Survivor's guide to the Edinburgh Festival Fringe
Edinburgh, Scotland
by
Rob Mathison
Fringe Venues
OK, you've bought the black shirt, you're feeling bohemian, where do those in the know go?
Traverse Theatre
Cambridge Street, 0131 228 5383
Mmmm, chrome. This very popular festival venue has an upscale chrome-clad bar underneath it. It's central and great for star spotting.
The Hub
Castlehill Royal Mile, 0131 473 2001
The name doesn't lie, The Hub is right in the centre of things at festival time, offering mostly music with good food and a bar.
Gilded Balloon Theatre
5/2 Bristo Square, 0131 226 6550
The headquareters of this famous comedy Fringe burnt down last year, but its a Fringe institution and lives on at other venues around town, notably this one. Check out the Late'n'Live shows here.
Pleasance Courtyard
60 The Pleasance, 0131 556 6550
A collection of many venues, The Pleasance has indoor and outdoor bars and is the best place for spotting celebrities, often quite drunken celebrities.
Places to Eat
If you book ahead there are some quality restaurants in Edinburgh.
Rogue
67 Morrison Street, 0131 228 2700
Unusual decor with an eclectic menu and relaxed atmosphere.
Howie's
29 Waterloo Place, 0131 556 5766
At its various locations around the city, Howie's serves up excellent food at even better prices.
Tower
Museum Of Scotland, Chambers Street, 0131 225 3003
A restaurant on top of a museum! Not only that but it's rooftop location offers great views of the festival fireworks at the Castle. Pricy and busy though.
Valvona & Crolla
19 Elm Row, Leith Walk, 0131 556 7800
In the east end of town, this Italian deli has been around since the 1930s and serves Italian food with a Scottish accent.
Edinburgh's Pubs
There are many, many, oh so many, pubs in Edinburgh. Here are a few to try out.
The Brass Monkey
14 Drummond Street, 0131 556 1961
Laid back pub near Fringe venues and with free movies showing in the back room, to be viewed from a giant cushion-strewn bed no less. A penniless J.K. Rowland dreamed up Harry Potter in a cafe round the corner on Nicholson St.
The Shore
3 The Shore, 0131 553 5080
Cozy bar and restaurant, popular with the locals, and situated by the waterfront in Trainspotting author Irvine Welsh's territory, Leith. Ideal for summer pints outside.
The Pear Tree
38 West Nicolson Street, 0131 667 7533
The best and biggest beer garden in town. A mixed crowd of tourists, bikers, artsy people and locals enjoy a cold one under nature's roof.
Barony Bar
81-85 Broughton Street, 0131 557 0546
A very popular and down-to-earth place. Good food, good company, good beer. Good luck in getting in.
Getting Around
You don't trust your map-reading skills and it's 3am in the morning. How do you get home?
Walking's the best way to get around but taxis are plentiful and distances short but congested, resulting in some un-festival-like grumpiness at times on the part of some. Just sympathize.
Places to Stay
Edinburgh may never seem to sleep during August but you will want to. Whatever you choose, book early.
There's a strip of B&Bs on Minto St in South Edinburgh all seemingly owned by little old ladies called Agnes. Try www.edinburgh.org for help with accommodation.
Ever so slightly upscale are Princes Street's grand hotels, The Caledonian to the west and The Balmoral to the east.
If sharing a room with four snoring backpackers is your thing, there are many hostels around town for those on lower budgets. There are no less than four official YHA hostels in Edinburgh or try these Edinburgh hostels.
Or how bout renting your own apartment? Try www.festivalflats.net for central flats available to rent during August.
Family Fun
The nude Shakespeare readings may be great for Mom and Dad, but how about the three kids?
Edinburgh Zoo
Corstorphine Rd, 0131 225 9846
Check out the penguin parade at lunchtimes. They walk funny.
Museum of Scotland
Chambers Street, 0131 247 4422
Educational AND fun. And there's a bar restaurant upstairs Dad.
Dynamic Earth
Holyrood Rd, 0131 550 7800
Fun AND educational, with added explosions and other earth-creation type stuff. Good 'wow' rating.
Commonwealth Pool
21 Dalkeith Rd, 0131 667 7211
Doggy paddlers of the world unite. Big indoor pool and waterslide complex.
Sights in Edinburgh
So you've done the festival, now what?
Edinburgh Castle, Royal Mile
A castle in the middle of a city. What more do you need to know?
Arthur's Seat
A climbable volcano (albeit an extinct one) in the middle of a city. These Edinburgh town planners really knew their stuff.
Mary King's Close
City Chambers, 0131 557 6464
Stories of Edinburgh's (alarmingly plentiful) selection of ghosts and spooky happenings.
Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre
354 Castlehill, 0131 220 0441
You get to ride in a replica whisky barrel AND have a tasting session. Sadly not at the same time.
Out of Toon
If yet another juggling clown doesn't appeal, Scotland is an accessible country and there is much to see within a day's drive of Edinburgh.
Take the high road north to discover imposing lochs, and spectacular mountain-scapes. This country knows its scenery.
Head up the east coast to St Andrews where Prince William lives. Bear in mind he'll probably be downing pints back in Edinburgh. Nice beach though.
Down south in the Borders there's some good golf to be had here amongst the farmland and quaint towns.
Or go west to Glasgow. It's gritty not pretty, but Glaswegians will be pleased to see you there during festival time as they feel a bit left out. Otherwise head to Stirling and Braveheart country. Is that a statue of Mel Gibson?
Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our Europe Insiders page.