Redwoods National Park, California – June 1999

I came to Redwoods N.P. for the first time about 2 years ago. When people

asked me to describe it to them, it was one of the few places for which I

just couldn’t find words.

The easy thing to say about the Redwoods is:

“There’s big trees…. I mean really big trees… no, look: these are

REALLY BIG TREES!” That, however, just doesn’t convey the majesty of the

place.

Sure the redwoods are big – the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 6th tallest known

trees are in the park – but there’s a lot more to the place than just the

trees. There’s long, beautiful, sandy beaches, deep forests and jungles of

great variety, towering overlooks, bubbling brooks, and – this keeps coming

back – REALLY BIG TREES!

The Redwoods N.P. (RNP) is really an amalgamation of several state and national

parks with loosely coordinated administration. They all seem to talk to

each other, but each smaller unit issues its own permits for camping and

other day uses. So be ready to deal with a little bureaucracy when

getting things set up. All in all, I found the staff and rangers very

friendly and helpful.

When visiting RNP, it is the kind of place that makes you think you can

just drive through it in one day and see it all. Don’t Be Fooled! While

most of the hikes in the Park are short and near the road, there are some

really nice longer ones and a couple of good overnighters.

When you come to RNP, especially if it’s during the winter, be ready for

rain and fog. Rain is a drag sometimes, but embrace the fog. It makes

everything just a little more mystical. Just imagine: huge groves of 1500

year old trees reaching high into the heavens with majesty and power

shrouded in a fine mist… Wow!

When I was there, the forests were just coming into bloom. Rhododendrons

were beginning their pink explosions and redwood sorrel — a clover-like

plant that is everywhere — was sporting lovely small white flowers. In

the coming month, the flowers should be spectacular.

Weather was misty in the mornings and at night, with some sun in the

afternooons, especially at higher elevations. I was told this is typical

spring/summer weather.

PLACES TO SEE

FERN CANYON: access via Davidson Rd., or the James Irvine Trail.

When I first came to the Redwoods, I hiked in and camped on the Miner’s

Ridge trail. The next morning, I cut across to the James Irvine Trail and

down to the Coastal Trail through Fern Canyon.

This little canyon (stretching less than a mile) was one of the most

incredible things I’d ever seen! 80 to 100ft sheer wall on either side

just dripping with ferns, moss, and water as tendrils of sunlight filtered

in through the Redwoods above. When I came back this time, I went back

just to see if it was everything I remembered. It was.

A word to the wise: if you’re going into Fern Canyon, be ready to get your

feet wet. Especially early in the season when the water is still high. I

heard rumors of foot bridges going in, but as of now there aren’t any.

BIG TREE: it’s just that – a Big Tree.

Just off the Newton B. Drury

Scenic Parkway, it’s about a 20 yard hike to the tree from the parking

area.

While this is a rather large specimen, it is not uncommon to see trees

that size or larger back on the trails. There are a couple of loops

starting at Big Tree ranging from just a mile or two, up to eight or ten miles

depending on how you put them together. Take some time to try one out!

LADY BIRD JOHNSON INTERPRETIVE TRAIL: About a one mile loop located off

the Bald Hills Road near Orick.

This is a very easy hike over mostly flat terrain. Instead of boots, I

wore my Birkenstocks for it and I think you could even do it in *Gasp*

sneakers…. It goes through a wonderful area though and is well worth the

time, especially if you have kids with you.

TALL TREES: access through C-Line Rd.

Access to the Tall Trees grove is limited to 35 vehicles per day. Permits

are free at the Information Center in Orick. It isn’t running yet, but I

hear there is a shuttle that runs during the peak season.

The Tall Trees grove is home to the 1st, 3rd, and 6th tallest trees in the

world. The basic trip is about four miles total over moderately steep

terrain. You can go further, but it requires fording a fairly wide and

deep Redwood Creek. Later in the summer a footbridge will be built to span

the creek.

This grove is one of exceptional beauty and diversity and

should be a must see for anyone capable of doing the hike. There is

overnight camping available along the Emerald Ridge Trail on the gravel of

Redwood Creek which is near the grove.

While in most backcountry campsites fires are prohibited, they are allowed

on the creek bed (conditions permitting).

MINER’S RIDGE – PRAIRIE CREEK LOOP: begins at Prairie Creek Visitor Center

off the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway.

Easy to moderate overnighter which passes through many different Redwood

groves. A good place to go if you have a couple of days.

PLACES NOT TO GO

HORSE TRAILS IN SOUTH END OF PARK

Apparently, there was a park superintendent about five years ago who

was really into horses. Logically then, so was everyone else.

He built these trails and they never came. From studying the map, they

look like some nice loops, but I was discouraged by rangers from going

there. They said the trails were poorly maintained, hard to find, and

sometimes impassable.

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