London, England – July 1999

By Stacy Ashworth   |   July 1st, 1999   |   Comments (0)
Traveler Article

After a recent trip to Paris, and in honour of my Canadian friend Glen’s recent Toronto article, I have decided to compare my adoptive city of London to Paris. Besides, it’s always fun to assess of status of an age old rivalry.

Eurostar

Departure:

While the Eurostar terminal in London makes you feel as though you’re about to embark on a journey around the solar system, the Gard du Nord station in Paris doesn’t make anyone feel very special.

The Journey:

It takes twice as long to go half as far on the UK side of the tunnel.

Arrival:

Paris is clearly better. Having thoroughly latched on to the EU idea, there is no passport control (which does have it’s drawbacks as I like to collect passport stamps). The UK, on the other hand, makes travellers go through the normal passport procedures. This involves me, a resident, standing in line with bus loads of Japanese and American tourists, with my completed entrance card in hand as Italian and French tourists whiz past me in the EU express lane.

Transportation

Subway

What can I say. Although London has the most extensive subway system in the world, the underground sucks. No one questioned why I was late for my first day of work, they just rightfully assumed I was in a tube delay. To make matters worse, there is no air conditioning, no ventilation, and an awful lot of people – not a good combination in long delays. On the other hand, the Paris underground is extensive, seems efficient, and the seats are the utmost in orthopedic design. An added bonus: large open windows make for excellent ventilation.

Taxis

I waited in a taxi line for over ½ hour at the Eiffel Tower. The line wasn’t even particularly long, it’s just that no cab’s came. Â…Later that day, we again tried to get a cab, and again none were in sight. I ended up walking for over an hour in my slinky heels and evening gown. However, when you do manage to get a cab they are very cheap, but only take up to three people. By contrast, London cabs are expensive but always there when you need one. The Black Cabs are spacious and offer room for five. They are such a cool ride that every visitor must take at least once.

Gypsy’s

I think the fact that gypsy’s really do exist is a little shocking to most North Americans. I had always assumed they disappeared with the horse and carriage, but they are alive and well in Europe today. London gypsy’s are really boring. Rarely do you see any attempt at sharing a talent, they instead opt for strapping a baby with a scarf round the adult women, when they make their best attempt at looking really really sad. They should learn from their Parisian cousins, who generally employ musical instruments in an effort to get your spare change. My particular favorite was a boy in a Mighty Ducks (hockey team) jersey unenthusiastically shaking a tambourine while his father turned the handle on a bugs-bunny music box.

Eating Out

McDonald’s

McChicken Korma in London vs. beer with your Big Mac in Paris. No contest.

Restaurants

I’m not even going to go there.

Shopping

Fashion:

Equal for women, slight edge to London for men (it was the Arrow shirts that were way, way overpriced and displayed as something special in a posh Parisian shop that decided it).

Service:

Big advantage Paris. Not only do they acknowledge your existence on this planet when you walk in the shop, they actually even try to help you buy something.

Venue:

Big advantage London. Regent Street, Covent Garden, Harrods, Selfridges, and numerous markets blow the Champs Elysees out of the water.

Verdict: About equal

Parks

London is definitely the greener city. Not only does it have more and bigger parks in the city centre, it has countless green squares and trees lined streets. The two main central parks, Regents and Hyde, are so enormous it’s possible to get lost in them and forget you’re in a city. They also both have beautiful English rose gardens. Paris does have a fair amount of greenery at it’s centre, but it always seems possible to see a road.

The Morbid

Henry VIII chopping block versus the Catacombs:

Although it’s always fun to place your head where Anne Boleyn had hers chopped off, with the exception of Tom Jones live in Las Vegas, the catacombs are the coolest thing I have ever seen. Millions of bones decoratively stacked to form skull hearts, skull crosses, and various other patterns of skull art. My own personal highlight was seeing that a worker has economically used a skull as a holder for spare light bulbs.

Churches and Cathedrals

Westminster Abbey vs. Notre Dame, St Paul’s vs. Sacre Coeur:

The London churches win in a crushing defeat of their mythical Parisian counterparts. And this is even considering the entrance fees to the London churches. In both Parisian landmarks, visitors moo and bah their way around the tourist loop looking at what are mainly barren walls. By contrast, Westminster is steeped in history, and little can compare to the sheer beauty of St Paul’s.

Museums/Galleries

I think it must be a tie. I can’t really say. I’ve never been in one of the big Parisian museums. They’re costly, and more to the point, have long entrance lines. However, I’ll assume (on a hunch) the quality is high. London also has several high quality museums and galleries, and most are free – a definite point winner.

Landmarks – head to head

Big Ben vs. The Eiffel Tower

Both are tall landmarks, both are lit up at night. You can go up the Eiffel Tower; Big Ben actually has the purpose of telling time. Big Ben is attached to the ultra cool and famous British Parliament buildings, whereas the Eiffel Tower has an ultra ugly millennium countdown clock on it. Tie.

Trafalgar Square vs. Place de la Concorde (submatch: Nelson’s Column vs. the Egyptian Obelisk)

Nelson’s column wins due to the giant lions at its base. It also features handy maps to point out the famous buildings. Place de la Concorde is too exhaust filled, making it impossible to enjoy to view down the Champs Elysee to the Arc de Triomphe as you choke on car fumes. Trafalgar Square also has places to sit down. Winner is Trafalgar Square.

Buckingham Palace vs. The Louvre (building)

Hands down, the Louvre wins. Buckingham Palace is about as exciting as my old university dormitory.

Arc de Triomphe vs. ???

London has countless arches, but none come close to the size and positioning of the Arc de Triomphe. Still, there is something to be said for a semi-big arch appearing round corners vs. one big mother arch. Regardless, the Arc de Triomphe, the mother of all arches, wins – with special bonus points for the car rally at its base, I swear it’s more exciting and heated than the Indy 500.

Tower Bridge vs That Bridge In Front of Hotel des Invalides

Sure, that bridge in front of the Hotel des Invalides is really pretty, and makes for great photo opportunities, but Tower Bridge is “fantastique”. A functioning drawbridge, this example of Victorian ingenuity is not only an excellent photo opt, it’s most impressive. Winner is Tower Bridge.

Trafalgar Square

Trafalgar Square

General Info on London

London’s huge. It’s also crowded and buzzing with an energy all

it’s own. With the exception of wildlife you can find everything

you’ve ever dreamt of – for a price. When coming here the number

one thing you can count on is that you’re not going to be bored.

The number two thing is that you’re going to spend a lot more

money than you planned (even considering most museums & galleries

are free).

Guide Book Update

I know many guide books are highly recommending the Museum of

Mankind just off Bond Street, and I trudged 1/2 hour to see this

wondrous collection only to find out that it’s closed. It is currently

being relocated to the British Museum and will not be on display

for a few years – probably just in time for the next guidebook

update!

Recommended Readings

Edward Rutherford’s “London.” Okay okay, it’s a long book, but

if you have a long plane ride the payoff is excellent. There’s

so much more to be had from the city when you can walk around

and understand how the things you’re seeing got there.

Getting Around

I know all guidebooks will tell you to take black cabs, and they

are pretty cool but also pretty expensive. You can get much cheaper

travel by finding a minicab, with whom you can negotiate the price

upfront. They are really easy to find at night, they hang around

outside of night clubs and other attractions, and they’re listed

in the phone book if you want to get one from your hotel.

Where to Find Info

The what’s on bible for most Londoners is “Time Out” which is

widely available and comes out weekly for 1.80.

They also have

a good website. Every

Thursday the very similar (though not as comprehensive) guide

“Hot Tickets” comes

free with the 35p Evening Standard – which is sold on all street

corners.

Traveler Article


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