Peru – Part Quatro (4)

By: Jeffrey Berk

Puno, Peru.

August 28, 1999.

Hard to believe that the trip is halfway over. Feels as if we have been in South America for a month. Let me see, where did we last leave off…

The night bus to Bolivia was not too bad. Comfortable bus that was only

halfway full. Steph and I were able to stretch out as best we could on a bus seat. We slept on and off for the next 8 hours. We awoke to see the sun rising over Lake Titicaca.

Customs into Bolivia was straightforward and easy. No questions asked. Just a welcoming smile and passport stamp. We arrived in Copacabana where Steph immediately felt the need to have a meltdown. Hungry and tired, she “suggested” that we find the nearest hotel to get a few hours sleep before our boat trip to Isla Del Sol. We made arrangements for an afternoon boat to the sacred Incan island and then went to sleep for a few hours at Las Brisas Hotel opposite the boatyard in Copacabana. Don’t stay at Las Brisas. Overpriced and not very nice!

A quick lunch and look around town, and then onto a small boat filled with Swiss, Germans and Brits. About 15 of us spent the next 90 minutes under gorgeous blue skies amid clean sparkling seas and beautiful snow covered Bolivian mountains. A very dramatic landscape. Once on the island shore, a 30 minute hike (almost vertical) to the small town of Estancia Yumani. Only 3 or 4 small hostels on the island. (All but one without electricity.) We were exhausted, so another nap and then a hike to the top of the island to watch the gorgeous sunset over Lake Titicaca.

Dinner overlooking the lake and sunset feasting on Lake trout and quinnoa soup. All for $2 each. Bolivia is incredibly cheap compared to Peru. Our hotel room, which was the fanciest in the town, was $2.50. Can’t remember the name of the place but it was the newest place Â– built about 4 or 5 years ago according to the VERY NICE owners. Great place!

Very exciting night. Turns out that August 26 was a FULL MOON. And where better to spend it than on an island in the middle of Lake Titicaca. Isla Del Sol was the most sacred site of the Incans. There are over 70 ruins on this tiny little island.

There was a party at the only hotel with electricity. They called it a “Techno Party” but for some reason they played Santana and Jimmy Hendrix out of a boombox. A bit strange. Steph and I just watched as we sipped our hot chocolates. The moon lit our path home as we stupidly forgot our flashlights.

Up the next morning early and a quick breakfast before heading off on a 4 hour hike to the North of the island. A breathtaking adventure. Not a soul in sight for 4 hours. Except for a man who we met halfway along who was selling water and cookies out of a little hut in the middle of nowhere. Now begins the fun. As our stomachs begin to rumble…

It appears as if Jeff has gotten a stomach bug. Not bad. Just need to

re-adjust. Make a few more stops. Gorgeous scenery of rocky canyons and isolated rocky ruins. Finally we arrived at the sacred sites of the Incans at the North of the Island. Where did all these other tourists come from? Suddenly we are surrounded by a group of tourists who had been dropped at the North of the Island. We had to hurry to catch our afternoon boat. We made it and collapsed at a small cafe at Challa pampa. A quick Sprite and onto the boat.

With 10 other folks we head to Isla de la Luna, a small neighboring island with another Incan temple. Not much there and a short time later we are back on Isla del Sol. We have lunch and then board the boat back to Copacabana. Pick up our laundry and backpacks and catch a minibus back to the border.

The 2 hour bus ride to Puno was a bit uncomfortable but not unbearable. In Puno, on a Friday night, the city was bustling with people and outdoor markets as if it were the middle of the day. We quickly found a very nice (by Peruvian standards) hotel. The Hotel Italia. Jeff was feeling quite ill at this point but was still well enough to negotiate a better price at the hotel.

You don’t need to stay here. We were sick and needed a nice place with cable television. Room was $35 for a double which is a lot more than we

usually pay for a room. Steph administered care and loving attention to him as he lay in bed groaning like a sissyboy. Jeff slowly headed off to sleep, listening to the sounds of cable television. Steph took advantage of being a “free” lady and hit the town. Actually a quick trip to the store for a Sprite and some aspirin for Jeff. But not before a lustful young Peruvian grabbed her rear. HOLA. Steph truly felt very different walking alone as a woman than when walking with her macho husband. Catcalls and jeers notwithstanding, she made it back to the hotel and cable television in one piece.

This morning, Jeff is 90 percent and by noon we are able to leave the hotel to explore the city. Stops at the post office and optician to fix Steph’s sunglasses. Then to the market to buy some fruit and finally to catch a boat to the famous Uros floating islands.

Yes, the required stop all tourists make in Peru. The Uros are islands that are constructed out of reeds and which float. The islanders subsist on selling trinkets and alpaca sweaters. A bit depressing and awkward we felt.

Highlight of the day was seeing a wedding party taking place on one of the islands. Steph was bold enough to take a photo of the bride and groom. One of the wedding guests then asked for a tip. Jeff gave the man 10 soles ($3) at which point the man asked that I give it directly to the groom. People stopped what they were doing and all gathered around to behold the large bill. The bride and groom both gave us

huge appreciative handshake. Soon, the wedding party is all gathered around the 10 sol bill.

Made us feel like stupid rich American tourists. Jeff also gave out stamps as gifts to all the children on the island. Turned out to be a big hit as all the children licked the stamps and stuck them on their arms. Stamps are always a great gift to bring. Better than candy or gum.

This afternoon we relaxed with cable TV before heading out to explore Puno on a Saturday night. Wanted to see a movie but Jeff had already seen Small Soldiers. Internet cafes are all over the place here in Puno so here we are again. Sitting in a room with 30 other computer stations. Unbelievable. The Peruvians all have email addresses. Cost is only $1. The Internet is truly changing the world.

Also, thanks also to Escape Magazine. I won their monthly contest and they emailed me to tell me that I had won. A Timex watch. Not bad. Stomachs still a bit unsettled. But feeling good overall. Off to Arequipa tomorrow by plane. Hope to meet up later with folks I have been corresponding with over the last few months in Cuzco.