From Baltic to the Black Sea #9

Chisinau, Republic of Moldova
8 September 1999

Buna!

(Hello in Romanian – officially known as Moldovan Language in Moldova)

I am now in Chisinau, capital of Moldova, which became independent after the collapse of the USSR. After a great day in Odessa and 3 hours of sleep (I met up with my Odessan friend, Tanya, her partner and five year old son for dinner and that lasted till midnight), I flew to Chisinau (formerly known as Kishinev) on a very early flight. As usual in ex-USSR states, the departure from Ukraine was a mini-adventure by itself. I had to convince the customs my ancient-looking souvenir (some bells one hang up on the windows) was not an antique. Upon arrival in Chisinau, the consul at the airport determined that my letter of invitation was fake and decide whether to deport me – that took another hour. Anyway, here I am, safe and sound.

Moldova – this is one of the three Romanian lands – the other two being Translyvania and Walachia. Two hundred years ago, the Russians occupied the eastern half of Moldova and since then this eastern half (to be referred as Moldova in this email) has a different destiny from the other parts of Romania. After WWI, Moldova was reunited with Romania but was torn away by the USSR as a result of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact (like the Baltic republics) with Germany. Stalin declared Moldova as the Soviet Socialist Republic of Moldavia, and that the people here are not Romanians, but a separate semi-Slavic race called the Moldavians. He forced the Moldovans to write their language in the Russian Cyrillic alphabet and adopt many Russian words in the language.

This lasted till 1991, when the USSR collapsed. The Latin alphabet was readopted and there was talk of reunification with Romania. Immediately, rebellions broke out in the regions of Transdnestria (where many Russians and Ukrainians live) and Gagauzia (where a Christian Turkish tribe live). Transdnestria remains separate today, with a ceasefire in effect, but Gagauzia has chosen to reintegrate with Moldova as an autonomous republic. Today, I will take a bus into Transdnestria and from there to Gagauzia, where I will spend a night at the home of a Gagauz friend I knew on the ‘net, Dimitriy. This, especially a foray into the ceasefire zone of Transdnestria, will be a mini-adventure. I met a Danish journalist who was there a few days ago and he says it’s very easy to enter Transdnestria these days – take an hourly bus – normality had resumed a few years ago.

Moldova is a beautiful country and friendly people. Not surprising. After all, they are Romanians – a Latin people similar to Italians and Spanish – lots of laughter and fun. I went on day trips to Cricova – Moldova’s famous wine cellars (50 km long!) and gotten myself 2 bottles of Moldova Champagne and wines. They claim that Queen Elizabeth II takes Moldovan wine for breakfast everyday, but I told them I can’t find Moldovan wines in Tesco and Sainsbury supermarkets. Anyway, at the cellar tour (compulsory – the only way to visit Moldova’s top tourist attraction), I tasted 8 types of wines – you can imagine the after-effects…

In any case, I could still go on a tour of Old Oehri after the wine tour. You see, I don’t normally buy tours, but to get the visa, I booked two nights of accommodation at the National Hotel Chisinau but later decided to cancel one night (because of the Gagauz invitation today). Moldovan laws does not allow the travel agency to refund me the money (US$40) without filling a hundred and one forms to certify that I am not involved in Bank-of-NY-type money laundering, gun-running and mafia activities, raping, robbing, etc. Hence, I chose to exchange the refund with a tour to Moldova’s famous historical site instead.

Old Orhei was an interesting monastery located on a cliff-face in a strange rocky valley. Ancient icons and ruins dotted the monasterial site. The village next door was a journey into 18th century Moldova – little machinery is seen. Donkey carts, old ladies in traditional dress, and farm animals running about etc. Very picturesque – I snapped one Kodak 36 roll of pix there – twice or thrice my normal rate. In short, I behaved like a Japanese tourist (no offense meant).

OK, have to go now. Wish me luck in Transdnestria.

Wee Cheng

http://travel.to/weecheng

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