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Lying on the beach, looking up at the jagged, misty ranges of limestone peaks, it's easy to wish yourself up, up and away. Up where the birds wheel over the snow patches, where crocuses and tulips open their petals to the blue sky, where silence is absolute and the air is clear.
Walking in Turkey has long been a problem due to lack of maps, but in Lycia, on the south coast between Fethiye and Antalya (map), there is a newly marked long distance walking route. So, if you fancy walking something different, new and also old (there are plenty of 2000 year old plus historical sites on the route), here's how....
First, check out this web site: www.lycianway.com.
Second, decide when. Best season is spring, because of the flowers, the birds and the snow which still covers the highest peaks. Autumn is second best, with plenty of swimming and not-too-strenuous strolls in the sun. But even in summer, the eastern part, which climbs up into cedar forest, and wriggles between canyons, is OK.
Third, decide where. In general, the route starts easy and gets harder. It can be broken up into a few sections:
Olu Deniz to Pydnai is along paths perched on cliffs above the sea.
To Kalkan is easy walking around the delta and through major ruins.
Kalkan to Kas is a high route, well away from civilisation.
Kas to Myra is a seaside route through maquis and beside harbours and ruins.
Myra to Fethiye is hard work - up to the land of summer pastures and hidden churches.
Then a couple of lonely headlands, with lovely views, take you from Karaöz to Olympos.
From Olympos home it's high walking over Tahtali, through cedars and down gorges.
You need overnight gear (in places you have to camp out); food and water, and good boots. Travel light, but be careful and obey commonsense rules:
don't light fires except in existing fireplaces;
don't leave litter;
don't get sunstroke;
carry plenty of water.
But other rules are less obvious:
Accept hospitality, but try and leave a gift in return;
hitchhike, but offer to buy some petrol;
accept food if it's offered, but not too much.
Above all, smile, shake hands, take your time and let the magic of these hills sink in.
The book of the route, with maps, will be out soon. For further information, feel free to contact me:
Kate Clow
Ph: (90) 242 243 1148
kateclow@ixir.com
Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our Middle East Insiders page.
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