Moscow, Russia - June 1999
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Celebrate Two Centuries of Pushkin in June
June 6 is Pushkin's two hundredth birthday, and every shop in Moscow is already displaying his picture. There will be lots of celebrations around the city that day. A sure spot to hear people reciting Pushkin (and see lots of flowers) is at the base of the Pushin statue in Pushkin Square, metro Puskinskaya.
For The Bolshoi Theatre, June is an important month for two reasons: First, they'll be featuring Pushkin, like practically every other cultural centre in the Russian universe. Second, it's the last month of theatre season, which means if you want to 'get' some real culture before September, you'd better hurry. Here's the Bolshoi's June schedule:
01.06 | Aida | Opera | ||
02.06 | Gala Concert | |||
03.06 | La Traviata | Opera | ||
04.06 | Cipollino | Ballet | ||
05.06 | Anniversary Concert | |||
06.06 | Gala Concert | |||
08.06 | Eugene Onegin | Opera | ||
09.06 | Balda, Insomnia | Ballet | ||
10.06 | Boris Gudonov | Opera | ||
11.06 | Queen of Spades | Opera | ||
12.06 | Balda, Insomnia | Ballet | ||
13.06 | The Golden Rooster | Opera | ||
15.06 | Boris Gudonov | Opera | ||
16.06 | Balda, Insomnia | Ballet | ||
17.06 | Concert | |||
18.06 | Swan Lake | Ballet | ||
19.06 | Eugene Onegin | Opera | ||
20.06 | Yolanta (matinee) | Opera | ||
20.06 | The Little Humpback Horse | Ballet | ||
22.06 | Oprichnik | Opera | ||
23.06 | Anyuta | Ballet | ||
24.06 | La Traviata | Opera | ||
25.06 | Don Quixote | Ballet | ||
26.06 | La Molinara (matinee) | Opera | ||
26.06 | Oprichnik | Opera | ||
27.06 | Don Quixote | Opera | ||
28.06 | Gala Concert |
Unfortunately, most of these performances sold out weeks ago. But there's still hope. Try the "day before" or "day of" ticket window at the Bolshoi Box Office (around the corner from the theatre, at 1/10 Bolshoi Dmitrovka): Go in the building and go to the ticket windows off to the left. You should pay face value for those tickets.
Failing that, the ticket scalpers outside can produce tickets to almost any 'sold-out' performance. While places catering to foreigners (like Intourist) will sell a $7 ticket for about $50 (no haggling, thank you), the scalpers will sell you a 50 cent ticket for $6.50 and up--and if you're the haggling type, you can often get one for less.
And speaking of Aleksandr Sergeivich...
One of the many places near Moscow where you can follow in Pushkin's footsteps - but one of the few that's not on the tour groups itinerary - is the village of Zakharovo.
Pushkin came here for the first time, to visit his grandmother's house, when he was six, and he spent six subsequent summers here, falling in love with Russian village life. His grandmother's house is being reconstructed, but you can visit a Pushkin museum nearby in Vyazyomy.
The Moscow Times The Exile (weekly, The Moscow Tribune (daily, entertainment guide on For more websites with information on Russia in If you're planning to stick around for a while, It shows every street, every building, every tram, Laundry Head up the short flight of stairs and go in the Don't use the do-it-yourself dry-cleaning though Trade-In They'll take your old books and give you a credit Bonus: couches where you can relax, flip through Homesick? Questions & Comments For more reading see Lonely Anything you'd like to ask or add? Drop me a line I'm the one with the flopping-soles, gaping-holes
The beautiful house belonged to the Golitsyn family, distant relatives who he used to visit (Princess Golitsyn was the real-life model for the countess in The Queen of Spades). Inside you can tour the period furnished main floor and see exhibits related to Pushkin on the top floor. Pushkin's younger brother is buried in the nearby church graveyard. The museum is closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
For the best idea of what's going on city-wide
- and there's always a lot, from plays and ballets to concerts
and exhibitions, check out one of the English language newspapers:
(daily, weekend entertainment guide in the Friday
issue)
with good restaurant and club reviews):
Bar & Restaurant guide
(please note, The Exile may be offensive to some - but they do
have a good bar & restaurant guide!)
Fridays)
You can pick them up - for free- at English bookstores and restaurants,
also at Patio Pizza beside the Intourist on Tverskaya.
general, try Russia
Today's index of links
you might want to pick up the excellent transit guide called "Transportnii
Atlas Moskvi"
trolley, bus and metro route and stops in the whole city. You
can get it for about $1.50 from book kiosks, especially along
New Arbat.
When you can't wear your socks even one more time, head to what
is, apparently, the only do-it-yourself laundromat in Moscow.
(And if you hear of another one, let me know!)
unmarked white door. One load costs about $1.50 and it includes
soap and use of the centrifuge, the dryer and the presser.
- you'll come out smelling like a chemical factory with red eyes
and a scratchy throat to match!
11 ylitsa Vavilova
7:00 to 22:00 Monday to Saturday
Tram #39 from M Lenninsky Prospekt or M. Universitet
If you've finished reading War and Peace and are tired of lugging
it around, head over to Shakespeare & Company.
to use on something else in the store. They've got a good selection
of used books in English, French and German, plus new books, including
lots on Russia.
books and drink coffee!
5/7 1-I Novokuznetzkaya Pereoluk
7 days a week
Nearest Metro: Tretyakovskaya or Paveletskaya
If McDonald's doesn't give you a thrill anymore, try one of the
new Great Canadian Bagels that have recently opened!
Tverskaya 27,
M Mayakovskaya Gruzinsky val 31,
M Belorusskaya
The prices I've mentioned are rough - everything always changes!
Although I've quoted US dollars, you have to pay in rubles at
the current exchange rate.
Planet's Russia and Rick Steve's Russia and the Baltics.
at my email. Or maybe
I'll see you around. I'm teaching English (and not learning very
much Russian) here.
boots. Hard to replace when all the styles are three-inch high
heels!
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