Local Attractions? Some might immediately exclaim, the women! I overheard many a hostel conversation between young men on the subject of Scandinavian, but particularly, alluring Icelandic beauty. Well, yes, I'd have to concur: blond bombshells in the supermarket, blond bombshells in the bank, blond...you get it.
Not only that, Reykjavik itself is a very attractive city. Clean, easily navigatable, full of friendly folk, and teeming with museums and galleries.
For the artistically (or appreciatingly) inclined, you have a pretty impressive array to choose from:
The National Gallery of Iceland, located across from the pond on Frikirkjuvegur 7, is open daily, 11AM-5PM, closed Mondays. Wednesdays are free, and normally, adults pay 400kr. Three great things about the National Gallery: It's full of light and spacious!, 2: During the summer months the exhibitions typically feature Icelandic artists, 3: It's reasonably priced and very airy cafe also has free internet access. (NB!)
The Reykjavik Art Museum has three branches. The Asmundarsafn Museum features the works of sculptor Asmunder Sveinsson. The Hafnarhus (or Harbor House) opened in 2000 and features a large collection of Erro. The Kjarvalsstadir Museum, remains devoted to the works of Kjarval, Icelandic's influential and beloved 20th century landscape painter. All are free on Mondays. Adults cost 500kr the rest of the week. Hours vary.
The Asmundarsafn Museum is open May through September from 10AM-4PM, and from October through April, 1PM-4PM. This is a small museum, but if you are fascinated by the sculptural humanoids at Hallgrim's Church, you'll want to check out the rest of this sculptor's works. A small museum, with a small outdoor sculpture garden as well (small garden, BIG sculptures!), this museum is still definitely worth it if you're an art lover. Take the #5 bus from the city center.
The Hafnarhus is open daily 11AM-6PM, Wednesdays 11AM-7PM. If you like Pop Art, cartoons, witty social commentary, and/or overwhelmingly colorful things, you shouldn't miss the Erro collection, permanently housed here. Icelandic pop artist Erro donated a large number of his works to this stylishly modern museum on the waterfront, and free Mondays leave you with no excuses!
The Kjarvalsstadir Museum is open daily 10AM-5PM. Supplementing a stylistically expansive collection by Kjarval, an Icelandic landscape legend, are exhibitions featuring newer works by both Icelandic and foreign artists.
The Reykjavik Museum of Photography is located on the top (6th) floor of the Grogarhusi, the public library. The library is ultramodern and fun just to check out, and the photography gallery upstairs is open Monday through Friday, 1-5PM, and free. The 2004 summer show is "Contemporary Finnish Photography", showcasing the works of a number of Finnish photographers. Adjacent to the exhibition space on the top floor is also a great little art library. It boasts an impressive selection of recent photography magazines, lots of big photo books and it is equipped with both the trendy and the traditional stuff. The library and museum are located at Tryggvagotu 15.
I had heard rave reviews of the Living Art Museum, located on Vatnsstigur 3, on the 2nd and 3rd floors, which was frustratingly closed on several occasions during its alleged opening hours. One day the doors were open, so we ventured upstairs...to find an empty gallery space, minus exposed rafters, splintering beams, wires dangling everywhere like snakes, a busted-up bathroom with a bright yellow plastic toilet seat, and two coca cola bottles filled with electric red liquid. In any case, we set up a quick and dramatic photo shoot, featuring Us Amidst Wreckage, and quickly jetted, as we were probably trespassing. Anyway, I hear the museum is really cool, renovations are scheduled to be complete in August 2004. So, check it out.
Ljosmyndaskoli Sissu appears to be a photography school with a great student exhibition in its gallery. Unpretentious yet very hip, there's lots of really creative work in this welcoming 2nd floor space. Located on Laugavegi 25 (the main drag).
Close to the photo school is SAFN, on Laugavegur 37. Open everyday from 2-6PM, it's free for students and seniors, and 200kr for everyone else. No one's at the door charging though, so it's probably by donation. Three floors (connected by very narrow staircases) of changing exhibitions, topped off by a great art library and a computer hooked up for free internet use. (Yes! More free internet!) The latest expensive glossy arty magazines and big coffeestyle books featuring obscure Scandinavian artists...this is the place. Also, on the second floor, a toilet. An art installation? I don't know...but go ahead, use it. I did.
And for the Non-Arts!
Hallgrim's Church- even if you wanted to, you couldn't miss it. But why would you want to? The serene and voluminous insides of this concrete Gotham City looking church belie its hard exterior, but don't take it from me. If you're lucky like I was, at a random time in the afternoon, the lulling voices of two clergymen may fill the entire church with instant reverence through simple song. The outside of the church is a big sculpture courtyard of sorts, fun to hang out in. It was built as a tribute to Hallgrimur Petursson, one of Iceland's most beloved poets. The steeple is a whopping 73 meters high...you can take an elevator to the top to appreciate the gorgeous view. That costs 300kr, and the church is open 9AM-6PM. Located up on the hill, between Eiriksgata and Baronsstigur.
Located at the head of the pond, cantilevering over the water, Reykjavik's City Hall is a unconventionally designed building- it looks way more Art School than Town Hall. Check out the incredible and huge 3D relief map of Iceland (it's 70m2) in its lobby; it also has a nice cafe.
If you're out for some real Icelandic kitsch, be sure to hit up the weekend Kolaportio Flea Market, by the harbor, next to the Esso station. With everything from ugly housewares to ugly clothes, to pickled fish, old postcards, stamps, and photocopies of Renaissance Art in plastic gold frames...you might finally find some affordable gifts! Saturdays and Sundays 11AM-5PM.
For a bit of history, visit the "Museum Village" type place known as Arbaejarsafn, or the Aeber Open Air Museum. It was established by the city in the late 50s to show the public a slice of life in the past. Traditional houses dating from the 19th century have been furnished with such old school amenities as printing presses and goldsmith workshops. In the summer, senior citizens demonstrate the traditional methods of work. Tuesday through Friday, 10AM-5PM, Saturday and Sunday, 10AM-6PM.
And after a full day of sightseeing, you'll need to relax. Where do the locals go? Head to the Thermal Pools to meet some new friends, eavesdrop on gossip, and soak in soothing heat. Almost like going to the bar, many people after work meet up at the "hot pots" for a more affordable way to unwind. The best thermal pools can be found in Laugardalslaug, next to the Youth Hostel and the National Sports Stadium. Bus #5 will take you right there, you can also take 4, 10, 11, 12, 15. Open daily, 6:30AM-10PM. In Reykjavik, there are at least six others. Check out this comprehensive list.
Questions?
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