Veracruz, Mexico – October 1999

By: Michael Strah

Sorry about not having updated you on Veracruz for quite some time. Things have been happening here (believe it or not) and some for the worse rather than the better!

Road Conditions

I had the opportunity to drive from Veracruz to Toronto, Ontario between July and August. The Mexican Coast Highway #180, which stretches from Cancun in the state of Quintana Roo (pronounced “row” like boat and not “roo” like kanga) all the way to Matamoros in the state of Tamaulipas, is truly in a horrible state. The condition of the road, particularly in the area of Tuxpan to Tampico, is very poor. Requires your eyes wide open and is very slow going. Now, this was before the recent rains that we have had and the corresponding flooding!

Latest reports have the Coast Highway #180 closed for many sections, both north and south of Veracruz, for about the past two weeks. Work is being done to re-open sections but it has not all been completed. Travellers can expect long detours and some delays. Temporary bridges are being installed in areas where the road has literally disappeared.

The Mexican Coast Highway #180 in the areas of Campeche and the Yucatan has recently been in better shape than in the states of Veracruz and Tamulipas and it has not really been affected by the rains.

These rains have taken their toll on surrounding rural areas with massive flooding and misery and about 400 dead. Some areas are still accessible only by boat or foot path. Villahermosa, Tabasco has felt the worst of this natural disaster with some parts of the city still under a meter of water. The highland areas of Puebla are still somewhat difficult to reach and most residents are walking 20 to 30 kilometers to gain access to the disaster relief supplies.

The evening newscasts have done a good job of documenting the misery while the Mexican Red Cross deserves special mention for helping to alleviate the misery. Meanwhile the government of Mexico initially refused foreign aid and it is anyone’s guess as to why that happened. Much heated debate and gnashing of teeth over that one!

The archeological zone of El Tajin (near Papantla) in Veracruz was also hit hard by the rains but the experts now checking the pyramids and such have reported no major damage. Good thing! El Tajin is a definite must see if you are in the state of Veracruz for any length of time. The latest information is that the roads to Papantla are open, but in rough shape.

The earthquake which shook Mexico a few weeks ago was felt very strongly here in Veracruz. If you are planning on travelling within the state of Oaxaca (the epicenter was along the coast of Oaxaca) be advised some rural routes in the coastal area still remain closed. The main toll highways are open.

Caveat

The information that I am passing along is valid as of today. It is very difficult to get up to date information on road situations (especially rural areas). I rely only upon documented footage from the TV news and reports from travellers that I meet in my daily meanderings.

I also try to pass along first hand reports from my travels to certain areas and reports from trusted friends living in the affected areas. When you are travelling the Coast Highway #180, accuracy counts for a lot! I have a love/hate relationship with that stretch of tarmac!

Movies

Veracruz has been the site of choice for numerous film makers. Romancing the Stone, Clear and Present Danger, Medicine Man, Romeo and Juliette (the version with Leonardo DiCaprio), Code Name: Dancer are just some of the films which have used location shooting here in the city of Veracruz and the rural areas as well.

Work was completed recently on the film (working title) “Before Sunrise”, with Al Pacino and Antonio Banderas. Didn’t see either actor but numerous locations were used in and around Veracruz and provided many people with a few days of work as “extras”.

Thank my lucky stars I wasn’t cast for the Cuban prison scene…Interesting to note that Veracruz was chosen as it has the “feel” of 1950’s Havana. I am passing along what was said in the local papers as I can honestly say I have never “felt” 1950’s Havana!

General Info on Veracruz

The Mexican port city of Veracruz lies at 19′12″N and 96′08″W (latitude and longitude for those retentive types who really want to know where in the world they are). It is smack dab in the heart of the Gulf of Mexico, and tropical in climate and attitude.

Life here is a real mixture….old and new, humble and “in your face”, laid back and “full on party time”. Take what you want and don’t pass judgement on the unknown or untried.

Veracruz operates on Central Time (a bit of an oxymoron as only the buses and planes really operate on time).

What am I talking about? Well, for starters, the siesta is still held in high regard here (and you may bow at its altar in a fetal position everyday after lunch).

Most small businesses and municipal offices will be closed between 2 and 5pm (or so) and sometimes a bank will run out of money and ask for depositors to come forward so you can make a withdrawal (don’t roll your eyes, it happens especially around the 15th and 30th of the month as this is the traditional pay day).

The prices will change in some stores when the owner hears your “Gringo Spanish” (this can actually lead to the honorable practice of haggling over the price and don’t knock it till you’ve tried it and don’t be afraid to give it a go).

The taxi driver will try to overcharge you when he sees your Birkenstocks. The local transit police will try to shake you down for the “mordida” the infamous bribe that fixes things.

DO NOT EVER CONFUSE THE LOCAL TRANSIT POLICE OR AUXILLIARY POLICE WITH THE MEXICAN HIGHWAY PATROL “FEDERALES” AS THIS IS A SERIOUS BREACH OF COOL AND CAN HAVE CONSEQUENCES YOU WILL TELL YOUR GRANDCHILDREN ABOUT.

By the way, I am an ex – patriot Canadian (northern Ontario, Toronto, Ottawa) who is married to a local lady named Alma (who is a mighty fine dentist and orthodontist thanks for asking).

I’ve been living and working here full-time for more than 5 years now. I first “experienced” Veracruz in 1978. (Time flies when you’re chasing lizards).

I am not an expert on Mexico or travel in general but I am an avid practitioner of common sense, and hope I can help you enjoy Veracruz from my humble and extremely subjective point of view

(that should take care of the critics and if not I have a Black Belt in the art of “Siesta”).

Links

Mexico Life