Bhutan – December 1999

Country Description


Druk yul or the “Land of the Thunder Dragon” is as mystical as the name suggests. Commonly known as Bhutan, it is a fairy tale world of dreamy mountains, dancing rivulets, green meadows, quaint hamlets among blurry pines and wild flowers, mystic monasteries straddling deep chasm, fluttering prayer flags, mighty Dzongs (fortresses) and simple, easy going, ever smiling people.

Roughly the size of Switzerland (47,000 sq. kms), Bhutan rises sharply from the Gangetic plains up to the snow covered mountains that act as a natural boundary with Chinese Tibet. It is perhaps the last of the Shangri-La, practically unmarred by the dizzying advances of time.

A Brief History

During most of its early history Bhutan was divided into a number of independent principalities located in the major valleys. Buddhism was spread in this region in the seventh century. Afterwards, the religion became a major element for the unification of the country. The Mahayana sect of Buddhism was divided into two subsects – Kargyupa and Drukpa. In 1616 a Drukpa monk, Ngawang Namgyal, after a series of victories over the rival Kargyupa united the smaller provinces and a unified Bhutan came into being for the first time.

Namgyal introduced the duel system of Government – a spiritual head called ‘dharmaraja’ and a civil government called ‘devaraja’. After his death in 1651, regional warfare broke out again. At last in 1907, the then provincial head of Tongsa valley, Ugen Wangchuk defeated others and was declared the hereditary Druk Gyalpo or king. The duel system of government was abolished since then. The Je Khenpo or the head Lama looks after the religious affairs only.

In 1972 the fourth and present Druk Gyalpo, Jigme Singhe Wangchuk began his rule. Bhutan joined the UN in 1971 and has only opened its doors to the outside world in 1974.

Is a trip to Bhutan worth the expense?

You would probably agree with the policy of restricted tourism when you experience the simple serene life of the people, the clean, crisp, air filled with the sonorous chime of the lamas (Buddhist monks) and the natural splendour. It may interest you that Bhutan is the only Buddhist kingdom in the world following the tantric strain of Mahayana Buddhism.

Into the Idyllic Haven

The plane soft-lands at the valley of Paro. Located in Western Bhutan, Paro is one of the most scenic places in Bhutan. The Paro Chu (Chu means river) dances gaily through the valley and the Mount Chomolhari with its snow covered peak offers an imposing background to this enchanting valley. We got the first taste of its traditional heritage when we saw the people, men, women and children all in their national costume.

Later, we learnt that this was also a law of the land. The men, including the king himself, wear a kind of a housecoat up to the knee called the ‘Gho’. The sleeves are rolled up and the colour of its border differentiates various categories of people (eg. The common man wears a white band). The women’s dress is similar to the Kimono of Japan and is called ‘Kira’. For attending any government function or visiting the Dzong or Monastery both men and women have to compulsorily carry a strip of cloth on the shoulder called ‘Kera’.

The Druk hotel, perched high on a thickly wooded hill, looking down at the town below laid out in doll’s house proportions, is a perfect get-away. In the morning, a panoramic view of the serene tranquil valley gently blanketed by hazy blue mist awaits every visitor. The sun slowly peeps out moving aside the mystique veil and the town gradually comes out of its sleepy slumber. In the afternoon, laze around in the beautiful pine gardens at the back of the hotel. The whispering rustle of fallen leaves, the twittering murmur of returning birds, and the soft orange hue of the retreating evening rays will gift you a few priceless moments which are to be cherished all your life.

The Drugyel Dzong, 18 kms from the town, is the ruin of an impressive fortress monastery. It was from this monastery that the Bhutanese resisted Tibetan invaders several times during 17th century and eventually defeated them. On the way the rare sight of Mount Chomolhari, the most sacred peak in Bhutan, can be viewed in all its might when the weather is clear. To maintain its sanctity, mountaineers have not been permitted to scale its snow-capped peaks till date.

Taksang monastery built on the sheer face of a 3000ft. cliff, was the most revered monastery in the whole of Bhutan. Legends say that Guru Rimpoche, the founder of Buddhism in Bhutan landed on this idyllic hamlet thousands of years ago on the back of a tigress and meditated. This monastery is now a hallowed shrine and Bhutanese pilgrims from all over come to pray here at least once during their lifetime. Tourists can trek up to the cliff and the trek lasts about four hours.

The Rimpung Dzong, popularly known as Paro Dzong, was built by Shabdrung Namgyal in 1646. It stands majestically across the Paro river on a knoll rising in a straight climb from the river itself. It houses the monastic body of Paro, the office of the Dzongda (district administrative head) and Thrimpon (the judge) of Paro district. The castle shaped Ta-dzong, the previous watchtower of the Rimpung Dzong is now the national museum of Bhutan. The five-storied museum has a varied collection of Thangkas, mask, stuffed animals, weapons and dresses used by the royal families.

Entry to the Capital

Thimpu was crowned the capital of Bhutan in 1960. It is a scenic two-hour drive from Paro. A modern city bustling with cars, buses and people, yet it retains the national charm in its architectural form. By law all buildings in Thimpu have to be decorated with painted wooden panels.

A sightseeing trip includes a visit to the Tashi Cho Dzong, National Memorial Chorten, National library, Thangka painting school and a couple of view points. The Tashi Cho Dzong is the main Secretariat and also houses the throne-room of the King. The approach road is lined with willow trees and flower gardens. In the centre of the Dzong stand an imposing wooden mansion, the summer residence of Je Khenpo, the religious head. The Dzong buzzes with activity on weekdays and tourists are allowed to enter only on holidays except on business.

An impressive building commemorating the SAARC conference stands on the other side of the Thimpu-chu and is another delight to watch. Next to the Dzong is Bhutan’s only golf course – a nine hole circuit.

The Thangka painting school is worth a visit. Here you may encounter student monks in burgundy robes sitting devotionally in the class and trying to master the religious art on pieces of cloth.

The national library has some of the oldest records of Bhutanese history and religion. In the heart of the city proudly stands the magnificent National Memorial Chorten with its white washed dome. Built in 1974 in memory of the third king of Bhutan, it displays an exquisite statue of the Buddha.

A Journey to the Unknown

There are no trains in Bhutan and travel has to be undertaken by road. The roads are excellent although an occasional landslide may worsen stretches, especially during the monsoon months of July to September. Thimpu and Paro are the most coveted destinations but to get a real first hand feel of this remote land one needs to proceed further crossing the Do-chu la (la means a mountain pass) to central and eastern Bhutan.

The road to Punakha (70Kms from Thimpu) winds up from Simtokha Dzong, which guards the gateway to Thimpu, into pine forests and small villages for about 20 Kilometers. The road then opens miraculously into the northern ridge of the mountains. The huge, horizontal stretch of Himalayas from Do-chula at 11,500 feet is spectacular.

Then one has to swim across a whole range of wet and cold mountains to reach the valley of Punakha and Wangduephodrang. Punakha was the former capital and the head lama still spends the severe winter months in this citadel. The Dzong was strategically built during Namgyal’s reign on a natural island of two rivulets – Po Chu and Mo Chu (Chu means river). As Adam and Eve conjugate to form this universe, Po Chu (male) and Mo Chu (female)’s combined forces impart a special power on this Dzong. It has been tested not once but five times. The dzong has suffered the onslaught of four catastrophic fires and a devastating earthquake. Every time it rose as phoenix from the ashes of destruction. So construction work is a common sight in this fort.

Wangduephodrang sits serenely in the junction of Punakha Chu and Wangdi Chu. In Bhutan, every valley has a separate dzong and a unique legend to go with it. Wangdi is no exception. One day a small boy was playing with the pebbles and building a castle. On being asked by a lama, the boy replied that he was making a fort for God Almighty. Taking that as an omen, a Dzong was built on the place the boy was playing and it was named after him. Wangdi is a tiny hamlet with only one good hotel. There are two standard hotels: Hotel Zangdho-pelri en route to Punakha on a hilltop overlooking the valley, and the other on the way to Wangdi on the bank of the gently flowing Wangdi Chu. It is aptly named Dragon’s Nest.

The valley of the Black Necked Crane

East of Wangdi is Gangtey, (90 kms from Thimpu) from where one can trek to the beautiful Phobijka valley – the valley of the black necked crane. Gangtey is a small quiet place with rolling hills and green meadows surrounded by the famous black mountain ranges. The mist-covered hills look black even when the sun shines brightly. Gangtey Gompa looks quite forbidding perched atop a small hillock that rises straight from the valley floor. A few kilometers past the Gompa on the same valley is the village of Phobijka where black necked cranes settle down in the winter months to escape the severe cold.

Tongsa – From Where the Kings Hailed

This is the Royal family’s ancestral home. The Penelop of Tongsa defeated the rulers of other provinces and was declared the hereditary king. The king to be crowned has to hold the position of Tongsa Penelop prior to ascending the throne.

The road from Wangdi goes past the dramatic ups and downs of Pe-le la to enter central Bhutan. The yellow roofed Tongsa Dzong stands out brightly among the surrounding greenery but the approach road suddenly twists sideways and the town can be reached only after a frustrating 14 km. journey.

The Tongsa Dzong is an impregnable fortress due to its strategic position. From the courtyard one gets a commanding view of the entire valley. The inside reveals a complicated structure of a labyrinth of temples, corridors, and administrative offices. Both this one and Punakha Dzong have elaborate learning centers for the young lamas. In Bhutan, the law insists that at least one child per family serve as lama. Whether these young boys like such rigid system of learning where they are taught to abhor material comforts are not known. Too much probing can prove to be fatal for tourists. Religion and culture go hand in hand in Bhutan.

Boomthang – the Gateway to Eastern Bhutan

The Yu-to la and a series of hair-raising bends at 11,500 ft separate the valleys of Tongsa and Boomthang. The journey also offers some superb views with myriad waterfalls, dense forest, giant rhododendrons, wild orchids, numerous prayer flags and ingenious bridges made of wood and iron only. This Himalayan State has rightly earned the sobriquet of being the ‘Last Shangri-La’.

Comprising of four smaller valleys, Boomthang is shrouded with religious legend. Apart from the impressive Zakar Dzong this place is full of smaller temples. Tales of Padmasambhaba dominates these holy shrines but Pema Ling Pa, the great Buddhist teacher, also has a home here. The royal dynasty traces its ancestry through the descendents of this legendary guru.

Once there you will forget everything about history and just savour this spellbindingly beautiful rich environment. With its culture still intact, the people are very warm and frank. This may be the result of regular touch with the foreigners working on various aid projects. Incidentally, Bhutan is categorized among the most aided nations.

Boomthang has numerous apple orchards on both sides of Boomthang Chu. September – October is the perfect season to see them in full bloom. The Swiss farm is also interesting. Member Tso or the flaming lake is another place worth seeing. The legend here is also interesting – if any person speaks a lie in front of the lake a fiery dragon comes out of it and engulfs him. Tentatively we tried our luck and since nothing happened our guide happily announced us as truthful.

In winter this place becomes very cold and temperatures are many degrees below zero. All the rivulets and waterfalls turn into ice and the reflected sunrays create a kaleidoscope of colours. Visitors should plan to spend a few days here to hike to the nearby forests, temples, valleys. One such valley is Uravalley, with the village of the same name in its centre. A small old Dzong and cobbled stone path gives it an ancient touch.

Crossing the Thum Singla Pass

From Boomthang the drive across Thum Sing la at 12,456 ft, the highest point in Bhutan, brings one to eastern Mongar. Here the cliffs are steeper, pastures greener, the pines more dense and the waterfalls more gushing. In clear weather the Himalayan range covering the entire horizon can be viewed from the top of the pass. The most spectacular journey is a 20 km stretch from Sengor to Namning on the eastern side of the pass. Sheer drops of thousands of meters at a time, endless turns and frequent fog make the journey more unnerving yet exhilarating. Mongar comes as a welcome respite from the endless turns. It is a small transit town built on a slope to spend the night before going to Tashigang.

Arriving in Tashigang could be a momentous task since one passes through the strenuous yadi loops. For five miles the road creates figures of eight as it descends to the valley floor. The two small and remote places in Tashigang are Sakten and Merek on the eastern boarder near Arunachal Pradesh in India. The people here are nomadic yak herders known as Brokpas, who are remarkable for their exceptional features and bright coloured costumes.

The 17th century Dzong of Tashigang is built on a cliff on the edge of the town. The monks leave this place in winter and move to the warmer regions. A half an hour journey and one reaches chorten Kera, one of the only two temples built in the Nepalese style. The white washed domes of the chorten look reverential in this serene background.

The road from Tashigang to Sam Drup Zongkhar was completed in the early 1960s and the Indian border in Assam may be entered from here. This town is no more than a frontier post with a couple of decent hotels and restaurants.

Important information

Entering the Kingdom of Bhutan

1. Contact a tour company: Please contact a travel agency in your country or tour operator in Bhutan directly. Through the contact you can get the visa clearance number by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs Bhutan. This visa clearance number is required at the time purchasing of Druk Air ticket. Tourists are admitted only in groups by pre-arrangement with Bhutan’s Ministry of Tourism. Entry is available only via India, Bangladesh, Nepal, and Thailand; the border with China is closed. Passport and visa are required.

2. Visas: At the time of entry into the Kingdom, by showing the visa approval papers, you get an actual visa on your passport. Visa fee for staying 15 days in Bhutan is US$20. You can extend the visa up to 6 months with a fee of 510 Nu (approx USD1= Nu.42/43).

3. Return ticket: Druk Air return ticket can be purchased at the counter of Druk Air main office Thimphu. Only US$ cash is accepted.

4. Airport tax: When leaving the Kingdom from Paro international airport you pay 300Nu. in cash only.

For entry information, contact the

Bhutan Travel Service

120 East 56th Street, New York

N.Y.,10022 at (212)838-6382, or

The Bhutanese Mission to the United Nations in New York at (212)826-1919

Road

Bhutan has no trains and the road network is not extensive. However, principal sites likely to be visited by travelers are connected by reasonably well maintained two-lane roads. Traffic is rarely heavy, but sharp curves, narrow lanes, and limited visibility in mountainous terrain make traveling slow and hazardous.

Special regulations

You cannot get into the Kingdom without the contract of a tour company. Tour expense is fixed rate by government, which is as expensive as US$200. The cost includes food, lodging, transport and the facility of English speaking tourist guide. The amount varies slightly depending on the number of passengers and the season.

Photography is restricted in most monasteries and Dzongs. Please check rules on the spot before getting ready to click. Tipping or bribing is a punishable offence.

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