It's spring again in Paris.

Despite the fashion industry's determination to get us out of black, guess what? We're still dressed in black. While all the shop windows gush with varying shades of fuschia and yellow (much the same colors as the flower plantings in Luxembourg gardens), the crisp April temperatures have Parisians still swaddled in head to toe black including stylish black boots. Some have conceded to a dash of red, either shoes, or for those who feel especially flamboyant, a long red skirt. Ballerina shoes are back in force, in varying shades of Necco pastels, but only in the shop windows. On the street, I spotted one pair of ballerinas: they were black, paired with an above the knee, pleated wool skirt. Maybe we are waiting for warm weather before the metamorphosis into color.

During my first walk along Boulevard St. Germain, I'm delighted to see Paris's finest 'The Men in Blue' on rollerblades. In the old days, they used to patrol the student neighborhood, taut-faced, packed into vans, and more recently, armed with machine guns while they guarded the Tour Montparnasse for the months following 9/11.

That's not to say that there isn't concern regarding public transport. No one has ever taken safety for granted in Paris, which has already suffered its share of losses from terrorism. In 1985, bombs ripped through the Metro stops Rennes and St. Michel, and a decade earlier, bombs exploded at Goldenberg's, a well-known Jewish delicatessen, in the Marais district, a temple on Rue Copernic, and also in front of Fouquets, the famous café on Champs Elysee. One friend suggested taking buses rather than the Metro, or better yet, walking. Others, who take the Metro all the time, remain blasé. Security, in France, is less talked about, and usually more subtle. For example, all public trashcans are now clear plastic bags. The mailboxes only allow for letters to be deposited. The byword here is 'normality'. Trust the 'Men in Blue' to do their job.

In Spring, for one day, Bois de Vincennes transforms into a separate country: Nouvelle Cambodia. This year Cambodian New Year coincides with Easter Sunday (April is the usual time period). The focal point is the pagoda poised on the edge of Lac Daumesnil. The pagoda serves Paris's Buddhist adherents and an adjacent building houses monks.

Unlike European or American New Year, there are no New Year resolutions and no one breaks out the champagne. This is a spiritual celebration, beginning with the bringing of food to the monks who eat early in the day. Throughout the day, Cambodians visit the pagoda and receive blessings and counsel from the monks and nuns. It is normal to give a small donation. We spoke to one nun who told us about her flight from Cambodia at the time of Pol Pot. She chooses to remain at the pagoda rather than live with family members. Her plan is to return to Cambodia where she will build a Buddhist school and temple depending on the generosity of those of us who can contribute. Dozens of food stands and barbecues are positioned just outside the pagoda grounds where one can try some traditional Cambodian snacks like banana and taro fritters, marinated chicken and pork kebabs, spring rolls and soy beans marinated in a spicy fermented crab sauce.

For one day, the fields of Bois de Vincennes become the setting for the biggest family picnic ever seen. It would be fair to say that the majority of Cambodians living in Paris show up for this annual event to 1) receive a blessing for the New Year, 2) re-establish family ties, and 3) see and be seen.

The pagoda, which is not always open to the public, is open to all visitors for the Cambodian New Year. If you plan on entering, you should dress respectfully for the occasion and be sure to take off your shoes before walking on the mats that have been set out for prayer and 'kowtowing'.

Although this is primarily for spiritual renewal, it's also very much the social event of the year. Cambodian bands play lilting, romantic music. Young couples dance on the pagoda grounds as the incense wafts upward. Shy teenagers steal furtive glances at one another. At other times, they may grow bored with family gatherings, but today they tend to linger 'till the last rays of daylight wane. It's springtime and romance is in the air.

To get to Bois de Vincennes, take the Metro to Metro stop: Porte D'Oree. Other attractions include the Bois de Vincennes Zoo, vast spaces for jogging, and bicycling. You can also rent rowboats at Lac Daumesnil.

April 29^th to May 7^th marks the 100^th Anniversary of the Paris Fair, held at the Porte de Versailles in several huge convention halls. Admission price is €10 per day. It will take you at least a full day to wend your way through the maze of buildings. Many French visitors come here to get ideas for their homes. They can see the latest in interior design, furniture and appliances. The Paris Fair advertises in their brochure that many 20^th century inventions, like the washing machine and the refrigerator, were first displayed at the Paris Fair before becoming household fixtures.

In fact, this year's 100^th anniversary celebration will host singers, musicians and dancers who will be commemorating the 20^th century's most important events and underlining its contributions to the 'art of living'. Some of the themes will include: woman's liberation, decolonisation, cultures of the world, and the impact of wars on the way people lived, in particular, World War I.

If you decide to go to the Paris Fair, I would definitely recommend starting with Building 3. This is the wine and food building. You may not get any farther than the wine! Vendors are eager to give you sample 'degustations'. You normally cannot buy a bottle of wine on the premises, but vendors will take orders for 6 to 12 bottles. Some vendors may not be able to deliver overseas.

In the regional food products area, you can sample foie gras, cheeses, honey, breads. These two areas could easily take half the day, which leaves you some time to visit the handicrafts of the world, where you might find some affordable souvenirs to take home. The fair runs from 10 am to 7 pm weekdays and 9:30 am to 7 pm Saturdays, Sundays and holidays. On May 7^th the Fair is open in the evening until 11 pm.

To get to the Foire de Paris, take the Metro to Metro stop Porte de Versailles. Then, just follow the crowd to the Convention Center's main gates. You can buy tickets at the gate or buy tickets in advance at several locations listed on the Foire de Paris website.

Final word about Paris in the spring: As I write, the temperature is beginning to improve, but spring is extremely unpredictable. It can range from warm and balmy to cold and drizzly. Bring a warm sweater and raincoat, but also sandals and sunwear for the good days (this holds true for June!).

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