Puerto Vallarta, Mexico – Summer 1999
The rains are here. Actually, we had one of wettest Junes in memory, all thanks to ‘La Niña’. But it was nicer than last year.
Usually in June, the humidity soars and the thunderheads build up and then… nothing – a hot sticky
night. Then, after stuttering a few times, it will settle down to sunny days, cloud buildup in the afternoon and then a couple of hours rain in the early evening.
This year of La Niña it started right up in June with no hesitation, but did not rain only for a couple of hours, one time for 16 hours. So, the moment I wrote that it stopped raining and hasn’t now for four days! Go figure!
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But, Boy!, are the mountains GREEN! Every shade you could imagine. I’ve even got pieces of scrap wood on my patio
that have come alive. The Rio Cuale, in the middle of town is churning over the boulders and the local kids have their inner tubes out.
This time of year is also mango season. I’ve never counted the varieties, but there must be at least a dozen or more,
some are selling right now for 2 pesos a kilo! By the way, if you have a car, do not park under a fully loaded mango
tree!
New Restaurant in Town
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There’s a new restaurant-bar in town, all the way from Havana, Cuba. ‘La Bodeguita del Medio’ was the favorite
watering hole of ‘Papa’ Hemingway and we now have a branch here. The food is Cuban, the live music is by Cuban groups and the classic drink ‘Mojito’ was what ‘Papa’ drank. They also sell authentic Cuban Cigars.
‘El Patron’ Alejandro can guide you through the world of cigar appreciation.
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For you energetic types there are many challenges. Trips into the jungle by Hiking, Mountainbike or Horseback, or out
into the bay by Sea Kayak, Sailboat and Scuba-Snorkle Trips. Work up that sweat and then come back to town
and have some excellent, cold Mexican beer.
CHEERS!
History
After the World War II, several G.I.s moved down to Vallarta, perhaps to recover from the affects of that engagement. Some set up businesses and some just retired, many to the north bank of the Rio Cuale which came to be
known as ‘Gringo Gulch’. Even before John Huston put Vallarta on the map with “The Night of the Iguana”, it was a
hideaway for the rich and notorious, who may have been driven from Acapulco by that resort’s popularity
with the masses.
Climate Year Round
The climate in the high season November-May – is warm 80 to 85°F, 27° to 29°C. After April and until about June
or July it will become increasingly warmer, to about 90°F or 32°C, and more humid.
Around June the rains begin, if you like drama this is for you. In the rainy season the humidity will increase during
the day until the rain comes, usually in the late afternoon, which at once reduces the humidity and leaves a
pleasant evening. But this is weather, so nothing is certain. Rainy season June – October.
Water
SEAPAL (Local Water Board) have consistently exceeded World Health Organization criteria for drinking water.
But, if you’re really worried, plenty of your favorite bottled water is available.
Geography
Located on one of the largest bays in the world, Vallarta benefits from protection from hurricanes and large waves, although good surfing can be had at the northern part of the bay.
There are many large American style hotels here, not in town thank goodness. Since there is a height restriction for building in town, the older,cheaper ones are here. Anywhere from $15 – $60 US per night.
Transport
Bus
2.5 Pesos to almost everywhere, unless you go way out of town.
Example:
El Centro(the center of town) to Boca de Tomatlan (about 6 miles south) 5 Pesos. No longer do you share your ride with live chickens, at least I haven’t seen any lately. But you may have live entertainment, all for 2.5 Pesos!
Taxi
(by area-zone) local zone 15 Pesos , outside local area 22 – 42 Pesos. Before entering the taxi, ask the driver
what the fare will be to your destination. Tips are not required, unless you feel it is warranted. Tips from
drivers on where to eat etc. are not necessarily reliable (they will be getting a kickback).
Airport Taxi
These special taxis are only allowed to service from the Airport to Hotels and Condos, more expensive than regular ones. 80.00 – 200 Pesos depending how far. Ask first.
Money
The Peso is about 9.30 to the US dollar as of July.
The Casa de Cambios will give you less than the bank but also less lines. The best way is to use your ATM card, plenty of locations.
Cheap Eats/Dining Out
See ‘Vallarta-info-Prices‘
Pubs and Clubs
See ‘Vallarta-info-Prices‘
Arts Scene
Many Galleries in town with very well known artists. Many openings with music & free cocktails. See my ‘Happenings‘ page, only runs during the season.
The Outdoors
There is so much to do I again refer to my ‘Excursions‘ page.
Sunday Evening
After sundown on Sunday families, groups of boys and separate groups of girls, dressed in their best, will promenade
up and down the Malecon (sea front walk), the groups of young people will be making eyes at each other as they pass.
There will be vendors selling anything from ‘roasted corn on the cob’ to ‘brightly coloured windmills’ and balloons.
Street Kids
You are certain to be accosted by young children selling ‘chiclets’ and other things, some can be pretty pushy as well. Nearly all of these kids are being exploited by their parents or other other adults nearby. We have, in Vallarta, support programs for these children in need. Please help by not giving them money or buying things from them, you will be helping them to stay off the streets and away from exploitation.
I was born and raised in London, England and went to the USA when I was 26. I have worked in so many
different occupations I can’t list them all. Photographer, Jeweler, Video Editor and Boat Captain are
a few. I have been visiting and living here in Vallarta for over 20 years and will not make the mistake of
leaving again.
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