Trekking Season
October is the start of the official trekking season. It is also the end of the monsoon. The end of the monsoon is a time of celebration among the Nepalese Hindi's and Buddhists.
The major festival of the year is celebrated in October. It is called Dasai. As far as I can determine it involves nearly two weeks of celebration, this involves buying and wearing new clothes as well, of course, a lot of puja.
The trekking trails are humming with people at this time of the year.
News Flash
In July this year the visa prices have changed. You no longer have to get trekking permits but tourist visas have doubled in price including some very confusing new laws. I will try to explain.
OK...
To get in, it costs US$60 for 60 days, then to renew it costs $50 per 30 days or part thereof. If you are leaving the country, your visa days still tick away so it may appear more sensible to let your visa expire and then get a new one when you come back. However, this will
cost you $60 for thirty days and $50 every 30 days or part after. So if you leave the country and then come back for 40 days instead of costing $40 it will now cost $110. Confused?
When you renew your visa you will need to bring the money needed in cash in Nrs to the immigration office, as well as a passport photo.
But you don't need to get a trekking permit!! Which saves a lot of hassle.
City Update
The working week has now changed from 6 days to 5, Mon-Fri. Keep this in mind when dealing with Government offices such as immigration. This also means that the day usually starts at nine or nine thirty instead of ten.
Number one bus leaves from the airport to the center of town but is very crowded if you have a backpack. Number 19 bus goes to Swyambu Stupa. Entry fee is now 50 Nrs.
I am going to Chittwan this weekend. Most travel agencies offer a three day package ranging in price from about $45 (if you stay outside the park) to over $400. Have a look around before you pay for anything.
Day Trips
If you want a day trip out of Kathmandu, the Royal Botanical Garden is a worthwhile venture. You can catch a local bus from the bus park near Patan (number 14). For four rupees it will take you all the way to Godawari, a pleasant 45min drive through some rice paddies and villages.
Once you get to the last bus stop continue up the road until it is no longer tarred turn left and walkdown hill you will soon reach the main entrance to the gardens. It costs 25 Nrs for foreigners to enter. If you catch a taxi you will have to pay a parking fee while they wait for
you.
There is a restaurant in the gardens but I didn't eat there. There is more in the town at the left-hand turn you made to get to the gardens. You can, of course, also bring a picnic.
Update on living costs. I have been living on an average of US$50 a week. This does not include buying souvenirs or luxury lunches.
Chitwan, Pokhara, and Lumbini
PLEASE NOTE: to save a lot of extra stress and hassle add an extra one to four hours onto the length of any bus trip. Busses run to their own schedule and while they tend to leave often they also stop often and have an incredible ability to suck time straight out of the day.
Especially the local busses.
Most guest houses all over Nepal have solar heated hot water, which disappears when it rains.
Chitwan
I went for a weekend at Chitwan National Park, an organised package tour saves time but costs money. The tourist season starts this weekend so prices have increased.
A package tour typically includes, bus trip down, all food (but not drinks), cultural tour of a village (which can be disappointing as local inhabitants are pointed out like exhibits in a zoo, and talked about rather than to), elephant ride, jungle walk, cultural show, and a canoe ride. While it sounds like a lot to do in two days if you get up early you still have time in the day to relax.
Tours normally leave on Friday morning and get back to Kathmandu on Sunday evening. I booked through a company called Eco Trek. Bimal Naharki is the director and they will charge $50 for a weekend at Jungle Lagoon including all of the above.
Email: ecotrek@wlink.com.np
Ph: 424-112 Fax 00977 1 413118
The office is in Thamel. This company also organises treks, and tours
to Tibet.
Lumbini
Many people choose Chitwan as a starting point for trips to Pokhara, India, and Lumbini. I went to Lumbini. This is the birth place of Buddha. There are plans to turn this town into an international pilgrimage site. Already there have been four temples built here, Nepalese, Tibetan, Chinese, and one from Borneo (I think), and several more under construction. These are beautiful buildings and well worth the visit.
There is also the sacred garden, which contains old ruins, and the pool where Buddha's mother gave birth. The town itself is quite beautiful with acres of tall grasses, avenues of trees and a peaceful atmosphere which makes a change from most tourist destinations.
I enjoy walking around and through temples and soaking up a place like this and don't like to be rushed. For this reason I would suggest a full day to see Lumbini. Include a sunrise as this is very beautiful. This would mean staying two nights, although many people only come for four or five hours.
Getting There
Getting there is a little difficult as you have to catch local busses and this can leave tourists open to more of a culture shock than they are prepared. Travel with a companion. Find out from a friendly local, your guide, a waiter, or owner of your lodge the most direct route
to where you want to go and how much it will cost.
People will exaggerate the truth a little to convince you that you must catch their or their friend's service. That said, many people are very friendly and will offer the advice after a few moments conversation.
The major town outside Lumbini is Bhairawa and from here it is an hour bus ride into town, (even though it is only 22km). Try to get a seat on the roof. The last express bus leaves Bhairawa at 10am for Kathmandu so this does not leave much time in the morning to have a look around. And if you are traveling from Chitwan or Pokhara you probably won't get in until evening.
Accommodation
The accommodation is not abundant. I stayed in the monastery opposite the garden restaurant as you walk into town. The sacred garden is on the other side of the monastery. Accommodation is very basic we had to share our room with a mouse. The proprietor of the guest house was a little
hard to handle after a long dusty bus ride but he is only trying to be nice, even if he is a little insistent about it.
Cost should be between 70-200Nrs as it is donation. The garden restaurant is a little expensive but the owner gave us a free tour of the town so it worked out. Even if they don't offer you this they will give a lot of good advice about the local area. There is also dorm style accommodation here for 70Nrs a night.
Pokhara
People will say that Pohkara is a 6-7 hour bus ride from Kathmandu. I did it twice last weekend and it took 8-10hrs. The bus should cost 200 rupees unless you get a deluxe service, which includes A/C and breakfast.
Beware: our bus tickets cost us 180Nrs but we had to pay 50 rupees for the taxi to the bus stop. This was only 300 meters up the road!! So, ask where the bus leaves from before you accept any offer for a cab ride.
In Pokhara, taxis don't use meters and are hugely expensive. A bike may be a more attractive option as there is much less traffic than Kathmandu. There is also a local bus service.
Accommodation
Accommodation is variable and having Nepalese companions to ask the price of a room for you makes a huge difference in the cost. We paid 200Nrs for a room with attached bath in a resort, with views of the lake. A friend stayed in Cosmos guest house, which is 125Nrs, a single,
200Nrs for doubles. She says that the only disturbance to the peace here is the over amorous geckos. It is off the main street, north of lakeside, near the Tibetan monastery with good views of the lake. The monastery holds courses for foreigners.
Places to Eat
Puja Bakery and Coffee shop serves lush museli, and is quite reasonably priced. The food here is more expensive than in Kathmandu. For dinner or lunch with a drink, expect to pay 150 to 250Nrs for a meal. The Gorkha restaurant and bar serves a divine Palak Paneer.
Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our Asia Insiders page.
