There's more to southern France than the Riviera. While visitors flock to Nice, Cannes, and Monaco in droves, the western portion of France's Mediterranean coastline is just as beautiful--with half the tourists and for a fraction of the cost.
Anne-Sophie Redisch goes in search of the mother of all medieval cities - and Raymond-Roger Trencavel, handsome 13th century devil and hero, a man centuries ahead of his time - un parfait chevalie