New York City, USA – May 1999

So, I hate to start off my first slice of New York with

a list of the conventional, but that is what May seems to

bring out in residents of this town: a celebration of the

(suddenly more livable) every-day.

Regulars of dark and tucked-away dives and basement clubs

filter into the streets of the Village, students and 9-to-5ers

emerge from hibernation to sip coffee outdoors, weekend

trippers fill the sidewalk tables of Little Italy, and even

the Wall Street suits venture into the borders of the park

for lunch hour.

A collective awareness comes over us: Maybe there are reasons

we love this place. You see, although most New Yorkers will

defend their metropolis with unparalleled stubbornness,

the long months of winter take their toll.

After the first few weeks of seeing nothing but strips

of gray clouds between the skyscrapers, one tends to forget

that this is quite possibly the most excellent city on earth.

And then suddenly, the sky is blue, the air is warm, and

the crucial transition is made from drinking-to-forget to

drinking-to-celebrate.

The best place to witness re-awakened New Yorkers in action

is outdoors. Head for NYU (for those of you used to universities

in the rest of the world, this "campus" is distinguished

only by the sudden abundance of purple flags) and spend

some afternoon hours in Washington Square Park.

With sidewalk artists, practicing guitarists, and the world¹s

only (as far as I know) comedy venue-fountain, it’s a great

place to get a feel for the city.

Dendur

For a more "wilderness" experience (NYC style)

there is, of course, Central Park: home, I would venture,

to the most diverse group of park-goers ever assembled.

Bring a picnic, dance to an improvised Cuban drum performance,

go rollerblading, restore childlike wonder at the 4pm sealion

feeding in the zoo, pay tribute to John Lennon, or listen

to the rain cascade onto the broad windows of the Met’s

Temple of Dendur.

If all of the Starbuck’s of Manhattan are getting to you,

and you seek a reminder that New York is, in fact, inhabited

by individuals, a worthwhile trek is in order to the rarely

visited community gardens of Roosevelt Island.

Take the tram from 59th St. and 2nd Ave, enjoy the view

over the East River, and walk up to the northern end of

the island. There stretches a beautiful garden composed

of tiny squares, each maintained by an individual or family

who lives on the island. It’s one of the small glimpses

of community you find in a city of nine million.

For an outdoor, all-American experience in a different

kind of park, now is the perfect time of year to catch a

baseball game. (Think crowds, hot dogs, and all the excitement

a game of cricket lacks). Head to Yankee

Stadium in the Bronx for a Yankees game – or, for a

slightly less rowdy and exciting experience – Shea Stadium,

home of the Mets.

Bleacher seats can be purchased on the day of the game

for under $10, but be prepared to spend an equal amount

on two "beers" (Bud Light).

If you’re not an English speaker, a Yankee game in the

bleachers is a great opportunity to pick up some expressions

you won’t find in your phrase book, as other loyal fans

provide helpful suggestions to the umpire and the away team.

If all of your exploring has made you hungry, there are

endless choices for dining in the city. For a filling meal

for $4, try the breakfast special at La Rosita – where you

will seldom, if ever, find a single tourist. The special

of this local place at 111th St. and Broadway includes a

plate piled with rice, beans and eggs (or plantains), buttered

bread, and a cup of coffee.

Across the street at Tom’s diner are the best milkshakes

in existence.

If your budget is a bit larger, the most delicious Indian

food I have found in the city is at Poona, 72nd St. between

Broadway and Amsterdam. For a unique atmosphere and delicious

Ethiopian food, there is Abyssinia, at Grant St. and Thompson

in Soho.

All of the above have vegetarian choices, but for a completely

vegetarian experience try Zen Palate: one at 34 Union Square,

and the other at 2170 Broadway, around 76th St.

After dinner, there are countless coffee and dessert places

in the village, or head up to my personal favorite, Cafe

Lalo (three words: chocolate truffle cake), on 83rd St.

between Broadway and Amsterdam.

To top off the evening go bar hopping almost anywhere…

pick a street in the village, or stroll (wobble/stagger)

up Amsterdam Ave in the 80s. There’s always tomorrow…




General Info Section

New York. The Big Apple. The City That Never Sleeps.

Home of the Empire State Building, the Statue of Liberty, the Village, Broadway.

Hundreds of "Gap’s", thousands of suicidal taxi drivers, millions

of residents, and – for those of you uninterested in any of the

above – infinite places to get a cold beer.

Pack light: you can buy anything you’ve forgotten at an exorbitant price.

Longing for Milo or Vegemite? Try Chinatown. Unable to sleep without

your foreign brew? Try Peculiar Pub. Looking for company? Just step

outside…

NYC is comprised of five boroughs: Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, the

Bronx, and Staten Island.

Most travelers stick to Manhattan, but the more adventurous (and those

with a few more days here) will find that exploring the outer boroughs

is about as "off-the-beaten-track" as you can get here.

Whatever your scene may be, you will not be disappointed: museum goers, fine

diners, people watchers, tormented writers, sight-seers, all-night

clubbers… this is the place.

Descend into the smoky depths of a no-cover jazz club, retrace the

steps of your favorite Seinfeld episode, enjoy lo mein while being

serenaded by scantily clad transvestites. Be brave. Blend in. (it¹s

hard to stand out). And don’t sleep too much… you¹ll miss something.

When you arrive, check out the tourist office in Times Square. Grab

a subway map and get oriented. Figure out your priorities, drop

off your pack, and set out.

Some helpful sites on NYC:

Try New York sidewalk.com

for more mainstream current info. There’s always the Village Voice, although picking up an actual copy (free) would be better, because the real scoop is in the ads.

The "Official" NYC site.

New York related sites

(museums, teams, etc).

For listings of arts events in the city, try the front of The New Yorker

magazine.




As for me, I’ve spent the last 5 years here in Manhattan. I’m originally

from Philadelphia.

Despite

my love of NYC, I take every possible opportunity to flee the country.

It’s part of a running dilemma I have, choosing between streams/stars

and public transport/great used book stores.

Currently

I teach science in Brooklyn, but I am eagerly awaiting my unemployment

in June so I can un-settle down.

As a warning, I am slightly biased towards places of interest for people-watching,

hiking, stout beer, and all things chocolate.

Happy travels!



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