Adelaide, South Australia – November 1999

Adelaide-by-the-Sea

Adelaide’s western suburbs are confined by the sea with 30 kilometers of continuous sandy beach safe for swimming and boating, extending from North Haven to Seacliff. In this stretch are six jetties allowing offshore promenading and fishing e.g., at Largs Bay, Semaphore, Grange, Henley Beach, Glenelg and Brighton. There are 8 boat launching spots for recreational fishermen, several yacht clubs and marinas.

The visitor to downtown Adelaide can quickly get to a beach by heading for the Central Railway Station and taking the Metro, for the Noalunga line has convenient stations at Brighton and Seacliff and the Grange line goes to the north. In-between are buses but you will need the MetroGuide to study the routes.

A popular tourist attraction are the vintage trams (ca. 1929) that run from Victoria Square in the CBD to “historic Glenelg” the bustling beach resort. Less known by tourists are the smaller seaside villages both north and south.

I live at Seacliff and a suggested walking tour is as follows: from the Central Railway Station take a Noalunga train that stops at all stations from Brighton onwards and get off at Seacliff (expresses don’t stop). Walk south on Kauri Parade two blocks and turn right opposite Pine Ave and follow a pathway to the Kingston Park Cliff Face Conservation Area. Following south along Kingston Crescent provides magnificent views of Holdfast Bay especially at the Lookout Point marked by a precarious rock monument being a tribute to the Kaurna aborigines who once hunted in this area.

In the near distance is the Brighton jetty ending with its space-age telecommunication tower and controversial wind chimes whereas beyond are the high-rise hotel and apartment blocks of Glenelg, both places being possible returning points to the city for the enthusiastic walker.

Below on the beach in an idyllic spot is the Brighton Caravan Park and pleasant outdoor Caf� Caprese located next to the protected Tjilbruke freshwater spring. In summer the Brighton and Seacliff Yacht Club is a hive of activity making the beach and waters bustle with flapping sails, halyards and youthful bodies. Blue and white sails of the dinghys of various classes vie with each other around a set racing course.

A sandy beach has a magnetic attraction for me. Seashells, sponges, cuttlefish bones and the curious flotsam and jetsam must appeal to my primitive beachcombing instinct. I like to watch the dogs enjoying themselves on the beach taking their owners for a walk. Dogs really get excited – they furiously dig holes in the sand, sniff tails, chase balls and seagulls and race off prancing in the surf. Like their owners, they come in all shapes and sizes and will always stop for a pat and chat.

My local pub is the Seacliff Beach Hotel which has a happy hour (beer and vino $1 per glass) from 5.30 to 6.30pm on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday with delicious free finger food at 6pm. Friday and Saturday nights features live music. There is a gaming room and the restaurant provides good pub meals, plus special Sunday breakfasts for $4.

A two kilometer stroll brings you to Brighton’s jetty and the Esplanade Hotel, which has a popular restaurant and gaming room. Jetty Road, Brighton, is where the caf� society meets to gossip and show off bizarre fashions. Shade umbrellas and tables clutter the sidewalk.

Carol’s Caf� Etc has a Marilyn Monroe theme and offers fantastic breakfasts and lunches. Hortas also provide dinner to the accompaniment of jazz musicians. More upmarket is the Mediterranean cuisine of the Asteria Bistro. In-between are interesting antique, book, patchwork and recycled clothing shops. Follow Jetty Road to the railway line and so to the station and back to the city.

Local Fishing

Recreational fishing around Adelaide is very popular and almost entirely directed to the sea, with city fishermen taking the family boat by trailer to designated launching spots and heading off to favored reefs a few kilometers offshore. The beach and jetty angler are sometimes lucky to catch whiting, flathead and mullet.

To catch a trout in South Australia is a feat worthy of a gold medal because of a lack of suitable rivers. The easiest and cheapest way of getting a nice rainbow trout for dinner is to buy it at the Adelaide Central Market (about 1 lb size, fresh $9/kg, smoked $13/kg).

Alternatively, there is the Tooperang Rainbow Trout Farm at Mt Compass, an attractive family picnic spot having popular fish-out ponds providing 1 to 2 lb rainbow trout, costing you $10/kg. Fly-fishermen enamoured with a catch and release policy can try the spring-fed lakes at Rosebank Recreational Fishing Park, both spots being on the Fleurieu Peninsula less than an hour’s drive south of Adelaide.

P.S. Anglers always use pounds, instead of kilos, to visualize trout – they seem bigger that way!

Rumours of wild trout of unprecedented size (5 lbs?) enticed me recently to the Mid-North to fish the Broughton River, which springs to life near the village of Spalding, population 600.

A great place to stay is the Spalding Hotel run by friendly Trev and Jenny Grenfell. This is a community hotel, meaning it is owned and operated by local people in order to keep the town alive, so anglers, cyclists, tourists etc are encouraged to come and stay.

The farming countryside consists of wheat and barley in the broad valleys with sheep and cattle roaming the hills. Nearby are dolomite and slate quarries and old copper workings. The Broughton River has long, deep pools of clear brackish water interspersed with impenetrable stretches of reed beds and willows.

Anglers must first check in with Jeff Matters on whose farm runs the river (entrance to right of road bridge). The finer details of trout fishing will be explained, together with the vagaries of local, state and federal politics. You may be invited for coffee and to stay for a barbecue – why not leave fishing to the morrow!

There are some big fish in the river. I sighted 5 trout maybe up to 2 lb size. I tried drifting a nymph and small wet flies to no effect. On the bank I chatted with a school boy using 2 rods to float fish, offering a choice of worm and wet fly. He suggested that cheese and corn were good baits to fish at night. One day I shall return!

General Info Section

Seaside Accommodation

The Adelaide seaside resort suburb of Glenelg offers the full spectrum of accommodation to tourists. Backpackers will be happy at the Glenelg Beach Resort which occupies an historic 1878 building, centrally located. The high rise, five-star Grand Hotel nearby serves as a useful landmark to navigate homewards after a night on the town.

Next seaside suburb south is Brighton also having a popular Jetty Road leading to the sea and jetty with its space-age telecommunication tower. Esplanade Hotel provides accommodation. Serviced doubles are $55/night or a weekly budget rate of $220.

Caravan Parks right on the beach are Brighton Caravan Park, Marineland Holiday Village, West Beach and Adelaide Beachfront Caravan Parks. Details are contained in the “Caravan and Camping Guide” booklet available at the SA Travel Centre, corner of North Terrace and King William St.

The Brighton Caravan Park is actually at Seacliff and occupies a superb site next to the Brighton and Seacliff Yacht Club. They offer 3 types of cabin viz., budget, family and executive that have a main bedroom and up to 4 bunks extra. Cost for 2 persons per night starts at A$55, $80 and $95 respectively with reduced rates for each day you stay.

West Beach and Marineland Caravan Parks are close to Glenelg and the airport. All caravan parks offer campsites with use of facilities.

Money Today

One Aussie dollar = US 59 cents, but check the rate today.

Weather Forecast

Adelaide and nearby towns

Internet

At the Central Railway Station in the Station Arcade is the Women’s Information Center. It has many computers and offers a free Internet service for women. Nearest unisex Internet service is “Talking Cents” one block away at 53 Hindley St. Rate is $4.50 per half hour.

Mid North Accommodation

If you feel the urge to venture into the countryside by bus you need the StateGuide for country bus services available from the InfoCentre at the corner of King William and Currie Streets.

Backpackers note that Spalding is on the Mid North Passenger Services bus route with 3 buses per week. The Spalding Hotel has double rooms for A$25 and double en-suite $45, both with breakfast, also there is a camping area and dog kennel for your pooch.

This mid-north area has many delightful villages worth staying at a few days. Check the following town websites for accommodation, services and attractions:

Burra,

Jamestown,

Peterborough and

Clare.

The Author

You can visit Allano’s web site by clicking here.

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