

outside of night clubs and other attractions, and they’re listed

in the phone book if you want to get one from your hotel.

Where to Find Info

The what’s on bible for most Londoners is “Time Out” which is

widely available and comes out weekly for 1.80. They also have

a good website. Every

Thursday the very similar (though not as comprehensive) guide

“Hot Tickets” comes

free with the 35p Evening Standard – which is sold on all street

corners.

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