It is easy to think that Hinduism is polytheistic, but Balinese believe in only one god - one with many manifestations. One Balinese put it to me this way: "I am just one person; someday I might be a farmer, another a driver, yet another a cook, but I am still only one person."

This one deity is known as Sanghyang Widi Wasa. The main manifestation of Sanghyang Widi Wasa is in the Hindu trinity: Brahma the creator, Wisnu (Vishnu) the preserver, and Siwa (Shiva) the destroyer. Manifestations of god also appear for geographical areas (such as the ocean and mountains) and attributes (such as fertility and learning). But there is also evil in the world. The deities live on the mountains, the evil beings under the sea. Balinese make offerings to both: paying homage to the good ones, placating the bad. They seek a balance between these two forces. At almost every glance you will see black and white checkered cloth draping statues. This represents the balance between good and evil. Their daily lives and temples also reflect this.

Balinese temples are walled and consist of three courtyards. The outer courtyard is often outside the wall and represents hell. The middle courtyard represents an intermediate area; the inner courtyard represents heaven. As you walk from the outside of a temple into the inner court, you are walking the divine universal path, from perdition to paradise. Inside the courtyards are shrines and pavilions.

It is said that Bali has 20,000 temples. Some are quite famous, such as Pura Besakih, Pura Taman Ayun and Pura Tanah. Besakih is known as the mother temple of Bali and considered the most sacred. A good way to see different parts of the island is to visit the special temples of Pura Ulun Danu Bratan and Pura Luhur Batukau, and the famous seaside temple of Pura Tanah Lot. The three can be seen in one day. Start with Bratan in the late morning and have lunch overlooking the lake. Visit Batukau in the afternoon and enjoy the coolness of the mountain and forests. Finally make sure to get to Tanah Lot to see the sunset.

Pura Danu Bratan is perhaps the most picturesque of the three and is located on the shores of Lake Bratan. Built in the early 1600s, Danu Bratan is dedicated to the goddess of the lake, Dewi Danau. Two of its multi-roofed shrines or merus are actually on small pieces of land in the water and when the mist hangs over the lake, appear to be suspended between heaven and earth. Outside the temple complex, but still on the grounds, is a Buddhist stupa. The complex also includes gardens and majestic views of the lake and central mountain area. Head off to Batukau via Jatuluih, which means "truly marvelous," and the views from this winding road truly are. There is a toll, which helps the local people maintain the bucolic vistas. It is here that you'll see unobstructed views of miles of rice paddy terraces nestled in the mountains.

Pura Luhur Batukau is on the side of Bali's third major mountain and holy peak, Gunung Batukau. Surrounded by forests, it is misty and lush. It includes shrines to Maha Dewa, the mountain spirit and to the three nearby mountain lakes: Bratan, Buyan and Tamblingan. Down many steps to one side of the complex is a tranquil pond and shrine. Down an equal number of steps on the opposite side is a small river.

To conclude a temple-day, head further south to Pura Tanah Lot to watch the sunset. Popular with sightseers, this in none-the-less quite a spectacle to behold. This temple is built on a small rock in the ocean and connected, at low tide, to the mainland by a strip of sand and stone. Unlike the temples at Bratan and Batukau, which are dedicated to mountains and mountain lakes, Tanah Lot is dedicated to the spirits of the sea. Protected by sea snakes at high tide, this small temple and trees perched precariously against the ocean surf seems to defy logic. It is perhaps Bali's most photographed temple.

For Bratan and Tanah Lot, the temple courtyards are not accessible to tourists and the dress code does not apply, but dress modestly. For Batukau, since you will have access to the entire complex, you will need a sarong and a sash. A sarong is for anyone who has bare leg showing; everyone must wear a sash. Both can be rented at most major temples. Because of a general rule against blood on sacred soil, menstruating women and people with open wounds should not enter a temple.

One can rent a car and drive to these temples but the roads are narrow, mountainous, and traffic signs and signals are few. It is better to hire a car and driver to guide you. The usual fare is $20-25 per day. A suggested base for Bali excursions is the village of Jimbaran on the southern peninsula. Bali Inter-Continental Hotel (701-888) is a fantastic complex designed by a Balinese architect, filled with gardens, pools, swans, and its own temple. For those with more cash to spare, the Four Seasons Resort at Jimbaran Bay (701-010) is usually at the top of most top-ten travel lists.

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