San Martin de los Andes
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Well, Winter has finally arrived with a vengeance to Central Patagonia, and San Martin de los Andes. In between some torrential rainfalls over the last 6 days , we have managed to accumulate some great snow. While it does seem strange to be talking about winter in the month of June, you must remember we are referring to life in the SOUTHERN hemisphere.
I could bore you with lots of historical and cultural information about my new hometown, but let´s cut to the chase and cover in full, the matter at hand this month here in San Martin de los Andes……….SKI SEASON !!!!!!!!!
San Martin is home to Cerro Chapelco Ski Resort, located just 18 km down the road. Chapelco is a full service, international ski destination, and is one the 4 major ski resorts in South America.
If you happen to be down in Argentina during the month of July, you would be sorely remise not to make your way to Patagonia for a little ski trip.
Prices to ski at Chapelco are as follows:
Equipment Rental: $25 a day for complete gear, either for Skiing or Snowboarding.
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If you are accustomed to skiing in the USA, Canada, or Europe, immediately you will notice something different if you ski Chapelco…….NO WAITING FOR THE LIFTS!!!!!!!!!!!
Caution: If possible, do try to avoid the Argentina Winter Vacation Period…of July 10-30. During this time, things will be crowded and travel and accommodations will be harder to come by and a little more expensive.
If you need more information….you can contact Chapelco Ski Resort by phone at 054-02972-429-601.
If you are interested in taking lessons for skiing or snowboarding instructors are available….for a small fee of course.
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Be sure to dress warmly (see the Kamikaze Snowboarder) to avoid frostbite. Patagonian winds are strong and cold and blow hard on top of the summits.
If you want to know about other ski spots in South America, I suggest the following web site: www.altapatagonia.com for more detailed information, etc.
Getting to San Martin de los Andes
By plane from Buenos Aires, you can fly to Chapelco airport, 25km from the ski resort, and from theretake a taxi into town ($35-40 ride).
Occasionally, the airports shut down due to snow here in the Andes. To avoid this problem,there is always the preferred Argentinian method of long distance travel….THE BUS !!!!!
My favorite company is Via Bariloche. One way ticket from Retiro Bus station in Buenos Aires to San Martin is $70, and you will travel in PLUSH comfort. Movies, food, free wine and drinks, (bathroom) and even a waiter to serve you!!!! Travel time is long , 20 hours or so, but is a great way to see the gorgeous winter landscape and SNOW covered Andes!!!!!
If Via Bariloche is booked up, try the following other tried and true reliable companies, TUS or TAC. You can all ahead by phone and check the availability before taking a taxi to Retiro Bus Station.
Another Hot Tip about bus travel:
There is NO limit on the size, weight, or number of pieces of luggage you bring. Air travel in Argentina is EXTREMELY strict on this matter and they WILL NOT allow more than 2 pieces of luggage, which is very difficult if you are traveling with your own ski equipment.
Hotels
Try the following Mid Range (3 stars) hotels
Tel. 427-690 Av. San Martin 1242
Tel. 428-125 Av. Roca & Belgrano
Tel. 427-232 Av. San Martin 851
If these hotels are full, contact the Office of Tourism in San Martin de los Andes at Tel: 427-347
Food & Drink
No shortage of restaurants here, everything from fast pizza joints to elegant wining and dining. If you are in the mood for pizza, fries, and a delicious local Quilmes or Isenbeck beer, try the following spots:
Dens, Peperone, or Lancuyen.
If you need a place for a hot Kahlua & Coffee, try Peuma Cafe or Abolongo. A good snack is always freshly made empanadas, stuffed with beef, olives, egg or ham and cheese. Or go for “picadas”, Argentina version of finger food style snacks, cheese, peanuts, olives, potato chips etc. Also be sure to buy and sample some of the hand made
chocolates from any of the local candy shops.
Remember, the best thing about skiing is at the end of the day you always need to rest those sore feet and legs!!!!!
Drink up, relax, and hope to see you on the slopes!!!!
GENERAL INFO SECTION
Quirky Fact
Patagonia
This word DOES NOT refer to that incredibly expensive brand of outdoor clothing made and sold by that old French guy living high on the hog in a California Beach mansion.
Linguistically speaking, the word: “Pa-ta-go-nia” refers to a coinage made by the explorer Ferdinando de Magallanes, and means, “Land of the big footed peoples”. It is thought that he was referring to the Tehuelche Indians of the region, that tended to be enormous in stature.
Language
Spanish is the native tongue here, but beware…this is not the same Spanish we learned in High School….or from the famous “501 Spanish Verbs” manifesto. This is Argentine Castellano, most like what is spoken in Spain. In all reality, there is NO such language called Spanish, this is merely a generic term.
Money
Pesos or US dollars (in use here since 1989), Visa, Mastercard, and Amex are accepted as well. Cigarettes have also been known to work as a local currency in the mountain refuges.
Getting Here
Almost all flights to Argentina run through Miami and end in Buenos Aires, so regardless of your final destination…plan on spending a few days in BA to enjoy all the hot spots it has to offer (more detail in our monthly accounts).
Transportation
Argentina means: BUSES! So be prepared for LONG journeys as you make your way from one tourist phenomena to another. Also, don’t forget to purchase a felt-tip marker to redraw the crack in your fanny to replace what you lost on these famous 20 hour plus rides.
Note: these buses, however, are in fact often much more luxuriant than flying business class on an airplane. Also, this is truly a great way to really SEE the country, town by town and get to know some of the local residents (and get the real scoop, not tourist agency B.S.).
Good Web Links:
If you are planning to travel to Argentina, visit Argentina’s tourist bureau,
For news in English try :
Or if you are lucky enough to speak Castellano:
A little about my BOOTS:
Argentina is a country famous for leathergoods, and notwithstanding are El Resero boots, with 80 years experience constructing these hand made specimens. These boots are so good, that not even the Argentine Special Forces have them.. In fact, I even received compliments (and envy) from the Army Mountain Regiment soldiers, who also do not have them.
Most owners claim to get more 20 years usage from them. (Think of the savings $$$ !!!) Although up front, your initial outlay is $220.00.
A little about us
Me (Erin Wood)
I was born into an American military family, and as a young Air Force brat I developed an insatiable lust for travel. One day last November, after being laid off from my incredibly crazed job in the semiconductor industry, I bought a plane ticket to vacation for a month in Argentina.
Around my 3rd day, I decided that 13 years living in Los Angeles was more than sufficient, and I chucked my business suits, briefcase and pantyhose and decided not to return to the US of A.
This decision infuriated my family, so I was sure that I had made another great decision.
Now I live in San Martin de los Andes, a small town of less than 30,000 people, located in Patagonia, in the Neuquen province here in Argentina. And yes, of course I live in the Andes!!! Luckily, I am not a “Gringa” alone, and now cohabitate with my even more fascinating Buenos Aires born, Argentinian mountain “mule” Alejo………
Alejo recently returned from living in what he calls “The First World”, which in his case was Canada, only to fall in love with Patagonia and decide to live back here in his homeland.
His Boots: the tough and durable Caterpillar by Wolverine..the “Montana” model
Anyhow, we both made our escape from the big city and we are living in peace and tranquility, under blue skies, underneath an old expired Mesazoic age glaciar moraine, about 50 km from Volcano Lanin.
If you planning to travel to Patagonia, feel free to drop us an
email or come spend the night in our home; we have a killer view and 5 bedrooms!!!!!
