When most people think of Greece, they usually visualize the Greek Islands dotted with tiny white washed villages and lined with sandy beaches. Most travelers head straight to Athens to do the obligatory Acropolis trot and then catch a boat or flight to the Greek island of their dreams. During the
height of summer, the islands are packed with tourists while the rest and the best of Greece remain relatively uncrowded.
If you are looking to experience the Greece of your dreams, consider putting the islands aside and check out the Peloponnese. It is a region offering a grab bag of outstanding beauty, cozy villages, culture without tourists, world class archeological sites, and superb beaches without the crowds. For this intrepid traveler, the Peloponnese ranks as my favorite region to tour in Europe.
A good starting point for a tour of the Peloponnese is Nafplio (map), one of Greece’s prettiest towns. Nafplio, the first Greek capital, is blessed with attractive Venetian architecture and a pleasant harbor lined with palm trees. Moreover, an imposing Venetian citadel sits high above the town. Check out this marvelous fortress by taking the stairs – all 1000 of them – upward for a stupendous view of the surrounding sea and the nearby islands. At night, the fortress is entirely lit up, offering one of Europe’s most stunning views as you approach Nafplio by car. Nafplio also makes a fine home base for exploring some of Greece’s most impressive and inspiring archeological site – Mycenae and Epidaurus.
The ancient city of Mycenae and the great theater at Epidaurus should not be missed. Both ancient sites can be experienced in the course of a day from Nafplio. Ancient Mycenae sits on an impressive yet somber site. A remnant of an ancient kingdom that dominated Greece during the same period Ramses II ruled Egypt. Imagine you’re Agamemnon as you walk under the famous Lions Gate. Bring a flashlight so you can explore the secret cistern and the nearby beehive tombs. Test the wild acoustics in one of the beehive tombs. Walk the diameter of the tomb and see how your voice changes – pretty wild.
At Mycenae, you’ll feel like Indiana Jones without the whip.
The 3rd-century theater at Epidaurus is the best preserved Greek theater anywhere. It is a magical place to visit especially without the crowds. Try dropping a coin in the center of the stage while your traveling partner listens from the highest seat. Each year in July and August, ancient dramas are performed during the Festival of Epidaurus. I recently attended a performance and the experience was a travel high point. Although each of these sites is quite popular, crowds can be minimized by visiting either early in the morning or in the late afternoon.
Also consider visiting Tiryns, a short drive from Napflio. This well preserved masterpiece of ancient military architecture has well-preserved ramparts and outer walls. Don’t miss the east casemates. Best of all, Tiryns is rarely crowded. You may have the entire site to yourself.
Napflio is also a good place to rent a car. Although public transportation is pretty good in this region (bus), having your own wheels will allow you to get a taste of the Peloponnese you otherwise would miss. Begin your journey by driving south along the scenic Arcadian Coast towards the town of Leonidio. Leonidio is a pleasant white-washed village snuggled next to a steep wall of red tinted cliffs.
Continue south over the rugged Parnon Mountains to the mountain town of Kosmas. Take a break and enjoy a cold drink under a shady tree in Kosmas’s attractive and lively square. Complete your journey by driving to the wonderfully preserved cobblestone medieval town of Monemvassia. Dramatically set, Monemvassia is build on a massive rock that seems to burst from the
surrounding sea.
The Peloponnese offers the traveler ample opportunities to visit unique regions largely ignored by most tourists. The Mani, with it’s lunar like landscape, bizarre tower settlements, and traditional way of life are a good example of such an opportunity. While touring the Mani, don’t miss the extraordinary Diros Caves, where you can glide along a subterranean river in a small boat amidst clusters of stalactites and stalagmites.
Gythio, and attractive fishing town with a bustling waterfront is pleasant gateway to the Mani. Gythio also makes a fine home base for visiting the captivating ruins at Mystras, one the Peloponnese’s most impressive sites.
Opportunities abound in the Peloponnese for relaxation accompanied by fine beaches and good food. The small fishing village of Finikoundas makes for a fine vacation from your vacation. Here you’ll find a small sandy beach, good food, and no archeological sites for miles. Just down the road from Finikoundas is Koroni, a pretty port town offering pastel-tiled Venetian houses and a castle.
Zaga beach, with its gold sand is one of the finest in Greece. Nearby Methoni is a pleasant seaside town with a sandy beach and a magnificent 13th-century fortress. Moreover, Methoni has one of the best restaurants in Greece; the Taverna Klimateria.
For yet another picturesque town, visit Pylos, a short drive north from Methoni. A beautiful natural harbor and lively town square make Pylos a worthwhile stop. Further north near the town of Tholos, you will find some of finest and least crowded beaches in all of Greece. Long stretches of empty golden sand and bathtub warm waters make up this surprisingly undeveloped coast. If you are looking to slow down your pulse, you will not be disappointed.
The Peloponnese offers much more to the traveler. A tour of Greece would not be complete without a visit to Ancient Olympia, birthplace of the Olympic Games. If possible, spend the night in the nearby modern village of Olympia and visit the site early in the morning – a truly sublime experience.
Afterwards, visit the excellent museum nearby; one of the finest in Greece. The enchanting mountain towns of Dimitsana, Stemnitsa, and Karitena in central Arcadia provide the traveler a taste of traditional Greece fast disappearing on the islands. Here, old men still play backgammon, sip ouzo,
and chat about the days’ events with the town priest. Nearby, women hang laundry, tend to shops, and light candles in the town churches. In the meantime, young people dream of leaving home for a more exciting life in the big cities far away.
I once asked a local villager who owned a souvenir shop why her village was not visited more by tourists from outside Greece. She said with pride, “I guess it’s because people like to visit only the popular places, not always the best places.”
I think she was right.
