England Through My Eyes #12

September 3, 1999

Some guidebooks called York Minster a medieval cathedral, some called it Gothic. It got me confused because architecturally, it’s largely Gothic. I asked a staff member from the English Heritage and she explained that both are quite correct: York Minster is built during the medieval times in Gothic style.

To give an idea how huge this structure is, its East Window, the world’s largest medieval stained glass, is of the size of a tennis court! Paul had never seen the cathedral without any scaffoldings, it’s so huge that perhaps by the time they finish cleaning and restoring, they have to start all over again. Though it’s a dominating landmark of York, guess where can you get

the best complete view of it? I followed the tip by my B&B host, Tony. It’s from a 4th floor window, at the gents department of Marks & Spencers! There is even a framed picture of the York Minster taken from this strategic spot.

There is often a line outside Jorvik, a centre for a taste of the York’s Viking past. Through a ‘joy ride’, you get to see how a Viking village looks like, based on findings from an excavation site nearby. You get to see fibre glass figures, mock-up village scene, even smell the scent of those days (this formulated smell was a big thing when the centre just opened years ago, but I don’t see what the big deal is). For your information, Kit Kat (yes, the take-a-break chocolate) originates from York. The factory is still running and there is even an area dedicated to the history of chocolate at the Castle Museum (the smell of chocolate was definitely better than those smells at Jorvik).

I joined a free walking tour given by the volunteers in the afternoon. 200 volunteers rotate among themselves to give 2 tours per day. All do so simply out of love of this city, which is so steeped in history. Our guide had to pop lozenges now and then to soothe her throat; it was hot day. And I don’t think it’s easier to conduct the tour in winter either. She requested us please not to embarrass her by giving tips at the end of the tour. If she didn’t tell us from the outset, we would be tempted to as she was really good.

One can see the remains of walls dated from the Medieval, Norman and Roman times at the Museum Garden. Most fascinating are the excavated Roman stone coffins. They are so small that could easily be mistaken to be for the toddlers. Well, the Romans dug out the remains after the corpse was adequately ‘reduced’ and transferred it to these smaller coffins! Trust the Romans to extend their efficiency even to burial area management.

York is famous for its ghost stories. Especially the one of the Roman soldiers marching at the back of the Treasurer’s House. One night, an apprentice plumber saw ghosts of Roman soldiers marching through the wall,

on their knees! Everyone was skeptical but his description of the soldiers right down to their armoury details was so close to the historian’s knowledge that it was not possible for an apprentice to know so much.

Later, an excavation discovered a Roman road underneath the room. So, the ghosts actually marched on this ancient road but to the apprentice, it looked as if they were marching on their knees. By the way, this man still lives today.

The Shambles is York cutest street. It’s very narrow, the little houses seem to tilt forward and may tumble any minute. The guide told us that all these were by design because The Shambles used to be a butcher street. The tilt of the houses and narrowness of the street minimise sunlight on the meat, thus prolonging its shelf life. The butchers are gone but you can still see the hooks in front of the shop windows.

September 4, 1999

I went to Robin Hood Bay and Whitby the next day as a day trip. Though I only spent one day in York city, it felt so refreshing to be in the countryside again. I liked Robin Hood Bay better as it has a tiny village (it’s a very steep village) atmosphere and the view of the bay and its headlands was just beautiful.

Whitby is a busy fishing town, with many many seagulls. So many that I could not help but wonder how come they never collide with each other while gliding!

Other than Captain Cook (his hometown) and the Abbey, Whitby is also famous for its fish and chips, especially those from Magpie Cafe. It’s easy to find the restaurant (you can’t miss the long queue outside). I shared a table with an old couple. The 73yo old man used to be a navy officer and he was in Singapore back in 1947! It was a 2-week stay before he left for a 45-day journey to Vancouver. He still remembers the godowns at Singapore River and the rickshaws. They now lead an enviable retired life with plenty of travels.

September 6, 1999

It was like a day of farewell with friends when I returned to London, having lunch and dinner with them instead of touring the city. Oh, went back to the National Gallery too to have another look at my favourite paintings. I made a last minute decision to visit Cambridge, seems like I couldn’t wait to get out of London. Didn’t try punting (was not dressed to fall into the river, which is a high possibility for novice).

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