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March 31, 2005

The Straight Poop on Accessible Airline Toilets

Sherry hadn't taken a vacation since her accident, but she was hopeful she could still travel in her wheelchair. Her sister convinced her to give it a try and together they planned a winter beach getaway to Florida. She was relieved when the airline reservation agent told her there was an accessible bathroom on the airplane, but horrified when she actually saw it.

Sherry recalls, "My sister usually helps me transfer, and the on-board bathroom just wasn't big enough for both of us. In the end I couldn't use it. I couldn't believe that tiny room was actually classified as an accessible lavatory!"

Sherry isn't alone. Many travelers discover the real truth about accessible airline toilets the hard way. How does this happen? To better answer that question, lets take a look at what the law has to say on this subject.

Under the Air Carrier Access Act (ACAA) all twin aisle US aircraft built after 1992 are required to have at least one accessible lavatory. The law further requires the accessible lavatory to include a door lock, an accessible call button and grab bars. There are no specifications about the height or placement of the grab bars or the toilet. In place of those specifications are performance standards.

In other words the regulations describe the access in non-architectural terms. Instead of stating that the toilet shall be a certain height and there shall be a certain amount of space in the lavatory, the regulations merely state, "This lavatory shall permit a qualified individual with a disability to enter, maneuver within as necessary to use all lavatory facilities and leave, by means of the aircraft's on-board wheelchair."

These performance standards are ambiguous at best, and I guess somebody could argue that if they can't use the lavatory then it's not accessible. However that's not the issue here. The issue is, how the airlines interpret these regulations and what features you can realistically expect to find in an on-board accessible lavatory.

In practice, most airlines interpret the regulations to mean there should be enough room for a wheelchair-user to perform an unassisted front transfer to the toilet from the on-board wheelchair. Space is at a premium and you won't find any 5X5 turn-around spaces in on-board accessible lavatories.

There are suggested guidelines for on-board accessible lavatories; however they are only suggested, and not required. The airlines can choose to follow the suggested guidelines or opt to adopt their own architectural standards that fall within the parameters of the performance standards in the ACAA. In short, an airborne accessible lavatory is not the same roomy model you'll find on the ground.

As far as US airlines go, Continental Airlines has some roomier-than-average accessible lavatories on their 777s. These accessible lavatories are 45 inches wide and 35 inches deep. Granted, after the fixtures are installed it's a bit tight; with only 23 inches in front of the toilet and 21 inches on the side of the toilet. Still, compared to other domestic configurations it's pretty roomy. The doors open out and the doorways are approximately 23 inches wide. Not huge, but wide enough to accommodate an on-board wheelchair.

Even though you'll find the best lavatory access on twin aisle aircraft; some carriers, such as Continental and Air Canada, have also made efforts to make their single aisle aircraft lavatories more accessible. These lavatories are still the standard airline-size; but in most cases the floor space can be increased by closing the privacy curtains which block off the aisle in front of the lavatory.

This extra space allows wheelchair-users a little more room for a front transfer to the toilet from the on-board wheelchair. The additional room is helpful for some people, but in most cases you still need to be able to walk a few steps in order to use lavatories on single aisle aircraft.

So which airline boasts the largest accessible lavatory? Hands-down, that honor goes to Singapore Airlines (SIA) with accessible lavatories measuring in at a spacious 56 inches wide by 41 inches deep. According to a SIA spokesperson, three-quarters of SIA's medium and long-haul fleet (including flights to the US) are equipped with these roomy accessible lavatories.

Access varies from carrier to carrier; so check with the airline directly before whipping out your wallet. Ask for specific measurements, and never settle for a blanket proclamation that there is "an accessible lavatory" on-board.

Another good resource is www.seatguru.com, a website which contains seating diagrams for a number of airlines. Although Seat Guru does not address access issues, in most cases you can tell from the seating diagram if the lavatory is larger than the standard size.

The bottom line is, all accessible airline lavatories are not created equal. Remember, the term "accessible" has a wide range of interpretations; especially where on-board lavatories are concerned.

A recognized expert on accessible travel, Candy is the editor of Emerging Horizons and the author of Barrier-Free Travel; A Nuts and Bolts Guide for Wheelers and Slow Walkers. She also shares insights, information and industry updates about accessible travel on her Barrier Free Travels blog. Candy can be contacted at Candy at EmergingHorizons dot com.

Posted by Court at 12:03 PM

The Disabled Traveler and Airport Security

With heightened security measures now in place at airports across the US, most travelers have to arrive earlier, say their good byes at check-in and make sure they don't have any sharp objects in their carry-on baggage. But do the new security measures actually take the needs of passengers with disabilities under consideration? Fortunately they do; but as with all access-related issues, some advance planning is necessary.

Initially the biggest concern for wheelchair-users was the elimination of curbside check-in. Fortunately, this ban has been lifted at many airports, and on many airlines, so check with your airline directly regarding this restriction. In the absence of curbside check-in, airline employees are available to assist passengers with disabilities. Contact your airline directly if you require curbside assistance.

Additionally, it's a good idea to remember that security conditions can change frequently. Be prepared for curbside check-in to be discontinued in times of heightened security.

On the other hand, you aren't required to transfer to an airport wheelchair at curbside. As one frequent traveler put it, "As an independent wheelchair-user, I don't want to pushed around in an unfamiliar airport wheelchair and loose my independence. I don't mind giving up my wheelchair right before boarding, but I don't want to give up my $4000 wheelchair at the curb."

If that's your concern, rest assured, as you can't be compelled to accept wheelchair assistance at the curb. In fact, under the Air Carrier Access Act (ACAA), most wheelchair-users can remain in their own wheelchairs all the way to the door of the aircraft. The only exception is if your wheelchair has a spillable battery. In that case you must turn your wheelchair over to airline personnel at least one hour before the flight.

Another area of concern regarding airport security is the prohibition of non-ticketed passengers beyond security checkpoints. Again, accommodations have been made for disabled passengers who travel with an aide, attendant or companion.

Says Ron Pettit of Northwest Airlines, "In such cases, the passenger and escort should contact a customer service agent at the ticket counter to obtain a gate pass for the escort. We will verify photo identification of all escorts, and in cases of arriving passengers, check to ensure special assistance was noted in the passenger's reservation." Other US airlines have similar policies regarding non-ticketed escorts for passengers with disabilities. Contact your airline directly to find out how to obtain a security checkpoint pass.

All passengers now face higher security measures and longer lines at airports, however wheelchair-users can expect even closer scrutiny at security checkpoints. The Transportation Security Administration (TSA) is responsible for security screening at all US airports. As a federal agency the TSA is not subject to ACAA regulations; however the agency has developed guidelines for passengers with disabilities and trained their employees to follow specific procedures.

Allow plenty of extra time to get through security, especially if you wear a prosthesis or use any type of assistive device. If you prefer not to go through the metal detector or be handwanded, you can request a pat-down search.

Prosthetic devices do not have to be removed for screening; however the screener will manually inspect the device and swab it for trace explosive residue. Canes and walkers are allowed through security checkpoints, but they will be inspected thoroughly by security personnel.

If you feel the security screening process is too intrusive, passengers with a disability may request a private screening. A personal assistant may accompany you during a private screening and you may request a chair. You will be offered the option of a private screening before the beginning of any pat-down inspection that requires the removal or lifting of clothing in order to inspect a medical device; however you can request a private screening at any time.

Sharp objects or anything that could be used as a weapon will be confiscated at security checkpoints. Jane Cox of Continental Airlines advises wheelchair-users to stow their wheelchair repair tools in their checked baggage, instead of in their carry-ons. The TSA claims they allow tools to adjust prosthetic devices through security checkpoints, however I've received reports to the contrary from several passengers. Regulations seem to vary from airport to airport, so it's best to err on the side of caution and stow tools in checked luggage whenever possible.

Syringes are allowed through security checkpoints upon inspection. Although not required, it's best to bring a doctor's note when carrying syringes in an airport. All prescription medications should be labeled and in their original containers.

In the end, patience is really the keyword for dealing with security; however if you feel your needs as a passenger with a disability are not being adequately addressed, ask to speak to a screening supervisor. In most cases TSA personnel are happy to oblige special requests for disabled passengers as long as those requests are reasonable and presented in a respectful manner. Never demand anything or yell at a security screener, as that's a sure-fire way to miss your plane.

For more information about security screening procedures for people with disabilities visit the TSA website. This comprehensive resource is updated regularly when security regulations and screening procedures change.

Posted by Court at 12:03 PM

On Safari

Have you ever dreamed about taking an African safari, but put it out of your mind because you just assumed safaris were not wheelchair-accessible? Well, pack your bags and get ready for an adventure, because believe it or not, there are a large number of safari operators who actually specialize in wheelchair-accessible safaris.

Many of these operators have vehicles that you can roll-on to, and luxury tent accommodations with roll-in showers. Some operators specialize in Kenya and Tanzania while others focus entirely on South Africa. Additionally some private reserves even have accessible accommodations and safari vehicles. Prices and itineraries vary, but the good news is, there are many providers to choose from. Here's a roundup of companies that offer accessible safari options.

Eco-Adventure International is a US-based adventure travel company that works with a number of African safari outfitters to provide accessible safari adventures in South Africa and Tanzania. The safaris are operated in lift-equipped vehicles. Safaris in South Africa feature accommodations ranging from small bungalows to portable safari tents which feature level access and roll-in showers. The lodgings in Tanzania are a bit more rugged, not totally accessible but do-able with assistance for many manual wheelchair-users.

Southern Cross Safaris was established in 1957, however they only recently began providing accessible Kenya safaris. In fact this African-based outfitter modified their existing facilities and vehicles to accommodate a wheeler guest. As a result they now have two ramped safari vehicles and accessible accommodations at their tented safari camp in Tsavo East.

Green Leopard Safaris specializes in accessible Kenya safaris. This local outfitter can provide everything from oxygen and hospital beds to attendant care and medical supplies on their customized safaris. They have two lift-equipped safari vehicles and wheelchair-users can either transfer to a seat or remain in their own wheelchair for game drives. Overnight accommodations are provided in a modified tent camp which features accessible tents with private bathrooms and roll-in showers.

Endeavour Safaris provides accessible safaris in Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, Mozambique and South Africa. Game drives are conducted in a ramped Toyota Landcruiser. Wheelchair-users can stay in their own wheelchair or transfer to a vehicle seat. Overnight accommodations are provided in accessible tents with ensuite bathrooms (toilets). The tents have level access, plenty of room to maneuver a wheelchair and wheelchair-height beds. Overnight accommodations are also available at hotels and lodges, but the tent camp is the most accessible option. Attendant care services are also available.

Epic Enabled provides accessible safaris in South Africa in their lift-equipped Mercedes Benz overland truck. Group participation is encouraged (meaning that everyone lends a hand with camp chores) and as a result Epic Enabled passes on the cost savings to their customers. A combination of tented camps, cottages and bungalows are used while on safari, all of which are accessible.

Flamingo Tours offers a variety of accessible South African tours to the Western Cape, Namaqualand, the Garden Route and Kruger National Park. Their customized safari tours feature accessible accommodations in hotels, lodges and private game reserves. They can also arrange for medical equipment rental while on safari.

And last but not least, there's Mala Mala Game Reserve, a private game reserve which shares a common border with Kruger National Park. Overnight accommodations are available in an accessible suite complete with ramps, wide doorways, wheelchair-height furniture and a bathroom with a roll-in shower. Game drives are conducted in open 4-wheel drive vehicles. Wheelchair-users can either transfer to the front seat or remain in their own wheelchair in the back of the vehicle. The accessible facilities at Mala Mala Game Reserve were designed with the assistance of the Quadriplegic Association of South Africa.

Posted by Court at 12:01 PM

Consider Public Transportation

As the editor of a magazine about accessible travel, I spend a good deal of time on the road; ferreting out specific access details on hotels, airports, tourist attractions, restaurants and local transportation. I also talk with a lot of travelers, and hear the good, the bad and the ugly about their travel experiences.

Interestingly enough, although many folks spend a good amount of time planning the logistics of air travel, or looking for a hotel that meets their access needs; they give very little thought to ground transportation.

Additionally, public transportation is rarely considered as an accessible travel option. Think about it, did you take public transportation (or even consider it) on your last trip? Well, if you're like most people, your probably didn't; however you can change that on your next vacation. Using public transportation when you travel can save you both time and money; however, like all things access-related it requires some pre-trip research. Here are some tips to help you along the way.

Big cities are usually the best candidates for accessible public transportation systems. In fact, in many large cities, like San Francisco and Boston, it's easier (and cheaper) to take public transportation than to drive.

Ask about parking charges when you book your hotel room. Sometimes these fees can be as much as $20 per day (extra), which makes public transportation even more attractive.

Use the Project Action database to locate accessible buses, trains and light rail systems in the US. Find your destination city in their Accessible Travelers Database, then contact the local transit system directly for access information.

Many transit systems also have print or on-line access guides or maps of their accessible transit routes. If you can't find this information on-line, call the local transit authority and ask about it.

Familiarize yourself with the accessible bus and train routes and try to find a hotel near a bus or metro stop. City center hotels are usually more expensive, so if you want to save a few bucks, look for a hotel outside the city center but near public transportation. Check to make sure the attractions you want to visit are also near public transportation.

Familiarize yourself with subway or metro routes and consider alternate stops. Many of these lines are accessed by elevators and you need to have a back-up plan in case the elevators are out of service at your destination station. You might have to get off at the next stop and take a bus.

Don't forget about airport transportation. Find out if your hotel has a free airport shuttle. Under the ADA, US hotels that offer courtesy transportation must also provide free accessible transportation.

Find out if there is a local rail or metro station at the airport, and if it stops close to your hotel. Contact the public transportation authority to find out if it is accessible. Many airports, like Ronald Regan airport in Washington DC, offer convenient and affordable metro service.

For updated information on accessible transportation, contact the Center For Independent Living in your destination city. Nobody knows how to get around better than the locals.

Supplement bus and metro transportation with taxis, especially at night. Many cab companies now have at least some accessible vehicles in their fleet. Ask your concierge about the local availability of accessible taxis.

Finally, no matter what type of transportation you choose, take a cell phone with you when you travel. It comes in handy when you're curbside, waiting for that long-delayed hotel shuttle. It sure beats trekking back to the terminal to find a phone!

Posted by Court at 11:59 AM

Accessible Travel Resources

Access to Travel
Developed by Transport Canada, this comprehensive website includes information about accessible transportation throughout Canada.

Accessible Air Travel
The on-line version of the United Spinal Association's very popular book about access aboard US airlines.

Air Carrier Access Act
The complete text of the Air Carrier Access Act (14 CFR Part 382).

Airport Security Information
DOT Fact Sheet regarding heightened security and the civil rights of people with disabilities.

Amtrak
Information about access on Amtrak, America's national rail carrier.

Barrier-Free Travel; A Nuts and Bolts Guide for Wheelers and Slow Walkers
The definitive guide to accessible travel. This book covers the logistics of planning accessible travel by plane, train, bus and ship. Website also includes a sample chapter with tips about how to protect your wheelchair when flying.

Barrier-Free Travels
A blog on accessible travel by Candy Harrington, the editor of Emerging Horizons. Featuring travel industry updates, personal commentary and new travel resources for wheelchair-users and slow walkers.

Canadian Transportation Act
The text of the Canadian Transportation Act, the access law that governs all Canadian airlines.

Emerging Horizons
Magazine about accessible travel. Website is updated frequently and contains many helpful resources.

Everybody's Airline Directory
Worldwide airline list which contains policies and procedures for passengers with disabilities.

NICAN Database
A searchable database which contains access information on lodgings and disability organizations throughout Australia.

Project Action Database
Maintained by the Easter Seals Society this website contains their excellent "national accessible travelers' database". The database includes information on accessible transportation throughout the US, including taxis, buses, hotel shuttles and airport transportation.

Renting Cars With Hand Controls
A non-commercial site which contains helpful "real life" advice about renting adapted vehicles. Many US and European resources are listed.

Tripscope
This UK non-profit provides information about accessible ground transportation throughout Britain.

TSA Security Information
Tips and information from the TSA regarding security screening procedures for people with disabilities at US airports. Details about what you can take through security and how you will be searched are included. This comprehensive website is updated regularly as the rules and regulations change.

VIA Rail
Information about access on VIA Rail, Canada's national rail carrier.

Posted by Court at 11:46 AM

The Truth About On-Line Booking

Nobody is ambivalent about the internet. Some folks claim it's the greatest thing since sliced bread, while others blame it for the downfall of modern society. Regardless of your feelings about the internet, it's a great tool for travel junkies. But is on-line booking a realistic option for wheelchair-users? Is it really the best way to get a good deal? The answer is a conditional yes. In reality there isn't a one-click method; but you can use the internet to save money and to ensure appropriate access.

Let's start with airfares. Airline websites and travel portals are the best places to book air tickets on-line if you have access needs. Shop around, find the best fare, then book on-line. Most of the major websites even have places on their booking forms to specify your access needs, such as wheelchair-assistance, accessible seating or an on-board wheelchair. After you've made your reservation, call the airline to make sure your access requests are noted.

It's a pretty easy process, however there is one type of website you need to avoid -- the auction or name-your-price website. These websites go by many different names and are promoted by scads of celebrities, but collectively I call them pig-in-a-poke.coms.

At pig-in-the-poke.coms you enter your departure city and your destination along with your credit card number. Then you state how much you are willing to pay for the ticket. Finally, you receive a response indicating if you bid has been accepted. Once your bid is accepted, your credit card is immediately charged.

The catch is, you can't chose the carrier, routing, aircraft or even the time of day you travel. In fact, you don't find out these details until after your bid is accepted and your credit card is charged. Although this process may be acceptable for travelers who don't have access needs, it's a big gamble for anybody who does, as these factors can determine the accessibility of the flight. So just say no when it comes to pig-in-the-poke.coms

Of course, there's a lot more to travel than just booking an airline ticket. It's also possible to book an accessible room on-line, but only if you know what websites to avoid. Hotel consolidators top the bad boys list. Why?

Well, first off hotel consolidators only treat reservations for accessible rooms as requests for accessible rooms; however more importantly the reservations are held in the consolidator's name (not the traveler's name) until approximately 24 to 48 hours prior to the traveler's arrival.

In other words if you were to call the hotel directly to confirm your reservation (and to make sure an accessible room is blocked for you) in most cases your name would not even be on file. Consolidators book blocks of accessible rooms, and specific rooms are not assigned to travelers until the last minute. In most cases travelers get pot luck.

Worse yet, when you discover this fact and realize that in all likelihood you won't end up with an accessible room, you can't cancel without paying a substantial cancellation fee (which of course is automatically charged to your credit card). So basically, you pay in advance but you aren't guaranteed anything. Not exactly a fair deal, is it?

How do you spot a hotel consolidator? It's pretty easy. They all require prepayment with a credit card and most have pretty stiff cancellation fees.

On the other hand, many travel portals offer a professional interface that enables users to book accessible rooms on-line. The major advantage of using a professional interface on a travel portal is that you deal directly with the hotel. You request a reservation, the request goes to the hotel, and you get a confirmation number back; all within a matter of seconds.

The downside to all this is that sometimes it's hard to tell a travel portal with a professional interface from a hotel consolidator just by looking at the on-line booking form. Both forms ask you for the same information. There are however two big differences. One is that, aside from a no-show fee, you won't encounter a cancellation fee when using a professional interface. And two, when you use a professional interface, you don't have to pay the hotel charges in advance.

The best way to book an accessible room on-line is to make a reservation directly on the hotel's website. Why? Because you can be assured you are dealing directly with the property. After you make your reservation on-line, call the hotel and confirm the access details of your reservation.

In the end if you shop around, watch for sales and stay away from travel consolidators and pig-in-the-poke.coms, you'll probably find some good deals on-line. But remember, you need to follow up every on-line reservation with a call to the hotel or airline to confirm you access requests. Yes, it takes a little longer, but it's the only way to make sure your access needs are met. In reality, the internet is great tool for travelers; but remember, it's not the only tool.

Posted by Court at 11:46 AM

Finding An Accessible Room

Even though the Americans With Disabilities Act (ADA) was passed over a decade ago, many wheelchair-users still have trouble finding an accessible hotel room. The key is knowing the right questions to ask. It would be an easy task if all accessible rooms had certain standard amenities, but that's not the way it works in real life. In reality, accessibility standards vary from property to property; and in fact are dependent on the construction or remodel date, the location, and the size of the property. Two properties located right next door to one another may have vastly different accessibility standards.

To add to the confusion, many reservation clerks assume that their "accessible rooms" are the one-size-fits-all solution for every traveler. The results are disastrous, and many novice travelers end up in "ADA compliant" rooms that don't meet their needs. So what's a traveler to do? Well, of course there are no 100% guarantees in life, but a little advance planning mixed with a healthy dose of self advocacy goes a long way towards finding the appropriate room. Here are a few helpful tips.

Never just ask for an "accessible room". Accessibility standards vary throughout the US, resulting in a very broad definition of the term "ADA compliant room". Outside of the US it gets more complicated. For example in Europe, an "accessible room" features an accessible route of travel but offers no specific amenities; while an "adapted room" contains a bathroom, shower and toilet that are adapted to comply with access standards.

Remember, in Europe the first floor is not at street level. If you want a room at street level, ask for a room on the ground floor. If you can't book a ground floor room, make sure the property has an elevator.

In the US, look for properties constructed after 1992. The Americans With Disabilities Act took effect in 1992 and properties constructed after this date usually have better access.

Always call the property directly. On-site reservation agents often have first-hand knowledge about access features at their property.

Ask the reservation agent to describe the access features of the room. Remember that the term "ADA complaint" means very little, so ask for specific information on access features. If there is a particular feature that is important to you, ask about that feature specifically.

Not all accessible rooms have roll-in showers (also called level entry, no hob or no rim showers in Europe). If you need a room with a roll-in shower, specify that fact when you make your reservation. If you just reserve an "accessible room", you will probably end up with a bathroom with a tub/shower combination.

Don't be afraid to ask for measurements. If door width is a concern, ask for that measurement. Don't forget about the door width of interior (bathroom) doors too.

Avoid yes or no questions. For example, ask the clerk to describe the bathroom, rather than asking if the bathroom is accessible. Be especially careful about asking yes or no questions in the Orient, as many customer service employees consider it rude to answer a question (any question) with a "no".

Ask the reservation agent to fax you a floor plan of the accessible room(s). This will give you the dimensions of the room, but remember that access can vary depending on the placement of furniture. More and more properties now have floor plans on hand, and many are willing to fax these to potential guests.

If fatigue is a factor, request a room near the elevator or in the main building.

If you have difficulty determining if a room will suit your needs, ask to speak to somebody who has recently been in the room. Employees in the housekeeping or engineering departments usually have a good knowledge of access features of the individual rooms.

Remember to ask the reservation agent if the accessible room can be blocked for you. If the answer is "no" or "usually", then find another hotel. Many hotels do not block accessible rooms, but instead treat this item as a customer request (like a smoking room or an ocean view room). Remember, even the most accessible room in the world won't work for you, if that room isn't available when you arrive at the hotel.

Finally, if a reservation agent gives you ambiguous answers or sounds inept, call back later or contact a different property. Always trust your instincts!

Posted by Court at 11:46 AM

Home Exchanging Makes Good "Cents"

Home exchanging is not a new idea; in fact, it's been a popular practice in Europe for decades. Today the popularity of this money saving practice is moving across the Atlantic and catching on in North America. The good news is that home exchanging is the ideal solution for people who need accessible holiday accommodations. In fact, it kills two birds with one stone, as home exchanging is an accessible and affordable holiday option.

The principles behind home exchanging are pretty simple. The idea is to find somebody with a lifestyle similar to yours, in another part of the country or world. Then the two of you exchange homes; you both live in each other's house while you are on holiday. It's an even exchange, so both exchangees pocket the money they would have spent on other lodging arrangements.

The benefits of home exchanging are obvious. If you have made some accessibility modifications to your own home, then it just makes sense to find another person like you, who has made similar modifications to their home. So, where do you look for a home exchange partner? The internet is a good place to start, as it offers many accessible home exchange resources.

Vacation Home Swap Bulletin Board
This free resource contains accessible vacation home exchange listings from around the world. Visitors can browse through the listings, do a keyword search or add their own home to the growing collection. This excellent resource is maintained by the Institute on Independent Living in Stockholm, Sweden.

Home Exchange.com
This listing service devotes an entire section to accessible homes. Although this new section is small, it's growing in popularity! You can view all the listings for free, but there is a charge to list your home on this site.

Invented City
This listing service publishes an on-line vacation home exchange directory. To search for accessible homes, click on "detailed search" and then select "disabled access." This is a fee-based service, however you can browse the listings for free (without contact info). There is a charge to view the whole directory, or to have your listing included in the directory.

Exchange Homes
This company publishes on-line and hard copy vacation home exchange directories. Accessible homes are clearly listed. There is a fee for the directory.

Consider a home exchange for your next holiday. This tried and true European idea offers big monetary savings, plus the comfort and freedom of real accessibility.

Posted by Court at 11:46 AM

Budget Lodging Options

Is it really possible to travel on a budget? Well of course, that depends on your budget. Seriously though, it never hurts to stretch your travel dollar; and the best way to do that is to rein in those ever escalating lodging costs. According to PKF Consulting, hotel rates in the top 50 hotel markets in the US are projected to rise 4.7% in 2005. The good news is, it's still possible to find lodging that's both affordable and accessible. So let's take a look at a few budget lodging options.

First stop -- hostelling; an idea which first gained popularity in the 1970s as an inexpensive way for young people to see the world. Today hostels are open to travelers of all ages, and many hostels are nicely accessible. Some properties, like Hostelling International's (HI) Fisherman's Wharf Hostel, have even upgraded their accessible rooms.

Says Fisherman's Wharf Hostel manager Rick Young, "We sought input from a number of local disability organizations during the construction of our accessible wing. It took a little longer, but it was well worth the effort." The renovated wing features an accessible kitchen, a bathroom with a roll-in shower and two dorm rooms. It's very nicely done. The location is hard to beat too, with a great view of the Golden Gate Bridge.

Accessible hostels are not limited to the US, as I've seen excellent access at hostels in Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Access varies from hostel to hostel, so contact each property directly for detailed access information. Some hostels even feature family rooms with private bathrooms. For more information visit HI on-line at www.hihostels.com.

The YMCA is another budget lodging option that is often overlooked by disabled travelers. Although sometimes grouped with hostels, most Ys also offer on-site recreational facilities such as swimming pools and weight rooms.

Although access varies from site to site, properties that offer accessible rooms usually have access to their recreational facilities as well. For example, the Salisbury YMCA in Hong Kong not only has four accessible guest rooms, but it also has wheelchair-access to one of their swimming pools. Visit www.ymca.net to search the worldwide directory of Ys, then inquire directly with each property to determine their level of access.

On the more traditional side, many hotel chains, such as Microtel and Motel 6, offer accessible rooms at reasonable rates. Microtel gets the highest marks for consistent access, as all Microtel properties are constructed from the ground up with access in mind. Their goal is to be the preferred motel chain for travelers with disabilities. So far they've done a great job. Visit the Microtel website at www.microtelinn.com for more information about their access features.

Motel 6 can also offer good access, but unfortunately they're not very consistent. When they're good, they're very, very good; but when they're bad, you have to almost be a contortionist to use the toilet. Most of their newly constructed (post ADA) properties are nicely accessible, so look for properties constructed after 1992. Their remodeled properties are access nightmares, so make sure and ask a lot of questions before you book a room. Visit www.motel6.com to request a free Motel 6 directory.

And if your travels take you across the Big Pond, you can't beat Premier Travel Inns for access and value in the United Kingdom. Says Ann Litt of Undiscovered Britain, "All Premier Travel Inns have at least a couple of adapted rooms which have wide doorways, grab bars, adapted bathrooms and low rise tubs. They're not luxury properties, but they are clean, affordable and accessible." For more information visit www.travelinn.co.uk.

Of course, you can always look to the great outdoors for some budget lodging options. If that's your choice, don't leave home without your Golden Access Passport, a free lifetime pass available to any US resident with a permanent disability. Pass holders get free admission to all US national parks and a 50% discount on campsites. For more information about the Golden Access Passport, contact your local Bureau of Land Management, or pick up your own Golden Access Passport at any national park entrance.

Last but not least, check out the Bonfils-Stanton Outdoor Center in Winter Park, Colorado. Operated by the National Sports Center for the Disabled, Bonfils-Stanton features accessible nature trails, fishing and picnic areas and an accessible campground with raised platforms. The campground is open from May 29 to September 30. There is no charge for camping but advance reservations are required. For more information visit www.nscd.org.

Posted by Court at 11:46 AM

Air Travel Tips for Wheelers And Slow Walkers

Travel by its very nature is an adventure. Factor a disability into that equation and things can get pretty scary. One of the biggest areas of concern for disabled travelers is air travel. People just don't know what to expect. But it doesn't have to be that way. In fact, a little consumer education can give you the confidence and knowledge to effectively deal with problems as they arise. With that in mind, here's some tips to help you along the way.

Before You Fly

Educate yourself on the Air Carrier Access Act (ACAA). Get the free publication, "Accessible Air Travel" from the United Spinal Association at (800)444-0120.

Travel on a US based airline whenever possible, as the entire ACAA applies only to US carriers. If you must travel on a foreign carrier, learn the access laws of that country too.

Ask a lot of questions before you book your flight. Under the ACAA, US airlines are required to provide prospective passengers with basic information about the accessibility of their facilities, services, and aircraft. Such information can include facts like the location of seats with movable aisle armrests, the locations and dimensions of storage facilities for mobility aids, and the availability of an onboard accessible lavatory.

Inform the reservation clerk if you need boarding assistance, or the use of an aisle chair. The aisle chair is a narrow high backed chair used to board non-ambulatory passengers.

Consider your toilet options and plan ahead. Accessible lavatories on aircraft are quite small and generally speaking you need to be able to transfer independently in order to use them. Airline staff will not assist you in the lavatory. If you use a catheter, devise a system for emptying your leg bag while en route.

Consider switching to gel cell batteries. Gel cell batteries are merely disconnected for air transport, while other batteries are removed and packaged separately. If you already have gel cell batteries, make sure they are clearly marked, so they won't be inadvertently removed.

Reconfirm all arrangements directly with the airline at least 48 hours in advance. Make sure they have all your access needs noted.

At The Airport

In times of heightened security, curbside check-in may be discontinued. Check with your airline and airport to determine if this service is available. If curbside check-in has been discontinued, inform your airline that you need curbside assistance.

Advise the customer service agent at the check-in counter if you need to have a non-ticketed escort accompany you to the gate. Your escort will be asked for photo identification and then given a security checkpoint pass.

Allow plenty of extra time to get through security. All sharp objects, or anything that could be used as a weapon will be confiscated at security checkpoints. Carry your wheelchair repair tools in your checked baggage.

Advise the gate agent that you would like to preboard the aircraft. Under the ACAA your assistive device will only get priority space in the onboard closet if you preboard the aircraft.

Stay in your own wheelchair until you transfer to the airline aisle chair. Airline personnel may try to get you to transfer to an airline wheelchair at check-in or at curbside, but you are not required to do this unless you have batteries that need to be removed and packaged separately (spillable batteries). Gate-check your wheelchair, and have it brought directly to you at your arrival gate.

Attach clear assembly and disassembly instructions (in Spanish and English) to your wheelchair or scooter.

Remove any loose or protruding parts from your wheelchair or scooter. Protect your joystick with some type of hard covering. A plastic cup and packing tape works well.

Let a little bit of air out of your wheelchair tires. Carry-on all gel cushions. Baggage compartments are not pressurized.

During The Flight

Let the flight attendant know if you need to use the onboard wheelchair.

Remind the flight attendant 30 minutes before landing that your wheelchair needs to be delivered to you at the gate.

If Problems Arise

Ask to speak to the Complaints Resolution Officer (CRO). The CRO is trained and educated on travelers' rights and airline responsibilities under the ACAA. All US airlines are required to have a CRO on duty 24 hours a day.

The US Department of Transportation operates a toll-free aviation consumer disability hotline at (866)266-1368. Travelers are invited to call this hotline to obtain information and assistance if they should experience disability-related air service problems.

Posted by Court at 11:46 AM

March 28, 2005

Greek Haricot Bean Soup

You will need:

150g medium or small white haricot beans
3 large tomatoes, chopped
2 medium onions, sliced
1 red pepper, sliced
1 green pepper, sliced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1.5 litres lightly salted vegetable stock or 1 large stock cube with water (or more - depends how soupy you want it)
a little olive oil for the onions
1 tablespoon tomato concentrate
optional: a glass of dry red wine
a teaspoon of sugar if the tomatoes are too acid.

Soak beans overnight in lots of water in a bowl, then drain water and rinse beans.

Cook onions, peppers and garlic in a little oil until onions are soft, then add all the other ingredients. Cook slowly for 1 - 1 1/2 hours, or until beans are soft.

This is yummy, easy to make (if a little time-consuming), and you can make it on the road if your camping gaz cylinder will last you long enough...

Posted by Court at 12:24 PM

March 25, 2005

Red Lentil Soup

A real winter warmer, this one, but also great in the summer.

You will need:

2 large tomatoes, sliced
1 leek, chopped
2 medium onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1.5 litres vegetable stock
100-150g red lentils
1 tablespoon tomato concentrate.
a little olive oil

Put the onions,leeks and garlic into a pan with a little oil, cook until soft. Add the other ingredients, stir from time to time, and cook slowly for about half an hour, or until the lentils are tender (make sure they are tender). Blend about 3/4 of the soup, but retain the last 1/4, and add the blended mixture to the remaining soup, stir a bit and heat through for about another five minutes.

Posted by Court at 04:05 PM

TEFL Teaching From a Teacher's Perspective

I started TEFL teaching in 1992 and never have regretted it. It has given me the chance to travel and to spend long enough in any country to get to know at least something about the people's way of life and their culture.

So, what are the good points and the pitfalls of TEFL teaching? Let's begin with the reasons why people take up this kind of teaching: to travel, and because they like it. Why they take up travel is another point, and I think there is no one reason; everyone has their reasons. Some simply want to broaden their mind and see the world, others want to escape the nine-to-five boredom of the country they are living in, a third group don't know what they want to do, even more can't find a job in the country they come from, a further group love teaching and want to do it in a different location, and a few are recovering from a disastrous love affair or marriage. The list is endless, and the differing personalities of people who enter this trade/game, depending on your perspective, are also as varied. My personal reasons are not important here.

Now I am going to divide the types of teacher. I am not trying to make labels, just make it easier for people to see the choice and decide what option to take. I divide them into "Security conscious" and "Gung-ho adventurous."

Security Conscious
How do you go about it? It depends what you want. I suggest that everyone do a TEFL course of some description, and get that under your belt because then you have a stronger bargaining counter with schools, and other people such as private students. But in many places you don't have to have a TEFL qualification, and it largely depends if you want to take a chance. The trouble with courses is that they are expensive.
Here is a list of points for those who want to increase their chances of getting a job teaching English, bearing in mind that attractive destinations are often the places where there is the fiercest competition between teachers.

You need at least a month to do a TEFL course - the intensive courses are one month, the part-time ones are six months, and it's recommended that if you go for a part-time one, you teach while you do it, and therein lies a vicious circle; you often can't get a job without the qualification - it depends on where you do the course. So I recommend the full-time one.

Many of the reputable TEFL courses are highly professional and practical. These are very hard work, however, and you have to be prepared to shoulder a lot of criticism - we call it 'teacher development', which it is, to soften the blow, and to show it's all done for the best possible reasons.

The main flaw in courses is that they are rather Euro/America-centric. After you have got your qualification, you will probably find yourself having to adapt to local conditions, and in some countries, you may have to abandon a lot of what you have learned because of the educational culture of that country. But bear in mind that the methodology taught provides you with useful basic tools for all classroom work, and 'adapt' is the motto.

To be a good TEFL teacher (for both security conscious and gung-ho)

Appear confident, even if you are not (and most of us aren't). Timidity goes straight out of the window, or you go out of the window, and that applies as much to adult teaching as to the teaching of say, teenagers or children, who you will probably also have to teach. A teacher can hide behind a lot of methodology, but personality of all kinds is important, too, whatever they tell you. You can be a quiet type or a lively type, for example, but you need to give the impression you know exactly what you are doing, and that takes confidence.

Don't have a chip on your shoulder about accents or other types of English than your own.

Genuinely love other countries and other peoples. No student likes to be told how awful their country is compared to Britain/America/Australia/wherever.

Love your language, without arrogance. There is nothing more inspiring to students than a teacher who really appreciates our highly idiosyncratic, vocabulary-rich and tense-rich language, mad prepositions, terrible phrasal verbs, and all. And if you don't know what I'm talking about, look up these terms before your interview on a TEFL course.

You don't have to be a grammarian to be a good teacher. But you must be willing to learn the grammar yourself, however, as you move through the levels, and be one step ahead of students at least.

Be aware of your own mistakes in the classroom and try to work on them.

Practicalities of legal teaching in many countries

If you want to work legally, then check up what the minimum requirements for being a TEFL teacher is. In the old days, it was sometimes enough just to be able to speak English, but many countries now require a lot more than that. For example, all European Union countries require the minimum of a University/College degree, and most prefer TEFL qualified people. There are many restrictions on American, Canadian and Australians teaching in the EU, and in some EU countries it is impossible to work there legally if you are from those countries. There are ways of twisting the rules. If you can convince the school director of a reputable school that you are a fabulous teacher, then they might suddenly have a brother or cousin in the bureaucracy willing to look for 'loopholes'
TEFL teaching is not somehow exempt from visa requirements, work permits, etc, unless you choose to work for a school that will overlook your dodgy tourist visa, lack of work permit etc. If the school doesn't a) either deal with the bureaucracy themselves on your behalf, or b) in countries such as Italy or China where you are personally required to be present, send you and a local working for the school to help deal with the bureaucracy, then the school is probably 'cowboy'. Sometimes, the bureaucratic red tape is depressing and hard work, (try teaching in Peru, for example), but it's much safer.
Always check the contract carefully, even if it's not worth the paper it's printed on. You mean business by this.

Gung-ho teacher (who I hope has read the above to acquaint himself with the options)

By definition, it's chancy. You may end up working for a good school, but it's more likely you'll end up working for an appalling one. There are still a large number of TEFL teachers working illegally, or 'moonlighting' in various countries, and they manage to survive, and thrive on it. Working for a cowboy school does have its advantages; its freedom, its 'adventuresomeness', the lack of concern for teacher welfare. The latter is seen by some as a happy alternative to places where you are expected to be 'developed', because you really are then treating teaching as 'just a job'. In some cases, you can leave when you like, or work for only three months here, three months there, etc. You might even be a 'natural', a seriously talented teacher who the students love, though you are still very much an amateur. Fair enough. But be aware of this fact: if you are working illegally, the employer can choose to exploit you mercilessly and then sack you, sometimes without payment. You have no redress in law to claim your money if you're an illegal worker. And are you really concerned about the welfare of the students of your host country if you keep leaving them every three months for somewhere else? Have a look at the boards on Dave's ESL Cafe for horror stories. They sometimes make very entertaining reading, but more often they make depressing reading, and they do not bode well for teachers in the cowboy side of the business. Even reputable schools get slammed there sometimes; though in the case of reputable schools, it's often (though not always) sour grapes. Not always. So, be aware.

There is another side to the business which can be quite lucrative, and even legal teachers do it. Private teaching, usually one-to-one. Some people supplement their meagre travelling budget this way, but you need to be a really good net-worker to have enough private students seriously to keep body and soul together, and private students often cancel lessons at a moment's notice.

Some people combine the security-conscious and gung-ho approaches.

There are some schools which use a Method, like the Berlitz or the Callan approach. I'm not going to condemn these, but by most accounts, they should be avoided. Berlitzsucks.com used to exist for a reason.

Whatever line you choose to take, you should be adaptable, resourceful, flexible and patient to be a good teacher. If you are impatient, forget teaching. Here are some more qualities useful for TEFL teaching: being a good actor, having excellent communication skills, knowing how to take the emphasis off yourself and onto the students (very tricky in countries like Japan, incidentally), loving travel.

To sum up: TEFL teaching is not an easy job, though it is interesting and can be great fun. It was once called the White Slave Trade by a cynical teacher. This is obviously an exaggeration, but it does need to be borne in mind. Be careful, even if you're using the gung-ho approach, if that doesn't sound like a contradiction in terms.

Posted by Court at 04:02 PM

Wine and Grape Sauce for Chicken or Pork

An adaptation of a French style of sauce, this is delicious with any kind of white meat.

You will need:

100g of butter
4 tablespoons plain flour
2 glasses of rose or white wine
10 large white grapes, depipped
lemon peel from one lemon, cut into strips and then cut up again
1 glass fresh salted chicken stock or 1.5 glasses of water with large chicken stock cube broken into it.

Lightly cook the lemon peel in very small amount of oil.

Put butter into pan, heat, melt. When it is melted, add plain flour and stir until it thickens into a roux; add the first glass of wine, stir, until it thickens again, add the lemon peel and the next glass of wine, stir again, add chicken stock, stir.

While this is cooking, you take your ten grapes and with some of the sauce (not too much), add to the blender and whizz. Then pour this mixture back into the sauce and stir.

After about another two or three minutes, you have a sauce. You might want to remove the lemon peel, as some people don't like eating this.

Posted by Court at 04:02 PM

March 23, 2005

Q and A with Casey Fenton of CouchSurfing

When Casey Fenton and his crew wanted to create a real-life community from a virtual one, they founded CouchSurfing, a site devoted to creating connections the world over by offering free places to stay.

What is "CouchSurfing" and why do people do it?
The CouchSurfing Project is an experiment in creating real life community from a virtual community. People are doing it because it is increasing the number of opportunities they have while traveling. It's about creating adventures to remember for a lifetime.

How do travelers use your site?
Generally speaking, the main idea of the website is for members to surf each other's couches. When someone surfs a couch, they are a guest at someone's house. The site goes deeper though. Once someone becomes a member of the this social network, they invariably become woven into the community. Members are able to make friends all over the globe. This seems to reverse the "figure out where you want to go and then find someone to surf with" model. Now people make friends all over the globe and then actually go visit them. It's our goal to maximize the number of opportunities our members have to meet each other. We've kept this in mind when designing the functionality behind this website.

What types of travelers use your site?
Passionate adventurers. People who want to see far off lands from a local's perspective. People who want to make genuine connections and/or friends for life. People who are curious about the world around themselves and don't always care to be on a pre-packaged tour.

How did you come up with the idea for CouchSurfing?
Well, the idea solidified when founder, Casey Fenton, got a cheap ticket to Iceland for a long weekend one April. With his ticket in hand, there was one problem: He had no place to stay and no desire to sit in a hotel all weekend and play Mr. Tourist. So, he came up with the 'brilliant' idea of spamming over 1500 Icelandic students in Reykjavik and asking them if he could crash on one of their couches. After exchanging emails with many of the students, he had many Icelanders offering to show him 'their' Reykjavik. So, after spending an amazing, crazy weekend just south of the Arctic Circle, never again would he get trapped into a hotel and tourist marathon while traveling. From that point onward, it was all about crashing on exotic couches. And, thus, CouchSurfing was born.

Is CouchSurfing a non-profit company? Is it a full or part-time project? How is is funded?
The CouchSurfing Project is a not-for-profit experiment in global social networking. It was created to help the founders meet some of the world's most interesting people. We're thrilled that it's helped members do the same thing. Currently it is more than a full-time project for the founders. The Project is funded by members donations.

What makes CouchSurfing different from Global Freeloaders and Hospitality Club?
While we think that they all serve their purposes, the CouchSurfing Project is a an experiment in creating offline community from a virtual community, not just a way for backpackers to find a free place to stay. More specifically, there are differences in the freshness of profiles, use of technology, and a member's ability to display their personality via their profile. To list some major technical differences, CS allows proximity searching (you can say, "Show me every couch within 50 km of Amsterdam." and it will find couches in other countries.), offers many security features, and allows members to associate themselves in groups with other members.

What are the best parts about CouchSurfing?
The devotion of its members to giving back to the community. Members seem to believe strongly in the cause and are willing to put in time and effort to see it succeed. There is a strong sense of community where everyone feels a part of an important experiment.

Anything else you'd like to add?
You're welcome to become a member of the community! :-)

Posted by Court at 11:54 AM

March 17, 2005

Submitting Articles to Theme Guides

When it comes to getting ready for a trip, more and more people turn to the Internet. However, with all the web sites out there, we at BootsnAll decided to put together a collection of resources that we call Theme Guides. Theme Guides are where travellers can find, all in one place, the resources and information they need to plan an upcoming trip.

Why should that matter to you? Because in addition to collections of links for various travel resources, we also include individual pieces and entire sections that come from some of the best travel resources anywhere: you.

Theme guides contain stories that aren't as geographically focused as regular BootsnAll travel stories, and that also are more informative, or anecdotal, or just bloody funny. Our writers have contributed stories on everything from understanding the Euro to laughing at stereotypical travellers to explaining the new trend in round-the-world trips. Plus, writers do not need to contribute on a regular basis.

What else do we look for in Theme Guide articles? Just a few things:

Title. Every story needs a title, so please provide one. Untitled stories are like unnamed children.

Photos are welcome and encouraged.

Length. We prefer stories that are under 3,000 words in length. If you have a longer story, consider breaking it up into a series of shorter articles.

Information. Articles published in Theme Guides need to give information. How doesn't matter. Some people outline the wisdom they've gained over years or decades of traveling; others do research and send in what they come up with; some just want to give the reader a laugh – but no matter how the writers go about it, these articles help the reader learn just a little something else about that particular aspect of travel.

Make sense? Ok, then you're ready to submit.

Posted by Chris at 04:20 PM

March 16, 2005

Q and A with Stacey Tearne of SpaceAdventures

Stacey Tearne works in marketing for Space Adventures, a space tourism company - one of the first entrants in the new market.

What is Space Adventures?

Space Adventures, the world's leading space experiences company, is the only company to have sent private citizens in space. The company also offers a full-range of spaceflight training from Zero-Gravity and supersonic jet flights to simulators of rocket launch/re-entry and space walks. For more information, please visit www.spaceadventures.com.

What kind of traveller seeks a trip with Space Adventures?

Most of our clients are the adventurous sort. Those who look beyond and who want to explore the final frontier. All humans have always had the desire to explore and learn - we need to inspire our children and our children's children to embrace the desire.

How do you see space travel growing in the future?

Years from now, we anticipate suborbital spaceflight to revolutionize aviation travel as we know it today. Flights from NYC to Tokyo could be 45 minutes instead of 14 hours.

Why should people travel to space now instead of waiting?

Why wait? Life is short, live today. Become a member of the now exclusive group of humans who have traveled to space. Less than 500 --- and out of that number, there have only been two paying customers.

What do you say to people who are concerned about safety issues?

We realize that there are risks involved with spaceflight and so do our clients. But, then again there are risks associated with everyday life -- crossing the street, driving, etc. Our clients have been transported to the International Space Station on the most reliable rocket ever created, the Soyuz. The suborbital vehicles will also be safe for commercial passengers, but there will always be risks involved.

Posted by Court at 02:34 PM

Q and A with Matt Harding of Wherethehellismatt?

Insta-travel-icon Matthew Harding went around the world in 2003, documenting his travels on Wherethehellismatt.com. His personal website contained notes and pictures about his travels, as well as a video of him dancing in different places around the world. The video made the internet rounds and was downloaded to thousands of computers across the globe.

How did you come up with the idea behind Wherethehellismatt?

I had a job in Brisbane, Australia for a few years and I reached the point where I'd had enough of it. I loved Australia, but I was sitting in front of a computer screen all day and I knew I needed a change. It was about time for me to head back to the States anyway, so I quit my job and decided to use the money I'd saved to take the long way home and buy a round-the-world ticket.

The web site was just a way to document the trip and keep my friends and family posted on what I was up to.

When did you decide to 'dance' in a list of places around the world?

I was in Vietnam with a friend of mine. I have a stupid dance that I do whenever I'm happy, or excited, or antsy, and on the spot my friend came up with the idea of having me stand in front of some passing motorbikes and do the dance while he filmed it. We did it and it looked pretty funny, so I kept doing it everywhere I went.

How did you decide on your dancing locations?

The dance was an afterthought -- just something I'd stop and do whenever I was in a place that seemed worth doing it at. I never went anywhere specifically to do the dance.

How did it become the popular 'must see' travel site?

A guy found it on my site and showed it to some friends. They put it up on their blogs, which led to more and more blogs. The link started showing up on sites like Metafilter, Fazed, and Somethingawful, which highlight randomly amusing stuff off the internet. From there people started passing the link around on email, it kept snowballing, and now I get a few thousand visitors a day downloading my video.

Do you have any plans to continue dancing around the world?

Absolutely. I'm looking for sponsorship right now and trying to figure out a way to keep adding to the video.

Posted by Court at 02:17 PM

Q and A with Adam Staines of Global Freeloaders

All travelers have wished, at one time or another, that they had a free place to crash. With Global Freeloaders, Adam Staines has created a site that allows travelers to sleep for free all over the world - but that's not the only thing GlobalFreeloading is about.

What is "GlobalFreeloading" and why do people do it?

GlobalFreeloading is about becoming part of a worldwide community that throw open their doors to other travelling members, offering up their spare bedrooms, beds or couches, to allow you to see different cultures from up close and personal...and you may just happen to save a few bucks on accommodation along the way.

People join GlobalFreeloaders because they realise they don't want to be tourists - been there, done that, got the photo to prove it. They want to be travellers. They want to experience everything a different culture has to offer, and they realise that it's difficult to do that while staying in a hotel or hostel, and not actually meeting any locals.

How do travellers use your site?

You register with the site, detailing the accommodation you can provide to other members within 6 months of registering. Then when you want to travel, you just pick a destination and date, see which members you'd like to stay with, write an introduction, and we fire off an email to the prospective hosts. You wait for replies, then sort out the finer details with the hosts.

What types of travellers use your site?

We get all sorts really. When I first launched the site, I naively thought that it may just entice younger backpackers, but the idea has been embraced by a far wider spectrum of travellers. Our members range between 18 and 80 years of age, from all walks of life. The only underlying theme that I can see is that we all enjoy meeting people.

How did you come up with the idea for Global Freeloaders?

I was once stuck for accommodation in Morocco, during a music festival. An extremely hospitable family overheard my plight and put me up for a week. I had the time of my life and learnt more about the culture in that single week, than I did in the remaining 2 months I spent in the country. I realised that during my travels I'd crashed on countless couches of people I barely knew, but shared some mutual acquaintance, and had often similarly accommodated almost complete strangers who happened to know a friend of a friend; so why not widen that circle, harnessing the power of the internet, and focus that communal travelling spirit into one portal?

Is Global Freeloaders a non-profit company? Is it a full or part-time project? How is is funded?

The site's a non-profit. I work on it part-time. The site is funded by donations from members, and from income generated from advertising.

What makes GlobalFreeloaders different from Couchsurfers and Hospitality Club?

Out of courtesy to the creators of those sites I haven't been past their respective homepages, so I'm probably not the person to ask. I prefer to do my own thing, and don't want to be accused of pinching ideas from others. Power to 'em though...they can only help the idea grow.

What are the best parts about Freeloading?

The people you meet, the places you see, the things you experience - all the best parts about travelling, or life, really. GlobalFreeloading gives you a toe-hold into cultures you may only otherwise have experienced as an 'outsider'.

Posted by Court at 01:56 PM

March 11, 2005

Why Do I Pay to Volunteer?

Crash Course in Volunteering Abroad:

In volunteering abroad there exist two types of organizations: local NGOs and volunteer service organizations.

Local NGOs (non-governmental organizations) are commonly small non-profits with a specific cause, such as running orphanages or building community centers. These organizations rarely have the funding required to recruit and support international volunteers themselves. To help recruit international volunteers, many local NGOs partner with volunteer service organizations.

Volunteer Service Organizations such as i-to-i, Global Volunteers, and Cross Cultural Solutions are for-profit or non-profit organizations who recruit, manage, and support international volunteers. Some international service organizations partner with hundreds of local NGOs, supplying a steady cycle of new volunteers. Most volunteer service organizations charge the volunteers a fee to volunteer through their organization.

Why can't I volunteer on my own?
Of course you can! Thousands of people volunteer independently of volunteer service organizations each year. For those more comfortable with international travel, independent volunteering is the perfect option. To volunteer abroad independently, simply travel to a country you visit and ask around. The trick is finding an organization you want to work for that is willing to accept you as a volunteer. It is the responsibility of the volunteer to organize housing, food, medical and travel insurance, and local transportation. While independent volunteering is the perfect option for some experienced travelers, most do not have the time or knowledge to organize everything themselves. For these people, volunteer service organizations are the perfect solution. For a fee volunteer service organizations organize, support, and guide volunteers through every aspect of their trip.

What am I paying for?
Administration
Volunteer service organizations employ a full time staff to build partnerships and recruit, support, and manage volunteers. The fee paid by volunteers covers a number of services and means that little to no costs are passed onto the local NGOs themselves.

Recruiting Volunteers:
Most local NGOs are unable to afford the cost of recruiting international volunteers. This cost includes advertising, brochures, and customer service for prospective volunteers. A portion of a volunteer's fee goes directly into maintaining this recruitment drive for the future.

Supporting Volunteers:
Many international volunteers have never traveled overseas. Volunteer service organizations provide a wide range of support to their volunteers including help with vaccinations, travel insurance, and fundraising.

Building Partnerships:
Volunteer service organizations build long term partnerships with reputable local NGOs and through these volunteers are given access to the local community in a way no unsupported volunteer could hope for. Global Citizen Network believes "while individuals may be able to travel for less to many of these places (we) provide the entrance into a village and exposure to a culture that one could not receive if traveling solo..."

Manage Volunteers:
The projects of local NGOs can take a single month to many years to complete. Short term volunteers rarely complete an entire project during their short stay. It is the role of volunteer service organizations to manage the flow of volunteers to and from projects. This management allows those with limited time to hit the ground running. Jim Hausler, a volunteer with Global Volunteers agrees, "Things are already set in motion and you pick up where the last team left off. Being part of one team in a series, part of a long-term commitment served by many teams, I realized that I was participating in something much bigger. It was perfect for me because only get a few weeks' vacation year".

Training and Orientation
Many projects require volunteers to have orientations and training in languages and/or special skills. A portion of the fee paid by volunteers goes towards this orientation and training when necessary. i-to-i even provides accredited TEFL courses to prepare volunteers in all placements where English language instruction is required.

Medical and Travel Insurance
Often, a volunteer's program fee is used to provide comprehensive medical and travel insurance. This gives both the volunteer and their family piece of mind that their health and safety are secure.

Food and Board
Volunteer service organization always arranges food and board for volunteers. Often volunteers are hosted by locals who are given a stipend to provide for the volunteer. The host families provide a safe and welcoming atmosphere for the volunteers.

Local Transport
Local transportation in a foreign country is intimidating, especially when you don't speak the language. Volunteer service organizations often arrange safe local transport to and from the airport and other destinations.

In-Country Support
Volunteer service organizations often employ in-country staff to provide local support and services during the volunteer's stay. This staff also provides a valuable safety net just in case something goes wrong.

The Project Itself
The most important use for the volunteer's fee is on the project itself. Program fees help fund the project itself, from school supplies to construction materials. With every new volunteer comes the funding to continue the project into the future.

Chris is the founder and director of ServeYourWorld. Currently he splits his time between working for ServeYourWorld and attaining a triple degree in political science, international studies and religious studies from the University of Miami. In his spare time he enjoys spending time with his fiancee Jenn.

Posted by Court at 04:53 PM

March 10, 2005

If you like X, then go to Y

If good wines are on the tip of your tongue, sashay your way to Italy.

If you like your culinary delights tastefully refined, smell your way to France.

If you want to break in your hiking boots, scale Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania.

If you have money to blow, court lady luck in Monaco.

If the rush of adrenaline gets you going, speed up your heart rate in Queenstown, New Zealand.

If you want your name in the history books, soar like an eagle to the top of Mount Everest in Nepal.

If the Bible, the Koran or the Torah sits next to your bed, practice in Israel.

If surfing's your style, hang loose in Australia.

If you need your morning coffee, fight your caffeine headache in Colombia.

If ancient ruins set your heart a flutter, check out what the Incas did at Machu Picchu in Peru.

If you want to experience the party of a lifetime, stagger around Carnaval in Rio de Janerio, Brazil.

If you want to boast about visiting the world's newest country, crawl to East Timor.

If you like to temp fate, run with the bulls in Pamplona, Spain.

If you love cats a little larger than Garfield, prowl East Africa.

If you like to sing musicals at the top of your lungs, work on your Evita impersonation in Argentina.

If you like to prance on the finest plush rugs, tiptoe to Turkey.

If you want to experience Muslim culture close to Europe, swing down to Morocco.

If you want to visit the the most populous country on earth, weave your way through China.

If paying your respects to Hindu Gods is on top of your list, enter the temples of India.

If you want to see capitalism flourishing in the East, bring your credit cards to Hong Kong.

Posted by Court at 03:50 PM

March 09, 2005

Crazy (and Cheap!) Ways to Take a Trip

People do some "crazy" things to travel. Admit it. They do. From selling all worldly possessions to donating plasma for twenty more "travel bucks" - saving money is almost always a concern for the independent traveller. The good news is, you don't have to part with your bodily fluids to afford travel. If you have the time, but not the money, all it may take is a little bit of searching for travel opportunities outside of the mainstream.

Check your mail. You've won a million dollars! You've won a cruise voucher! You've won the secret to eternal life! Toss the first and the third letters, keep the second. Although these free vouchers do come with a catch, you might as well see what that catch may be. Sometimes, you have to listen to a sales presentation, or try a product. This voucher will probably have inflexible dates and not include how you are going to get to the departure cities (which are usually in Florida), but cheap tickets to Florida abound, and if you are without time constraints, the Monday - Friday cruises aren't necessarily a big deal.
Become a Frequent Flyer/Frequent Cruiser/Frequent Sleeper. Airlines, cruise lines, hotel chains and other traveller-services love their frequent customers and reward them aptly. Airlines throw around frequent flyer points like candy and hotel chains love to give discounts to those who often use their services. Those who enjoy cruises may find themselves on a list of loyal customers that will provide them with discounts, and, even better, opportunities to participate on "test runs". Test runs are "new cruises" - new ships or itineraries where the crew needs "practice". You may not have the smoothest trip ever, but for a dirt-cheap trip, hey, does it really matter?
Make a friend in the travel industry. Travel agents, flight attendants, children of pilots...all those people have connections, and if you're close enough with 'em, some of those connections may rub off on you. Airline buddy passes, 2-for-1 deals and promo trips are all part of your possibilities. These things usually require a bit of dough, patience and a good book (for the long hours you may be stuck in the airport when you're flying stand-by), but think of it as time spent reading up on your ultimate destination.
Develop a sudden interest in time-shares. Ahh, time shares. Major scams, in my humble opinion, but that doesn't mean you can't work them for all they are worth. Head to Google and look up a few. Many times, in order to entice new, potential clients through their doors, these "Travel Agencies" will offer free trips to popular destinations such as Orlando, Florida and Las Vegas, Nevada. These tickets and two-night stays are usually in the middle of the week, and do not include taxes. However, if you were thinking of heading there anyway, might as well say "yes" the the next time someone gives you a call and offers you a free trip or two.
Start filling out surveys, dropping your name in the box, and putting your local radio station on speed dial. A little luck never hurt anyone. Scour the internet for surveys and fill 'em out! You may just be that person that gets the free vacation to Europe/Mexico/other exotic locale. As the saying goes, you can't win the lottery if you never buy a ticket. Radios also offer travel promotions, usually in conjunction with a concert tickets. Free trip and a rock show. Totally tubular, man!
Go solo and pack light. They usually cost some dollahs to get into them, but working as an Air Courier is a great way to travel for those who don't mind a bit of adventure. Air Couriers take last-minute flights to various destinations around the globe, and are usually allowed only one carry one bag, as the rest of their luggage allowance is taken up by the cargo they are responsible for carrying. However, since 9-11, heightened security measures have limited the number of Air Courier flights that are available, and it may not be worth the $35 investment.
Hang out at your local port. Boat crews are always looking for extra hands. Unfortunately, men have the advantage here, as most want strong workers who are willing to work long days on the fishing boats. Most go out to sea and then back again, but work in fishing regions can give you a feel for life somewhere else, along with some cold, hard cash (especially in Alaska). They lucky few that can snag a ride on pleasure or race yachts should jump at the opportunity. These are usually easiest to catch in the South Pacific and Caribbean Islands.
Develop a hidden talent and head out over the seas. Cruise ship workers have long and hard hours, but it's a great way to get out an explore. Entertainers generally have it the easiest of the lot, so if you're sensational at singing, dancing, or playing a harmonica while standing on your head, this may be the job for you. Most cruise lines will offer 3 to 6 month contracts, and having an "in" is the best way to make your resumé leap to the top of the pile. However, numerous books and articles on the internet also show you a way through the door.

Posted by Court at 09:18 AM

March 04, 2005

Vegetarian Recipes

Ratatouille Provencale

Here is a recipe from the South of France, a robust, peasantine meal that has become a classic vegetable stew. You can tart it up a little with tomato concentrate and a little water, especially if you don't have the right kind of tomatoes.

You will need:
3 large juicy tomatoes, chopped roughly
1 courgette, chopped roughly
1 green pepper, chopped roughly
1 aubergine (eggplant)
2 medium chopped onions
salt for aubergine
salt for seasoning
5-6 tablespoons of olive oil
OPTIONAL: A heaped teaspoon of tomato concentrate and a little water

Slice the aubergine (eggplant), salt the slices one on side, put the slices onto kitchen paper and 'sweat' the aubergine. After fifteen minutes, turn the aubergine slices over and salt the other side. The kitchen paper will absorb the bitter liquid that comes off.

Rinse the aubergines in cold water, add to a heavy pan with a lid. Add all the other ingredients to the pot, drizzle with the olive oil, and start to cook, very slowly, with the lid on and at a low heat. Cook for 30 minutes, checking every now and then by lifting the lid and giving it a stir. If the bottom seems to be browning add a little more olive oil or water. Depending on the pan, you may need to cook for a further 15 minutes; you may not.

This is so simple to make and so good to eat!

Pitta Levent

Though theoretically a Turkish dish, this is an example of how some Turkish cuisine, like all great cuisines of the world, borrow from other sources. If this doesn't blow your tastebuds, nothing will.

You will need:
6 pita breads

For the filling:
250g of fresh bean sprouts
one tomato, sliced into thin bits and slices quartered.
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 heaped teaspoon tomato concentrate
one onion
yellow cheese, grated, to add on top
olive oil
OPTIONAL: remains of the ratatouille you cooked, above (really! It gives it an extra zing!)

Soften the onions in a pan with olive oil; put aside. Add beansprouts to pan with a little more oil and start stir-frying. As you stir, add soy sauce, slices of tomato, tomato paste (and ratatouille, if you like). Keep stirring until bean sprouts are cooked, but still quite crisp. Warm pita bread in hot oven for about five minutes, or until warmish. Slice 'top' of pita bread, open up. Distribute filling, stuffing evenly amongst pita breads, then add grated cheese on top. Pop back in the oven for about five minutes - ten minutes, depending on how melted you like your cheese to be.

This should always be eaten straight away.

Posted by Court at 10:53 AM

March 02, 2005

Hands-On Holidays in Great Britain

The National Trust, Britain's largest conservation charity, offers 2 to 14 day working holidays in more than 150 spots throughout Great Britain. These working holidays give you a chance to learn new skills such as drystone walling, repairing footpaths, planting trees, cutting hay, gardening and more.

You pay a basic fee for food and accommodation, which can vary from roughing it in tents, to a farmhouse, cottage or, perhaps, a 17^th century village hall. For your fee you'll also receive a year's free entry to stately homes in Britain.

It won't all be work - this is a holiday. Hill walking, canoeing, mountain biking, rock climbing and sightseeing are just a few of the planned activities for volunteers.

Looking for something less strenuous? Oak Holidays are for over 35's and Oak Plus is for the over 50's. The National Trust also plays host to open-air events such as rural festivals, horse trials and concerts. Volunteers are eager to help, so these Event Holidays are some of the first to sell out.

There's gardening on a grand scale, holidays for biology students, amateur naturalists and wildflower enthusiasts. In fact, for just about anyone interested in the outdoors and preserving the environment.

The National Trust holidays are so popular that early booking - January and February - is the only way to ensure you get what you want. People who have participated in the working holiday scheme talk of the new friends that they made, the satisfaction of knowing they're helping conservation efforts, the lasting memories and the sense of accomplishment they achieve.

For a holiday brochure:
From North America call 011 44 870 429 2428
Address:
Working Holidays, Sapphire House
Roundtree Way, Norwich NR7 8SQ
England
To order a brochure via email, contact them at:
working.holidays@nationaltrust.org.uk

For further information on the National Trust see:
www.nationaltrust.org.uk or their conservation and environment web site.

Posted by Court at 03:44 PM

High-Tech Travel - Not What it's Cracked Up to be

Producers of PDA's, digital cameras and laptops make grand claims to portability and lightweight access for the traveler.

In truth, unless you're traveling for less than a month in only "western" countries, there's still a lot to be worked out before portable computing fulfills its promises. PDA's and digital cameras are reliant on home base computers, and laptop computers come with weight issues.

One obvious problem is that there's no such thing as a global ISP. Many internet providers, such as AOL, offer phone numbers in other countries, for an enormous increase in cost per hour. This is helpful in some places, but if you are going on an extended trip, you will no doubt encounter many countries that your ISP is not present in.

Furthermore, unless you are on a tour of the Sheratons and Hyatts of the world, you will not have phone jacks in every hotel that you stay in. To complicate matters even more, there are many different kinds of phone jacks around the world, and the wired traveler must travel with an adapter for each telephone system. Add this to the fact that different countries run on different voltages, making a converter necessary to run a PDA, and your lightweight, tiny PDA with accessories is as portable as a small brick.

PDA's and digital cameras also require a home base computer to download onto, and that computer must have product-specific software loaded onto it. In other words, the traveler must find a cybercafe, load software onto their machines, and then download the files to date. At that point, the traveler must either move the downloaded information to a disk or e-mail the files home.

Few cybercafes will let travelers load new software onto its machines. And so the traveler is stuck with full PDA's and digital cameras, and no way to get the info off of the device. Infrared modems, while giving manufacturer's bragging rights, are no help whatsoever if you cannot load the supporting software onto the host PC.

The cellular phone alternative

Some mobile phones work in more than one country or region. If you are going worldwide on your trip, this won't help you any more than AOL's access numbers, but if you are visiting just a few regions, you can get a mobile phone that works specifically in that region.

You could get around the converter issue by purchasing a PDA that runs on batteries, and while you couldn't synch with anything, you could at least have e-mail access.

The short-term solution

For the short-term traveler, the PDA and digital camera fulfills its promises in spades. You, the traveler on a 2-week holiday, can take as many digital photos as your storage disks can handle. You can type entire stories into a PDA, which you will then download into your home computer at the end of your holiday. Again, make sure your equipment takes normal batteries and you won't need to worry about voltage.

The Sony Mavica solution

Sony has made a digital camera that takes regular floppy disks. Your photos are stored onto the disks as jpegs, which you can then transfer via floppy at a cybercafe. There's no proprietary software involved.

The heavyweight solution

When I told my tech-head friend Marc about my issues with portable computing, he said that he would insist on carrying everything he'd need, no matter how much it weighed.

So, for tech-heads like Marc, I recommend the following, in addition to a digital camera and PDA:

a lightweight laptop with dual voltage

the laptop must have a floppy disk drive (Apple devotees should buy a slightly older model or get a floppy module for their extra bay)

load your photo editor (such as Photoshop), your digital camera and PDA software onto your laptop before leaving home. Bring only a first aid disk and some blank floppies (pre-formatted for PC, no matter which platform you choose, as most cybercafes feature IBM-compatibles)

make sure your accessories run on batteries, thus eliminating the need for a converter

bring a wide selection of plugs, trying them out beforehand.

You can then download your photos and information to your laptop, process into a portable format such as JPEG or RTF, copy to a floppy and go to a internet cafe to print or to e-mail stuff home. Be sure to add any other software you might need to your laptop, such as MS Word, games, or a GPS program.

The ultimate solution

Remember when Iomega drivers had to be installed onto your system? Now Iomega drivers come with new computers. Hopefully, as PDA's and digital cameras become more standardized, their drivers will automatically be built into system software. Then, PDA's and digital cameras will live up to their lofty portability claims.

Posted by Court at 03:38 PM

Odds'n' Ends

In this section you will find useful information on how to get work overseas; on visas and embassies; organisations that allow you to live/work in different countries; and fun stuff that we didn't know where else to put.

The Art of Bartering
Colleen Dilts has compiled a set of guidelines to finding the best price when traveling and when at home. Read her 'golden rule' and get ready to shop.

How To Travel For Free
Aaron O'Sullivan can't tell you why a Muslim man in a Muslim country was keeping pigs. But he can tell you this. It was ABSOLUTELY FREE and Operation Three's Company was a success.

Ode to a Backpack
The lady who washed David Kessler's backpack announced afterwards that she imagined hints of his life were seeping out from its pores to be seen by her.

Ships Ahoy! Bound for Never-Never Land
Sarah Greenbaum goes where calories mean nothing, cash is nonexistent, and the bingo is non-stop: a 6-day cruise.

Whisper
After 15 months on the road a strange feeling keeps creeping up on Kelly Sobczak, but what is it, and when will it overwhelm?

While I'm Young
What would happen if standing in lines made you younger? Bob Pedersen couldn't help but wonder, while in one of many queues he braved on his RTW trip.

The Glamour of Flying
While flying trans-Atlantic, Sean Fitzmorris wonders if all this air travel rot is really worth it. In two parts.

Hotel Room Connection Tips
Connecting a laptop to a hotel room phone system can have pitfalls, but Christopher Gleize steers you clear.

How to Plan a Trip Online
Lots of links to resources that will help you get information vital to planning your big trip.

Adventures and Hard Lessons in Travel Writing
Brad Newsham discusses his experiences in publishing and his semi-serious plans to teach a course for would-be writers, entitled: Stop Writing Now!.

Foreign Voltage Systems
Christopher Gleize explains how not to be shocked by foreign electricity.

Disturbing the Peace
Sleepy? Craig Guillot has a bedtime story for you, a whodunit of mystery and suspense. Nighty night, don't let the gringos bite!

Rick Steves Makes Stop in Eugene
In two hours, Rick Steves gave 20 years' worth of advice for the budget and independent traveler going to Europe.

Posted by Court at 03:09 PM

Have a Laugh - Amusing Links from Around the Net

It's easy to take travelling too seriously, but fortunately some people remind us to stand back and chuckle because, hey, it probably is funnier than it seemed at the time. Below are links to sites that we think offer a look at the lighter side of travel. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, contact us with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

So, You Wanna Be A Flight Attendant?
Are you nuts? Lisa Tossey and Lara McGinty give the reasons for and against working the friendly skies.

Aussie Language
Everything you need to decipher the 'strine of the Aussie sitting next to you on the bus.

Typical Travellers
Travellers we've all met on the road. In four parts.

JohnnyJet's Travel Humor
Travel and airline jokes, plus links to enough laughs to make you grab your air-sickness bag.

Slanguages
Learn to speak just like a local whether you're going to New York or Tokyo.

Roadside America
Find all the weird stuff that America is famous for.

Posted by Court at 02:07 PM

Other Travelogues

Below you will find links to sites that offer tales of other travellers' trips and exploits. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, contact us with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

Africa

Tire Tracks
This Dutch-American Tire Tracks expedition team will bring you along (from planning to on-the-road) on their two year, overland journey from Casablanca to Cape Town to Cairo. Start date: early 2005.

Europe

Eurail Blog
From planning to railing all over Europe, follow this Eurailing adventure.

Sauntering 2000
Dan Bachmann is on an extended trip through Europe and North Africa.

Round-the-World

Travelology.org
Justin and Teresa head on a year-long adventure RTW.

Geekeasy.com
Journal entries and photos from 4 continents (and counting). Adam Katz is currently traveling overland from Tanzania to Moscow and starting a new career as a travel writer.

Not Workin'
More than 11 months and nearly 50,000 miles of travel, Michael and Janna have completed their RTW trip and have heaps of journal entries and photos.

One Year, One World
Winston & Jennifer Yeung have a very nice looking site to journal their RTW trip. They have some fantastic photos and they update their blog frequently.

1 Giant Leap
Visually amazing site, for two guys recording "a 12 chapter DVD film/album celebrating the creative diversity of different cultures and the unity that runs through it all."

Amy & Traci's World Tour
Built on the road from smokey internet cafes, the girls hope you can learn from their travel tips and mistakes.

Around the World in 80 Clicks
Boris Kester's site is dedicated to traveling with hundreds of pictures and stories from all over the world.

Chocolate Nomad
In Feb 2000, Chris D decided, "being the impulsive fellow I am," to travel 'round the world for 14 months, to learn more about the world, about faith and religion, and about himself.

Dan & Jen's Round the World Trip
Two late-20 something Brits give their irreverent look at Asia/ Aus/ NZ/ South America, while travelling around the world for a year.

e-Lopers
"A couple of travel nuts travelling across 6 continents for 1 year to explore the roots of marriage." They also marry in the local tradition whenever possible – 8 times, so far.

Hitch-hike the World
Kinga and Chopin have set out to see the world, hitchhiking as their only source of transport.

MadNomad
Gregg and Evelyn travelled for 14 months starting April 1999. Cool site of an awesome trip with lots of pics.

Middle of Everywhere
An attorney and a paranormal investigator got sick of not just New Jersey, but of the NE U.S. After seeing the world, they plan to move to the U.S.' west coast. We at BootsnAll empathize.

Our Really Big Adventure
Caelen and Barbara globe it for adventure activities, from rock climbing to snowboarding and ice climbing. Covers India, Nepal, SEA, New Zealand and South America.

Rhymer's Travel Diary
"A new look for old rubbish" with funny yet informative entries about Rhymer's RTW trip, and the pix are pretty sweet too.

Travels With a Spousal Unit
"Roses are red, violets are blue.
We tied the knot in Kathmandu.
He is stoned, she has diarrhea.
Was this his or her idea?"

Wanderlings
On October 3, 2000 Kristi and Johan De Vadder gave it all up to spend a year traveling around the world. Their website is to keep friends and family, other travelers, and generally voyeuristic web-surfers informed on their big trip.

Where in the World is Bob Jack?
It's a multiple-choice question that has 62 possible answers - and at least 35 more will be added over the next two years.

South America

Live a Little
For 365 days Heleen and Laurent will leave the security and comfort of their cosy Belgian life to travel around South America.

North America

5 Million Steps
Follow a lone hiker attempting to hike the U.S.' famous, nefarious Appalachian Trail, from Springer Mtn., Georgia, to Mt. Katahdin, Maine.

RoadTrip America
These guys have been working while on the road since 1994. Inspiration for those that dream of a mobile office.

Russell's Big Adventure
Russell Ferrier takes the motorbike ride of a lifetime: an 8,400-mile journey across the southern USA.

Travels with Samantha
Philip Greenspun's summer "...seeing North America, meeting North Americans, and trying to figure out how people live".

Asia

Me and Chairman Mao
Jason Barbacovi lives in Beijing, China. Sometimes he makes fun of it, sometimes it makes fun of him. Either way, it gets blogged. Awesome photos.

162 Days in the East
Arno and Janine are taking off on an extended tour of the Middle East in their camper.

Asian Cycling Adventure
Joanne Sandrin and BootsnAll writer Graydon Hazenberg left in Jan. 2001 to cycle Asia for at least a year. Follow their journey and check out their photos.

Ayse and Jan's Travelspot
From Turkey to Iran, Pakistan to Laos, this Belgian family (kids too) love a good road trip, and they've got the pictures to prove it.

The Dennis Bergkamp Trail
Goal: In 9 months, get to the World Cup in Japan and Korea without flying. Hope: That these footy fans footing over Eurasia will meet them up with others, and will inspire other fans to head to the World Cup.

Nepal & India: Three Months in the Boonies
Lei Parker's 2000 trip has resulted in the ultimate in bookmarkable travel reading. Curl up with a cuppa for this one – night after night after night.

Miscellaneous

Notes from the Road
Erik Gauger has designed a fantastic looking site with superb photos from his travels and subjective travel articles from all over the US, parts of Europe, Central America, the Caribbean, and Mexico.

Impressions from bicycle travels
Visual stories from America and Asia. Basically a non-commercial bicycle tour photo site. Graphic intensive for folks with dial-up.

Adam McIntosh
He used to live in a treehouse in Scotland, but now Adam has packed his telescopic didgeridoo and donned his kilt to travel North America and the Pacific.

Far & Near
Travel stories with the purpose of promoting cultural preservation and sustainable development. There are also articles about preservation and assistance programs around the world, as well as the arts.

Gone Walkabout
Plenty of articles and travelogues from Sean Connolly's travels.

Travelhog.net
Travelogues from every continent, as well as highlighted most popular reads.

Vesa's Travelogue and Photo Book
Site has hundreds of photos from Thailand, Hungary, Lithuania and many other countries. All pictures thumbnailed and with descriptions.

Wandering Buddhist
BnA member Andrew's blog from Iraq, where he teaches beekeeping skills to the local villagers and townspeople.

World Hum
"Describes the rush that we feel when we travel, a surge of adrenaline, electricity, and sometimes, on this ever-shrinking planet, connection."

Posted by Court at 02:00 PM

Packing Light

I thought I'd packed the minimum for two months in South America. Guess again. Standing on a fountain in the main market square in Quito, Ecuador, I was selling off half my stuff.

The sun went behind the rococo colonial cathedral while a couple of gorgeous big-eyed teenaged girls debated buying my red polyester blend shirt. With retail clothing experience, I stressed the shirt's wash'n'wear and colorfast attributes, in mangled Spanish. They bought, and walked off happy. But as I counted my coins, I had to wonder what I was thinking when I packed.

Overloading is one of the most common errors we make when we travel. We end up lugging around a heavy load of things we'd dump if they hadn't cost us so much.

Why is the over-packing habit so hard to shake? Do we think human needs can't be met in far corners of the globe? Are we such hopeless materialists we think stuff is the answer to all our fears? Or do we go into minor panic just before departure and imagine some item might prevent suffering? Preventing suffering is what packing light is really about, avoiding the misery of hauling around heavy stuff you don't need or want.

I like to get on and off planes, trains, boats and buses and in and out of taxis carrying all I possess. The moment you are separated from your belongings, something can end up missing. I also appreciate being able to walk from the station to a place to stay in small towns or large cities.

Before I go any farther, let me point out that if you are in Paris, Tokyo, New York or other fashion capitals for several weeks, that is NOT traveling. It's staying. Different rules apply. In major urban centers, looking good is your ticket to a good time and interesting new friends. So, don't skimp on style and class. On the road, you change your identity, transforming into a good animal on the move.

I must also point out that though males also pack too much, they seem much better than females at getting along with very few practical clothes. Males go overboard with gear - water filters, cook kits, fancy photo equipment, snorkeling gear, mini-computers and such. Most of this advice is aimed at women.

This leads back to the lightness factor. I've been to fifty countries, hitch-hiked around Iceland, ridden a camel across the Rajastan Desert, grabbed a jet to Costa Rica on two days notice. This is no novice traveler speaking. Yet, despite knowing what a burden luggage can be, my instincts tell me to be ready for anything. In other words, cutting to a minimum is not second nature despite plenty of experience.

Recently, I taught a four-hour class I called "Cheapskates in Paradise". It included discussions on packing. Students commented that this part of the class was both very entertaining (as I unpacked and spread out), and very useful.

For the first class session, I walked in and announced that I was ready to go to Europe in the spring and camp. The actual trip was a month with my pal, Marti. In class I unpacked a rolling carry-on bag stuffed with a four-pound tent, air mattress and light down sleeping bag. My daypack held clothes, camera, journal and guidebooks. I wore a coat, wool pants and waterproof clogs since it can be cold and wet in Europe.

As for the trip itself, once in the rental car, we had spread out into cardboard boxes we picked up at the first grocery store. We each set up our own food box, too. And we still had plenty of room in the car. We camped through East Germany, Czech Republic, Poland, Slovakia and Hungary in May and June, staying in hotels about one night in three. One day we climbed the fence and spent a whole afternoon exploring an abandoned Soviet military base, and we both found some really cool mementos to bring home, like a menu board in Russian. We were glad we packed light and had room for them.

For the second session of the class, I brought a daypack and tote. "I'm going to the west coast of Mexico for two weeks in February," I announced for the sake of drama. In real life I went with Carol, my best pal from eighth grade, and her friend, Dawn. Carol brought one of those roomy rolling backpacks filled to capacity with everything she could possibly need - maybe fifty pounds, including six books. Dawn packed a little lighter, but not much.

Walking in and out of villages off the main road, hopping on and off local buses, riding in pickups, climbing to the third floor of fine old beach hotels – these were times they really envied me my light load. And not once did I wish I had brought more. In fact, at one hotel I left several garments behind, drying on the line on the roof. Though I missed the items, I got along with even less that I had thought possible. A good lesson. My oversight left so much extra room in the daypack that I bought a colorful string hammock to bring home.

On the road, having just what you need and not one thing more makes life easy. The freedom of being unburdened is marvelous. But the art of light packing is not easy for most of us. The secret for me is to pack with extreme care.

Here are my rules. No garment clashes. All tops and bottoms are totally interchangeable. For warmth, use layers. Every item has a dual purpose, nice enough for dinner downtown but tough and simple enough for hiking. The tropical daytime sun shirt becomes the party shirt at night.

Personally, I add one more challenge to the acquisition process. All the clothes I take must come from second-hand stores. Clothes, especially when worn day after day and beaten clean nightly in a washbasin, wear out quickly. I always seem to sit in something messy, spill my lunch, have a darling baby burp all over me, or snag on a thorn bush somewhere along the adventure trail.

Besides, who wants to look rich and tempting to the bad guys? Which brings me to jewelry. Leave it behind. Take a five-dollar water-resistant watch with an alarm. If you want to look gorgeous for that one night at the opera, fake it with cheap stuff or a nice scarf.

Is this getting complicated? Well, if you think now, you don't have to later.

For the tropics
I have one set of clothes for trips that include good beach hotels and nice restaurants. Style, color and versatility rule with this "collection luxe." A second set is for tromping through the Yucatan jungle and climbing pyramids, or for kayaking and sleeping in beach shelters in Palau. For this "collection gauche," toughness plus sun and bug protection are prime considerations. Most tropical trips require some items from each of these two sets. Both fit in one cardboard box.

For temperate climates
Add a light wool sweater, tights and solid shoes. I add and subtract as I make good finds at the various cheap-chic emporiums.

The winter collection
This is another story, much harder to keep lightweight. I spent November in Japan with one bag so it can be done. A down coat, warm tights under wool pants, thick wool socks and a cozy hat were the only additions for a mild winter, though I wished for mittens that night in the thatched-roofed traditional house without heat high in the Honshu mountains.

Every ounce I pack I regret having to carry at some point in a trip. On a recent adventure, I made a list of what I actually used, to remind myself of what to bring next time. I used a Cordura daypack with most of the weight on the waist strap. This pack could go on walks with me once I got settled. A small fanny pack was my purse, and a nylon tote that held my clothing en route also served as a shopping bag when I hit the markets.

Clothing
(for cool climates)

Loose, light, black long pants nice enough to wear out in the evening and for keeping the mosquitoes off after dark
tights to go under pants when it's chilly
quick drying, modest, long shorts in khaki color
swim top to go with shorts
light skirt or culottes when you want to look more feminine
one or two colorful t-shirts
short-sleeved poly shirt or tank top to wear under anything
quick dry dress up shirt
long sleeved, light color

sun shirt

white suncap
head scarf for wind and to dry hair flat
two or three underwear
two pairs of quick-drying socks
light running or walking shoes (wear on plane)
all weather, synthetic (not leather), black walking sandals
coated nylon windbreaker with tie-tight hood
thin black acrylic or wool knit sweater (wear on plane) that can go under a shirt and windbreaker when it's chilly

The challenge is to look good while being infinitely practical.

(for cooler temperatures)
Add the following and you can layer up using just about everything you brought.

wool socks to wear with walking shoes
Polypro undershirt with long sleeves in a dark color

Personally, I don't see cold weather travel as much fun. But for the high mountains, or visiting Patagonia, Siberia or Scandinavia in summer you really will need a slightly larger rolling suitcase or backpack. With down and synthetic materials you don't have to haul a ton. I add black wool pants which go anywhere, a pile pullover, black down coat, and boots that beat the rain and ice. If you plan to be outdoors a lot in rainy weather, take a totally waterproof rain suit that goes over your pants and coat. It worked for me in horizontal downpour on a fishing boat off Alaska.

In addition to clothes, everyone needs some toys. I won't visit a warm ocean without swim goggles, the one indispensable item for exploring coral reefs. The snorkel is optional, swim fins way too heavy.

Comfort and care supplies

bar of glycerin soap for skin, hair and clothing, baggie to store it
nail file, tweezers, tiny scissors, mini sewing kit
comb, razor with blade cover, toothpaste and tooth brush
sunscreen, SPF 30 lip gloss, small Vaseline for dry hair and skin, insect repellant containing Deet

Outside the tropics, I add moisturizing lotion. Spare glasses will be handy too. I don't take sunglasses, but UV blocking glasses are useful. Don't forget ziplock bags. They have many uses, including popping a pastry into your pack for a long bus ride, or storing your watch and earrings while you go swimming.

You can buy bottled water almost anywhere these days. I always carry a water bottle. I find that one liter is plenty except in extreme heat. Iodine pills are invaluable for sterilizing questionable water, which to me is water in any less-developed country, unless bought sealed or have personally seen that the water was boiled. With my water bottle and pills, I can fill up in a bus station bathroom and have safe water. A medicine dropper in a small bottle of plain bleach does the same job as chlorine, two drops per quart. Then wait 30 minutes.

In many places the available cuisine may wear thin - fatty, salty, or just plain boring. I like to supplement with my own salads of fresh peeled fruits and vegetables from local markets and vendors. Soak all raw foods you don't peel in your Iodine water or Chlorine water about thirty minutes before eating, to kill gastrointestinal bugs. I carry a pie tin, plastic fork and spoon, folding knife and film cans of salt and of mixed spices.

In all of North and South America, plus American-influenced-Pacific Islands, the same electric system is in use. You may want to take an electric mini pot, for sterilizing water for making tea or coffee in your room. In Africa, Australia, Europe and Asia they use a different current, so buy a pot when you arrive.

I am a recorder of memories, so I carry a compact 35mm camera with flash which will shoot slides or prints. One of my weight extravagances is plenty of film, which is costly in less-developed areas. The camera goes in my small tummy pack, along with a little note pad and pen. In the back pocket of that tummy pack, I fit my passport, travelers checks and credit cards. These never leave my body en route. I have a tummy pack large enough to fit a small paperback book too, because you never know when you are going to be in for a long wait or quiet evening in your room. In my daypack, I keep my serious diary, extra pen and pencil with an eraser so I can amuse myself with sketching. An address book and a few envelopes are valuable. For mailing stuff home, or keeping brochures in order, I prefer big Tyvek envelopes. And I love to have a mini phrase book for the local language.

In the medicine kit (a small zip-lock baggie), I carry cleansing wipes, a small tube of topical disinfectant and five or six band-aids. Wounds infect much more easily in the tropics. Aspirin is nice to have, as is Vitamin C in case you feel a cold coming on. Zinc and beta-carotene also inhibit viruses and you're sure to be exposed to some new ones in a new place. Motrim for stomach upsets is always useful. Anything more is excessive unless you are going to be far from civilization, in which case none of this advice is too useful.

In many parts of the world you can walk into a pharmacy and ask for any medication available, or get the pharmacist to prescribe based on symptoms. These guys are usually pretty good. Go to a doctor if symptoms persist. In seriously disorganized areas of the world, you definitely want to have a couple of sterile syringes along in case you need an injection. If you require any uncommon medications, carry them with you.

Wow, that all sounds so complicated and the lists look huge. But you'll be amazed at how little room it takes. Practice thinking need, not want. Give yourself permission to leave things behind for the hotel maids if you overpack. They usually appreciate it.

Joyful traveling.

Posted by Court at 01:51 PM

Travail of the Travel Writer

Imagine this if you will - you have just returned from a glorious trip to Europe, you are all excited and want the whole world to read about the beautiful places you've seen. You sit at your word processor, (must not use a typewriter [what do you mean, pad and pencil?] in these modern times!) and try to earn some money so the trip becomes deductible if not profitable, and so the IRS will believe this is a business, not just a hobby.

First, find a subject. Just to write about some beautifully interesting building, festival, village, or country is not enough. Time must be spent in research and in reading articles that have already been printed - maybe you will get an idea of what will hit the editor's select button.

You read where someone visited Prague and all he remembered were the beer bars, and it almost makes you cry. When it dawns on you that article hit some editor's "select" button, you really do cry! Can that be for real? Visit Prague and write about beer bars! What about the Charles Bridge, what about the old Jewish Cemetery, then there is the St. Vitus Cathedral and the Prague Castle!

The neighbors are invited for a showing of some of the slides taken during the trip. Now the enthusiasm can show, with voice, body language and the picture all combining to tell the story. It's interesting to hear the comments and see the excitement of someone who last visited Venice 30 years ago, and now has the opportunity to visit again through your slides and description. But how do you write that in fifteen hundred words or less? Some people ask to see the slides another time and that makes you feel really great, until your daughter says they probably just wanted an early evening nap.

Part of the problem is that the English language will not cooperate in the description of what you have seen. If you write about the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Boulogne, France with its Italian dome, and the St. Petronius Basilica in Bologna, Italy with its French (Gothic) dome, it is important to remember that the same vocabulary must be used to describe two buildings that are extremely different. Words like Byzantine, Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque describe the differences, other words describe the similarities.

If you describe a "thousand" year old city surrounded by a high stone wall with gates, with cobbled streets, a beautiful cathedral - a city still alive with stores, banks, churches and schools for the residents, are you describing Carcassone, Dubrovnik, or Rothenburg? Or perhaps Urbino, Italy; Sarlot, France; York, England; or maybe Toledo, Spain. Could be one of the several hundred other towns and villages that fit that description in England, Italy, France, Germany and other European countries. They really are very different to the eye, but the English language doesn't know that. Come to think of it, your impression will more likely reflect the weather on the Tuesday you visited, than the skill of the builders a thousand years ago.

When you see lovely old towns with beautiful homes, huge churches, castle ruins, ancient bridges, and shopping streets, you wonder if the architect designed that beauty, or if the builder just built according to the style of that day, and the beauty "is in the eye of the beholder."

Many travel articles describe just one location or even one little part of a location or one little activity at that part of a location. That may be okay for a reader who hasn't traveled there yet, but for those who have been there and are dying to return, they want to read about the whole place. Isn't it interesting that travel books, articles, and pictures are usually of more interest to the traveler who has already been there, than they are to those who have yet to leave home?

The eye can see and the heart can love what the word cannot describe! Now about that select button...

The series of Invitation to Travel Books are written by Jim and Emmy Humberd. Additional Information can be found at: www.InvitationToTravel.com

For thousands of photos and tidbits from Jim & Emmy's travels through Europe, visit Travel Tidbits.

Posted by Court at 01:47 PM

Lone Female

Incident

I was traveling between Cairns and Alice Springs on a three-day overland trip. On the trip were the driver, a company mechanic, a Texan and four girls. Everyone was traveling alone.

To cut a long story short, on the first night, after some heavy drinking the driver, who was in his 50's, entered the tent of a young Irish girl. Her tent was next to mine and I could hear everything. She asked him what he was doing; he said he wanted to stay awhile. She asked him to leave and I could hear the fear in her voice. The other two guys were also out there somewhere, I could hear them sniggering. The driver repeatedly refused to leave and girl called my name. I went to the tent and I had to tell the driver to leave several times before he actually got out and staggered away.

The girl was very distressed, she moved in to my tent because she was so frightened and virtually cried herself to sleep. A complaint was made against the driver and to the company's credit he was sacked immediately.

Traveling Alone

Traveling alone offers a very different experience. Every corner you turn, decision you make and action you take is entirely your own responsibility. More to the point, problems or situations a lone traveler comes across are his or hers to deal with.

Traveling is not about purposefully putting oneself at risk. It is about putting oneself in places that are new, with people that are different and absorbing the lessons the experience has to offer. However, a traveler cannot always control situations or avoid risk.

I have always traveled alone and because of it, I have often become closer to the local people and have been given a more personal insight into their way of life. A single traveler is less intimidating to locals, and from my own experience, that has made me more approachable. People genuinely want to share their lives, they are often keen to play host and as most good willed people do, they want to make a good impression and share their culture.

Traveling alone is a great experience, but there are certain issues and pressures that are particular to traveling in that way. It is also obvious that lone female travelers may encounter more problems because they are perceived as easier targets and more vulnerable. That's certainly not always the case, but male perceptions don't always take this into consideration.

Male Travelers

I have written this article to point out specific risks to female lone travelers, not with the intention to scare but with the intention to create awareness. Even as a male I have been in situations I didn't like. In India I was robbed on a train and in Delhi I found myself walking down the wrong street with two men who were getting too pushy. But these experiences are not everyday experiences and my time in India was incredibly challenging and rewarding.

A good friend of mine went to Turkey in 1999. As soon as he arrived he accepted a drink from a local. A few hours later he woke up with a headache and all of his belongings had been stolen. So, shit happens to both sexes.

Female Travelers

There are certain places you may travel to and be overwhelmed by stories of female travelers being raped and sexually harassed. Common sense isn't always enough to prevent a situation. Then there are places where you'll hear no such stories. But even in places like Australia there are the occasional incidents, London too. The best advice to seek is from experienced female travelers, who have traveled alone before.

Precautions

A single degree of paranoia can be useful. All men go on the 'Pull', but a few men do not know that 'No' means 'NO'. Foreign women can be seen as easy targets, not just by locals, but by other male travelers.

If someone's generously chucking drinks down your neck, ask yourself to be cautious. Consider where you are and who is around. Don't leave yourself isolated with a stranger. Listen to your gut instinct. When you get to a place for the first time and you are a little nervous, seek out travelers who've been around for awhile. Ask them about safety in the area, take note of how they approach the people and what precautions they take.

Travel lightly too. Your gear can put you at risk too. As a photographer, I know. A degree of aggression may also be necessary in extreme cases. You know where not to kick a male, so kick 'em hard in that exact same place if needs be. Don't be scared to shout or scream; if things get out of hand, use your lungs! You could even go as far as to carry a Personal Attack Alarm. I even know some male travelers who carry whistles, which also double up nicely at raves.

In one nineteen month trip I have heard of stories of rape, murder, a girl waking up on a train to find a man masturbating over her, I've seen a mugging and I've seen harassment.

However, I've heard far more stories of inspirational adventures and encounters. Again, I must reiterate that problems are rare, so go forth and travel - it is the greatest way to learn about our planet, just take care and never be afraid to ask advice.

Posted by Court at 01:01 PM

Advice: Voices of Experience

Advice: Voices of Experience

The thought of travelling independently, exciting though it may be, can also scare the pants off you. Even if travel itself doesn't seem daunting, there are so many things involved - visas, flights, gear and sheer bloody moxy - that it helps to remember that others have done it all before. The articles below are straight from the voice of experience. And if you feel you'd like to share what you've learned from and about travel, write it up and contact us.

Losing My Virginity
Can you remember losing your virginity? Was it on a school trip, scout camp, or that holiday in North Wales with your parents when you were eleven? Steve Holcroft's talking travel, not sex, but there are more similarities than you might think.

Should Teenagers Be Forced To Travel?
Find out why Michael Burke Dougherty thinks there ought to be mandatory travel for teenagers.

A Gift for Travel
Jim Humberd describes a good traveler, one who will be welcome in every country and who truly appreciates the good fortune of being able to travel in the first place.

First-time Travellers
Nick, BootsnAll's TravelNutter, has been travelling for 17 years, and he's learned a few things that should prove useful to you planning or thinking about taking your first trip. In five parts.

Epiphany: Morphing from Tourist to Traveller
When Richard Larssen first went to Europe as a college student in the 60s, he brought suitcases. Now he knows better. Part advice, part anecdote, Richard has some experential wisdom to pass to the beginning traveller. In a series of seven.

Travel Tips for Globetrotters
Information, tips, tricks and suggestions to make life easier when on the road less travelled.

Travel Magic
Toni Caicedo's travels have led her to believe that travel is wonder, that wonder is magic, and that magic is travel.

Myths of Travel
Exploring the myths of travel that some might use as excuses not to go travelling.

Posted by Court at 12:37 PM

Resource List

Accommodation

Air Tickets (One-Way & Round-Trip)

Cheap Ticket Links (sweet deals and great prices for airfares and tickets)

Email (Web-based – check it anywhere in the world)

Embassies & Visas

EmbassyWorld.com (while useful for searching for embassies, their Visa Search does not work)

Eurail Passes

BootsnAll Eurail Guide (deals, specials and all the pass types you need for traveling Europe)

Gear

REI.com(last season's clothing, packs, camping, etc.)
REI-OUTLET.com (last season's clothing, packs, camping, etc.)
Swiss Army Products (knives and more!)
Travel Accessories at eBags.com (all the little extras)

Guidebooks

Health (Advice, Shots, Inoculations, etc.)

Centers for Disease Control (health info to know before you go)
The Travel Clinic (all you need to know about travel and related health matters)
The Travel Doctor (good advice on precautions for before you leave)
WHO - Travel (World Health Organization's breakdown of hazards by region)

Hostels (click the link for our booker!)
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Hotels (click the link for our booker!)
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Insurance for the Road

Travel Insurance Packages for Short-Term, Long-Term & RTW Trips

Money

Packing Tips (what to bring, what to leave at home)
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Phrase Books (learn what you need for any language)
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Rental Cars

Cheap Car Rental Links.com - has the best deals and the major companies and online bookers in one place, so you can find the best deal more easily.

Round-the-World Tickets

BootsnAll TripPlanner

Tours (Backpackers & Independent Travelers)

Backpacker Trips

Posted by Court at 11:33 AM

Useful Links for the Lone Traveler

The sites below offer advice for both men and women seeking to travel on their own. (For more info specifically for the ladies, click here.)

Debunking Travel Myths
We put these up originally for round-the-world travel, but you'll find these myths, and the reality behind them, are pretty relevant for the solo traveler too.

Going Solo
Anita Culp has traveled the world, mostly on her own – and she ain't gonna stop anytime soon.

Lone Female
David Savage gives his take on traveling alone in general, and for the female traveler in particular.

Women Travel Tips
Pretty self-explanatory, huh? Travel on business, with your family, and on your own, more safely and securely.

Gutsy Women Travel
From travel writer Marybeth Bond, author of the book Gutsy Women, tips and tours for the female traveler.

Travel Tips: Solo Travel
Travel writer Mark Maxon also goes more in-depth on the pros and cons of traveling with others.

Posted by Court at 11:32 AM

Why Travel Alone?

You're trying to do your own thing, traveling on your own time, making it on your own steam, all that sort of thing. How better to do it, than to travel on your own?

Now, when we say "travel alone" or "solo travel", that's not to be confused with "solitary confinement". If you don't want to speak to another soul, that's your business; it's your trip, after all. But when you travel alone, it also can become easier to meet locals and other travelers; there's nothing to inhibit you but yourself, and other people may be more likely to come to you, because a person on their own isn't as intimidating as a group or even a couple of people.

Sometimes you may want to meet up with someone else and bum around together for a while; this can be great, smoothing over travel frustrations and helping you recharge your batteries. Being alone can do that too; being alone also lets you see things at your pace, and hey, there's also a lot to be said for not having to deal with anyone's idiosyncrasies but your own.

These are just a few reasons we think you should try solo travel, and why we enjoy it. Here are a few more, see which ones fit you and your trip:

Get yer money's worth: do what you want, from nothing to everything.
Meet all the friends you never knew you had.
Learn about other people, and yourself. Especially yourself.
Try something new. Or just do it again, because the first time 'round was so amazing.
Close proximity to the same people for an extended period of time (days, maybe even longer) ain't your thing. You'd prefer some time to yourself or just not be part of a group.
Have cool stories to tell your friends back home.
Amaze your friends back home because they never thought you'd pull off this solo thing.

Wind up at a new pub with new friends.
Hike, swim, spa, mountainclimb, bungee jump, eat haggis, pub crawl – who knows what you'll wind up doing?
Chance to hang both with locals and other independent travelers.
When some spontaneous, spur-of-the-moment opportunity comes along, take it!
See how varied and different the world really is – and yet how similar all of us people in it really are.
Make new memories to smile and laugh about, even years later, down new and other roads.
For the challenge of it.
For the fun of it.

Really, any reason is a good reason. Most people have their own, a unique reason why they take a little time out to hit the road on their own. What's yours? There's only one way to find out...

Posted by Court at 11:32 AM

Why Not Travel Solo?

It's not for everyone, after all, and traveling on your own might not be your cup of tea. Or maybe just not for this particular trip; it could be you don't feel confident enough in your wanderer's wisdom to try this yet, or maybe you just travel better in the company of a good friend. The key is to travel in the way that best fits your interests and what you feel safe doing. But hey, after a few trips, you never know – maybe one day you'll just want to really gung-ho it and do everything yourself. Good on ya.

Here are some reasons why you might not want to travel alone:

Confidence, or maybe a lack of; you feel comfortable traveling, but would feel safer with a companion so you can watch one another's backs
When it's just you, you can get bored real quick with the company you keep
You're going to a region where safety may be a particular concern, or you aren't totally positive about your ability to listen to your instincts or take care of yourself in potentially dodgy situations
There's no one to share anything with: experiences, expenses, excitement
Sometimes there's nothing worse than dealing with your own idiosyncrasies.
Who's going to watch the bags while you go to the loo?

Solo travel isn't for everyone or for every trip. Keep it in mind though – if not now, you might find out that you want to give it a go next time!

Posted by Court at 11:32 AM

Safety & Meeting People

One of the biggest questions about solo travel is safety, especially whether or not it's safe for a woman to travel alone. We've talked with dozens of men and women who travel solo, all around the world. Do they have problems on the road? Yes. But do they think that, on the whole, traveling alone is safe and worthwhile? Yes, on both counts. Which is part of why they keep setting out on their own, especially the ladies.

Meeting people is a great thing to do, even when traveling alone, and in fact solo travelers may have an easier time of meeting people, as it's easier to approach one person than it is a group. Here are some tips for meeting people:

Find people in your hostel and go on a shopping/cooking excursion.
If you're new to an area, seek out other travelers (at hostels, popular cafes, etc.), who seem in the know. Just keep your wits about you as you get to know people.
Don't be afraid of locals – there can be great friends to be made.

Of course, it's not a perfect, safe world, and you have to keep on alert and be on the look-out for the not-so-nice people of the world. Here are some tips for the male and female solo traveler alike:

Educate thyself. Travel writer Marybeth Bond has traveled alone, quite extensively, over a good part of the world. Her advice, as seen in Dawn MacKeen's "Women's dilemma: Is solo travel worth the risk?" is "for most solo women travelers, negative encounters with men will come in the form of cat calls, dirty looks, pinches and lewd remarks. If you're going to travel alone, you should be prepared to encounter these. And you should educate yourself before leaving on your trip, so that you know how local stereotypes and perceptions of women may affect you – and how you can minimize the risks."
Embarass the hell out of them. For both men and women, if someone is constantly accosting you, or seems potentially threatening, draw attention. Talk loudly. Shout. Laugh and scream, do something crazy; draw public attention to the person's inappropriate behavior.
Dress for the culture. If the women traditionally wear long skirts, you probably don't want to jump out in your halter top and short shorts. Long skirts and trousers are the best travel gear. Educated yourself on local customs, and try your best to fit in. You're less likely to get unwanted attention – and probably more respect from locals – by respecting their culture, even if different from yours.
Wear a wedding ring. Buy a simple ring and put it on your wedding ring finger. If someone starts to bug you, point out that you're going to meet your husband at the bus station, or your wife at a cafe.
Leave! In her article Going Solo, Anita Culp points out "If something makes you angry, just remember: you don't live there, you can leave anytime, and you'll never have to deal with this again!"
"A single degree of paranoia can be useful", says David Savage in his story Lone Female. "Traveling is not about purposefully putting oneself at risk. It is about putting oneself in places that are new, with people that are different and absorbing the lessons the experience has to offer. However, a traveler cannot always control situations or avoid risk.... Consider where you are and who is around. Don't leave yourself isolated with a stranger. Listen to your gut instinct."

These are just a few tips, but what they boil down to is think, be aware, educate yourself, and don't be afraid to do what's necessary to keep yourself safe.

Posted by Court at 11:32 AM

Web Tools

Some tools - such as a hammer or screwdriver - are considered indispensable, and they are a staple of any toolbox. Some online resources are just as invaluable. You'll find them listed below - things like online storage, web-based email and a top-notch search engine. Do you know a site that should be here? If so, please contact BootsnAll with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

Web Email
Yahoo! Mail
Hotmail
Gmail

A must-have for the indie traveller: you can check web-based email from anywhere, and forward other email accounts to one address. Each service offers different features - such as custom content pages or non-English languages.

Xdrive

All the web storage you never knew you needed. Xdrive's personal online hard drive lets you store and access important files. Save, say, a text file containing flight confirmation numbers, or images of your scanned-in passport ID page.

Currency Converter

Money, money, money. Find out what's what in the world's currencies, and even compare rates and exchanges for different days, to see how values fluctuate over time.

Start4All

This handy site provides info on just about anything. Look up any place in the world, or use the "World Newspaper" section to check the local paper. For other topics, an alphabetical list links to pages with everything related to that topic.

REI

If it's outdoor or adventure travel, if it's clothing or gear, if it's tips and advice on the outdoors, on activities, and what you need for them all, then REI'S got it covered. Kit yourself out with all the gear you need for your next trip or outdoor adventure.

Google

Find anything on-line with Google. It's fast, comprehensive and so powerful that it is the engine that powers Yahoo's searches. Need to find something now? Use the box below.

Posted by Court at 11:31 AM

Cheap Vacation Rental Links

Cheap Vacation Rental Links lets you snag a vacation rental at a low price.

Posted by Court at 11:28 AM

Packing Tips & Backpacks

When it comes to deciding on luggage for a trip, especially if this trip may involve a fair bit of time where you're schlepping your stuff around, remember a few things:

Luggage is heavy, and you're here to travel, not lift weights every time you go to a new town.
If you're not using it, it's just dead weight.
Usually you can buy it where you're going, so you don't have to take it with you.
For prescription drugs, bring along a copy of the prescription, and the medicine itself in the original container.
Keeping the luggage light, will keep you more light-hearted as you go.

Packing's a tough one, and we're not going to try to tell you how much is too much or exactly what you should take. You'll ultimately know that better than we can. Personally we subscribe to the "pack it up, unpack and cut by half, then repeat" rule of packing; oftentimes we have our best friend come over to further help the elimination process. You'll figure it out, and here are some tips from other travelers that can help you conquer the packing problem:

Packing Light
Travel Tips for Globetrotters
High-tech travel - not what it's cracked up to be

First-time Travellers

On Backpacks
The first time Ant traveled abroad, he was on a student-exchange program, had no idea what he was doing, and to say that he was a bit scared of the whole thing is a little like saying the Titanic sprang a wee leak. Accordingly he overpacked, and wound up in the UK with a duffel bag on steroids, a suped-up folding garment (on wheels) and a laptop shoulder bag. The luggage barely survived the first week (and so did Ant's back!).

The next time Ant we abroad, he still overpacked, but not as badly, and he had also bought a backpack. Life was much easier – and that was just having hands free to buy a drink or snag a Tube token or do all those little things that hands just come in handy for. He didn't have to constantly set stuff down and pick it up; it was locked in place, and even (more or less) out of the way. He'll never go back. Why use a backpack?

Less stress on your body overall, than carrying suitcases and such
All your belongings are in one bag – easier to keep track of
Your hands are free, and aren't getting cramped up holding suitcases, plus you can still tend to tasks (buying a drink, flagging a taxi) relatively easily
When needed, backpacks easily pull double-duty as laundry bags.

Backpacks make traveling easier (and when you know that what you carry, you have to carry on your back, can also help you pack lighter). We aren't going to deign to tell you what to buy or how to choose; there's plenty of packs to choose from, and really only one good way to decide what would work for you and the trip you're undertaking:

Go to your local outdoor gear shop, or travel to a larger city if you have to (for we Yanks, the BootsnAll guys are REI nuts, and are especially fond of Eagle Creek).
Have your friendly knowledgeable salesperson prove their worth in terms of years on this earth, travel experience, overall technicall/backpack knowledge, etc.
Thus proven, explain what you're doing and what you're looking for.
Try on different packs. The saleperson will help adjust and "fit" the pack to you – the one that feels most right, is probably the one you'll want.
Models with zipoff "day packs" can be especially useful. This way you your main bag, full of all the stuff you don't need when out sight-seeing, can chill in the hostel or hotel room, and you can take with you the stuff you need for the day.

Pack light, and preferably use a backpack – it goes a long way to making for an easier trip. Especially the packing light part; we have yet to hear of travelers who felt they brought too little, only too much.

Posted by Court at 11:11 AM

General Tips & Things to Keep in Mind

Be open to meeting others – when you want to.
Pack your brain. Keep your wits about you, pay attention to what's going on and to the people around you, at all times.
Pack light: it's easier to keep more of an eye on fewer things. Plus it's easier and less fatiguing to get around when you've had 3 hours of sleep, you just got off a 10-hour train ride, and you're trying to schlep your stuff to a hostel in an unfamiliar town. (We recommend backpacks for luggage, by the way.)
If you get lonely, or feel a need to be around other people, remember that you aren't alone. You can always meet up with other travelers and locals. Remember that other solo'ers will feel the same way you do sometimes, so can be natural travel companions.
Pack securely: remember to keep safe – preferably in a money belt worn around your waist at all times – what Nick calls the "crown jewels of travel": passport, all tickets and passes, and all money, credit cards, traveler's cheques, etc., except for what you're using that day.
Being solo makes you easier to approach, and that goes for friendly locals and travelers, as well as for potential thieves and other tossers. Again, keep your wits about you. Leave situations that feel unsafe, and don't be afraid to make a scene (especially women). Sometimes the extra attention is just what you need.
Don't let people – friends, family, the latest scare headline – scare you into thinking you can't do it. The world is a far safer place than any headline would ever dare let on, and thousands of travelers, both men and women of all ages and backgrounds, travel the world on their own every year. You can do it too.

Posted by Court at 11:05 AM

What Is Solo Travel?

Solo travel: loosely defined, is embarking on a trip – with no specific requirements as to time or place – by yourself, with the option of continuing solo for the duration of the journey.

This last part – "with the option of continuing solo for the duration of the journey" – is probably the most important. Traveling solo does not mean that you will spend every moment in some form of solitary confinement, with no companionship or hope for someone to pass the hour with. On the contrary, solo travel is – ironically enough – one of the best ways to meet people on the road. Travelers often tell us that traveling solo has been the best way for them to meet locals and travelers. Why? Because when you're alone, you're easier to approach, as opposed to, say, a big group of backpackers herding about everywhere.

Solo travel isn't easy. No one else is there to look out for you, or to motivate you, or to help relieve you a little when things are frustrating or you aren't feeling well. There are challenges; but travel itself is a challenge – and no matter what, it's better to go, than to just stay home and watch TV, right?

Solo travel

challenges you because it's totally up to you to make your trip happen
can help you meet people and make new friends, which might not have happened in a group or even a couple of people
is a chance to do exactly what you want to do on your trip, without having to consider or compromise with someone else
keeps you even more flexible for those little unplanned, impossible-to-foresee opportunties that make travel so memorable and worthwhile

Posted by Court at 11:05 AM

What Makes Traveling Alone Different?

Traveling alone or with a group or just one or two other people each have their share of difficulties and advantages. When you travel with other people, from just one person to, say, a big ol' backpackin' tour group, it's a very different way to go. Let's look at some of the differences.

Traveling with other people:

More people, more ideas and chances for fun
Locals and other travelers are less likely to approach you
You have a support group, so to speak – everyone looks out for one another (usually)
Danger of falling into a "herd" mentality and not do anything on your own, but always sacrifice to what the group wants
Other people's idiosyncrasies to deal with
There are always people to watch one another's bags and backs and such
You're always around other people, whether or not you want to be

Traveling by yourself:

Everything is up to you, don't have to evaluate or compromise your plans with anyone
No one to help with decision-making
More approachable, so more likely to meet new people
No one to help watch bags, or your back
Greater flexibility with everything in your trip, from where you eat to how you spend the day
No one to share the experiences with, or just vent frustration!
Greater opportunity for experiences, as you aren't sheltered in a group
No one to help motivate you when frustrated, or help care for you (or just suffer alongside) if ill
No one's idiosyncrasies to deal with, but your own!
If you want away from the crowd, you've got it; if you want to be part of a group or meet other people, you most likely can – it's just, as with all else solo travel, up to you

These can also factor in to why you might and might not want to travel alone, at least all the time or now and again. No matter what you decide – solo, with your best friend, in a big honkin' group – travel in the way that you feel is best suited to you. Solo travel is worth a go, but like anything from sushi to country music, it won't be to everyone's taste. And that's cool. However you travel, it should be your way.

Posted by Court at 11:05 AM

Money Belts

When talking about packing and carrying your belongings and valuables and such, Nick is fond of pointing out the importance of protecting the "crown jewels of travel". These are the items which, if stolen or lost, can at the least cause some not exactly minor problems. What are these all-important crown jewels of travel?

Passport & Visas
All tickets and passes (such as your Eurail pass)
All money, credit cards, traveler's cheques, etc. (except for what you're using that day)

These items, unless you're using them, should be tucked into a money belt. Money belts, if you're not familiar, are sort of miniature, flat bumbags (what Yanks call "fanny packs", to much derisive snickering). It's a zippered pouch, usually made of nylon or a light cotton, with two buckling straps that you wrap around your waist, with the pouch resting against your tummy, tucked inside your pants/skirt, underneath all your clothes.

Why do this? Because out of sight is out of mind; even if you get robbed, these items should be safe. And you're also not leaving the crown jewels to the mercy of hotel security or your backpack or someplace where you can't keep watch and know that they're still there.

You can pick up a money belt at most travel stores, gear shops, online shops, etc., usually for just a few dollars (or whatever the local equivalent is). It's a small investment, but it keeps safe your cash, your ID, and means of transport – which really means it helps keep safe your trip. And that's worth a couple of bucks.

But what about other travel documents? Or, is there something to have with you in case something does happen to your passport? Yes, and yes. Here's more about different travel documents.

Posted by Court at 11:05 AM

Planning an Itinerary

If you're reading this, you obviously have an internet connection. Which means you have a wealth of information, literally at your fingertips. Use it. When it comes to planning, the key is to balance having an understanding of where you're going, with what you want to do and get out of your trip, and being open to surprises, difficulties, andunplanned, impossible-to-foresee opportunities.

Figuring out where you want to go is as sipmle as deciding which places get your blood rushing. Where have you always wanted to go? Always wanted to see Tahiti, or Australia, or Spain? What have you always wanted to do? Hike the Alps, or the Annapurna circuit, or dive the Great Barrier Reef? Start with questions like these.

Do some research, both online and in print guidebooks. Use the Internet, your local library and your bookstore; that's what they're there for.

Don't overplan though. If you know things you want to do and places you want to see, great, obviously try to plan them – but be open. Some places don't conform to schedules (ask anyone who's taken a train in India), and in general you want to try to be open to sudden opportunities. They will arise, unexpected; a local will take you under their wing, a traveler will have similar plans.

Keep your wits about you, of course, and judge situations are prudently as you feel necessary. But at the end of the day, get out there and have fun, no matter your plans. Do what you want to do, wherever you want to do it. And be ready for what comes up – time and again, the travelers we talk with say the best things on their trip, were all unplanned.

Posted by Court at 11:05 AM

Saving Money

Traveling usually isn't as expensive as people think it is, but it is hard to stay at or under budget on the road. There are so many temptations – a souvenir here, a meal-out there, a night out on the town here – and it adds up. Not that you shouldn't do these things; on the contrary, you should! But keeping an eye on a few things – in fact, the biggest expenses in travel – will help you be able to afford the fun stuff better. Here are the top 3 culprits for spending too much on the road:

Accommodation: stay in hostels and guesthouses, or with friends, over hotels. This is about finding a decent place to sleep, and a comfortable place to sleep does not need to cost hundreds of dollars a night.
Food: Going out to eat rocks, but the cost adds up quickly to empty your wallet, er, money belt. If you want to dine out, go for breakfast or lunch. Avoid dinner, as that's when restaurants jack up prices. Remember too that hostels often include some sort of breakfast in the cost of your bed, or have breakfast available for a small fee. Hostels and guesthouses and such also often have kitchens, so take advantage of deals on local food and groceries, buy yourself some, and cook 'em up. This can also be a great way to meet people: get a group together for a meal or a shopping excursion, and see what happens.
Transportation: Use local transport, such as buses or subways. Try to avoid taxis, especially in big cities. Walk! Get some exercise, see things at a different, slower pace, and see what unfolds-and walking is always free. Rent a bike: small price, more comfy, faster pace. Here's some more details on how to use what transportation where.

Budgeting and having fun can be packed in the same backpack. Really. Just keep an eye on the above, and hey, you never know – maybe you'll even keep back a little cash to put towards your next trip. Maybe. But have fun on this one first.

Posted by Court at 11:05 AM

Travel Documents

What documents will you or might you need? (By the way, what you need for a country varies with your citizenship and where you're traveling. Instead of listing links on this page, the Google-powered search box on this site will help you find what you need for your nationality.)

Passport. If you don't have this, you ain't going anywhere out of the country. Passports take a few weeks to process, so apply early. Once you have your passport, scan the ID page and email the scan to your inbox; if your passport is lost or stolen, printing out the copy can help you get a new one. Also bring a copy of your birth certificate, for the same reason.
Visas (where needed). This varies by where you're going, and what nations you're a citizen of. Checking with embassies and consulates (most of which will have some sort of website) for the destination country will tell you what you need to do.
Tickets. Most your tickets will be paper: bus, train, some air (e-tickets are widely, but not universally used). Be sure to have a paper copy of your itinerary, where applicable; usually if you reserve your ticket online an itinerary will be emailed to you, and you can keep that in your inbox and print it out from cybercafes as you go.
Passes. These are anything from Eurail passes to any other documentation you need for foreign travel.

Seem like a fair bit of paper? Yep, but you will use it on the way, therefore lightening your load as you go. Some things, like an itinerary, you only need on the day; chuck it once the flight's over. Keeping digital copies in your email inbox also means you less to carry.

Posted by Court at 11:05 AM

Transportation

Getting around anywhere has its share of difficulties too, but these pointers should help remedy them. When figuring out how you'll travel to and around a place, keep this in mind:

Depending on budget and schedule, either fly, or take the train or bus when traveling long distances (moving, say, between countries and major cities). Or, in the case of island-hopping, you'll need to sort out a ferry.
In the city, either walk or use public transport. European cities especially are known for their compactness and walkability, and what better way to see a place?
The cities are also known for the difficulty of driving and parking in town. Save your rental car money until you're ready to explore the surrounding region and countryside. Rail and bus transportation also is less reliable and more restrictive outside of cities, whereas renting a car lets you travel at your own pace, to wherever you want to go.

Posted by Court at 11:05 AM

Visas, Tourism & Government

For one reason or another, you may have to deal with another country's government - not exactly easy or fun. Use the links below to cut through some of that governmental red tape. If you know a site that you think should be included here, contact us with the URL and a brief description of why it's useful.

EmbassyWorld.com
Search for any of the world's embassies and consulates. You can also check visa requirements for every country in the world.

FirstGovt.com
"The World's Number 1 Govt. Portal" allows you to navigate the structure of any country's government, so you can find the info or office you need.

Global Passport & Visa Services
We expedite US passports in 72 hours. Visas from all consulates. Brazil visa expert. Visit our website to download applications & requirements. 800-644-1642.

Thailand Visas
Keep up to date with visa requirements for Thailand and surrounding countries. Check for news as well on the Myanmar border dispute.

Tourism Offices Worldwide Directory
For every country of the world and every U.S. state, find official tourism offices and other "agencies which provide free, accurate, and unbiased travel information to the public."

U.S. Bureau of Consular Affairs
From travel warnings to passport info, as well as details for foreigners and U.S. citizens travelling to and from the U.S.

Posted by Court at 10:54 AM

Volunteer Abroad Links

There's more to travel than tipple and photos - but you can still do those things, and help your fellow man too. Sometimes it's just nice to flex your altruistic muscles, and volunteer and non-profit organizations, such as the ones below, are the way to go. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, please contact BootsnAll with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

Cosmic Volunteers
US-based non-profit that has volunteer programs in Ecuador, Ghana, India, Nepal, and the Philippines.

Council Exchanges
Council Exchanges helps you find programs all over the world that suit your interests.

Idealist.org
Search over 20,000 nonprofit and volunteer organizations in over 150 countries, to find where and how you can best contribute.

Global Volunteers
Join the teams of volunteers who participate on short-term human and economic development projects worldwide.

Peace Corps
Restricted to Americans, but a great way to learn about new cultures, languages and customs.

ProWorld Service Corps
An organization that places individuals and groups in service-based academic or experiential programs in Peru, Mexico, and Belize.

Sénévolu
Founded in 2002, the Senegalese Association of United Volunteers promotes "community tourism", to benefit local communities economically.

Cross-Cultural Solutions
Gets individuals involved with solving global issues, including health care, education and community development: offers international volunteer programs in 10 countries, with start dates year-round, and lengths-of-stay from 1-12 weeks.

Global Volunteer Network
NZ-based program places people in community aid projects, from environmental work to cultural home stays, in China, Ecuador, Ghana, Nepal and Romania.

VSO
This UK-based international development charity works with volunteers to improve conditions in communities in 74 countries. Check out their site for more information.

Volunteer Program Work in Peru
Live and work in Peru, plus study Spanish in an immersion setting.

Posted by Court at 10:51 AM

How to Study Abroad

Explore the Andes, become fluent in Chinese, become an expert on Italian wines or in French cuisine. There's nothing better than breaking up four years (or more) of monotonous university classes with a term (or two, or three) abroad. Studying abroad takes a lot of planning and consists of much more than just hitting the books in a different scenery. Here are some tips on how to prepare for the experience of a lifetime.

Finding the Right Program
CSA, CEA, CIEE, AHA, CCIS... searching through a sea of acronyms is enough to make your head spin when looking for study abroad opportunities. But the good news is that with so many organizations offering thousands of opportunities, you can be sure to find a program that's as good as tailor-made for your specific needs. There was a time when studying abroad was limited to college students in their early 20s, but these days almost anyone can find a way to pack up their bags and ship out for a semester. Websites like studyabroad.com offer opportunities for everyone from high school students to adults 55 and older and are the perfect place to start if you're making plans to study abroad.

If you are currently a university student, your university probably offers study abroad programs that are geared toward specific majors and allow you to receive credits that will count toward your degree. If you can find one of these that work for you, it's probably your best bet. If none of them seem to be what you had in mind, don't get discouraged, but keep in mind that you've got your work cut out for you. Many schools abroad allow you to apply directly to their school, while others offer programs through organizations like the Center for Study Abroad (CSA) and Cultural Experience Abroad (CEA). Either way you do it, participating in an outside program means lots of communication with professors and academic advisors to make sure that credits abroad will transfer back to your school.

While the nuts and bolts of academic credit are important, don't forget to keep in mind the type of experience you want to have while abroad. Realistically, time spent being immersed in the culture, traveling, learning the language and building relationships with locals will greatly outweigh the time you spend hitting the books. That's really why you wanted to study abroad anyway, right? That's why it's good to keep in mind the size of the city, language and cultural attractions during your search as well.

Preparation
Once you've decided on a program that's right for you (and been accepted, of course), the next step is to begin planning. Depending on where you are going, you'll need to take care of formalities such as getting a passport, applying for a student visa, arranging for flights and applying for financial aid. It's also usually a good idea to get an international student ID card for both the discounts that it affords abroad and for general identification. If you're headed to Europe, a Eurail pass may be another thing you'd like to consider before heading overseas.

After dealing with all of this paperwork (and shelling out a substantial amount of money), packing may seem like the easiest part of your study abroad preparation. All you have to do is toss a couple of things in a bag and you're off, right? Packing, however, is the area where students most often make mistakes.

TAKE ONLY WHAT YOU CAN CARRY! This does not mean only what you can manage to carry in 100-yard spurts. I made this mistake and suffered sore arms and bruised body parts because of it. Remember that you will be navigating foreign transportation systems, speaking a foreign tongue and the last thing you'll want to worry about is whether or not you'll be able to carry your suitcase up the long flights of stairs in the subway tunnels. Not to mention the fact that you call unnecessary attention to yourself by towing an obnoxiously loud rolling duffel bag with squeaky wheels.

So, what's your best bet? I'd recommend a high-capacity backpack that keeps your hands free and your eyes alert. Whether you're staying for a semester or a full year, a backpack should give you plenty of room for everything you'll need to take.

Some packing suggestions:

Comfortable shoes
A good guide book for the region you'll be studying in (Let's Go or Rough Guide are always good bets)
A battery-powered travel alarm clock
Foreign language dictionary
Passport
Any medications and prescriptions you'll need
Debit card (usually the easiest way to get foreign currency that gets the best exchange rate)
A camera and film
Appropriate clothing that's easy to mix and match (before you actually begin to pack, it's probably a good idea to research the climate of the area where you'll be studying and pack accordingly)
Music (helps make long train rides go by faster)
A sleeping bag and a tent can be handy if you plan on camping (a cheap way to see the country you're studying in)
A small pack for daytrips
Make sure to keep all important documents with you at all times.
Pack a change of clothes, or at least underwear, in your carry-on. If your luggage gets lost, you'll be grateful.
Write down contact information for professors and advisors at your university in case you have any questions about credit transfers.
Bring A FEW pictures of family and friends to show to your host family (if you have one) or friends you make abroad

Do NOT pack:

Any appliances (especially because voltage often differs in foreign countries)
Extra toiletries, etc (you'll be able to buy these things if you run out)
Expensive jewelry or valuables
Anything else you're not willing to carry everywhere you go

While you'll be more aware of the material things you bring with you on your trip abroad (mostly due to the dead weight on your back), don't forget to prepare yourself information-wise for the journey. Brushing up on local customs, politics, history, weather, cool places to visit, food and festivals will help prepare you for your time abroad and get you motivated to take full advantage of being overseas. Being a knowledgeable tourist will help you to get more out of your experience and help you relate better to the people that you meet along the way.

An open mind is probably the most important (and weightless) item to scribble onto your "to pack" list. It's easy to get discouraged if you have preconceptions about how the trip will go. Flexibility is the key to getting the most out of your travel experience.

Making the Trip
Not even the most detailed guide can prepare you for the event of actually hopping on a plane and embarking on your study abroad experience. Luggage gets lost, flights and trains get missed and itineraries get broken. The frustration of not being able to communicate your thoughts in another language can be infuriating, and ordering food in a foreign language can bring unpleasant surprises. Culture shock hits everyone at different times and in varying degrees. Homesickness can be minimal at one moment and bowl you over in the next. The key is to keep perspective and only take on as much as you can handle at one time. Either that, or get yourself out there and experience! The only way to become comfortable with a new culture is to find out what it's all about, explore the traditions, meet the people and try your best to relax. Oh, and don't forget about cracking open those books every once in a while.

Posted by Court at 10:47 AM

Fear Factor: Making Adjustments While Studying Abroad

I'm rushing down the corridor of the Madrid Barajas airport. All of the Spanish phrases and words I know are bouncing around in my head like popcorn. My arm is burning and I can hardly feel my fingers from the weight of my rolling duffel bag. Who made these things anyway? I thought they were supposed to make traveling easier. My backpack towers above my head, making it difficult to lean over and drag my duffel bag without falling over. The sweat is pouring off my forehead and my stomach is churning from that mystery meat they gave me on the plane and the cigarette smoke that fills the air. I haven't slept in what seems like an eternity. I'm scared out of my mind. I've wanted to travel abroad since I can remember and for the first time I'm second-guessing the decision. But it's too late. There is no turning back. But I've been in Spain less than an hour, and I already want to go home.

Madrid isn't even my final destination. I'm headed to Oviedo. Oviedo is a small and pleasant town in northern Spain, but I don't know that yet. At this point, Oviedo seems as far away as the depths of hell. Still, I have to figure out how to get there... alone. I've already ruled out taking the bus or a train. This would require taking the metro, which I don't even want to begin to have to deal with. Also, another six or seven hours of travel on a bus sounds about as appealing as stabbing one of those plastic airline forks in my eye. So, I decide to fly, no matter what the cost. This is something I'll regret later, when my funds start running thin.

When I finally find the Iberia Airlines ticket counter, I look like someone has soaked me with a garden hose. I stand there for a moment, gathering my belongings and my thoughts, repeatedly practicing what I will say to the ticket agent once I approach the counter: "Quiero un billete para Oviedo... quiero un billete para Oviedo." The words sound so clear in my head, but when I approach the glass, I have to repeat the phrase three times before the woman in the blue blazer understands what I need. When she speaks back to me, all I hear are muffled sounds through the glass that separates us. She tells me how much my ticket will cost and I lean in close, asking her to repeat. After about the fourth time, she scribbles the number down on a scrap of paper and shoves it against the window. I feel stupid taking the time now to convert the amount of pesetas into dollars, so I just nod and hand her my credit card. I'm zero for one.

When I was planning to study abroad, the difficulties and stresses never really crossed my mind. Promotional signs and pamphlets all over my home university, the University of Oregon, told me that abroad was a "most interesting place to learn." Interesting, mind you, not stressful. Then why was my stomach in knots and my palms sweaty and trembling? Maybe this was just excitement? Pure adrenaline? If I looked at it that way, I could keep myself from having an anxiety attack.

Studying abroad had always been part of my university plan. Both of my older sisters had done it and I didn't see how my college experience could be complete without delving into another culture. So, I decided on Spain, a place where I could perfect my Spanish, complete some Spanish credits and travel throughout Europe. Because I wanted to learn Spanish, it was never an option for me to study abroad for less than a year. I'd heard that after just a few months I'd just be getting the hang of the language and culture, so the longer I stayed there, the better.

After deciding on Spain, the next challenge was to find a place within the country where I would want to spend that year. My university offered programs to Sevilla, Barcelona and Madrid, but I was afraid these cities would be too big and touristy. My biggest fear was arriving and being surrounded by flag-waving Americans. That was when I discovered the Oviedo program. It was advertised as a small town with little tourism, set in the rolling hills of northern Spain. That was all I needed to hear before I picked up the application and signed myself up. Before I knew it, I was packing my bags and getting on a plane. Until that point, I had just been going through the motions, making plans to go without actually thinking of that day when I would step off the plane into unfamiliar territory. They had made it sound so easy. Why, then, did I feel so petrified?

Once I finally arrived in Oviedo, I couldn't believe that I was there. I was literally pinching myself. I expected someone at any moment to tell me that it was all a practical joke, that really I was still in Oregon. Then, I met my host mother and it all started to sink in. She spoke like rapid fire, and I quickly realized how much I was going to have to work on my Spanish. I could understand most of what she rambled, but felt dumbstruck every time she expected a response. I tripped over my words and fought off embarrassment with every syllable. It was going to be a long year.

Before going to Spain, I expected to adjust quickly and immerse myself into the culture with minimal problems. I soon found out, however, that it was going to be a lot more difficult than I had originally thought. Buying a newspaper, ordering coffee, introducing myself to my host mother's friends – everything was a small victory in and of itself.

Walking down the street was no longer simply walking down the street; I made a new discovery at every turn and met a new challenge with every step. I wanted to take advantage of every spare moment that I had, but still maintain some feeling of relaxation and comfort. My head was spinning with the amount of trips and activities, bars and people I had within reach. Is this what they meant by culture shock?

Before long, the nervousness dissipated and I found myself looking forward to each new experience with a sense of adventure and excitement. With each passing day I thought less and less about the friends I had left back home and more about friends I could be making. I learned to find satisfaction in the little things. I could order for myself at a bar, I had made a few Spanish friends, I didn't hesitate to ask someone for directions and I'd figured out how to use the coffee maker at my host mother's house. To me, these were all major accomplishments. I'd been tossed completely out of my element and had finally found my little niche on the other side of the Atlantic.

Time flew. By the time spring break came, I had already begun to think about leaving in June. My plane was set to leave on June 13, and I panicked to think that I'd soon be on a plane back home. My initial paranoia and nervousness had turned into complete comfort. Spain was my new home; there was no way I could leave just yet.

Frantic, I changed my plane ticket so that I could stay another three months.

I spent the summer exploring more of the country I had grown to love, traveling, wandering through the countryside and feeling a certain sense of urgency as I realized how little time I had left.

The day before my plane left for the States, I caught an overnight bus to Madrid. This time, my heart sank instead of beating furiously as it had done on my trip to Spain almost a year before. Fear is nonexistent. By this time, I have taken buses all over the country, north to south, and east to west.

I kick myself for having flown to Oviedo from Madrid when I first arrived to Spain. If I had just taken the bus, I might have more than five euros in my pocket to make the trip back. But there's nothing I can do about it now.

When I get to the bus station in Madrid, I heave my overflowing backpack on my tired back and drag my rolling duffel bag behind me. Both of my bags are a lot heavier than I remember them being on the trip out. I struggle to the metro station and shuffle onto the number six line. I have to switch trains once more before arriving at the airport. I have no questions about where to go or what to do, but if I did, I would know how to ask them. Unlike on the day of my arrival, I know exactly where I am going, even though I am heading there unwillingly.

When I arrive in Newark, giant-sized American flags and the harsh New Jersey accent greet me in the airport terminal. People are rushing all around me, complaining about lines and tickets and pushing me aside. I'm back in the United States and it feels like a foreign land. I'm almost surprised when I hear a woman behind me say, "Excuse me," as she nudges by.

As I wait for my plane to Denver to take off, I order coffee and an old-fashioned American brownie at a coffee shop called Jake's Coffeehouse. The woman behind the counter catches me off-guard when she asks if I want whipped cream on top of my mocha. Why not? I am in the land of excess. I'm looking forward to indulging in these sweet treats, but when I sit down to enjoy them, the brownie is dry and the coffee tastes watered down. The whipped cream is the highlight of my first American indulgence in a year. I feel a pang of homesickness... for Spain. What I wouldn't do right now for a café con leche and a chocolate palmera. I have been in the States less than an hour, and I already want to go back home.

Posted by Court at 10:47 AM

Student Travel Resources

Student Travel Resources spares you the stress and of booking a trip by putting links together in one location.

Posted by Court at 10:11 AM

Student Spring Break

Student Spring Break takes the hassle out of planning. Check out cheap packages to the hottest destinations.

Posted by Court at 10:09 AM

Working Holiday Visas & Work Programs Links

From picking fruit to pulling pints to pushing pencils, below you will find sites to help you work abroad - legally. If you've found a site that you think should be included, send contact us with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful. Please note: we do not process or offer visas, we just provide links to resources that can help you.

Programs & Work Exchanges

BUNAC
Working holiday programs for young people. For some nationalities, you may need to be a student.

Camp America
You might as well get paid for coming to the States. The 30-year-old Camp America places people worldwide in U.S. summer camps.

Council Exchanges
From wherever you are in the world, to wherever you want to go, the Council can help you get a work visa – well, as long as you're a student, anyway.

USIT
Work & travel programs for students and youths. Choose from Europe, Oz, USA, Japan, China and Jamaica.

Willing Workers On Organic Farms (WWOOF)
Worldwide agricultural work exchange program. Get your hands dirty in exchange for room and board.

Workaway
Promotes fair exchange (work for room/board) between travellers and hosts who seek help with a range of activities.

Working Holiday Guru
A site for Aussie travellers that gives all the details to get you started on a working holiday visa in each country that offers them.

Jobfinders & Other Resources

Anywork Anywhere
This cool, swank-looking site clues you in on listings for legit, casual work all over the world, and also gives destination info.

Cool Works
Find leads and openings for jobs in the U.S., as well as listings of organizations that can help travellers who want to work in the States.

Escape Artist
Resources for ex-pats and those looking to work or retire overseas.

Hot Recruit
Temporary recruitment site that offers thousands of national and international jobs. First UK site to cater specifically for students and antipodeans.

Live-in Jobs for Backpackers in the UK
Since 1996, Dee Cooper has been helping travellers find live-in seasonal and summer jobs. The service is free, and she also can help with hotel jobs.

Payaway: Working Holidays and Jobs Abroad
Although "mainly aimed at young Brits," Payaway has info to help anyone trying to navigate the red tape often involved in getting legal employment outside one's home country.

TravelJobs.com.au
Jobs database for travel, tourism and hospitality positions in Australia and New Zealand. make sure you have a working visa before you apply though.

Travellers At Work
Free service links travelers to hundreds of job openings throughout Australia, plus services from mail forwarding to skills training.

Posted by Court at 10:05 AM

Study Abroad & Student Exchange Programs Links

Participating in a student exchange or international student program is a great way to travel, to introduce yourself to international travel and, oftentimes, ensure that you don't spend much time studying. You'll be having too much fun, and below are resources to help you expand your educational horizons. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, contact us with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

Resources

Pacific Challenge
Adventure travel, personal and leadership development, cultural immersion and optional uni credit await in these intense programs.

Studyabroad.com
Anywhere in the world, anytime, any level of education from high school to post-grad. Offers destination info, travel guides, and school and course details.

Cultural Experiences Abroad (CEA)
Started in 1996 by two students who while abroad were frustrated by a lack of resources for the international student, CEA now offers programs in 19 cities throughout 8 countries.

Yahoo! Study Abroad
This extensive listing gives everything from programs for, to schools in various countries.

Resources

USIT's Programmes in Ireland
Arranges and designs summer schools and study tours for individuals and groups interested in visiting Ireland.

GoAbroad.com
Search by subject or country for worldwide study-abroad and educational opportunties. Many of the listings here also don't pose additional costs - so they're cheap!

Council Exchanges
Hit the books abroad, through the Council's long-established student exchange programs.

Posted by Court at 10:05 AM

Planning a UK Working Holiday: Part 2

Accommodation When You Arrive

We booked through First Contact, a company that has Australian offices. This meant that we could discuss our options with an Aussie representative and paid for our first week in Aussie dollars (much less confusing). For AU$325 each my travel buddy and I get transfers from Heathrow to our lodge upon arrival, 7 nights accommodation in our own twin room (price is cheaper if you don't mind dorm accommodation), Continental breakfast each morning, an orientation session and free day trip, free mail and luggage holding service for 6 months after you leave (very handy if you don't have a fixed address or want to go on a holiday but don't want to pay to store excess luggage).

This is only one of many agencies that help you settle into London life. I'll keep you posted on what the accommodation is like anyway, since I haven't actually stayed there yet. Check out www.1cgroup.com for prices, piccies and London info

Money

How Much to Take
A minimum of AU$4500 is currently required to obtain a working visa in Britain (this is after flight tickets and any things you pay for before you go). If you don't have this much money yet, keep saving, and don't try to go with less.

Banking Options
Setting up bank accounts in London has been known to be difficult for travellers and working holidaymakers to the UK. If you don't set up your accounts before you go, take along as many references as possible (e.g., bank reference which costs around AU$15 from your bank, and a reference from your previous landlord).

I set up my bank accounts through Thomas Cook travel in advance. A fee is charged to set up and deposit your AU$4500 in a branch of HSBC, one of Britain's well-known banks. You receive your account info and PIN before you leave, and you pick up your debit/credit cards and cheque books from Regent Street London when you arrive. If you are interested, check out Thomas Cook, but remember they need at least 5 weeks to process to your account, so don't leave this until the last minute.

Packing

Packing your whole life into a suitcase and a few bags may seem like a distressing task at first. But if you pack strategically and carefully you will have everything you need and still not exceed the baggage allowance (usually 20 kg for economy, with a 5 kg carry-on allowance).

The first step is to obtain suitable luggage. Think hard before you buy! You will need a suitcase with wheels. Don't even try to lug around the other variety. Remember, this suitcase will be travelling to many locations and may be subject to much handling in airports, etc. You need something sturdy that will last. You may be interested in a backpack if you are planning lots of off-the-road backpacking. You will also need a day pack suitable for taking on day trips and excursions.

Your piece of carry-on luggage must not exceed size requirements. Think about what else you will be using it for. I like to travel with an overnight carry bag. This can then be used as a weekend or overnight bag for short trips away. On the plane you can use this bag for a change of clothes, your toiletries, books, magazines, your Discman and camera, etc.

Do not keep money in your carry-on bag! Keep your valuables and important documents close to your person at all times. If you are travelling alone, take your wallet/purse to the bathrooms with you. Make sure you buy a UK power point adapter before you go: power points are different in the UK, so you will need one of these if you want to take a hairdryer, electric shaver or mobile phone charger. They are readily available in department stores, luggage and travel shops for around AU$10. There are many great websites that can help with info packing and what to take.

Staying in Touch

Email would have to be the easiest, fastest and cheapest method of communication with friends and family back home. Internet cafes can be found everywhere, and many offer cheap rates and discounts to students. Net cafes are also great for meeting other travellers over a cup of coffee.

An alternative would be to take your own email device, such as your laptop or Pocket Palm. A reasonable cheap and space-saving alternative is the Pocket Mail system. This is basically a keyboard with a modem that looks like a personal organiser. These are great if you use email a lot but don't really require access to the net on a regular basis (you can use cafes for this). Write and store all your emails offline, and store all your addresses. When sending, you simply need a phone (home, public or mobile). Ring the local Pocket Mail call number, hold the device up to your phone and instantly your emails are sent! For more information and pricing see your local phone shop or visit www.pocketmail.com.au.

Find about cheap phonecards before you leave home. You can save up to 90% on overseas calls with some services, and some provide free voicemail services so that your friends can leave you message wherever you are.

Things to Organise and Think about before You Leave

Cancelling internet, mobile, cable TV connections, telephone, electricity, subscriptions to magazines or club accounts.
Changing your address with the taxation department and making sure you tax return is in for the year.
Let the Australian Electoral Commission know you will be OS, so you don't get into trouble for not voting!
Organise a Power of Attorney/Wills – as morbid as it sounds, write or update your will and organise a family member or solicitor to be a power of attorney if necessary. If you need someone to deal with bills or finances in Aus this is a must.
Decide whether you want to leave your bank accounts open in Australia and make any cancellations where necessary.
Try to pay off credit cards before you go, to avoid having to make payments in Australian dollars from London to Australian banks.

Well, there are a few things to help you out! I hope this guide has been useful. I will write again once I've arrived in London, and will let you know if there was anything I forgot to do or wish I would've done before I left. I hope I have thought of most things! Good luck with your travels!

Posted by Court at 10:05 AM

Planning a UK Working Holiday: Part 1

The United Kingdom is undoubtedly the most popular working holiday destination for young travellers from Australia and New Zealand in particular. I hope this article inspires and helps some of you with your travels. I've written this especially for other Aussies who plan to embark on a working holiday to Britain – just like me! I hope non-Aussies travellers can also make use of some of the information and links. I've been asked countless planning questions by friends, and even strangers that I've spoken to on the bus about travel. So now I can just give them this web address and save raving on for hours!

I first got the travel bug in 2000 and started planning furiously! It was something I had always wanted to do... but the timing was never right. Now, in August 2001, I soon leave for the adventure of my lifetime. Here are all my best planning tips and info for other Aussies doing the same thing as me. I had a great time searching and scouring the web, other travellers' memories, books, travel agents etc etc etc – BUT it would have been nice to have some of the info easily laid out for me. I've left out a lot, of course, (save that for my travel book one day hehehe). Okay here goes...

How & When to Travel

Ummm by plane would be preferential, unless you like swimming (a lot). Basically shop around a lot here, and get as many quotes as you can before you decide on a flight. You will pay more travelling to the UK in summer (Aussie winter). However, the transition to a colder climate will be easier and there will be an abundance of jobs. Do what is right for you; any time is a good time to travel.

One thing that I have been told by everyone who has been to London: don't get a direct flight! We decided to pay a bit extra and go with a 'better' airline in order to avoid those pesky unscheduled stopovers (e.g. friends on cheaper deals have had up to 5 short stopovers waiting around in airports with no chance to sleep). We will stop in Japan overnight – get to sleep in a hotel, shower, eat, play and then board another plane to London. Nice.

Things to Organise before You Leave

Passports
If you don't already have one, apply for your Australian passport. Get a form at your nearest post office and book in for an appointment.

Visas/British Passports/Ancestral Visas
I am lucky enough to have British ancestry, so instead of the 2-year working holiday visa, I can work full time for up to 4 years, after which I can either apply for British residency or simply renew for another 4 years.

Here's a quick rundown on what kind of visa you can get:

Working Holiday Visa. This is a 2-year visa which will be the one most of you will get. It's available for 17-27 year olds (although I have heard this may have increased to 29 years). This visa is non renewable, i.e. once you have been here 2 years, you can't renew for another 2 years. This visa will allow you to take employment for up to half the length of your stay (e.g. travel half the year, work the rest or work casually/part time all year). The type of work should be incidental to your holidaying, not to further your career. The most common jobs are barwork, nannying, temping, etc. You also need to prove you have at least AU$4500 to prove you have the money to support yourself until you get a job. You need to have your visa before you leave the country, and it is a lengthy process to complete the forms and wait for them to come back from the Consulate. For more info contact the British High Commission in Canberra. The easiest way to apply is to download all info and forms from the website: www.uk.emb.gov.au.
Ancestry Employment Visa A 4-year renewable visa which is gained through British ancestry (e.g. a grandparent). This is what I have, and it gives me the advantage of being able to work full-time, plus the option of applying for British residency after 4 years.
British Passport. If your parents are British you may be able to apply for dual citizenship (although lots of old-fashioned rules and regulations apply, e.g. if you are an illegitimate child born to a British father you cannot get this passport).

A handy questionnaire on the website www.uk.emb.gov.au will answer all your questions. After answering, it will tell you what you are eligible for and what documentation you must complete.

Passes to Buy before You Go
London is very expensive, especially when you are spending your hard-earned Aussie dollars and haven't starting making pounds. Here are some things you can organise and pay for at home to save you heaps!

Youth Hostel Membership. A must if you will be backpacking or staying in hostels. Go to yha.com.au. An annual membership is around AU$50.
International Youth Travel Card or Student Travel Card (IYTC or ISTC). Check out www.statravel.com.au or www.istc.org. Tthis card is a must for discounts on loads of stuff. It's only AU$16.50, and you can use it in more than 100 different countries.
The London Pass. I bought this online for £79 before I left Aussie. You may be able to buy it through your travel agent, but buying online is the only way to get free the 6-day transport card. £79 is for a 6-day pass with entry into over 60 attractions/museums/places of interests, plus discounts at eateries, etc. Book online and get 6 days free transport only. Buying this before you go will save you a packet. Check out the benefits on londonpass.com.
Other cards such as the Great British Heritage Pass, the London Go See card and the London Visitor Travelcard are also options. Ask about these at travel agents or check out www.visitbritain.bta.org.au.

Useful Organisations & Websites

www.bta.org.uk: British Tourist Authority
www.visitbritain.btaorg.au: Organise discount passes
www.thegumtree.com: Great website that sends you daily emails on whatever you're interested in. For example, I get info on bar jobs, healthcare jobs, events/gigs, flats/houses for rent. It's great to get an idea of the pay rates for different jobs and the prices for renting or sharing a house or bedsit.
www.working-holiday.co.uk
www.live-injob.co.uk: Think about work before you leave home
www.iep-australia.com: Working holiday scheme

Posted by Court at 10:05 AM

Travel Vaccines: What You Need and What You Don't

Hate sharp, pointy objects wielded by masochist nurses? Yeah, me too. However, here are some vaccines worth going closing your eyes, gritting your teeth and going under the needle for, all for safety. For more info on deciding which meds are best for you, check out Drug Trouble: The Travel Vaccine Debate.

Vaccine: Hepatitis A
What Does It Do: Prevents Hepatitis A, a disease affecting the liver, causing high fever and abdominal pain for a period of 12 weeks. Infection results from the consumption of contaminated or dirty fruit, vegetables or water, and can be passed from person to person.
Who Needs It: Travelers going just about anywhere.
How Much Is It Going to Cost: $50-100 bucks. Lifetime coverage requires 2 shots, although one will work for 1-2 years.
Chances of Infection: It's one of the more expensive, but highly recommended, vaccines. Travel to high risk areas (basically, most countries outside of Western Europe, Australia and the United States) without the vaccine is discouraged, as chances of infection are high. Those without the vaccine should avoid dirty or damaged food or contaminated water. However, this can be very difficult to do.
Alternatives and Other Notes: Hepatitis A has no cure.

Vaccine: Hepatitis B
What Does It Do: Protects against Hepatitis B, a disease passed from person-to-person through bodily fluids. Symptoms are similar to those presented by Hepatitis A, with an equal recovery time.
Who Needs It: Anyone going anywhere.
How Much Is It Going to Cost: Series of three shots are required, for less than $50 bucks a pop. Start receiving vaccinations months before you depart.
Chances: Not as high as Hepatitis A, but still no walk in the park to avoid the disease. Stay away from any piercing of the skin and NO UNPROTECTED SEX! Try not to touch anyone - sweat will pass it along too.
Alternatives and Other Notes: Hepatitis B has no treatments. Ten percent of all suffers will become chronic carries. Approximately 40% of the population has been affected with the disease.

Vaccine: Japanese Encephalitis
What Does It Do: Bad, bad things. Passed via mosquitos in agricultural areas, this disease doesn't show symptoms in 99% percent of its 'victims'. However, the remainder must suffer through a disease that attacks your brain, affects your nervous system and kills you 30% of the time, causing brain damage in 50% of the survivors.
Who Needs It: Asia visitors, especially those in India.
How Much Is It Going to Cost: Quite a bit...better stash away at least $200 bucks.
Chances: Low, low, low chance of infection, but oh so nasty.
Alternatives and Other Notes: Cover up and cross your fingers that you aren't one of the unlucky ones. Vaccination requires a three-dose disbursement over a six week time period.

Vaccine: Meningococcal Meningitis
What Does It Do: Prevents meningitis, passed from person-to-person, especially through coughing. This is a particularly nasty bacteria, which enters into your spinal cord tissue, causing fever, vomiting, rash, and, often times, death.
Who Needs It: Africa travelers and those planning to be surrounded by lots of people.
How Much Is It Going to Cost: It'll set you back $50-$100.
Chances: Many people carry this disease without knowing it, increasing your risk. When caught, the disease is fatal 50% of the time without treatment and still 10% of the time under a doctor's care.
Alternatives and Other Notes: You can't really do anything to avoid this one, unless you plan on walking around with a face mask and avoiding people.

Vaccine: Polio
What Does It Do: A single booster of your childhood shot will take care of you for the rest of your life, which has been virtually wiped out in a majority of the world. Polio is passed through contaminated food and water, and can cause paralysis and even death.
Who Needs It: India Seekers
How Much Is It Going to Cost: Little
Chances: You probably aren't going to get this disease, but for a low amount of money, it can result in a high peace of mind.
Alternatives and Other Notes: Shots and oral drugs are available.

Vaccine: Tickborne Encephalitis
What Does It Do: This tick-borne illness doesn't do anything to most people. The unlucky 10% get stuck with the flu, and one-in-ten of those will come down with severe symptoms, which can result in death.
Who Needs It: Hikers, Campers, Woodsy Peeps
How Much Is It Going to Cost: A pretty penny
Chances: Pretty darn low
Alternatives and Other Notes: Avoid ticks. Meaning, avoid heavily forested areas and check thoroughly for 'em afterwards and be on the lookout for that 'flu feeling'. DEET and skin coverings can do wonders as well.

Vaccine: Typhoid
What Does It Do: Although it only has a protection rate of 80%, the typhoid vaccines helps diminish the risk of this disease, contacted via contaminated food and water. Without antibiotics after infection, the disease is fatal is 10-20% of the time. Symptoms include fever, headache, weakness, and rash.
Who Needs It: Travelers venturing to areas where food and water contamination is a serious concern, such as Africa, Indian Subcontinent and parts of Asia.
How Much Is It Going to Cost: Relatively inexpensive.
Chances: Typhoid can be cured with antibiotics with early detection, and is affective 99% of the time. The disease kills half a million people worldwide each year. If you suspect infection, see a doctor immediately.
Alternatives and Other Notes: Oral tablets or injections are available, with differing protection lengths.

Vaccine: Yellow Fever
What Does It Do: Prevents yellow fever, a disease with flu-like traits in its less-severe forms but yellowing of the skin and internal bleeding in worse scenarios. Passed via mosquitos.
Who Needs It: Travelers visiting warm, tropical areas, both rural and urban.
How Much Is It Going to Cost: Some serious dough.
Chances: Although your chances of infection are low, if you have multiple stops on your itinerary, your chances of having to show proof of vaccination before entry into another country are high.
Alternatives and Other Notes: Spray DEET like there is no tomorrow and cover up!

Posted by Court at 09:59 AM

Hook Me Up: Malaria Drugs

Malaria is an evil, nasty virus passed through female (yep, only the chicks) night-stalking (yep, they mostly 'hunt' after hours) mosquito (yep, you can get something this bad from something this small).

Malaria-carrying mosquitos make their homes in the damp lowlands of Asia, Africa, and Latin America. Areas in the pacific and sub-Saharan Africa are the most infested. Malaria parasites dwell in mosquito saliva so when the lady of the night sucks blood, she's also gives a few thousand icky cretins in exchange. There are four different types of bugs, one of which (falciparum) is particularly nasty and is responsible for a death rate around 5% when treated in a advanced countries.

Once the mosquito-human bonding experience is complete, these new friends head toward the liver. After spending one to two weeks building up their red blood cell-attacking army, these parasites re-emerge, causing fever, sweats, chills, muscle soreness, exhaustion and headaches. Most of the time, people are all right after a few days. However, if the severe form of malaria is left untreated, restricted breathing, coma and death can result. This occurs in approximately .05% of all malaria cases - but still kills more than a million people a year, most of them African children. More info can be found on the Center for Disease Control Malaria Fact Sheet.

Anyone traveling for longer than a week to a malaria-risk area is usually encouraged to consider malaria drugs. Due to the evolution and mutation of the disease in different parts of the world, treatments have become increasingly complex and should be discussed with a qualified physician. Many of these drugs have rare side effects that include nausea, headaches, disorientation, vomiting and itching. For additional info, check out CDC Malaria Drugs.

Atovaquone and Proguanil, common brand name Malarone, combines the two drugs to prevent malaria. It must be taken daily, starting 2 days before travel to the risk-area and ending a week after leaving. This is not often prescribed and is usually given as an alternative to other medications.

Chloroquine, common brand name: Aralen,is the cheapest drug available, and the most widely distributed, with rare side effects. However, chloroquine is no longer affective in many countries and thus no longer used. Chloroquine must be taken once a week, starting one week before arrival and ending one month after departure.

Doxycycline, common brand names: Doxine 100 or Vibramycin, may have been prescribed to you in the past to fight a bacterial infection. Although it only needs to be taken 1-2 days before arrival, it must be taken daily to fight malaria, and continued for a month after leaving the malaria-risk location. Nausea, yeast infections and susceptibility to sunburn are common side affects. As an tetracycline antibiotic, the use of doxycycline diminishes the effectiveness of birth control pills. Another form of birth control should be used.

Hydroxychloroquine sulfate, common brand name Plaquenil, must be taken once a week. Treatment begins a week before arrival and ends four weeks after leaving.

Mefloquine, common brand name: Lariam, is the most widely known malaria drug, due to its 'vivid dreams' side effect, which plagues some users. Severe side effects can cause hallucinations, anxiety and seizures. The drug must be taken once a week, starting one week before arrival and ending one month after departure. Anyone with a history of epilepsy or mental illness is discouraged from taking Lariam.

Posted by Court at 09:58 AM

Check Your Change: The Euro Cometh

On January 1, 2002, all countries involved in the European Union (except Britain) will change currency to the euro (€). This is fantastic news for travellers, who will no longer have to change currency half a dozen times during a trip, be stuck with pocketloads of unchangeable coins, and have to do hasty mental conversions from one currency to another, but what about the people of Europe? How do they feel about the loss of the franc, deutchmark, markka, crown, punt etc. – those national symbols of a country, its economy?

I personally would have thought that there would be much more protest and anxiety amongst the peoples of Europe about to lose their everyday coins and bills. Especially in countries such as Ireland and Germany who at the moment have relatively strong curencies. They will not lose purchasing power in comparison to their economically weaker neighbours with the introduction of the Euro but, if the value of the euro drops after the continent has adopted it, the populations may think it would have been better to stick with their former, stronger currencies. In other words, I would have expected that the mixed pool of economically disciplined countries, and more of those which may be more lax, would have cast doubt in the minds of the citizens of Europe regarding the future strengh of the euro. But there dosen't seem to be any political hesitation. Maybe the rallies were staged when the concept of the euro was introduced, and people are now resigned to the inevitable. Perhaps they even welcome their new monetary system?

In any event, Ireland and Germany are both very strong EU, and therefore euro, supporters. Perhaps this is because, after WW2, the concept of Europe was a way "in" for Germany politically, and because the EU has given a lot of financial development funds to the previously economically struggling Ireland. This traditional loyalty does not, however, help to dispel the ever-present fears that the euro won't perform well on the international market. It is probable that this will in turn disappear when the euro is applied across the continent as the everyday currency.

Whereas most people are relatively unconcerned with the engulfing of their traditional currency by that of the euro, one group of people are particularly worried. The conversion to the new money will be quite painless for the young, but the older generation will find it especially difficult to abandon their old system and adjust to the new currency. They are not the only ones either. Whereas most people are resigned to the letting go of their franc etc, they do worry about the period of time just after the changeover, when the prices will no longer make any sense. In France, things will seem cheaper (FF50 being worth around €7.62), so people are concerned that they will spend too much. Making this fear worse is the number of shopkeepers keen on making a profit out of peoples' confusion, by raising the price of goods during the conversion to euro.

In order to combat this apprehension, the EU has produced a number of ads to publicise "our money" as well as many different infomercials, appealing to all members of the family, that answer the most common concerns citizens have about changing currency. Governments have set up websites and ad campaigns, have posted information and pocket converters to all households, and held local information meetings, all to ready their populations for the big day next year. Shops already list their prices in the two currencies, hoping to familiarise their customers with the new money before January 1.

In Europe, the majority consider the introduction of the euro to be a good thing. They see it as a way to financially unite the European Union, without compromising each country's national identity. They accept that it had to happen, and will probably embrace "their money". It will certainly make dealing with Europe in terms of money easier for international business and travellers alike, and may, as it is hoped, present a challenge to the dominance of the greenback (€1 is approx. equal to US$1).

But all this will take time, time for the populations to adjust to the new bits of change finding their way into pockets and wallets across the continent. In the meantime, I will be saving those pieces of previously unchangeable shrapnel from all my cross-European voyages. Who knows? In 50 years time they might be valuable museum pieces.

Posted by Court at 09:57 AM

A Guide to the Euro

On January 1, 1999 the euro became the official currency of 11 countries: Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Portugal and Spain. The United Kingdom, Denmark, Sweden and Greece can choose to join at a later time.

The exchange rates between these 11 countries' currencies are established, but the Euro will not be used for cash transactions until January 1, 2002. On that date individual countries' currencies (the mark, franc, etc.) will cease to be issued, and the euro will be legal tender for all monetary transactions. Denominations for the new euro currency will be issued in amounts of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 for coins, and 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 500 for banknotes.

The national currency of the participating countries may be used during a transition period from January 1, 2002 to July 1, 2002. During this period the price of goods will be quoted in both local and euro currency.

Currently, traveler's checks may be purchased in euros and can save on exchange fees. For example, if you are converting francs to marks, francs first are converted to euros, and then the euros are converted to marks. Therefore, it will pay to purchase only small amounts of local currency. To try these conversions for yourself visit this web site. To convert directly from U.S. dollars (or any other currency) to euros, try here.

For the U.S. traveler, exchange rates until July 1, 2002 will depend on the exchange rate between the U.S. dollar and the euro. For example, if the U.S. dollar goes up 5% against the euro, the number of francs, marks, etc. for the dollar will also go up 5%. However, euro prices for the same goods can be higher or lower in different countries. Currencies of non-participating countries will continue to move independently against the U.S. dollar.

The euro is now the official currency for conducting banking transactions in the member countries; therefore credit card purchases made in local currency will be converted and charged to your bankcard based on the euro-US dollar exchange rate.

In the end monetary transactions will be simplified, as you no longer juggle francs, marks, lire, etc., and prices on the same goods in different countries will be easy to compare.

Posted by Court at 09:57 AM

Money Links

Unfortunately, we don't have any links that will increase your travel budget, but the sites below - for currency converters, traveller's cheques and locations of ATM's worldwide - might help you manage your cash a little better. And who knows: maybe you'll be able to stretch it just another country more. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, contact us with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

Currency Converter
Comprehensive and easy-to-use converter with hundreds of currencies.

X-Rates Calculator
Very simple calculator with limited currencies.

Universal Currency Converter
Currency info on 180 currencies for those hard-to-find exchanges.

Visa Card ATM Locator
Find Visa card ATM's worldwide, not to mention some other useful card info.

Mastercard ATM Locator
Same as above for Mastercard, Maestro and Cirrus cards.

Posted by Court at 09:48 AM

Maps and Directions Links

Below you will find links to sites that we think offer good maps, directions and ways to find your path. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, please contact BootsnAll with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

Maps & Directions

World Factbook Maps
Great selection of the CIA's public domain PDF reference maps.

FreeTrip
Figure out point-to-point routes and facilities along the way for your next road trip.

Maps.com
The name says it all. Buy maps here.

MapQuest
In addition to driving directions and the like, there are also travel guides and live traffic reports for different cities.

MapBlast
Features include MyMapBlast: save your favorite maps, addresses and trips.

How Far Is It?
Has a cool search tool that calculates the distance between any two cities.

Other Resources

NASA's Visible Earth
Atmospheric, biospheric, cryospheric, oceanic - see your world, and different aspects of it, through this innovative NASA site.

National Geographic Map Machine
Cool plasma maps, courtesy of National Geographic's mapping engine.

MSN Terra Server
Use this terraserver to locate many areas in North America. Very cool.

University of Texas Map Library
Tons of maps, both current and historical, all on-line. Also has links to other map sites.

Posted by Court at 09:44 AM

Learn the Language Links

So, fancy yourself a traveller? Sure, you can pack the pack and trek the trek - but can you talk the locals' talk? You should always at least know survival phrases ("Where's the hostel?" "How much is beer?"). Learning a language, too, greatly enriches your travels. Below are links to sites we think can help you out. If you've found a site that we should include here, please contact BootsnAll with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

Products & Programs

Language Learning Center
The fastest, easiest way to learn a new language. CD and online courses provide the most effective, interactive instruction available, anytime, anywhere.

101Language.com
A specialist in translation products, from electronic pocket translators to software to cassette courses.

AmeriSpan
Learn Spanish whilst studying, living and travelling through Spain, Mexico, the Caribbean, or Central or South America.

Berlitz
This long-time lingual source for travellers provides "self-study language instruction and cross-cultural training," such as phrase books and travel guides.

Foreign Languages for Travelers
In travlang.com's two-step process, select your native tongue, then which one of 74 languages you'd like to learn.

Irish Language Courses
Learn the Irish, in Ireland, starting with Oideas Gael's site. Also answer all your questions with a detailed FAQ.

Languages Abroad
People from around the world can go around the world to study the language of their choice.

Living Language
This site from Fodor's and Random House uses categorized lists to teach useful, travel-related phrases from French, German, Italian and Spanish.

Phrase Books
A BootsnAll listing of language and phrase books, organized by continent and available for online purchase.

< Other Resources

AltaVista Translations
Paste in any block of text or - and this is what we like - any URL, select your languages, and press 'Translate.' Fast, handy and pretty accurate.

The Alternative Dictionaries
"Read and input words... not normally included in dictionaries." Want to curse in Swedish? Then also check out the cool link list.

FreeTranslation.com
Provides translations between many major languages. Also offers translation services and tools for businesses and individuals.

How to Swear in Foreign Languages
Learn those really handy things the books don't tell. And if you don't like it...

PSEUDOdictionary.com
Non-lexicographical words (colloquialisms, webspeak, slang). Have a few verbarian creations of your own? You can also submit entries.

The Rosetta Project
Native speakers and linguists are creating a permanent archive, a Rosetta stone, of over 1,000 of the world's languages – many of which, they suspect, will not be spoken in 100 years.

Slanguages
The Queen's English is fine - if you're the Queen. Here's it for the rest of us.

Terralingua
A non-profit supporting the world's linguistic diversity and indigenous languages through research, information, applied work, and advocacy.

Posted by Court at 09:28 AM

Cheap Hotel Links

Cheap Hotel Links pulls together the best specials from big name global providers like Hotwire, Orbitz, Expedia and Travelocity.

Posted by Court at 09:05 AM

BootsnAll Hostels

The BootsnAll Hostel Booker lets you search hostels, check out pictures and reserve rooms in advance. The hostel section also answers FAQs, debunks hostel myths and gives reasons why you should - or should not - hostel.

Posted by Court at 09:05 AM

IAMAT - Avoiding Medical Disasters

Just to be clear, Fred doesn't work with IAMAT or anything like that. He and his wife have used their services for a long time, and he wanted to tell you that they may be worth checking out before your next trip.

Although most travellers purchase some form of international medical insurance before setting out, that isn't the only thing to consider. How about knowing precisely what health hazards exist wherever you're headed, so you can take the right preventative steps in advance? Once abroad, what if you wake up with some illness that you can't quite define, and you don't know if it's serious enough to warrant phoning your insurer? And how can you be sure that a doctor or clinic in a far-off land speaks your language, or has the latest medical information? This is especially important when you are travelling to a number of countries with a wide variety of medical standards. You can avoid all these difficulties by doing as we did a decade ago: join the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travellers (IAMAT).

IAMAT was founded in 1960 by Dr Vincenzo Marcolongo, a Toronto physician who foresaw that increased worldwide mobility would mean that doctors would need to be able to diagnose and treat illnesses previously foreign to them. To paraphrase the aims stated in their Charter, IAMAT planned to validate, and where necessary improve, the training of doctors around the globe; and make up-to-date preventative and consultative information available to travellers.

For the travelling public, their most important role would be to give advice about health risks, immunization requirements for all countries, and the geographical distribution of diseases; and to make competent medical care available around the world by Western-trained doctors who can speak English and who adhere to an agreed-upon standard list of medical fees for their services.

IAMAT started small but has acquired broad international support from prestigious boards of directors and medical advisors. It has continued to expand its services, and now has offices in Canada, the USA, New Zealand, and Switzerland.

If you join you'll receive several benefits:

An annual membership card guaranteeing services by accredited doctors at fixed IAMAT rates.
A traveller's clinical record to be completed by your own doctor, which will give any foreign doctor your complete medical history, allergies, dosages, etc.
A World Directory which guides members to centres and participating physicians in 373 cities in 110 countries (as of 2001) from A to Z, with their names, addresses and phone numbers.
An extremely thorough World Immunization Chart advising on immunizations for 200 countries and regions.
A World Malaria Risk Chart and Protection Guide providing current information about the type of malaria-carrying mosquito (there are several) encountered in different countries and areas, and both the mechanical and pharmaceutical protections to be used. (Malaria is still one of the world's most deadly diseases).
Other charts providing information on risks such as Schistosomiasis and Chagas' disease, as well as world climate charts detailing food, clothing, and sanitary conditions everywhere.

By now you're likely figuring that this is a service only for the well-heeled. Nothing could be farther from the truth. There is no charge, but they will suggest a donation, which will be gratefully acknowledged with a receipt for income tax purposes. Although we've never had to use their services, for years we've been making a modest annual donation, knowing that it has helped others when they were in need. Surely anybody planning a trip around the world can afford to make a contribution to get all these benefits in return!

For more information, including how to join, go to www.iamat.org.

Posted by Court at 08:13 AM

Health Links

Below you will find links to sites that we think offer good information about staying healthy while on the road and what to do if you get sick. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, send contact us with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

Centers for Disease Control

Health information on specific destinations. What to know before you go.

The Travel Clinic

Everything you need to know about travel and related health matters. If there's a subject you cannot find, they probably have a link to it.

IAMAT

The International Association for Medical Assistance for Travellers. Free membership and pretty cool benefits.

Lonely Planet's Health Check
How to take of yourself before you leave, while away, what to do should you get sick, and how the ladies can take care of their own health needs too.

The Travel Doctor: Your Guide to Staying Healthy While You Travel
Dr. Mark Wise addresses health concerns confronting today's business and leisure traveler in a comprehensive, common-sense way.

BootsnAll Travel Insurance

The prices on these packages are pretty reasonable, and insurance also means no more worries over what to do if you get sick or injured while abroad.

Medical Advisory Services for Travellers Abroad

Useful info for all aspects of travel health. Based in the UK.

The Travel Doctor

Site with good advice on precautions before you leave.

Travel Health Online

Shoreland provides destination information coupled with facts on travel-related ailments, as well as travel health services worldwide.

WHO - Travel

World Health Organization's comprehensive breakdown of potential hazards to travellers by country.

Posted by Court at 08:04 AM

Healthy Travel

The last thing you want to consider when you're planning your next big trip is getting sick. The best time to think about it, though, is while you are in the planning stage. Few things are more unpleasant than getting off the plane halfway around the world with a sore throat, trying to hike with that twisted ankle, or discovering too few Band-Aids too late.

Germs
First, consider how you plan to travel - plane, train, or bus. You will be crammed into a sardine-like space with lots of unknown people who have hygiene and health issues. If you're prone to colds, you'll often pick one up in the canned air of an airplane. Trains might offer more room for movement, but then people stroll by with their germs. Even airports harbor all sorts of fun germs, especially in the long security lines.

Begin your journey in good health. It's always tempting to pack at the last minute, get to sleep late the night before, and eat whatever fast food is handy for breakfast. Don't! Pack a couple of days ahead and do a one-half hour check through the evening before, then go to bed at your usual time, if not earlier.

Drink extra water the day before your trip and when you leave, have a solid, balanced dinner and a healthy breakfast with fruits and vegetables. Carry a health bar or some trail mix and a baggie of carrots to snack on before you clear security checkpoints (since they don't let you take fresh food through). When in travel terminal shops and restaurants, look for fresh food or healthy alternatives, and replenish your water whenever you can.

Be prepared for the onslaught of germs combined with canned, over-circulated air. There are preventative products on the market that can help you boost your immunity system with a big dose of vitamins and herbs. Or, you can grab a health smoothie that does the same. When on a plane or train, consider using a small face mask, or dampen a bandanna and place it over your nose and mouth for half-hour increments. Since you are made up primarily of water, when you get dehydrated, you become more susceptible to picking up viruses. Keep drinking water so that you feel pleasantly sloshy but not bursting.

Exercise
Traveling puts you on the move. It's tempting not to take care of yourself. You may be seated for long stretches, contorted while carrying heavy bags, jet-lagged from strange schedules. Treat your body right to get the most out of it during your trip.

Start by limbering up before you get to your seat. You can easily and publicly do a few stretches while in the boarding lines, such as extending your arms in front of you, with your fingers laced, then raising them above your head. You can also do a simple toe-touch while standing, and while seated, bring your left knee up to your chest, then your right. Carefully lean forward so that your back is rounded and your head is hanging loose, letting your back and neck muscles relax for 30-60 seconds.

Other simple muscle relaxers include gentle head tilts or rolls, shoulder rolls, leg stretches, etc. Several of these can be done while seated so that you keep your circulation active and your muscles loose. Check out the Jet Blue Airlines website for the "Airplane Yoga" download. Breathe slowly and deeply while doing any stretch.

Do a little light stretching before you hoist your bags onto your back or take long walks - best done in the mornings after you've been up a few minutes. Include toe-touching, arm and back lengthening stretches, knee-bends and ankle rolls for muscle flexibility. Before bed, you might also do some neck and shoulder stretches, and a five minute foot massage. If possible, make a 15-20 minute morning walk part of your wake-up call so that you can feel your most alert before your day really gets going.

First-Aid
Bring your own first-aid basics with you in a form you can carry easily and conveniently. Start with pain reliever, Band-Aids, antiseptic ointment, a few Wet Ones, moleskin, your favorite stomach remedy, and whatever prescriptions you require. Make sure you label everything in your primary language and in your destination language. Consider bringing multi vitamins, Vitamin C and a small tube of Airborne.

Include what health assistance you can expect to find at your destination as part of your pre-travel research. This is important if you come down with a head cold after you arrive and need cough medicine, for instance. Don't expect the hotel to assist you - information can be different depending on the class of hotel. For example, Paris has a pharmacy every few blocks, while Rome and Venice have them spaced further apart.

Check out the website of IAMAT (International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers - free but donation suggested). Helpful information on doctors and fees you might need around the world, plus a membership card, health charts, etc.

Get the most out of your next big trip. Preparation and self care are easy. The better you feel, the more you'll do and remember. Hiking the Cinque Terre is no fun with a blasting head cold, nor is spending an overnight train journey huddled sick in bed. It puts a real crimp on your museum walking plans if your muscles get and stay stiff from too much crammed sitting and not enough relaxed sleeping. You owe it to yourself to stay healthy while you travel. Good luck!

More Information
L.J. Bothell is a graphic designer/writer with marketing communications emphasis who lives and temps/freelances in Seattle, Washington. Contact ljwrite at att dot net with the title in the subject header with questions.

Posted by Court at 08:04 AM

March 01, 2005

Other Resources on Malaria

The Travel Clinic

Medical precautions to take both before and during your travels.

What Is Malaria?

All the nasty details of malaria and the parasite responsible.

Malaria & Drug Resistance
This report on malaria also includes links to relevant news and books.

Malaria.org
Malaria Foundation International helps develop and implement new ways to fight the disease.

Books on Malaria

Really concerned? Pick up some books on the subject.

Larium vs Larium

Discusses the not-always pretty side effects of one of the most widely used anti-malarial drugs.

WHO/TDR Malaria Database

Fair enough, the stuff here may be comprehensible only to scientists and researchers. But if you're interested, check it out.

WEHI Malaria Program

Maps of epidemics, as well as details on why the disease affects people the way it does.

Posted by Court at 04:43 PM

I Don't Feel So Good...

You have a fever, with chills, sweating, exhaustion, maybe headache and muscular aches and pains...

Or maybe not quite.

Malaria can be a decisively present disease but it is often ambiguous to start with, and your prophylaxis might be hindering its full expression. Some other disease may be adding its symptoms to confuse you and worse, you may be confused by the disease. Any fever without a definite explanation is suspect until proved otherwise, as by a blood test. Self-diagnosis while ill is not reliable.

If you have malaria, this is so serious that worries over side effects from long-term use of the drugs become minor. You knock back the large dose of chloroquine, or the stand-by course of mefloquine, or whatever it is you're using, and head for (or have yourself conveyed) to a hospital or local doctor, urgently.

The high dose of mefloquine might make you hallucinate and worse, but a fevered delerium definitely will, and it could kill you. If that's what you've got, then that's what you must take, though if you had been taking mefloquine as prophylaxis, the high dose course ought to be some other drug. An anti-pyretic drug against the high fever can help, and it is not complex: use aspirin.

The worst situation is for a drug-resistant strain to make you delirious before you realise what has happened. This is where you will have to rely on the kindness of strangers. Make sure your travelling companions know your prophylaxis regime, and where you stash your drugs. Considering that everyone chatters about their particular scheme, and enquires after yours, this should not be difficult. In areas where this sort of thing happens, the local residents will have a good idea what to do, but probably won't have drugs, especially the expensive drugs. Nor may the doctor or hospital, but they will have the knowledge to identify malaria, and shove your drugs down your throat while mopping your fevered brow. Nobody need die from malaria, except by lack of good treatment.

I have not had malaria, and that suits me fine. There was a scare in Syria, where it is just possible to catch malaria. Fever, sweating, shivering, more fever: away to the hospital. However, as I was still on my feet, and didn't scream when poked under the ribs, malaria was rejected in favour of "Grippe", the all-purpose French term for a fever, probably of viral origin. No other symptoms.

Few travellers catch malaria, and even if you spend a fair while in a bad area, your chances are good if you avoid being bitten. But you can be unlucky too.

So go see your doctor, or specialist travellers' medical clinic.

And cover up your juicy flesh.

Posted by Court at 04:43 PM

So, What About These Drugs?

Alas, there is no drug that is completely safe and effective either for prevention or for treatment, nor is there a vaccine. The optimum regimen is an attempt to balance the risk of side effects against the risk of disease. You must consider where you are going and when, how you will travel, the types of malaria present, types of drug resistance, the prevalence of risk, how long you will be exposed, and also your personal condition: as with many other drugs, pregnant women are especially constrained, as are young children.

Drugs may be taken daily, or weekly - it can be surprisingly difficult to maintain a regular weekly dose when off travelling, but I choose Sunday as my wristwatch's weekday window has it marked with red. You may also take a mixture of drugs, or carry a course of drugs only to be used in the case of a suspicious fever while hastening towards medical care. If your regimen involves multiple drugs, with some daily and some weekly, mixing them around would make you very ill.

Only a professional, knowing the current best practice, is the person to trust your life to, because that is what you are doing.

The two major issues are which areas you will be visiting, especially what drug resistance has developed, and how long you will be there. After that come the complications caused by what drugs you cannot take.

None of these drugs can be taken indefinitely. Even for chloroquine, which rarely provokes adverse reactions at prophylactic doses, the World Health Organisation's recommendation is to limit your lifetime dose to the equivalent of about eight years of consumption, or risk blindness. Thus, if you are living indefinitely in a malarial area, you will only take drugs if you are infected.

In colonial days, people developed a taste for quinine in their drinks, and survivors brought the habit home ("Beware beware/ The Bight of Benin: One comes out/ Where fifty went in!"). Quinine comes from the bark of the Quinchona tree of South America, where it is a traditional remedy for fever, and chloroquine was developed from it, just as acetosalicylic acid is a form of the chemical found in willow bark, but not as prone to cause stomach ulcers. Also, it could be patented, whereas a traditional remedy cannot. Yes, the drug companies are not pussycats.

Local people generally do not have much of a choice other than to wait for an infection, and hope. A certain amount of resistance may develop with time, but as repeat infections plainly demonstrate, it is not 100% effective. Certainly, native populations have antibodies to various sorts of parasites in their blood, but that doesn't mean that infections are held off. The only effective inbuilt response is the recessive gene amongst certain Negro populations (e.g., around the Bight of Benin) that in a double dose causes sickle-cell anaemia, and untreated, early death.

Normally, so severe a debit would cause the mutation to be eliminated from the gene pool in short order, but its credit is that in a single dose it defends against malaria. In low oxygen conditions (as in venous blood), the slightly different form of haemoglobin crystallises, it so happens to be into needle-like crystals, that… impale the parasite! I recall a biochemist describing this with a bewildered tone: the normal biochemical battle is a chess game of subtle ploy and counter-ploy with results long after the initial move, but this is a matter of gross physical disruption! Well, evolution doesn't care much about the aesthetic criteria of biochemists.

And evolution has applied in other matters too: there are strains of malaria resistant to chloroquine and other drugs, and I note that the notorious areas of South-East Asia adjacent to Viet Nam, and also East Africa, are precisely those areas that people with money have presented the parasite with an opportunity to meet, and the need, to breed their way around all sorts of drugs, by confronting it with low doses and large rewards for success. There are already multi-drug resistant strains, and I'm sure that the latest popular drug, mefloquine (tradename Lariam) will be added to the parasites' repertoire in the years to come.

My situation involved travelling for many months in malarial areas, so despite the presence of chloroquine-resistant strains, chloroquine was the recommendation. However, I also was to carry four tablets of mefloquine, for use in the case of suspect fever while in or recently from a drug-resistant area, and naturally, long-sleeve shirts, etc. were emphasised. In other words, the risk of many months of taking mefloquine was too great for me, even though I have no history of one of the contraindications, mental instability. Persons suggesting otherwise are invited to do so on soft, absorbent paper.

Mefloquine - Some side effects

Some people can't take mefloquine. It is already notorious for vivid dreams and daytime hallucinations that can be disabling, and there is a lot of chatter about this amongst travellers. Though some of this is suspected to be self-suggestion and anxiety amongst groups, some people are indeed susceptible.

I met one woman who reported viewing a plate of chips and seeing vivid greens and blues as well as yellow-brown. Another saw clouds as giant pink protozoa staring at him (fair enough, the parasite is a protozoan), and a third woke at night thinking that a sandstorm was demolishing his tent so he rushed out to re-peg it and slammed into his hotel room's wall. These are not mild side effects so other drugs must be sought. It also promotes confusion and poor coordination, so people intending to drive should avoid it.

The full range of possible side effects of these drugs is quite peculiar, involves strange interactions with other medication you may be taking, and is exacerbated by odd links to certain activities, such as scuba diving. Again, discuss your plans with a specialist.

Even in areas where chloroquine resistance exists, it is not thereby rendered useless. I recall reading a paper at a science exhibition in Ouagadougou, which stated that even in areas with resistant strains, the high-dose course of chloroquine will cure all but five percent of cases. Thus, if chloroquine is your drug you should not live in daily fear of imminent death (except when on the roads), and note that chloroquine is quite cheaply available throughout malarial areas, much cheaper than in the rich countries though less likely to be coated so as to avoid the bitter taste. Fancier drugs are much less available in poor areas.

The unlucky five percent are going to be in trouble, but this is what you have the "stand-by" course of mefloquine for. Alas, the local population is unlikely to be able to afford drugs such as mefloquine. In the "Hyperendemic" areas, about 90-100 infected bites a year could be expected, out of 2-300 bites a month if no mosquito-blocking procedures were employed. That means about 3% of mosquitos are infected; previously I'd read that 1% was considered high. Hyperendemic indeed. It was no surprise that everyone tested had antibodies indicating prior encounters. And it was estimated that infant mortality due to malarial attacks was five percent.

Persons making shorter journeys through drug-resistant malarial areas could use the more effective mefloquine. The Darwin centre staff that advised me would consider the risk of side effects acceptable for a period of up to about three months, but remember that you may not be able to take mefloquine, or other drugs might offer a better regime. Nevertheless, the US Peace Corps currently sees fit to require that its volunteers take mefloquine for up to two years. It is a rough way to acquire statistics.

And if you're making a fortnight's visit to, say, a seaside resort with air-conditioned rooms and dining area, you might well get by with no drugs at all.

Incidentally, aside from malaria, a bite may become infected. It helps not to scratch the bite (and squeezing out some lymph will flush out some of the irritating mosquito saliva), so an anti-histamine ointment will assist those of weaker character. Tincture of iodine will encourage the scratched area to dry (though in hot humid areas, your skin will be slimy with sweat for hours on end) and discourage infection until it heals.

Tropical ulcers typically start from a bug bite, or small scratch. They can be very difficult to get rid of once established, but good nutrition seems to help so eat well. And don't let an ulcer start. Traditional remedies include raw chili pepper applied to the ulcer, and that has to hurt. Often the most swiftly effective medical treatment is to depart for a cool climate.

Posted by Court at 04:43 PM

So, You're Going to Get Bitten

Just one bite, by one infected mosquito is enough, and despite everything mentioned in previous articles, you could be unlucky. It takes about a week to go from the bite to the disease if nothing intervenes. Conversely, you could employ some ineffective scheme that appeared to work, simply because you were lucky. Or even do nothing and be lucky. It is a matter of chance, and again, single histories have little bearing on assessments of the probabilities.

What is clear however, is that the longer you spend in a malarial area, the more likely it will be that you cop an unlucky bite. Even in the worst areas, no more than a few percent of the mosquitoes are infective, but if you are accumulating hundreds of bites, that is small comfort.

Your second line of defence involves internal chemicals. Certain drugs are taken throughout the time there is a chance that an infective mosquito might deliver parasites to you. This prophylaxis however does not kill the parasite, it merely prevents it from breeding. For this reason, the drugs must be continued for four weeks past your departure from a malarial zone so that they die of old age without issue.

To establish a suitable level of the drug in your system ready for any early arrivals, the drug must be started perhaps two weeks before you enter a malarial zone (chloroquine), or four weeks for mefloquine in part to allow side effects to be assessed before you leave. If your travels take you out of a malarial zone for a while, then you return, the gap would have to approach two months before it would be worth stopping the drugs.

During the time that you are taking the drugs, you may well be host to the parasite, perhaps from a bite you haven't noticed. While the parasite numbers are small, you will have no symptoms, nor will a blood test be certain to detect any parasites. The drugs do not suppress the symptoms, they suppress the parasite that causes the symptoms. Thus, finish the final four weeks, even though you're comfortable at home.

If, after your return you develop any fever, you must warn your doctor that you've been to malarial areas as otherwise malaria is likely not to be considered and you can become dangerously ill. There is a slim possibility that malaria will develop months after departing a malarial zone and completing your post-exposure course, as one stage in the parasite's complex life cycle takes place in your liver, and some parasites can remain dormant there rather than breed at once.

Posted by Court at 04:43 PM

How Not to Get Malaria

Don't Get Bitten!

The most definite method is to keep away from malarial areas.

There are anecdotes about sharing an aeroplane cabin on your entirely non-malarial journey with a passenger who has just come from a malarial area and who has brought some hungry mosquitoes along, so if you believe in that risk, you won't be comforted.

But rather more likely, you intend to travel to an area where alas, malaria exists. Loosely speaking, this means the tropics and subtropics, and below 4,000 feet, the operational ceiling of the anopheles mosquitoes. Historically, it existed in southern Europe and the USA but good luck and determined public health measures, such as the draining of the Pontine marshes in Roman times, have reduced the risk. Now, one of the fears associated with global warming is that there will be an expansion of the range.

Although the mosquito breeds in water, that does not mean that you will be safe in an arid area as mosquitoes will happily breed in discarded cans, bottles, tires, wheel ruts, water cisterns, drains, and so on. Anything that can hold water for a week or so, and so much can, especially around human habitations.

Rivers and open lakes are less popular, as hungry fish devour the larvae with zeal. If you are on a riverboat on the Amazon, you will be safe except when the boat puts in to shore. Or in the centre of a dry riverbed, hundreds of yards from the nearest vegetation. Likewise, in a city with a mania for tidiness such as Singapore, there will be few mosquitoes.

The word 'malaria' literally means "bad air", a consequence of the ancient knowledge that the disease appeared to be caused by the miasma emanating from swampy areas. Now, we realise that matted vegetation prevents fish from devouring the larvae. Happily, saltwater swamps are mosquito-free, despite their miasma.

So, as you are travelling through a malarial area, your best plan is not to be bitten by a mosquito, and avoiding those itchy, scratchy, character-developing lumps is nice as well. An all-enclosing rubber suit would be effective, but brings tiresome complications, so lesser measures must be considered.

Mosquitoes mainly (but not absolutely) hunt at night, especially at dusk and dawn. Long-sleeve shirts, long trousers (or skirts), and socks, will be effective. Dark colours seem to attract mosquitoes, as does perfume, aftershave and unwashed skin. When sleeping, a thin sheet is good. While mosquitoes can bite through thin cloth where it is pulled smooth over skin, the slightest movement will inconvenience them, and it is far better than exposing expanses of skin as a buffet. If you're sleeping inside a mosquito net (whose holes you have blocked!), be sure that you have enough space that you will not press some juicy flesh against the net while you sleep.

Mosquitoes don't like moving air, so while you are walking you're safe, likewise while a breeze or fan steadily wafts air past you. But if the breeze stops, or the electricity fails, or an arm flops over the side of the bed, you're dinner. Remember this as you sit with friends having your dinner and chatting: under the table, mosquitoes will be looking for exposed skin. Sandal-wearers beware. Hands also are at risk; I have at times been tempted to wear gloves. I have rarely been bitten on my face or neck, I think because the skin is sensitive and my ears are nearby to catch the whine of a searching mosquito. No other exposed skin exists. Animals follow a similar cover-up, with fur. Alas for them, their eyelids are still vulnerable.

These measures allowed me to get by with about one bite a week, though I recall at the Sudan/Chad border, I was caught good and proper. Although it is desert, I copped over a hundred bites on each hand plus dozens on my right shoulder blade where my sheet and shirt happened to be pulled tight. In the morning I found a large pond on the far side of the border post, presumably with few fish.

Such counter-measures cost you essentially nothing, except for the tedium of changing out of skimpy clothing for the evening, and possibly the violence done to your fashion sense.

Some people claim that "Mosquitoes just don't go for me" possibly due to genetics: this is no doubt pleasing for them. However, I have yet to hear such a claim that is delivered along with evidence that distinguishes not being bitten from being bitten, but no itchy lump develops to be noticed. It is a local reaction to the mosquito's saliva and has nothing to do with whether or not parasites were injected also.

More positive actions are available, such as rendering yourself less appealing to mosquitoes. Many options are talked about: diet choices, overdosing on certain vitamins, eating lots of garlic (yum!), special aromatic oils, mysterious herbs, ultrasonic noise generators, having a companion whom the mosquitoes prefer, keeping a pet lizard with you, sitting by carnivorous plants, encouraging bats to live nearby, smoking rank cigars, on and on, but all of these flounderings fade before the effectiveness of chemical repellent, and the most effective of all is a slathering of Deet. Actually, it is not a repellent: if you watch closely, you will see that the fumes don't repel the bugs, but knock them silly as they approach so that they fall away then stagger off elsewhere.

Deet is a nasty chemical, so nasty that only because it is effective is it used. While it is fresh on your hands, if you touch something plastic, such as your camera, you will leave a fingerprint etched into the plastic. There are other repellent chemicals, but no-one has yet found a repellent as reliably effective that is not nasty. Happily, you need daub only your hands, and maybe your face, every few hours, or you could just daub your shirt cuffs and collar, or wear special bracelets and hope that the fumes will extend far enough. High-strength Deet can't be applied to children, as it will make them ill.

Another possibility is to not put the stuff on your skin or clothes, but instead to suffuse the surrounding air, say with smoke from a smouldering campfire, or a cooking fire inside an ill-ventilated hut. Alas, the smoke levels likely to be effective are rather unpleasant, and must be maintained all night.

Again, the chemical industry has an offering, in the form of "mosquito coils". Such a coil can last all night as you sleep in a hut, and although you're breathing in whatever it emits, it is 'safe'. In the open, such a coil should be placed upwind, or one on each side. It would be especially useful under your dining table, rather than atop, but don't knock it over!

You should realise that evolutionary theory warns that any measure that is not absolutely effective will merely become another factor driving the development of the super-mosquito: determined on her goal, nimble in her assault, resistant to chemicals and appreciating repellent as we do chili sauce. The ubermosquito already has learnt to sense the slight tensing of the flesh beneath her feet that signals a slap on the way. Only the laggards are swatted; mosquitodom is the stronger for their loss. Smarter humans learn to smear rather than slap, reducing the premonitory cringe: let this document further our advance through cultural evolution.

Posted by Court at 04:43 PM

Precautions Against Malaria

This is not a substitute for medical advice, related to your situation by a trained expert. The idea is to give you some idea of the issues and enough background so that during your consultation, you have a better idea of what is involved in the choices available and can ask useful questions while making sensible replies to your doctor's questions. Few adults would need to modify their travel wishes in order to avoid malarial risk, but pregnant women or those responsible for young children might.

Mozzie
Malaria is a real killer disease, sweeping away well over two million victims a year, most of whom will never have seen a doctor in their often brief lives. However, the statistics are not good for the majority of the regions where deaths occur so no-one really has a good idea. Also, continual low-grade infestation with the parasites wears down every victim, so that other diseases may sweep them away rather than be resisted, and malaria itself is not blamed directly. Many many more suffer chronic ill-health, especially anaemia.

We have advantages, and should use them. Chance plays a large part in the exposure to the risk, so you should be especially careful of anecdotes as a basis for your procedure. This is not an opportunity for casual experimentation or casual behaviour even though many people get away with it.

Malaria is caused by a parasite that lives within red blood cells. It breeds until the cell eventually bursts and the released parasites seek other red blood cells to set up home in and breed further. As the parasite hides within your own cells, it is more difficult for your body's defences to slaughter them, but they do.

Alas, the parasite also changes its skin randomly as its generations pass, so that there are likely to be survivors of an onslaught that manage to rebuild the parasite numbers until a fresh assault is mounted, thus the famous cycles of fever, reduction, and relapse in an exhausting cycle. The fever can be very high, alone enough to kill, and in the past has been used to end infections by other organisms that can't withstand high temperatures.

Thanks to all the killed red blood cells, the liver and spleen, overloaded with their recycling task, are likely to become swollen and tender. But no symptom can be absolutely relied upon to be clearly present in a particular case. You need diagnosis by experienced personnel (which may well not include your doctor at home, no disrespect), and best, a blood test.

It is not infectious. As just about everyone knows, it is spread by bites from certain species of mosquito. I suppose sharing uncleaned needles might work occasionally, but you won't be doing that anyway, will you? Blood transfusions would be another unlucky chance. Just as was the case with AIDS (and Hepatitis before AIDS), no-one sees a need to test for malarial parasites, so you can do all of us a favour by not giving any blood until, say, six months after returning home. There is no need to present the parasite with the chance of profiting via a new trick.

The parasite is well-adapted not just to us, but also to its life in the mosquito. As with many parasites, the fascinating schemes deployed bring smiles to the faces of parasitologists, but for the rest of us, to hell with that.

The infection to you is injected along with the saliva from the mosquito, that contains an anti-coagulant to assist the mosquito's sucking. It is not a matter of injecting you with blood from a previous meal, as the parasite has a special life stage that takes up residence in the mosquito's salivary glands.

Fleas and ticks may re-gurgitate part of a previous meal as they gorge, but mosquitoes do not. Entomologists delight over these details also, perhaps to the degree that they wouldn't scratch the lumps, and hurrah for them.

The advantage to the mosquito is that a protein meal enables a far larger batch of eggs to be laid, so the female has a strong incentive to get past any defence and make off with a load of blood rather than plant sap. Mosquito bites do not transfer AIDS, human folly is quite adequate for that.

Posted by Court at 04:42 PM

Travel Gear Links

Below you will find links to sites that offer useful information on the stuff you'll be taking with you on the road. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, please contact BootsnAll with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

Travel Gear Blog
Rants and reviews on all things travel gear – in English, not gear-geek.

Altrec
All the gear you need for life outdoors or on the road.

Artisan Gear
One-stop shop for all hemp travelling gear.

Craghoppers
Uses smart fabrics for everything from waterproofing to UV protection to, we swear, insect repulsion. How's that for handy?

Eagle Creek
Awesome backpacks and travel accesories.

Travel Accessories at eBags.com
For all the little extras.

Folding Kayaks FAQ
And no, it is not a "collapsible canoe," but it is a great way to haul around a kayak. At the bottom is contact info for manufacturers.

Le TRAVEL STORE
Travel gear for independent travelers.

Luggage Online
Limited range of backpacks (as well as everything else). They will pay shipping on some orders.

REI.com
Everything you need for the outdoors, and a cool company too.

REI-OUTLET.com
Check regularly for quality gear marked down like mad.

Patagonia
High quality (and usually, priced) gear and their site had some great photos.

Mountain Hardwear
These guys left Sierra Designs to do, well, outdoor stuff. Is it better than SD or TNF? You decide.

Timberland
Not just boots. They also have gear and clothing.

Birkenstock
If you're looking for sandals, this is the place for you.

WorldClassGear.com
World class reviews on hiking, trekking, mountaineering and adventure travel gear.

Swiss Army Products
For more than just knives.

Posted by Court at 04:22 PM

Products for Parents

BabyProofingPlus.com
Online catalog of baby safety products, based in Canada and shipping worldwide. Also offers a free checklist of what you need to baby-proof your home.

Elizabeth Lee Designs
If you like to sew, and either are a breastfeeding mom or know one who is, Elizabeth Lee sells patterns for the nursing mother's wardrobe.

Freckled Fish Activities
Activity-filled travel backpacks keep kids occupied with games, toys, books, stickers, etc.

One Hot Mama
Nursing and maternity clothes, plus everything from accessories to books to lingerie. There's tips and advice for mums as well.

Ross Home Delivery
Order online for all your child and infant nutritional needs.

Posted by Court at 04:15 PM

Traveling With Kids - Humor

Here's a twist: Vince Sabio is a bachelor who needed to reaffirm his decision to remain childless. So he took his niece and nephew on a trip. Read and heed his advice - and equations: Traveling with Kids.

Posted by Court at 04:12 PM

Moving to San Miguel de Allende: Chapter 6: Bulls, & the End of the Adventure

Chapter 6: Bulls, & the End of the Adventure
September has been the month of fiestas here in San Miguel, beginning with the 15th of September and a lavish re-enactment of the "Grito" – Padre Miguel Hidalgo's cry to arms against the Spaniards – and culminating in La Pamplonada, aka the running of the bulls on the 23rd.

The festive Jardin aglow at night.

The town has been decked out in red, white and green since September 1st. I have never seen any place so magnificently decorated. Flags flutter in front of every building; red and green tinsel decorations embellish every street; every restaurant and home is strung with paper bells in the same tricolor scheme. A large glittering portrait of Ignacio Allende – a revolutionary general and San Miguel's eponymous native son – graces the facade of the house where he once lived. I don't think San Miguel is sleepy at any time of year, but during September it seems to have insomnia!

We joined the thousands of Mexicans from all over the nation on the night of the 15th to watch the festivities, which began with dazzling fireworks displays and the lighting of balloons filled with explosives (it was so loud it was nearly impossible to hear oneself think, let alone have a conversation!), and ended with us being squashed beyond recognition in the square surrounded by Mexican flags and the thunderous cries of "Viva Mexico!"

Feeling incredibly claustrophobic and a little too close to our fellow humans for comfort, we finally managed to push and shove our way through the thick throng into the open air. I have never been quite so physically close to utter strangers before! We got home, completely exhausted, at about 1 a.m., and immediately fell asleep, despite the fireworks and explosions of dynamite-filled balloons that continued incessantly all night long...

We hadn't planned on attending the Pamplonada, but it seems that the best-laid plans always go awry and we did end up going. It was absolute insanity! We are still recovering!

We waited under a cloudless sky and a fiercely burning sun for an hour and a half before they released the enormous, enraged bulls into the largely drunken crowd. As they charged towards the throng we were trapped behind everyone backed up so suddenly and so forcefully that I thought I would suffocate, pressed between the screaming crowd and the 20-foot stone and wrought iron fence behind us. All I remember thinking is, "crushed by a crowd of drunken teenagers – what a ridiculous way to die!"

Trying to keep Annie and Laurie from the same fate, we climbed up the fence where several other people were clinging tenuously and tried to squeeze them through the bars. Leigh managed to get near the top of the fence where there was no mesh, and we pushed Laurie up to join her about 12 feet above the ground. Leigh somehow pushed Laurie through the bars, where she jumped into the arms of a policeman on the other side. Once Annie was pulled up to Leigh's precarious position, we came to the horrible realization that she couldn't fit her head through the bars.

La Pamplonada.

The minutes seemed like hours; the bulls charged, the heat burned, the crowd surged. Mom and I were barely maintaining our grip on the mesh, our feet hardly touching the ledge, our mangled fingers slipping every time the bulls charged the crowd and initiated the crush. I saw people running; one man was gored right before my eyes, tossed 20 feet in the air by those fearsome horns. Leigh and Annie were still clinging to the bars above us, terrified that we wouldn't be able to get out of the melee.

Finally, a man, not a policeman or a Red Cross volunteer, with tremendous courage, balanced a ladder on the fence and carefully climbed up it. He lifted the terrified Annie over the sharp pikes that line the top of the fence and managed to get her down the ladder. Leigh followed. When I saw them all hugging and kissing on the other side, I felt the first ray of hope that I would get out of this and survive.

I felt my fingers losing their grasp on the mesh, and I knew I would fall back under the crowd. Then someone directed my hand to a belt a policeman had looped around the bars. I gripped it, though my sweaty hands slipped on the leather. As another man was gored only yards away, I heard a voice with a thick Spanish accent say, "take my hand," and I was pulled from above by the hand and pushed from below by Mom and the other people clinging to the mesh. I reached the top of the fence. The man who had helped Annie and Leigh to safety, and whose hand I had grasped, wedged his feet between two bars and lifted me over the wrought iron pikes to the ladder. I managed to squeak out a "gracias" and, trembling, I climbed slowly down the ladder and went to my sisters. We hugged and kissed each other – so glad to be alive and together.

I looked back at the fence and saw Mom climbing the fence through sheer willpower, rivulets of blood running down her legs. We ran to her as she stepped down the ladder. We had survived! Someone brought us water bottles, and a policeman directed us into a church. The peace and aura of reverence in the cathedral, so welcome after the chaos and terror outside, brought a surge of relief to my heart and a surge of tears to my eyes. I grasped Mom's hand and thanked God. In just one day, I wondered at the survival of humans as species, considering their stupidity, and also managed to marvel at man's humanity towards his fellow man when it is most needed. Now that this experience is behind us, we all find it uproariously funny – I wonder what that says about us...

Not too long after our Pamplonada experience, our Dad drove down to San Miguel to take us back to Denver. Our house in Denver hadn't sold, and keeping up two houses was becoming difficult. So, after six months of adventure, new experiences and immersion in a foreign, yet now wonderfully familiar culture, we left our villa morada, our views and our new friends, and drove north for four days. But we are determined to return to beautiful, friendly, quirky, magical San Miguel de Allende, and someday, we will.

Posted by Court at 03:56 PM

Moving to San Miguel de Allende: Chapter 5: El Rancho

Chapter 5: El Rancho
One bright Sunday morning, after church, we walked quickly up Prolongacion de Aldama dressed in our finest clothing – nothing more than creative new renditions of what we wore the week before, but our Sunday best nevertheless. We skirted ancient trucks, smoke-belching buses and large families of ambling Mexicans strolling leisurely up the hill.

Enjoying food and conversation at El Rancho.

As we dodged a rusting Volkswagen bug, a rickety "camioneta" (van) pulled up alongside us. Javier, our friend from Bellas Artes, leaped out, an enormous grin on his face and an "¡Hola guapas!" on his lips. After the customary hug and kiss on the cheek, he offered his hand in true gentlemanly fashion, to help us maintain equilibrium as we climbed into the van in our dresses and skirts. He turned the key in the ignition and the van came to an inauspicious start, making ominous noises as we turned to go back up the hill to the purple villa.

After several jolting attempts to get up the final hill, our privada, the van reluctantly gave a final heave of energy and we pulled up to our door. Enrique, our substitute piano teacher when Marta (our regular, very tough piano teacher) is on tour, and Abigail ("A-bee-gah-eel"), Javier's delightful wife, followed on foot. This was our first meeting with Abigail, a stout woman with that twinkling eye and warm smile that so typify Mexican kindness and conviviality. Javier, Abigail and Enrique were entertained by Oliver, the orphaned kitten we adopted, while we threw on jeans and t-shirts and sunblocked the fairest members of our crew.

Stuffing all the refrescos and cervezas we had bought for the much-anticipated occasion in our bolsas and laughing at the constant stream of boisterous mirth that flows out of Javier's mouth, we filed into the old camioneta. We perched on various seats of cushioned plywood, without any form of seatbelt, our victuals and drinks on the floor between us. Nopales (cactus pads), tunas (cactus fruits), aguacates and jitomates slid every which way, like marbles on a table. Gravity pulled us swiftly back down the hill and Mom and Abigail struck up a conversation that would continue until we arrived at "El Rancho." Javier handed out pistachios and the sounds of cracking shells and munching nuts accompanied our conversation for the rest of the trip.

The scenery changed from colorfully urban to colorfully rural in a matter of minutes. The vibrantly painted buildings of San Miguel melted into groves of jade-green Huizache trees. We sped along the highway for half an hour or so and then suddenly slowed to a bumpy snail's-pace at a cobblestone road. I was gazing dreamily at the Sierra Madres when a gasp from Mom made me turn to the other window. Nearly hidden by the surrounding green sat a fantastically exotic thatched-roof abode. It was situated overlooking a particularly verdant area, dotted with golden wildflowers, lush palm trees and bizarre cacti and set against a backdrop of the Sierra Madres and a turquoise sky. The views from the building must be spectacular. I placed the image in a mental file of places I would like to live someday, as we rumbled down the road.

Shortly afterward, we came to an anomaly in the wild rural landscape: a pristine, whitewashed bridge. On one side stood a grinning, windblown Paco (another piano student at Bellas Artes), his sister, Sarahi, and a young man we hadn't met before. They squeezed into the camioneta – Mexicans seem to have a Mary Poppins-like ability for packing, both their belongings and themselves – and everyone began conversing at once, at lightening speed. We abruptly screeched to a halt and I emerged dizzily from the maelstrom of Spanish into a grove of mesquite trees, shading a table set with green and yellow manteles, encircled with deck chairs: "El Rancho."

Our hostess, Paco's mother, Luz Maria, came over to welcome us, beaming joy and hospitality. After the customary introductions, she sat us all down under the billowing mesquites and one cool breeze swept away the vertiginous feeling in my stomach.

Refreshed, I took a better look at our motley group. On my right sat Juan, the newcomer, who had a wicked scar streaking like a bolt of lightening across his cheek. Born in Mexico, he and his family moved to Los Angeles when he was a toddler. It did not go well. He joined an L.A. gang and several drive-by shootings later, he landed in jail for five years. Now he has returned to his homeland and his welcoming aunt, uncle and cousins, to turn his life around. On my left sat Luz Maria, chatting with Abigail, whom she had just met for the first time, though they seemed as if they had known each other for years. Javier was making faces that threw Annie and Laurie into gales of laughter; Enrique was conversing with Sarahi, who is as exotically beautiful as her name. Paco, ready for action and anxious to find pet tortugas for Annie and Laurie, decided it was time for a paseo so we set off through the fields.

After walking through a wide open meadow of "flores del campo" – no one could come up with a more specific name – hemmed on one side by the deep blue Sierra Madres and the other by the mesquite-fringed horizon, we came to a leaning straw shack and a small pool of clear water. Juan explained that it was a natural spring, which seem to be omnipresent around San Miguel. Javier rushed up to the pool, threw his hands in the water and splashed his face with its refreshing coolness. Turning his glistening face to the sky, he cried, "¡Me siento libre!"

Abigail tiptoed behind her husband, her hand poised to push him into the pool, when he whirled around, saw his wife and declared,

"¡Ya no me siento libre!"

After Javier had been properly chastised by his wife, we continued our paseo to "the place where there are turtles."

Javier and Enrique tried to remember the lyrics to a Mexican folk song as Paco led the way, frequently stopped by Sarahi, who was certain he had taken the wrong path. He led us into the ruins of an antiquated church – the crumbling stones made our voices echo eerily across the fields. Javier took this opportunity to tell us tales of all the buried treasure in and around San Miguel. His aunt's house had doubtless been a site. During the remodeling, gold coins surfaced and the workers disappeared. Asi es la vida...

Posted by Court at 03:56 PM

Moving to San Miguel de Allende: Chapter 4: Bellas Artes & Quirky Expatriates

Chapter 4: Bellas Artes & Quirky Expatriates
Our Wednesday began as do most of our mornings in San Miguel: with the bells tolling in their dignified way, the furious clanging of the basura man's makeshift cymbals, the dogs barking at one another and the endless stream of rooster vocalizations, ranging from a strident "cockle-doodle-doo" to a low "gurgle-cluck."

One of our delightful insect friends (center) enjoys a meal on the terrace.

Las lluvias continued last night, accompanied by illuminating flashes of lightening. The greening of San Miguel has been quick and enchanting. The Sierra Madres are not like their jagged, foreboding, snow-covered cousins further north; here they are graceful outlines against the sky, verdant and undulating, like emerald-green waves eternally fixed at their crest.

Our breakfast nook, surrounded by three large, arched picture windows, is a wonderful place to birdwatch. As we consumed mangoes, papaya, piña and pan dulce, we punctuated our sounds of savory delight with squeals of excitement.

"Look! A petitroja! Get the binocs!" Petiroja is the euphonious name Mexicans have given to the vermilion flycatcher, a darting scarlet flash of feathers.

"What the heck is that?! Quick, get the bird guide. Maybe it's a..."

It is also a great place to bug-watch, and the bugs here can be just as colorful, exotic and fantastic as the birds. One of our favorite unidentified bug species is about 2 x 1 inches (5 x 2.5 cm) in size, with antennae measuring about one inch (2.5 cm) in length. They are black with gold-ish iridescent wings, and orange and yellow designs on their bodies, as intricate as those painstakingly painted on expensive porcelain. They move their six long legs slowly and methodically; like robots cautiously feeling for samples in a harsh Martian terrain. We often mistake these flying fascinations for hummingbirds traveling from plant to plant.

From our research so far, we have induced that they eat and drink using their proboscises, which look somewhat like hypodermic needles. They insert this useful utensil into their favorite foods (usually the most succulent plants) and stay completely still, absorbed in their meal, for quite some time. We have rescued many of these delightful creatures from the streets and set them free in our courtyard, where they seem to thrive, and where we see many contentedly buzzing to and fro, sucking plant juices through their built-in straws and shining like gold nuggets in the sun.

Bellas Artes.

We enjoyed this lovely morning, reading National Geographic and The Story of Philosophy, conversing in Spanish and writing. After a delicious lunch of frijoles, arroz a la Mexicana y nopalitos, we headed for Bellas Artes, one of the various art schools and our home away from home. We practice the piano here, sit in the cafe by the fountain for hours on end visiting with the various artists, and share our "galletitas" with the fat, friendly pigeons.

We walked past the bustling, noisy Jardin and on several busy streets before reaching Bellas Artes. The entrance is open to the street, but almost magically, the innumerable sounds of boisterous San Miguel fade away as you enter this cool, quiet sanctuary. The entire building is built around a beautifully designed, lush courtyard. Verdant foliage flourishes as a backdrop for bougainvillea of all shades, tall bamboo trees, covered in delicate yellow-tinted leaves, sway gracefully with every whisper of the breeze, and orange trees, their fruit glistening like gems, fill the air with a sweet, tantalizing fragrance. Birds sing and chirp as they flit from tree to blossom and on to the colonial fountain that sits pleasantly gurgling in the center of this sunny haven. Once you have had the chance to drink in the serene beauty and calm of the gardens, you work your calf muscles by climbing the many old stairs to the cloister. Every person you pass has a smile on his face and a warm greeting on his lips. And what a cast of characters it is!

Javier, the wonderful janitor, always greets us with a joyous "¡Hola guapas!" and a kiss on the cheek. Victor, another friend, whose unaccented English is fully deceptive, always asks us with genuine concern, "How do you feel today? Are you happy?"

The empanada lady, laden with baskets full of delectable pastries, calls us all "muñecitas" (dolls) or "gueritas" (blondies) and also engages in the delightful custom of a kiss on the cheek every time we meet. When we purchase some of her "empanadas dulces" to stem our hunger, she goes to great lengths to make sure everyone gets the flavor they requested: membrillo in the green napkins, piña in the yellow, fresa in the pink. Yet, despite her methodical color-coding system, everyone inevitably bites into a pastry filled with a tasty fruit they didn't anticipate. I find the tangy sweetness of membrillo (a fruit similar to crabapple) best titillates my palate, but I'm always happy with anything I happen to end up with.

Paco, a fellow piano student at Bellas Artes, greets us with his wide, brilliant smile and his infectious laughter as Annie and Laurie call out "¡Hola Pavo!" They have called him "turkey" ever since they were first introduced, and it has stuck. He and Javier both have great senses of humor, and every time we meet it takes only a few minutes for us all to be laughing.

We also have some gringo buddies at Bellas Artes. Wendy, one of "the weavers," is a lovely native-born Brit whose accent still hovers around the edges of her speech. We've kept up with the progress she has made on her rug, a pattern of serpents and sacrificial hearts in red, gold and black. We have a picture of us with the finished product, and it's magnificent. She told us that one of these days, she'll teach us how to write some Mayan hieroglyphs and I think I'll design my rug using those!

Leigh and I eventually did take up weaving classes at Bellas Artes and here we are, displaying the results of our efforts in the purple villa's living room.

Another weaver, a German man, is making a wonderfully detailed rug with animals he saw on his recent trip to India. Every time we see him, there's a new peacock fanning its brilliant tail, or an ornately decorated elephant plodding across the wool, or a tiger creeping stealthily through the jungle.

Another friend, Christina, is a tall, slim Argentinean who is taking painting classes at Bellas Artes. She is one of Annie and Laurie's discoveries – one of the many they've come across on their forays through the cloister. She's a very interesting person to talk to, a fellow animal lover and "out-of-the-box" thinker.

Another painter we've met teaches watercolor and is enchanted with Annie's face – she wants to paint her as an angel. Annie certainly has an angelic look about her – though as she and Laurie race around the gardens, an unruly young ostrich comes more to mind.

After we greeted and conversed with our friends, we went to practice our pieces for the recital. We wound it up by practicing the duets we're working on: two are very modern and had to grow on us, and the other is a sweet berceuse by Faure. The recital is on Friday, and Javier has informed us that he intends to hurl rotten zapotes at us if we hit a wrong note – Mom is bringing the tomatoes! We will be playing on a nine-foot Steinway that is rumoured to have once belonged to none other than Adolph Hitler.

After Bellas Artes, I went directly to meet with my chamber music group. We meet every week at the extension office of the University of Guanajuato. There is an enormous jacaranda tree in the garden that dwarfs the other colorful bushes and foliage. The room we play in looks onto the garden, and Jose Luis always opens the door for "un poco de aire libre" (a little fresh air).

An unexpected publicity photo for the chamber music group's charity performance – unfortunately, Russ wasn't there that day.

Jose Luis is a very talented musician. He is a violinist who is now teaching himself the cello so he can fill out the quartet. His son, Manuel, is a fantastic violinist and violist who looks like Itzak Perlmann with his dark curly hair and absolute lack of a neck. Manuel's brother, Luis, and his sister, Blanca, both join us at times. Everyone plays several instruments here, I guess it has never occurred to them not to. The goddess of specialization hasn't hindered their desire or ability.

The only other person not in this same family is Russ Archibald, an elderly, sweet American violinist who has lived all over the world and retired to San Miguel six years ago. He is quite good and delights in our weekly sessions. He reminds me very much of a tortoise as he plays, his face resting placidly on the violin and his lens-enlarged eyes rolling with the music.

Another one of our "regulars" is also named Manuel, and I think he is Jose Luis's brother. Because my Spanish comprehension is not yet up to the speed of my fellow musicians' conversation, I usually manage to get the gist of what's being discussed, but not the details. Manuel wasn't there today – he went to "Mexico," which is how everyone refers to Mexico City. This can be quite baffling since I've been assuming we're all in Mexico. He too is a superb violinist and of course, violist, cellist, flutist, oboist; he helps me out of any ruts I encounter on my way through the music.

Once everyone feels ready to start, it begins rather suddenly. A quick tune-up, a brief suggestion as to which quartet to play and "seis, siete, ocho..." and Mozart's music fills and expands through the room, like air fills the lungs in a deep, inhaling breath. First violin, second violin, viola, cello, every part complements and completes the other, like pieces of a euphonious jigsaw puzzle. We all soar on the wings of Mozart's music for two hours, pausing only to grin at each other and set the tempo for the next movement. Eventually we are compelled to stop by other commitments, though I think the Mexicans would continue for hours more; it is always either Russ or me who has other appointments to attend to.

By this time, my shoulders and triceps are burning, and I always have a bright red mark under my chin where the violin's chin-rest sits. But we are all exhilarated by the music and anxious for our next meeting.

The group Evelyn gathered to go to Hacienda Alcocer. The Clydesdale behind us is about to try to steal my purse.

I packed up my music and wandered up Calle Beneficiencia to meet Mom in the Jardin. The humid air was cool as we made our way up to the purple villa, watching clouds form and melt from one shape to another.

We finally arrived, panting and sticky, even though it was not hot. We were due to be picked up in half an hour so everyone was hurriedly donning jeans, hiking boots and hats when our ride pulled up honking in her purple van. At first I thought it was a flock of geese, but when I peeked out the window I realized it was only one: Evelyn. She knocked vigorously on the door – even though she was 20 minutes early. We let her in; her faded hair was in complete disarray and she was dressed in something that "even the poor wouldn't want." She brought to mind a rarely preened pigeon as she strutted into our house, flushed with excitement and ready to pile us into her car.

As we backed down our street, bumping and jolting, she rattled on about where we were going. But despite her rambling attempts at an explanation, when we arrived at her house we still had no idea where we were going, how we were going to get there and what we were going to do once we did get there. She haphazardly introduced us to the other people she had collected for this excursion: an American family who were renting one of her antiquated pieces of real estate and a perplexed trio of Mexicans.

Evelyn scurried off to haggle with a taxi driver and left all 10 of us to sort out the puzzle of who was who. We eventually figured out we were being joined by a woman named Leonor from Houston, her daughter Sue from Austin, Sue's two sons, Greg and Scott and Evelyn's long-suffering maid Soccorro and her two hapless kids, Consuelo and Rafael. Then came the topic of what adventure we were about to embark on.

"Does anyone have any idea where we're going?" asked Mom, with a nervous laugh.

"No! I thought you might!" answered Leonor. There was a pause, and then everyone tried to explain their connection to the irrepressible Evelyn, though nothing was resolved before the topic of conversation swept back into the room.

She herded all the adults into the taxi and left the kids to find a place to squeeze into in the old purple van. The boys squished into the one set of back seats and the girls piled into the trunk. As soon as we rumbled to a start, Evelyn turned on a very poor recording of some very loud Spanish music. As we lurched, bumped and jolted through town, Leigh, Annie, Laurie, Consuelo and I were constantly thrown up against the booming speakers.

Dad, Annie and Laurie stand in the lush courtyard of Bellas Artes during one of Dad's two visits to San Miguel.

We passed Fraccionamiento La Malcontenta ("The Discontented Neighborhood") and kept heading into the looming mountains. Occasionally we would manage to pop our heads up to see the horses and the Sierra Madres before being forced down again by a series of speed bumps – like swimmers fighting a mighty oceanic undertow. Evelyn finally came to a rather abrupt stop near an old hacienda, El Alcocer. The first to greet us was the ubiquitous pack of motley mutts. While we were petting the many dogs, a tall dark man with a large hooked nose and a commanding presence emerged from the house. Evelyn greeted him with her painfully bad Spanish:

"Hola, Seenyor Murkadilo. ¿Kay ai day nuwayvo?"

I could immediately tell this naturally reserved man was not particularly charmed by Evelyn's overtures. He quietly answered her shrill question and then led us to some stables in a garden with an old well. Señor Mercadillo went to talk with someone while Evelyn corralled everyone for a "candid" picture.

Once free from the tableaux to explore on our own, we noticed a lovely mare with her newborn colt lying on the ground near her feet. While we watched, the colt decided to struggle to its feet. It made several unsuccessful attempts to rise, lifting its velvety face off the ground and looking at us with big, melting eyes. It finally roused up a surge of energy and rose shakily onto its spindly legs. It was like watching a toddler's first few tentative steps as the colt stumbled towards its mother. It was awe-inspiring to think it would be cantering around the corral in just a few hours. I think Leigh was like that...

We wandered toward a wrought iron gate at the end of the garden and peered in at a crumbling stone church, which was being vehemently guarded by a mutt who barked ferociously at these suspicious strangers. Next to it rose an offering in the shape of a cross. No one seemed to know what it was made of or to whom it was addressed, but I marveled at how it stood sturdily, despite its apparent fragility, against the elements. Maybe the gods were appreciative of this impressive offering...

Señor Mercadillo led us past the corrals and into what appeared to be a library, flanked by large wooden bookcases full of intriguing volumes in both Spanish and English. His plan is to start a trade school where people can learn some of the traditional Mexican trades, which he is afraid are dying out, such as horse-shoeing and carriage building. A huge bull's head was sitting in the corner of the room next to a cape and a glittering embroidered jacket. Apparently Señor Mercadillo was once a world-renowned matador. After being inundated with questions as to his profession, he took up the colorful cape and physically demonstrated what could not be explained verbally. He swirled the cape around his elegant form and gracefully evaded an imaginary bull. It reminded me of a beautiful, passionate pas de deux, one that, sadly, ends in gore and death.

After his mesmerizing performance, he quietly explained how a matador makes "a good kill." A sickening feeling seized my stomach, and I knew I could never understand this violent, yet deeply treasured, sport. Despite his arguments that bulls are bred for this and therefore can justifiably be killed, and his laments at losing a friend in Barcelona in a corrida, I felt anger at the former and a smug satisfaction at the latter. But, I must say, the beauty of the pageantry and the matador's cruel dance drew me for a short time into a completely foreign world.

We followed Señor Mercadillo out of the room, impressed in spite of ourselves by the memorabilia of his career that lined the walls. He took us to the kitchen and we all eagerly accepted cups of delicious homemade goat's milk ice cream, in both chocolate and vanilla.

Because of some ominous clouds looming over us and some telltale spurts of rain, we couldn't ride any of the horses, though he did invite us to come back anytime. We did stand in front of one particularly amiable Clydesdale for a photo. As I waited to smile on the count of three, I felt something pulling my purse behind me, definitely trying to pinch it. I whirled around, and to my astonishment, found the culprit to be the horse! He seemed to know he had been caught red-hoofed, as it were, and let me easily extract my well-worn purse from his mouth. We all chuckled at this attempted robbery, and the horse, apparently not suffering any mortification, allowed us to pet his sweet, velvety nose.

Bellas Artes at night.

After the pictures were finally taken and the many "gracias" exchanged, the kids reluctantly climbed back in the old van, which was wall-to-wall flies because Evelyn had forgotten to close the windows. Señor Mercadillo and his 5-year-old, American-looking daughter, Kayla, insisted on driving the rest of the clan back to town. Our tailbone-bruising, head-thumping ride was once again accompanied by ear-splitting music and this time, the drone of a flock of flies.

Once in town, Evelyn lurched to a sudden stop next to the sidewalk and announced,

"I'll drop you all off here! Hop out!"

We followed orders, somewhat bewildered, and got out of the car. I was actually surprised she came to a stop at all! The older kids took charge of the younger ones, and we managed to set off in the direction of their house. We saw the adult members of the party coming towards us, some understandable concern on their faces. Mom later told me that when they saw us standing, Evelyn-less, on the curb, Leonor had exclaimed,

"God, that woman!"

I think that appropriately sums up most people's reaction to Evelyn.

We recovered from our strange, though interesting adventure by sitting on our terrace, eating papaya, gazing at La Parroquia as it seemed to hold the pink clouds on its spires and watching the sun set in a blaze of orange and yellow behind the darkening mountains.

Posted by Court at 03:56 PM

Moving to San Miguel de Allende: Chapter 3: The Purple Villa

Chapter 3: The Purple Villa
San Miguel is starting to green up – we had a nice steady rain a few nights ago and some drizzle last night. The morning view is now veiled in delicate shrouds of mist and the dew-covered trees glisten emerald green as they are warmed by the sun. The mild humidity is wonderful; it's not suffocating, just revitalizing.

On our merry way to the purple villa in Salvador's pick-up.

We moved to our second house (the purple villa) last Saturday, and what a move it was! Our kindly realtor, Armando, sent his gofer, Salvador, to help us move. Salvador sounds bilingual, he has a decidedly Midwestern U.S. accent which makes him seem completely fluent, but he often seems to have no idea what he's saying and his English ends up being quite hilarious. Apparently he had no idea what he was sent for, because he looked with shock at the suitcases and bolsas we were lugging out the gate. He had, unfortunately, parked his pick-up at the very top of our very steep Callejon.

He began his trek up this hill rather dubiously, with one of the smaller suitcases, and after a few feet he stopped and put his hands to his head in despair.

"I'm going to start to sweat!" he said, plainly shocked by the idea.

When I came out to assist with the luggage, the first words out of his mouth were: "Hi. Could you give me a hand?"

I said I would, as all my images of the typical Mexican male, suffering under any circumstances to demonstrate his machismo, were shattered.

Dire thoughts of having to carry an unconscious Salvador up the hill flashed across my mind as we proceeded, Salvador nearly in tears. When we finally reached his truck, panting and, much to Salvador's dismay, sweating, he attempted a suave, carefree toss of the bag into the truck, but instead received a nasty bump as he hit his head with a resounding thud against the metal side.

"Ow," he remarked trying to sound matter-of-fact as he started reluctantly back down the hill for more bags, the lump on his forehead growing larger by the minute.

In the courtyard of the la villa morada.

We finally packed all our belongings (three large suitcases, two small ones and several large bolsas) into the back of the truck, but then came the question of seating arrangements. Only two could fit in the front, so it was decided, after a little trepidation on Mom's part and assurances from Salvador that he would drive very slowly, that all four girls should pile in the back, on top of the luggage. Once we were all perched in our various spots, feeling as secure as one can atop one's suitcase in the back of an ancient pick-up truck, we sallied forth down the uncomfortably narrow and very bumpy cobblestone streets.

Annie, Laurie, Leigh and I decided that, aside from the speed bumps, this wasn't a bad way to travel. We must have looked somewhat like exotic birds to the gaping Mexican natives – I was perched on the highest suitcase in a bright yellow shirt and hat, Leigh a little lower down on the stack of suitcases in turquoise attire, and the two little girls in their equally bright clothing bouncing and laughing at every bump and jolt in the road. I have never gotten so many strange looks from people in my life! Laurie took this opportunity to master the royal wave...

Mom, meanwhile, was carrying on an interesting conversation with Salvador.

"God, it's really hot in here. I'm cooking in my own juices," said Salvador, wiping the sweat from his forehead.

Mom was silent in her attempts to stifle gales of laughter. Salvador, apparently stricken by the urge to sing, broke into a ditty, of what origin and what meaning we may never know:

"The birds and the bees and the sycamore trees..." he crooned in his Midwestern twang.

We lurched to a stop at the bottom of the hill (can we ever escape them?) leading to the purple villa.

"I'm not driving up that hill. No way," said Salvador obstinately.

One of the many colonial fountains on our purple villa's street, Aldama.

Thus began the second lugging of suitcases up yet another hill. Salvador decided that this time an overseer might be needed, and that he was certainly the best candidate for this task. After he carried a few bags up the hill, asking Laurie to get her sister to help him, he proceeded to direct the operation.

"Here, you can take this one up."

"Get your sister to help with that one."

"Good. Only a few more – here take this one."

Once his truck was emptied of kids and suitcases, he felt he had more than fulfilled his task and bade us a tired and relieved farewell. He left us in tears of laughter as we imagined him taking a day off to recover from moving five gringas across town.

However, Salvador was destined for another adventure with the Bohnes that day. We soon realized we had no hot water and called Armando for help. He promptly sent off his long-suffering assistant to our aid. I heard someone say "knock-knock" a few minutes later and let in a bumped, bruised and tired Salvador. After he found the gas, he tried to show us how to light it, very cautiously of course, as he didn't want his "being all over the place." Unfortunately, Salvador's fix-it abilities are about as impressive as his luggage-carrying abilities, and when he left we still had no hot water, only discouraging assurances from Salvador that "the gas-man would have gas" in a few days.

Armando and his electrician came to our rescue and promptly lit the pilot. We were very grateful not to have to take cold showers for two days, despite Salvador's belief that "they make you feel alive."

Our move to the purple villa was certainly one to remember, as is our utterly peculiar and totally hilarious friend, Salvador. And thus was the auspicious beginning of a new phase of our life in San Miguel in la villa morada.

Posted by Court at 03:56 PM

Moving to San Miguel de Allende: Chapter 2: La Vida Mexicana

Chapter 2: La Vida Mexicana
A month has flown by and tomorrow we are moving across town, to a new, more spacious villa – la villa morada. The villa is perched at the top of another steep cobblestone hill and is painted in a glorious hue of purple, accented by brick and ironwork. There is a small courtyard with many potted plants, a laundry room (no more handwashing clothes!) and a fountain. The entry is inviting with a small living room, a large kitchen and a breakfast nook with a beautiful view of La Parroquia – the views become more and more stunning as you go up each floor.

Bouganvillea flourishes everywhere.

The entire house is tiled in various colors of ceramic tiles, and there are iron banisters and furniture and brick arches everywhere. The ceilings are in the style called "boveda," domes built of interlocking bricks. You can't help but marvel at the ingenuity and artistry of Mexican architects.

Up one flight of stairs is the comfortable living room, the bedroom that Leigh, Annie, Laurie and I are sharing, one large bathroom, one smaller bathroom and the "computer room," a tiny study where we will set up our laptop. There are arched picture windows in every room, and all showcase a magnificent view of San Miguel. Up the final flight of stairs is Mom's very spacious bedroom, bathroom and walk-in closet, as well as two terraces. Both are decorated with potted plants and trees, and are superb places to unwind and watch the sun set behind the Sierra Madres.

The colorful Jardin.

We are all excited to be moving into a larger house and to explore the other side of town. The villa morada is close to the Instituto Allende (a famous art and language school) and Parque Juarez, a large, lush park of exotic foliage, elaborate colonial fountains and fascinating bird-life.

As I sit here in the living room of our cinnamon villa I can hear mariachis singing in the Jardin, punctuated by the blasts of fireworks going off in the distance. Firing them off the hill outside of town seems to have become a nightly tradition, holiday or not. We have heard there are only nine days out of the year that are not fiesta days in San Miguel, and from our experience so far, I believe it!

We have started to develop friendships with many Mexicans – in the restaurants, in the tienditas, in the art school, Bellas Artes. And they are all very excited about the upcoming Dia de los Locos.

Hilarious absurdity at the Dia de los Locos parade.

Gerardo, our buddy at our favorite restaurant, El Correo, has been participating in this wild fiesta for 26 years. This year, he and his friends and family are all going to be pirates... He brought his photo album to show us, and it certainly does look completely loco! They have gone as characters from Planet of the Apes, French poodles, gypsies, aliens, mummies and grasshoppers, to name a few – they make new costumes and masks every year. Gerardo takes the making of his costume very seriously and he told us that the wonderful day is coming too fast – he has so much work to do!

Javier (a friend at Bellas Artes) and 150 of his closest friends and family are going as "katarinas" this year – ladybugs. As another of our Bellas Artes friends put it, "¡una plaga de katarinas!" Both Gerardo and Javier have invited us to join their families for the post-parade dinners, and we're going to find a way to attend both. And weather permitting, we are going to try to go to a soccer game on Sunday with Javier and his family.

So, our first day in San Miguel has quickly slipped into a delicious month of new experiences and we are now caught up in la vida Mexicana. We are on Mexican time.

Posted by Court at 03:56 PM

Moving to San Miguel de Allende: Chapter 1: Journey & Arrival

Chapter 1: Journey & Arrival
As we pulled out of the driveway of our house in Denver, Colorado on May 9 and headed down the street, I took a final look at the home I had lived in since I was just over a year old. The sun was still pale in the early morning sky, and everything was quiet. I didn't take a lingering glance back at the receding house – I was too excited about what lay ahead. I pictured myself, a 14-year old gringa with my rather eccentric sisters and mother, gaining my education by travel and by the experience of living in a different country, a different culture, a different style.

Kathleen, Leigh, Annie and Laurie enjoying breakfast on the patio of the cinnamon villa.

Our journey through the maze of concourses, baggage checks and trains of the airport was bewildering and fast, as it always is. We stumbled to our gate and squeezed our dad before boarding the plane to Los Angeles. I felt much sympathy for him as he waved, and I felt a sudden urge to pull him on the plane with us and just take off. But I quickly jerked my head out of the clouds and sighed. He would stay, and it would be difficult for awhile but then, oh then! I knew it was all worth it. Every single hardship would edge us closer to that joyous goal – like paradise beckoning a few steep peaks away...

The flight was accompanied by the usual activities and feelings: mediocre meals of which only half looks edible, that cramped, I-really-need-some-air feeling and innumerable looks at my watch. Time seems to stand still when you least want it to, so I gave in and pulled out a book I had found on the history and culture of the place where we would eventually touch down.

Once known as the village of Chichimeca, San Miguel was originally inhabited by the Chichimeca Indians, "Barbarians and less reasonable than the people of other provinces," according to Cortez. In 1542, a Franciscan friar, Fray Juan de San Miguel, established a thatched-roof adobe church on the trickle of a river, Rio Laja, and taught Catholicism to the indigenous Chichimecas.

Because of this lack of water, the mission might not have survived had it not been for a pair of dogs. Legend has it that one day, missing his beloved dogs, Fray San Miguel went to search for them and found them happily drinking water at an abundant natural spring, later called El Chorro, which can still be seen today. Miguel moved the town to where it is today and was able to continue his work. The village grew into an important, bustling town. The area eventually was fully evangelized by the Spaniards and became a safe place for silver miners to stop and buy supplies on the way to Mexico City.

As silver flowed, San Miguel flourished. It became a local market center – whatever one wanted, San Miguel had it. Luxurious haciendas, elegant churches and varied markets propagated in the expanding town, all supported by the masses of downtrodden people.

San Miguel El Grande (to differentiate it from the myriad other San Miguels) became a center of revolutionary thinkers as the wealthy Mexican-born Spaniards (Creoles) chafed under Spanish rule. Ignacio Allende, a San Miguelense whose house is now a museum in San Miguel, and Father Hidalgo of Dolores joined forces and instigated the national uprising which would eventually lead to Mexico's independence. Balls were held at Allende's home to mask what were actually surreptitious meetings that brought together revolutionary minds from all over central Mexico: Ignacio Aldama, Josefa Ortiz, Juan Umaran, among many others.

After the 11-year struggle for independence finally succeeded, in 1826 San Miguel El Grande became San Miguel de Allende, in honor of its heroic native son. After the war, Mexico slumped under the burden of its newly gained independence. Mines were forsaken or destroyed; the abundance of Spanish elegance and opulence decayed and gradually died. San Miguel de Allende, no longer essential to the dying mining operations, became a sleepy, impoverished town. Although this depression was tragic at the time, it kept San Miguel cocooned in the past, in its colorful history, until the next great era.

The four of us in front of La Parroquia, that whimsical hallmark of San Miguel.

In 1926, 100 years after being declared a city, the federal government made San Miguel and its surrounding communities a Mexican National Monument. This keeps out modern architectural monstrosities and Highlands Ranch-type developments. So, if you sit in the Jardin and gaze up at La Parroquia, the city's enormous, well-known and delightfully gaudy wedding cake of a cathedral, you can listen to "Miguel" – Parroquia's largest, most vociferous bell – and transform the honking taxis to clip-clopping horseshoes and imagine yourself in a town emanating Spanish colonial splendor as well as revolutionary ideals 300 tumultuous years ago.

Foreigners and artists from all over the globe began to discover the wonderful atmosphere, laid-back lifestyle and fabulous "light" of San Miguel in the 1930s. But it wasn't until after World War II that a large influx of Americans began to move in.

Students who came down and never left founded San Miguel's now-famous schools of art and language. There are now about 3,000 expatriates living there, who are probably changed more by life in San Miguel than the town itself has changed in the last three centuries. There are still no stoplights, fast food franchises or neon signs, and the cobblestone streets, many probably older than the United States, are usually only wide enough to fit three burros and their master, much less three cars. The mixture of foreign and indigenous cultures has led to a remarkable ambience that is probably not duplicated anywhere else in the world.

I was jolted out of colonial Mexico by a bumpy landing in Los Angeles. A delay, a crowded flight to Mexico City and one four-hour bus trip finally brought us to Queretaro at 11 p.m. The hotel was lovely – we were welcomed by the mariachis playing in the bar, and the kitchen stayed open long enough for limonadas and quesadillas. I don't think falling into bed ever felt so good.

Leigh (12), Annie (6), Laurie (4) and I swam in the hotel pool the next morning. It was warm and surrounded by bougainvillea, azalea bushes and jacaranda trees bursting with bird songs we had never heard before. My mom sat in a chaise and just soaked up the joy of being back home. We collected our stuff, and after a delicious breakfast of fresh fruit, te de manzanilla, sopes (little tortillas with beans and cheese), pan dulce and a lovely white rose for Mom to celebrate Mother's Day – a very big holiday in Mexico – we crammed into a cab and headed for San Miguel.

Annie and Laurie walk down our little Callejon Atascadero.

The ride was not very long, but it was hot and bumpy. Mom talked to the personable driver, who unfortunately didn't have any idea where Colonia Atascadero, much less our villa was. We drove around on the winding cobblestone streets, sometimes stopping for directions, until we finally found a steep alley called Callejon Atascadero.

Our relief at having found it soon turned to dread as we looked at the nearly 90-degree angle of the hill, then our immensely heavy luggage, and felt the steady beating of the May sun on our backs. After several trips, we finally managed to get all our bags up to the house and nearly passed out at the door.

The "cinnamon villa," as we call it, has a comfortable, clean charm that looked particularly welcoming after panting and sweating up the hill. The front door is no longer operational; apparently they needed the counter space for the small kitchen, so the entrance we use is actually a side door. Some very peculiar architectural styles develop in these hill towns. The side door opens onto a small patio with a large, gnarled pepper tree on one side. There are chairs and a table, and it is a very pleasant place to eat breakfast.

From this door you enter the living room, small but comfortable, which leads into the kitchen, very small and not so comfortable. There is a gas stove, a table and four chairs (we use the stool in the living room for the fifth person), a minimal amount of counter space and a sink so shallow, water splurts into your face while you wash the dishes or your clothes.

The kitchen is adjacent to a bathroom with a spacious shower, blue and yellow tiles and a lovely, colorful painting on one wall, which I enjoy searching for interesting details. From the kitchen, a flight of concrete winding stairs leads to the two bedrooms and second bathroom. One bedroom has a large twin bed, a couch (which is attached to the wall, but is crooked), a small dresser and a tiny guest room with a good amount of shelf space, where we store most of our clothes, books, etc.

The window opens onto our little street, Callejon Atascadero, and when I awoke on our first morning I thought there was a group of raucous Mexican children right beside my bed. Apparently the walls are not very thick and do very little to stop the high-pitched chatter and squeals of young children skipping down the street. The master bedroom has a king-size bed, a closet and dresser (which we use as a medicine cabinet) and a small balcony overlooking the patio. It also has a window that opens onto the callejon and is, we have discovered, an excellent place to watch the torrent of water rush down the street after an "aguacero."

The second bathroom is minute, almost miniature in proportions. The sink and counter are squeezed underneath the little window, barely allowing room for five toothbrushes and toothpaste; the toilet is right next to the shower, which is cylindrical in shape and makes you feel as though you're bathing in a test tube. When you emerge from this cocoon, the hall feels deceivingly large and open, but this is only a temporary illusion as the hall is actually narrow and is adjoined by two flights of stairs, one leading downstairs and the other up to the rooftop margarita patio.

These stairs seemed quite treacherous at first, but now we can walk up them with gracious ease. They are white wrought iron and are not solid, so you can see all the way to the bottom of the next flight.

When you finally reach the door, it opens onto a large patio with a table and chairs and a wonderful view of the whole city, dominated by La Parroquia. This patio has become the center of many of Annie, Laurie and Leigh's games. They drop their dress-up clothes off the patio and watch them drift down to the driveway. This seems to keep them entertained for a long time!

Overall, the house is tastefully furnished, clean and comfortable, though a bit of a squeeze for our clan...

Our first priority after getting unpacked was to sally forth in search of food. Mercado Ignacio Ramirez was our first stop, and it was memorable – a hyper-stimulation of the senses. The constant cacophony of human voices – both raised in selling and lowered in conversation – the strumming of guitars sometimes accompanied by a crooning song, the dogs barking, the roosters crowing and the fireworks blasting in the distance all lead to a new definition of noise.

The ripe fruit – papaya, mango, limon, piña, melon, mamey – all scent the air like a thousand perfumes. The fragrances of tamales, enchiladas, empanadas and other miscellaneous delicacies sold by street vendors mingle tantalizingly in the air and are challenged, but not defeated, by odors produced by the town's decaying sewage system. The glowing orange of papaya flesh, the rainbow of colors woven into a sarape, the papier mache painted in vivid greens, bright blues, gleaming yellows, radiant reds, the cobalt blue, as deep as the Marianas Trench, splashed all over ceramic pots, vases and bowls all bombard your eyes and can only find expression in gasps and stiff, inadequate exclamations: "What a color!" "Have you ever seen anything like that?"

We were drawn to a stand with tropical fruit cascading down its sides. We began examining this array when a heavyset man with black tussled hair and a face covered in dark stubble came over, a look of mischief in his eyes. After a warm smile and a customary "Buenas tardes," he picked up a plump mango, peeled its thin skin and handed it to Mom. She bit into the pulp and a river of golden mango juice rushed down her chin. "¡Que rico, Señor!" The man grinned, nodded and peeled four more.

After buying mangos, papayas, piñas and the indestructible "bolsas" used by Mexicans and smart foreigners to carry everything from food to huaraches, we set off, lugging our two-ton bolsas, with streams of mango juice dribbling down our arms and faces, leaving a trail of sweet, sticky droplets behind us. The streets were crowded with families celebrating that most important holiday – Dia de las Madres! One trip to the market and I was already struck with admiration and joy at the generosity, irrepressible humor and warm charm of the Mexican people. And it was only the beginning.

Still reeling from our first trip to the market we struggled up the steep hill for the second time that day, scrubbed the mango juice off our skin, tossed our sticky clothes in a heap and fell into a sound sleep on our first night in our new hometown. It was almost impossible to believe our last day in Denver had been mere hours ago.

Posted by Court at 03:56 PM

Moving to San Miguel de Allende: Introduction

Kathleen Bohne

On May 9th of 2000, 15-year-old Kathleen Bohne, her mom (who grew up in Mexico City), and her three younger sisters embarked on a grand adventure: they went to live in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.

A 450-year-old colonial town of 100,000, located in the cradle of Mexican independence, San Miguel became their home for six months. The following are excerpts from the journal Kathleen kept while there. Hopefully they will open your eyes to an enchanting place and inspire you to experience it for yourself.

You can email Kathleen at Katis108@hotmail.com. Follow her and her family's travels via the links below.

Chapter 1: Journey & Arrival
In her first entry, Kathleen uses a boring flight to get to know the history of a town that was the birthplace of Mexican independence.

Chapter 2: La Vida Mexicana
One month, a new house, and not a single night without fireworks – plus the Dia de las Locos is fast approaching, and people are making costumes like crazy.

Chapter 3: The Purple Villa
Moving day introduces the girls to quite possibly the least macho man in Mexico. He's a good laugh though.

Chapter 4: Bellas Artes & Quirky Expatriates
The girls have gotten to know many of the native insects, as well as the expat art students at the Bella Artes where they spend much of their time.

Chapter 5: El Rancho
Good food, a search for turtles, and wonderful people – Kathleen hasn't had this much fun since, well, yesterday.

Chapter 6: Bulls, & the End of the Adventure
The runnings of the bulls is nothing compared to the crowds during San Miguels' festive September.

Posted by Court at 03:45 PM

Fear of Flying... with Children!

"Please don't let me be seated next to a baby! God, please don't let me be seated next to a baby!" This was my silent mantra in my previous life as a carefree, single woman. Back then, a screaming baby on an airplane was the worst form of punishment, second only to an overnight stay in jail. After all, a nice flight was supposed to involve reading a John Grisham novel or flirting with an attractive gentleman seated next to me. Being seated next to a drooling cracker-basher was not my idea of a good time.

Post-Flight Traumatic Stress Recovery Program

Finally on the ground in Italy, Page and her two kids take a break outside the Vatican museum in Rome.

Today, I am no longer a single girl praying to avoid the punishment of being seated next to a baby. Nowadays, I am the punishment. As I stand at the boarding gate with a 2-year-old and a 9-month-old, facing a 10-hour trans-Atlantic flight, I can see the abject panic in the eyes of my soon-to-be-fellow-passengers. They are not simply praying to God. They are bargaining with God:

"I'll never forget my mother's birthday again as long as I live. Just don't make me sit next to the toddler for 10-hours straight!"
"I'll never drink again as long as I don't have to sit right next to poopy diaper changes all night."
"Please God, don't let them sit behind me and kick the seat for ten hours."

I look around to see soon-to-be-fellow-passengers peering meekly from behind their Wall Street Journals or tour books. Everyone is captive, waiting for the draw of straws to see who has to sit next to the baby and toddler. Businessmen shift uncomfortably in their seats, either ignoring me or attempting a supportive smile. Hordes of hip teenagers, looking forward to their first overseas trip, show outright disdain. I, of course, am saying prayers of my own:

"Please God, let me be seated next to a Catholic nun who has taught kindergarten for 20 years."
"Just get me through this without either of the kids getting airsick."

"Please God, let this flight be nearly empty."

Thankfully, none of my soon-to-be-fellow passengers know the awful truth about us. What they see is two parents and two small children, providing a comfortable one-to-one parent/child ratio. Little do they know that this ratio is a mere façade. The family before them is actually compiled of an exhausted mother (the only fully functioning adult), a toddler, a teething baby, and a father who will start drooling from the mouth the minute the plane is in the air.

Most people would think that having my husband along to help on this flight would be a blessing. For the normal husband, this would be true. Unfortunately, when on an airplane, my husband is not a normal man. He is jelly. Overcome by both airsickness and an abhorrent fear of flying, my normally responsive and participatory husband is diminished to a withering blob. He is neither his usual cooperative nor accommodating self. He admits it. He apologizes for it. He just can't help it.

My husband is doing his best to put up a brave face in front of the children, lest they catch onto his pre-flight jitters, but I know he is awash in the bitter turmoil of a man facing certain death. At best, he will become a distant and tight-lipped man, waning in and out of a trance-like state. The Silas Marner of the friendly skies. At worst, he will become an armrest-clutching, cold-sweating, catatonic mute, who is throwing-up constantly. If my soon-to-be-fellow passengers only knew, they would surely book other flights.

We board the full flight with little incidence and then wait to see the poor prisoner who will sit next to us for ten hours of torture. A stuffy older businessman plops down next to my 9-month-old, resigned to his fate. I greet him politely. My baby whips a wet teething ring into his lap. I apologize. He hands back the sticky toy – and utters nary a word for the rest of the flight. Not that he would have been easily heard over the screaming that ensued for three hours.

Immediately after takeoff my husband is covered in a sheen of sweat and turns green. His shirt is soaked, and he goes into a stress-induced hypnotic state. I know that everything will be all right. As long as he doesn't start throwing up.

My 9-month-old doesn't like the situation as soon as we are airborne. For the next several hours, she either screams at the top of her lungs or insists on nursing profusely. The stoic businessman next to us is obviously uncomfortable with breastfeeding, twisting his body into a contorted position, lest he actually view a discreet lactation scene. He starts ordering LOTS of drinks.

Think the flight was bad? Try climbing a bell tower with one kid in tow, and another strapped to your back!

Luckily, my 2-year-old is enthralled by everything on the airplane: flip-down trays, flight attendants, drink carts, radio headphones, overhead buttons that light up, and food served on trays in little boxes. The nifty airplane toilets are of endless fascination to the newly potty-trained. My daughter insists on using the toilet at least once an hour for the sheer adventure of the "flush."

At a critical moment, I realize that the diaper bag has been stuffed under my husband's seat, an ill-advised location. Somehow, I must wake him from his coma and prod him into action.

I nudge him gently. "Honey? Honey, could you please hand me a diaper out of the diaper bag?" My opening lob is met with a blank stare masking startled confusion.

"I NEED a diaper out of the diaper bag. Can you reach it?" The urgency of my voice gets his attention at this point, but he appears to be deciphering my words as if they were spoken hieroglyphics.

"GET ME A DIAPER!" hissed at him in a loud, angry voice registers a flicker of recognition. He mutely grants my request, all the while doing an impressive imitation of Dustin Hoffman in the movie Rainman.

Finally, we reach London-Gatwick, England, where we camp out for our brief seven-hour layover. Unfortunately, my husband is overwrought, exhausted, and addled. He yells at a chipper British cashier at McDonald's for no good reason, and treats customs officials like they are enemy soldiers. Only the unwavering cheerfulness of the British public – and the fact that the airport police carry some pretty scary automatic weapons – save us from an international incident. As he stalks around with murder in his eyes, I make a mental note to do some research on post-traumatic-stress-disorder before our next overseas plane flight.

The final flight to Italy is fantastic. Happy and bright foreign flight attendants dote on my children. Plus the plane is nearly empty. Speeding blissfully toward Italy, I should have known it was too good to be true. Our landing in Venice is a descent into hell.

In a bizarre turn of events, my 2-year-old steadfastly refuses to suck on a lollipop as the plane begins to land. To those uninitiated in the ways of parenthood, this probably seems like no big deal. But without some sucking action during ascent and descent, small children do not clear their ears and are left with a raging earache. Sensing the panic in my voice, my husband springs to life and attempts to wrestle the lollipop into my daughter's mouth. As passengers begin to stare at the scene, I imagine being greeted at the airport by the Italian version of Child Protective Services. Finally, my husband succeeds and sits down triumphant.

Unfortunately, even if you can get a lollipop into a toddler's clenched mouth, you can't make them suck. My toddler is in agony as soon as we touch the ground. She screams at the top of her lungs and writhes on the floor. I fear she has ruptured an eardrum. All the other passengers disembark post-haste. The foreign flight attendant politely informs us that people normally use drugs in such a situation. Did we have any? She takes the shocked look on my face as a "no". The pilot orders us to kindly vacate the plane.

My toddler is unable to walk and we have too much luggage to carry her, so she is literally dragged, screaming down the stairs from the plane. We are greeted by a bus full of fellow-passengers who are none to happy that we have held the bus up on the tarmac. Scowls and dirty looks abound. I step on board the bus and shout out a bold "Howdy y'all!" in my best imitation of a Texas accent. It was my finest moment of the voyage.

In Venice, on the black, midnight water we are transformed. With a bracing January wind in our faces everyone becomes calm and happy, despite 24 hours of travel with little sleep. As a mother, I have reason to hope again. I no longer have a fear of flying with children. After all, I have already been through the worst.

Posted by Court at 03:45 PM

Baby Takes Off

If you think your traveling days are behind you once you have a baby, think again. With a little advance planning, traveling with babies is not only possible, it can be enjoyable for you and your child.

Admittedly, it is extra work. Just because you leave home doesn't mean you leave your parental responsibilities behind. As with almost all travel situations, planning ahead is key. Here are some things to think about before you take off:

Where Will You Sit?

Consider Buying a Seat for Your Child

Dirty Diapers: A Never-Ending Problem

Milk, Bottles & Food

Watch Your Child At All Times

Ear Pressure

Laugh Your Cares Away

List of Links

Where Will You Sit?
As a general rule, the aisle seat is not a good idea for a small child. They have a startling capacity to grab at anything that passes by – skirts, luggage, drink carts, etc. They can also get their little fingers squished by a passing drink cart and you'll spend at least 20 minutes consoling a screaming babe. The only exception to this rule is for the toilet-trained toddler. A newly toilet-trained child (ages 2 to 4) may need quick and regular access to the potty. It is unfair to have your anxious child scramble over some poor soul every hour for a potty break. Consider putting toilet-trained toddlers on the aisle if they can be trusted to keep their hands out of the aisle traffic.

What about bulkhead seating? This subject brings up quite a debate in parenting circles. The bulkhead is the first row of seats on the plane where you are facing a wall, generally behind first class. There is more legroom and extra space for movement. Newer model planes and European airbuses often have fold-down bassinets in the bulkhead that are ideal for infants under 30 pounds and less than 27 inches long. For the older toddler, the bulkhead may be more difficult since there are no drop-down tray tables. Instead, tray tables come out of the armrest and lay across the seat. Some toddlers may find this restricting and once again, little fingers can get caught in these specialized tray tables. Also, there is no convenient under-the-seat storage for bulkhead seating. The bottom line is that you know your child best, so make seating arrangements according to their needs, not yours! Check out the website www.travelwithyourkids.com for more seating info. Back to top

Consider Buying a Seat for Your Child
Most airlines allow children under the age of 2 to fly free as a "lap baby". This is a bad idea, for two reasons:

First of all, you will have to hold your baby in your lap for the entire flight. That means no eating, sleeping, or reading magazines for you. Prepare for this by trying to restrain your child in your lap for two hours in your living room (not too much fun, huh?).
Secondly, heavy turbulence may result in a lap baby being plastered to the ceiling of the plane. A rough landing or an emergency landing are both very dangerous situations for lap babies. For those of you who are scientifically inclined, my physics-oriented husband explains that a 20-lb child going 600 mph has the inertia of a 400-lb man going 30 mph. Try holding on to that much weight during a crisis!

The FAA strongly recommends that you buy your child a seat and bring an infant car seat for safety. Most airlines sell seats for children at a discounted rate for overseas flights (10% to 30% off the regular price). Check with the individual airline. For more details, try the website www.airsafe.com/kidsafe/chldseat.htm. Back to top

Dirty Diapers: A Never-Ending Problem
Where to change the baby is a difficult dilemma on an airplane. Unless you are flying on a newer model airplane, it is unlikely that there will be baby-changing tables in the restrooms. Trying to change your baby on top of the toilet seat will be like trying to strangle an angry octopus in a telephone booth. Your best bet is to find a row of empty seats or put a blanket on the floor. I have seen desperate parents use the fold-down tray tables for changing small babies, but this is risky for two reasons: 1) Some of those tray tables aren't too sturdy; and 2) People eat their food on the fold-down tray tables – yuck!

It's always a good idea to do a diaper change before boarding your flight. Bring along enough diapers to get you through the flight and the following day, just in case of airport delays, long layovers, or basic heavy-diaper usage. It goes without saying that disposable diapers are the best way to go. There's no need to pack seven days worth of diapers. You should be able to buy disposable diapers in most countries, but be sure to check on this before you leave.

By the way, according to FAA guidelines, flight attendants cannot handle soiled diapers. Flight attendants touch a lot of food, so this makes sense if you think about it. Therefore, don't make the mistake of trying to hand a dirty diaper to a flight attendant for disposal. Find the garbage yourself. The book Have Kids, Will Travel by Claire Tristram offers more helpful hints. Back to top

Milk, Bottles & Food
As always, breastfeeding is the best way to go. Milk is always ready at the right temperature, and you don't have to worry about sterile bottles or nipples. Because flying can mean tight quarters in a public situation, consider investing in specialized nursing clothes for easy access with an emphasis on discretion. Try websites such as www.onehotmama.com for great nursing fashions. If you can sew, patterns for nursing mothers are available at www.elizabethlee.com.

Life with bottles can be a lot more difficult. If things are not too busy, the flight attendants may offer to warm a bottle of milk or baby food for you. However, approaching them with this request during the middle of the dinner service is generally not a good idea. Some formula companies make formula in a ready-to-use bottles specifically for traveling. These are spectacularly handy as long as your baby isn't fussy about trying a new nipple. See websites such as www.rosstore.com/pediatric.cfm for an example of the Similac Ready-to-Feed Bottle.

Unfortunately, these pre-made bottles can be quite pricey and heavy to carry. If they are outside you budget, measure the correct amount of water into disposable bottles and keep a proper measurement of powdered formula in little baggies. When the time comes, just add the formula to the water and you're ready to go.

If your child is taking solids, bring along some of their favorite jarred foods (mid-air is NOT the time to introduce new foods) and a favorite spoon. For older toddlers, be sure to request a children's meal when booking the flight. If you've got a picky eater, bring your own food as a back-up. I discovered that disposable bibs were invaluable while traveling. I use the Safety 1st Disposable Bibs available at www.babyproofingplus.com/itm00160.htm. Some folks also recommend PIBs Disposable Bibs, at www.pibsonaroll.com.

A final note on airline food: most small children don't like peanuts, spill them easily and can choke on them. Bring along a favorite kiddy snack yourself. Back to top

Watch Your Child At All Times
Flight attendants are not babysitters, so plan accordingly. Do not allow your child to wander around the plane. There are plenty of dangerous areas for an unescorted toddler to get into trouble (such as bathrooms, galleys, hot drinks to knock over, etc.). Depending on the age of your child, you should consider bringing stickers, magnetic games, books, and quiet toys. The website www.flyingwithkids.com has lots of helpful tips for little boys and girls. Back to top

Ear Pressure
Small babies and toddlers often have trouble clearing their ears during ascent and descent. Unless you take action, they will resort to the classic technique of screaming their lungs out to relieve the ear pressure pain. Though screaming actually does help the little ones clear their ears, it is unnerving for most parents and exasperating to other passengers.

To avoid this, make sure your child is sucking constantly during ascent and descent. Wake them even if they are sleeping soundly. A bottle, pacifier, lollipop, or juice box will work well to clear ear pressure. There are earplugs that can clear ear pressure problems in both children and adults. The trick is getting your child to wear them, so keep that lollipop or bottle handy! See this site for more details. Finally, if your child has a cold or an ear infection, do not fly without consulting your pediatrician first. Back to top

Laugh Your Cares Away
Lastly, don't forget to pack your sense of humor. As any parent knows, babies and toddlers can bring about some of the most embarrassing situations. A joke at the right moment or a funny face can cut the tension and put everyone at ease. Most of your fellow travelers will have a great deal of empathy for you and your child, no matter what happens. Simply ignore any curmudgeon who is giving you a foul look, and keep on with your life.

Remember to enjoy it, too. You're creating memories that will last a lifetime. And you'll be surprised at what your child will remember! Back to top

List of Links
Here is a list of all the links mentioned in this article (to keep this page open while you explore, right-click the links and select "Open in New Window"):

Seating and other travel tips:
www.travelwithyourkids.com
www.flyingwithkids.com
Child seats:
www.airsafe.com/kidsafe/chldseat.htm
Claire Tristram's Have Kids, Will Travel
Nursing clothes:
www.onehotmama.com
www.elizabethlee.com
Similac Ready-to-Feed Bottle:
www.rosstore.com/pediatric.cfm
Safety 1st Disposable Bibs:
www.babyproofingplus.com/itm00160.htm
PIBs Disposable Bibs:
www.pibsonaroll.com
Ear Pressure Relief:
www.aeromedix.com/products/earplanes/earplanes.html

Note: The author cautions the air-traveling public that she will be flying trans-Atlantic with her children.

Posted by Court at 03:45 PM

Roadtrip Tips for Kids in Cars

"The whole idea of a family vacation is to spend time together as a family. You get on an airplane, you put on your earphones and you're lost in your own world. I'm looking forward to an awfully long ride together. After all, half the fun is getting there."

– Clark Griswold, National Lampoon's Vacation

Page's youngest, strapped into the backseat and looking like one rough rider.

If you honestly think "getting there is half the fun," you've obviously never spent a lot of time in the car with children. For the most part, the only fun is finally reaching your destination. As a veteran road trip mom, I can tell you that hitting the road with the children can be a daunting task. However, a little advance planning can make the difference between the nightmare from hell or a tolerable situation. Here are some things to think about.

Before You Leave
- Plan Your Itinerary
- Clean the Car
- Pack the Essentials
Diversions
- Infants/Toddlers
- Terrible Two's

- Preschoolers
- Grade School & Up
- Desperation
- "Are We There Yet??"
- Snacks
- Diversions Along the Way
Last Words

Before You Leave

Plan Your Itinerary
This may seem obvious, but many parents skip this key step. Plan your days in the car with potty breaks at specific rest stops, targeted towns for the lunch hour and hotel reservations where you plan to stay overnight. Otherwise, you'll miss lunch because you're two hours away from the nearest town while your kids turn grouchy from low blood sugar. Then you'll find a small town with nothing but "no vacancy" signs at the end of a rough day on the road. Spontaneity with kids is fine, but always have a back-up plan in place.
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Clean the Car
Before you leave, CLEAN YOUR CAR!! This seems counter-intuitive, I'll admit. Why clean your car before you leave, when it will only get trashed on the road? The answer is that humans are much less likely to mess up a clean space than an area that is already filthy. If you start out with crumb-crusted seatbelts and snot-caked windows, I guarantee you that things will only get worse. Visit your local do-it-yourself car wash on your way out of town, and make your car a happy environment to live in for 8-plus hours a day.

Vacuum out the vehicle so you don't feel like you're vacationing in a garbage truck. Clean the interior windows, wipe off interior doors, dust the dashboard, etc.

All the same, realize that you will have to do this again immediately upon your return. After two or more days on the road with children, the interior of your car will not be a pretty sight!
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Pack the Essentials

First Aid Kit
Band-aids, thermometer, children's Tylenol and Sudafed (ditto for adults), butterfly bandages, Pepto-Bismol, an anti-diarrheal (for adults only, not recommended by the AAP for kiddos), salt pills, an oral rehydration solution (to combat the diarrhea/dehydration dangers in small children), paperback version of Dr. Spock, phone number and after-hours exchange of pediatrician. If you're heading to wilderness areas, think about including a snakebite kit. A venomous snake that will make an adult extremely sick has the capacity to kill a small child in a very short period of time.
Backseat Organizer
Storage is at a premium on road trips. Consider investing in pockets that hang on the back of the driver and passenger seats, to help little backseat passengers keep things organized. Backseat pockets can provide storage for all the games, toys, snacks, tapes, and coloring books that will be necessary to occupy your youngsters for long periods of time. Go to www.kelgar.com/Travel/travel.html for an example of this helpful item.
Wet Wipes
Pick your favorite brand, and remember that these will be your best friends in just about any situation involving children. Buy twice as much as you think you will need.
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Diversions

When you're cramming your kids in the car for hours on end, it is reasonable that you provide some form of kiddie entertainment so they don't drive you absolutely crazy! If you're doing a long haul, consider buying new toys – something they haven't played with before and haven't become bored with.

Below is a list of age-appropriate diversions that can help you out. This is in no way a complete listing, so use your imagination – you know your child best! Also, see the fabulous website www.familyonboard.com for great travel toys and distractions.
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Rugrats
Infants & Non-walking/Non-talking Toddlers
Stuffed animals, rattles, busy boxes, board books (be sure to look out for choking items!). Also include a favorite blanket or cuddly stuffed animal. Some small children can become very out-of-sorts by a change of environment. Having a familiar item can provide invaluable reassurance.
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L'enfante Terrible
The Terrible Two-Year-Old
Undoubtedly, this is the toughest age to deal with in the car – or in just about any other situation. Go for a mix of toddler toys and preschooler toys, depending on the developmental stage of your child. The book Peekaboo and Other Games to Play With Your Baby by Shari Steelsmith has plenty of hints for the difficult toddler stage. Important Warning: Don't forget to stash a potty seat in the trunk if you're potty training. You may be doing a lot of unplanned potty stops!
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Young & Innocent
Preschoolers & Kindergartners
Books on tape with headphones, Viewmasters, kaliedescopes, Lift-the-Flap books, finger puppets, stickers. I especially like reusable stickers like Colorforms, but remember that these can be choking hazards for children under 3!
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Hip Sophisticates
Grade School Children & Up
With this group, consider including them in on the trip planning. Youngsters can learn to navigate using maps (but check their work – kids can also get you pretty lost). They may also be interested in learning about the states/regions you are traversing, so provide some informative books. Also, think about chapter books, Gameboys, car bingo, magnetic checkers/chess, etc.
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Desperation
Spending consecutive days in the car? Consider a car television. Yes, this may make you feel like a failure as a parent, but remember: your sanity is important too. Admittedly, this is an expensive item, and I only recommend investing in one if you're a fervent road trip family. Again, go to www.familyonboard.com for more information.

My basic rule of thumb with the television is as follows: if the trip is six hours or less, then no television. The kiddos are expected to entertain themselves with the myriad of toys provided and remain civil without the TV. However, any trip over six hours and extending to 10 or 12 hours, I will haul out the television without remorse.
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"Are We There Yet??"
Yes, this is the world's most annoying question. But in their defense, I must point out that small children often do not have an accurate grasp of time. If they're bored, it may seem like hours since they've asked the annoying question, when actually it has only been 5 minutes. Some ideas to combat the interrogation include:

Prepare little gift-wrapped packages – one for each hour on the road. Tell the kids that they will receive a little surprise each hour and that constantly questioning arrival time will delay the gift by five minutes. A little incentive never hurt anyone!
Speaking of incentives – make up an "incentive chart", with columns for each hour on the road. At the top of the hour, each child gets to put a sticker of their choice (dinosaurs, PowerPuff Girls, Disney pals, etc.) on the chart. This will better help them understand the passage of time if they can't read the clock.
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Snacks
A hungry kid is a grumpy kid. Pack food that is fun and not too messy. Focus on items that are not too high in sugar or too salty (then the kids will be terribly thirsty and you'll be making more potty stops than you thought!). Little boxes of animal crackers are a big hit with my kids. The little animals act out many adventures before being eaten! For drinks, consider juice boxes – they're hard to spill. Also bring several bottles of water. These are perfect for quenching thirst, as well as providing liquid for impromptu clean-ups.
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Diversions Along the Way
Think about stopping for an hour at a child-oriented place. This does not mean that you have to seek out the local Chuck E. Cheese or McDonalds restaurant (God forbid!). Instead, think creatively – an Amish restaurant in the Midwest or a local playground. Try picnicking for lunch at a National Park or near the ocean. Include older children in planning fun stops with an activity involved. Also, consider taking some extra time at a rest-stop to run the kids around. Rest-stop fun can include a blow-up beach ball, soap bubbles, a kite, or a Frisbee.
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Last Words

My basic rule is no more than 8 hours in the car a day for kids – this includes a stop for lunch. I've done 10 hours straight, and I can tell you from experience that the last 2 hours were unbearable for everyone in the vehicle, adults as well as kids.

Finally, take pride in a job well done. It takes guts to drive cross-country with kids. Not everyone can take the mind-bending agony you're brave enough to endure. You've got the inner fortitude and true strength of a devoted parent. Good luck and Godspeed!
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Posted by Court at 03:45 PM

Member Visit: Lisa Elford & Arun Cook

Lisa and Arun had been in the USA for about two months, roadtripping across the country when they arrived at Boots HQ late on a Saturday night. A chance to stretch out after being cooped up in a rental car was welcome relief.

Arun and Lisa

After some initial shyness, Arun was full of energy and stories of places he'd been and things he'd seen in his travels across the country. DisneyWorld in Florida was certainly high on his list, with the French Quarter in New Orleans, Graceland and the Grand Canyon not far behind.

Lisa had sold up just about everything at home in London to finance a RTW trip that will take her and Arun from the States to Fiji, Australia, Thailand and India. From staying with people in New York she contacted via the Internet, Lisa was amazed to discover a guy who needed his van driven to the west coast; he asked her if she would like to do that. She gratefully accepted and saved a bunch on accommodation, as most hostels still charged her full price for Arun, who is 7.

Lisa and Arun stopped off in Eugene because they were heading off to the annual Burning Man Festival in Nevada. The Green Tortoise bus stops off here on its way south from Seattle, and since they could catch it from Eugene to get out to the desert, it only made sense to stop in with us for a while too.

At 7 years old, Arun is our youngest Boots member - and possibly the most energetic, too.

Arun and Lisa took off on Aug. 28, and when they returned from Burning Man on Sept. 3 they looked like a couple of road warriors. For a couple of Londoners the desert was a new experience, a "leveler" as Lisa described it. Water was scarce, and you had to bring that and all your other supplies and necessities with you, as well as pack everything out at the end of Burning Man. Here's a free desert survival tip, by the way: The Nevada desert sands are very alkaline, and when you walk on them constantly you need to rub your feet with lemon juice. The acid in the lemon balances the ph.

As they recounted their experiences, they said the Green Tortoise bus picked them up in Eugene, and an hour later they were cavorting naked in a hot spring with the entire group of passengers. This is one of the things the Green Tortoise is known for, and they have only 2 rules:

No cigarettes
No shoes on the bus

Everything else is very laidback, so much so they even have beds on the bus.

They arrived the next day at Black Rock City, the unofficial town that is home to the people who come for Burning Man. It is near the real town of Gerlach, Nevada. The bus parked right next to the "kids' camp," much to Lisa's relief. Arun instantly made new friends and was able to enjoy his own space without Mum having to watch him all the time.

Sean and Chris make Arun one of the men, and fit him with his first BootsnAll cap. He'll have to wait a little longer for his first homebrew though.

Lisa told us the Burning Man festival had many aspects to it, and people were encouraged to "be themselves" and not stress on what other people thought. Many revelers took this as a sign to be very creative with costumes and themes ranging from creating lightning, to a climbing exhibit to the "violence tent".

Lisa liked the way people were not judgmental, and how everone helped each other and were creating an atmosphere of peace and harmony. She also liked the fact that the Green Tortoise had the best food selection of any group there. According to her it was the best food she had eaten while in the US. The company had a bus filled with supplies, and they were constantly bringing out even more decadent offerings: poached/grilled salmon, fresh muffins, fruit salads, cheesecake, etc. In fact, other revelers came over when they heard about the spread on show.

The Burning Man festival often gets wacky, and Lisa found herself getting Shanghai'd into riding bicycles around the camp with a large group of women... topless.

We saw a lot of Arun's grin, and this is one of the few shots we were able to get of him being still!

For people contemplating the next Burning Man, Lisa advises getting a tent that can keep the dust and sand out, as her ventilated tent filled up every time there was a sandstorm. Sharing is a big thing too, so bring small creative gifts to pass to strangers, plus things like vodka that people will appreciate. If you don't want to appear to be a "spectator" try to at least have some kind of costume or outfit. A bicycle is also makes it easier to get around Black Rock City.

There was a sadness in the air the morning after the "Man" was burned, and Lisa found it quite moving at times. Hopefully the Boots Boys will be making an appearance at next year's.

A couple of nights R&R here in Eugene helped Lisa and Arun prepare for the next leg of their trip. They're driving down the coast to the Redwoods, then on to Los Angeles. They will then fly out to Fiji, and we had to break the news that the flight wasn't four hours as they expected, but 11 hours. Fortunately for Lisa, Arun says he loves flying. He even says he loves airline food.

Click here for Lisa's posts on our message boards

Click here for a video of Arun describing where he's been

Click here for a video of Arun giving a news report on Burningman

If you're travelling to the West Coast of the USA and want to make a stop in Eugene, Oregon, click here for details on where to find us.

Back to Members That Have Stayed With Us

Posted by Court at 03:45 PM

Why Not Try Family Hostelling?

Many people think hostelling is just for singles and young adults – the college crowd. We've discovered it's also great for families with school-age children. In fact, we can't think of a better way to connect with other travelers, learn new things about the world, and have lots of fun together.

The hostel we stayed at in Redwood National Park, California.

When we hostel, we typically stay in a private family room and make use of shared bathroom facilities. We've always found the bathrooms adequately clean. Though at most hostels, private rooms are in short supply, but we usually don't have trouble getting one if we book far enough in advance and travel during off-peak times.

Some hostels offer free morning breakfasts. One we visited in California had sourdough pancakes every morning. One we stayed at in Germany had bread rolls, cheeses, meat slices, juice, and cereals.

Inside a family room at a California hostel.

More commonly, hostels in the USA have kitchen facilities that are open to guests. Expect to find pots, pans, plates, cups, silverware, and plenty of refrigerator space. Eating in, rather than going to a restaurant every night, enables us to save bundles on our food bill. Typically, with such an arrangement, we shop at the local grocery stores, and eat like royalty for less than $40 a day (and that includes snacks we may purchase during the day while out exploring). Often we spend half that amount. Two or three days in a row of that sort of savings leaves us plenty for an occasional splurge in a fancy restaurant.

Usually, the hostel's kitchen will have shelves where guests can leave their food. Simply put your name on each item, and then find yourself an empty space on the shelf to store your stuff. There is also a refrigerator where you may keep perishable food. Of course, when you use the hostel's kitchen, you must clean up after yourself. That's part of the deal.

Morning chores are also a time to pitch in. Usually lasting no more than 15 minutes, chores might include vacuuming the carpet in the common area, sweeping the mats, cleaning the shower, or taking out the garbage. The reason for chores is so the hostels won't need to pay to have all of the cleaning done. This translates into lower lodging prices for guests.

Hostels generally close during the days (around 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.). If you're the type who likes to hang out in a hotel room all day, you'll feel like you're getting kicked out. On the other hand, if you're the type who likes to explore, you won't have any complaints. We generally get out the door at 10 a.m. on the dot. Mandy and Heidi are NOT morning people.

In the evenings, we enjoy the company of other travelers in the commons area that doesn't have a TV. Sometimes if there are musical instruments in the hostel (and people who can play them), we entertain ourselves with live music. More often, our children play board games with each other or find another hosteller to join in.

I'm not much of a games person. I much prefer meeting and talking with the other guests. On our most recent family vacation, we stayed in four different hostels. Here's a sampling of the people we met:

A freelance accountant from Juneau, Alaska who travels several months a year.
A man who worked for 10+ years as a teacher of English and editor of a magazine in Japan.
A student from Bombay, India, who is in the USA studying to be an engineer.
A cartoonist and computer animation specialist from Germany who hopes to find a job in the USA.
A recently graduated chiropractor, in the process of building a new practice in the Bay Area.
A woman who works in fundraising for an animal rights nonprofit organization.
Two graduate physics students from Germany.
An actor from LA who has a clowning business on the side.
An English woman who just graduated from college in the UK and is on a journey around the world. She wants to get a graduate degree in geography, and one of the prerequisites for her chosen program is to spend at least one year traveling.
A young British woman on assignment with a major newspaper in the UK. She is traveling the globe, writing articles about the places she visits.
Two women who have a guitar/violin duo. They have performed at night clubs in Ireland and England, and are now performing in the USA.

As a rule, the hostellers we met were creative, highly educated, well-traveled, and had lots to talk about. So this more than made up for not having a TV.

One of our day hikes while hostelling. This was taken on top of San Luis Peak near San Luis Obispo.

Oh, and two more things:

Hostelling is usually much less expensive than staying in a hotel (for family accommodation, we paid around $50 a night)
Hostellers have access to lots of helpful tips from the staff for things like where the best and most affordable restaurants are, good hiking trails, cultural events, and more.

Granted, hostelling won't suit every family. However, if you enjoy meeting new people, prefer staying in home-like accommodations, don't mind pitching in to keep things clean, have a limited budget, and are fascinated with learning about other places and cultures, you may discover, as we have, that hostelling is a great way to go.

John O. Andersen is a self-employed carpet cleaner in Portland, Oregon. He and his wife Mandy have two children. In his spare time, John volunteers as a docent at the Oregon History Center, and the Oregon Military museum. John lived in England for four years as a maintenance officer in the Air Force. He speaks German fluently. Travel is his lifelong passion. For other essays by John, go to www.unconventionalideas.com.

Posted by Court at 03:43 PM

Sprogs Abroad: Travels with My Daddy

Today is a very special day. I am going on my first trip abroad with my mummy and daddy. I don't really know where we are going or why but it's all terrible exciting.

Mummy has told me not to worry or be too scared as she says that Daddy spends half his life travelling abroad and is really an expert in these things. Looking at him struggling with the three cases, two carry-on bags and changing bag you would never have guessed. Look, he's forgotten my favourite teddy-bear. Perhaps if I kick my legs in the air and have a little bit of a cry he will remember and put it in his pocket for me...

Right, that's better. A little boy can't be expected to travel the world without his favourite teddy bear can he? I mean, I may be all of three months old and already a man of the world with my own passport and airmiles card, but some things just aren't done are they?

Daddy is looking quite stressed. Mummy is rushing around trying to get organised. Last night I watched them wrap lots of presents up with pretty coloured paper. Daddy told me all about Christmas and visiting Granny and Granddad Cloggy (as he calls my Dutch family). Of course it's all new to me, and I think I will have trouble sleeping on my way to the airport as I am so excited.

Daddy is now packing his own case. Almost every week since I have been born I have laid in my cot and watched him struggle to squeeze everything in. I don't know where he goes when he goes away with his case, but Mummy says it's to see his mistress in Helsinki. Mummy hasn't explained what a mistress is but I don't think it can be too bad as every time daddy comes back he always has presents for mummy and I. Last week he bought me a football shirt from somewhere called Denmark – its too big for me now but next summer I shall definitely look the part in it. Perhaps that cute little baby Sophie from the nursery will be impressed.

It's now time to go. Daddy has arranged for his normal driver to collect us and drive us to the airport. Neither mummy or daddy wanted to drive as they told me that the M25 was always busy and not much fun. This worries me as the last time daddy said something wasn't fun he took me to the doctor's for some injections that hurt terribly. Daddy can be so nasty sometimes.

Whilst Daddy straps me into the car seat mummy is helping the driver with the bags. It's funny, but Mummy and I have often waved out the window to the driver and his car seems much bigger when it's only daddy and his small case than with all of our things. I just hope that when we get to Holland my blanket and rattle are still there. Daddy seems to be focusing on all the wrong things and is rushing around muttering about passports, medication and tickets when he really needs to worry about my teddy bear and rattle. Silly daddy.

Our driver's car is much nicer than either mummy's or daddy's. Mummy's always smells of leaking oil and Daddy's is too small and noisy for my liking. This one seems much nicer; leather seats, soft music and the temperature is just right. Mummy and daddy sit in the back, and I am allowed to sit up front in my car-seat and keep an eye on the driver, who seems more interested in making faces at me than keeping his eye on the road. Frankly I find this rather worrying (though, of course, I am a handsome little man, and get this response everywhere I go) and wonder if this is why Daddy always comes back from his travels looking shattered. Poor daddy.

The traffic it seems isn't too bad, and I am able to let mummy and daddy close their eyes and get some rest on the way. The driver, who now seems to be concentrating on the road a little more, is amusing enough to keep me interested. Poor Daddy has big black bags under his eyes and looks like he needs a rest anyway. Mummy I notice has dribbled on Daddy's shirt. Poor Daddy again. But look, we are arriving at the airport now.

As Mummy loads all the bags onto a trolley the driver helps Daddy lift me into the baby carrier and we head off towards the terminal. Daddy has told me lots of horror stories about how busy it always is and how long we will have to queue. I hope he is teasing me (as he does when he tells me that I am going to get a Manchester United shirt for Christmas) as I am getting a bit hungry. As much as I like hanging here on Daddy's chest, he really isn't equipped for dinnertime.

Check-in, Daddy tells me, can often take forever. He normally travels business class so that he doesn't have to queue, but Mummy refuses to pay business prices for us and Daddy thinks we might be stuck here forever and a day. Mummy tells Daddy that he is a snob, which seems to upset Daddy.

As we are standing in the queue and Daddy is singing a nice little song to me, a kind lady in a blue uniform asks us if we would like to go to the front of the queue. She smiles at Daddy and makes lots of encouraging cooing noises in my direction and asks for our documents. Daddy hands over tickets, passports and bags. The kind lady says I look even more handsome in the flesh than I do in my passport picture. I roll my eyes and humour her. I had that picture taken when I was three days old – I am now a grand old man of three months, of course I am going to be more handsome. Silly lady.

Now we have our tickets, and it's time to go through immigration and customs. Daddy tells me that today the airport is really quiet. I am quite pleased. There is already a lot to look at; pretty girls in strange clothes, people of all skin colours, sparkling Christmas decorations and lots and lots of sounds. It's all terribly exciting and I can't understand why Daddy gets cross at having to come to the airport all the time.

A nice man in a turban asks us to go to the front of the queue (Daddy howls with laughter at the cross-looking business men who look daggers at us), and after emptying his pockets – car keys, chewing gum, coins, my teddy bear, cell phone – he walks me through the metal detector. I am a little bit disappointed we don't set the alarm off but have to keep a good eye out to make sure my teddy doesn't get lost. Once he is safely tucked away again it's off for some lunch. I am looking forward to a refreshing and healthy snack of milk whilst Mummy and Daddy are looking forward to a McDonald's.

I really enjoy my lunch. There is nothing better than dining alfresco and as soon as Mummy has changed me (opps, sorry daddy, I am sure the stain will come out) Daddy takes me for a walk around the airport. There are so many things to do – shops to look in, new smells and sounds to experience, strange and interesting people to look at and some last minute presents to buy. Whilst we are walking around Mummy finds a quiet corner to sit down and close her eyes.

My head is just getting heavy and I am thinking about having a short nap when Daddy announces that our flight has been called. We rush back to Mummy, wake her up and head off to the gate. Daddy tells me that sometimes at Heathrow it can take 10 minutes to walk to the gate, but he says, rather ominously, Amsterdam is much worse. Mummy gives him a dirty look. At the gate another nice lady, who makes a real fuss of me (aren't I just a real lady killer?) escorts us to the plane. Daddy explains that we get priority as it might take us a little more time to get settled. It's really getting exciting now and I can't wait to take off.

I have decided to sit on Daddy's lap for the duration of the flight and Mummy's on the way home. The stewardess gives me a special seat belt and straps me in. Mummy is next to me and I can see Teddy poking out of Daddy's pocket. I guess he is excited too.

The plane is soon full and a safety demonstration is given (Daddy explains this to me as Mummy looks around worried). Daddy also tells me not to be too scared when we take off, and I notice that he has my comforter ready just in case. I gurgle away happily and try to not feel too scared – after all, I am a world traveller now.

The engines fire up and the plane begins to shake. Mummy looks distinctly grey now. Daddy has closed his eyes. The plane rattles and shakes and I am rocked around on Daddy's lap. I am not scared as there are too many sights and sounds to keep me amused, besides it's just like driving in Daddy's car. By the time we level out and are cruising above the clouds it's time for another snack. Mummy has a coke and a piece of carrot cake, Daddy has a beer and I have some more milk. Mummy then winds me and I let out a cracking burp. People at the front turn round and smile at me whilst Daddy sniggers into his beer. "Like father like son," Mummy giggles.

I am really enjoying this. Everyone keeps smiling at me and pulling silly faces. The stewardess has been round three times to see if I want to play – of course I don't, can't she see I am having my after dinner snack? And then, just when things are getting a little boring and I am drifting off to sleep, the plane begins to descend into Amsterdam. Daddy tells me this might be painful to my little ears and again offers me my comforter. But I don't need it and we are soon on the ground at the terminal. As Daddy lifts me into the carrier and straps me to this chest I can't help but think this is all too easy and Daddy must get paid a lot of money for doing nothing. I mean, any fool can sit on a plane twice a week can't they?

We bounce through the terminal doing all the things we did in Heathrow, except in reverse. We collect our bags, show our passports and wander out to the terminal. Grandad Cloggy is there to collect us and drive us home. I have so much to tell him, but right now I am a tired little boy and it will have to wait. Perhaps, travelling the world for a living isn't so much fun after all.

Posted by Court at 03:43 PM

Rebirth of a Fleeting Moment

The steady beat of the waves taking out the tide calms my mind like a metronome. On a remote beach, there is no one here but us. Adrenaline is pumping and my daughter's every muscle is ready to go. She is filled with the potential of everything around us. I revel in this moment. The thrill of discovery that came to me so many years ago has come again. This time, though, I am a mere observer.

The world surrounding us has never been seen nor touched before - in her five years of existence. How does that hermit crab get in there? A slight Mona-Lisa smile creeps across her face. She's tucked in there so tight! Keen eyes are filled with concentration and wonder. Her world's first-ever crustacean is gently rocked back and forth by tiny fingers, carefully avoiding the pinching claws. I catch just a split second of "the look," her magical glance of overarching thrill at discovering the unimaginable.

We take the seaside like a storm, not the typical lazing, sun-worshippers basking on other beaches. Our interchangeable titles include marauding pirate, seascape artist, wave conqueror, rock climber, treasure hunter, wildlife photographer, and meticulous shell collector. The intensity of childhood energy abounds.

It is a blessing to be able to relieve this exhilaration of innocent discovery. I think back and remember - the last time I held an animal I never knew existed. The thrill of connecting with something absolutely and totally unknown. The titillation of holding my first earthworm. It's been a long time.

Perhaps this is why I feel compelled to travel to far-flung beaches, beyond the typical family amusement park vacation scene - to recapture that glorious feeling, to taste undiscovered foods, to seek out rare flora and fauna, and to meet new peoples of different cultures.

Parenthood brings its own reward of innocent discovery as my children forge the momentum to adventure. Everyday life is an unending expedition. Combining children and travel is a true miracle, opening up new realms of opportunity, offering fresh insights within the shared experience and a new appreciation of life in our vast world.

Unblinking, my littlest artist has found a new medium. A smile rips across her face as she reaches the cold, wet sand - perfect for creating her sculpture. Sand - that's all it takes to bring fulfillment to her creative mind. Salt water, shells and sand are reshaped into a medieval fortress and a robust drama of pretend-castle-life breaks forth. A three-year old imagination opens doors to a long-lost world that is often forgotten in my busy daily life.

It has been a hard won battle, the metamorphasis to parenthood. A bond wrought by exhaustive nights, teething, colic, and terrifying emergency room trips has brought me closer to my children than to any other human beings. Like the ocean before us, the journey has been fraught with riptides, currents and the occasional hurricanes. Despite all, we are whole as a family, conquering the fresh territory my children find everywhere.

Mommy, how does sand move? What makes a shell? The questions are now as endless as the waves pouring in. My children are tiring. They will not let go. I don't want to let go either. I want the moment to last forever. After all, it has taken me millions of minutes of a lifetime to rediscover the joys of childhood. And then, it is merely a fleeting moment in the sun. With a twinge of sadness, I realize that it will happen less and less as the years go by.

I try to think back to a quote by Sir Richard Burton, something about childhood, travel, being reborn again. But my brain is not working as the sun begins to set and my children begin to melt down from exhaustion.

It is not until late at night, when my daughters are softly sleeping that I can locate the quote. By the light of the moon, I read and reread it, realizing what we so often seek in travel is that which has been left behind long ago as children. The miracle is that it can also be found again in parenthood.

"Of the gladdest moments in human life, methinks, is the departure upon a distant journey into unknown lands. Shaking off with one mighty effort the fetters of Habit, the Leaden weight of Routine, the cloak of many Cares and the slavery of Home, man feels once more happy. The blood flows with the fast circulation of childhood...Afresh downs the morn of life."

Posted by Court at 03:41 PM

Lustful Lungs

The hatred is overwhelming. In the past three hours I have moved from mere annoyance to despised miscreant. Like a leper at a society ball, several hundred strangers are now keeping track of every move I make.

Not that I blame them. I am every traveler's worst nightmare - the keeper of the screaming baby at 30,000 feet. At any moment, the mob mentality might take over and I will be thrown from the plane. I only hope that they offer me a parachute.

Across the aisle, my husband is busily entertaining our active two-year old, leaving me to deal with our little banshee. Flight attendants have offered milk, a smile and kind words. But each time they appear, my baby raises the octave-level again. The people sitting next to me vacated their seats long ago. Anger permeates every inch of the plane.

I take my wailing bundle and walk up the aisle for the hundredth time, garnering furtive looks from fellow passengers.

"Bloody screaming baby," someone mutters.

"Geez, that kid!" an old man grumbles.

Our trans-Atlantic flight is full of English expats returning home to London. A friend had warned me the British are none too fond of small children. Certainly after three hours of uninterrupted squalling, no one is feeling tender towards me. As the plague-bearer of ear-splitting misery, I am finding the communal dislike overpowering. In a bleak turn of events, I begin disliking everyone for their loathing of me.

I suspect I know what is bothering my child. A mere nine-months old, she often displays an aversion towards strange people and situations. She is fond of rhythm, security, familiarity. I knew moving overseas would be difficult, but I had no idea things could start out this badly.

I try to compartmentalize and take myself someplace else in my mind. Back in my seat, I imagine our final destination. Venice - a murky lagoon, lapping water the only sound beyond a silent sunrise - a shroud of fog gently burning off the water at first light. My enraged infant flops on my chest, blasts directly in my ear, and the silent sunrise vanishes with a wince.

Surely crying so hard for this long must be exhausting. But with no signs of abatement, I am beginning to want to cry myself. I know that despair will get me nowhere, but it seems there's no place else to go. I silently start praying to God for patience and strength.

"Oh, thar's that baybee," a tweed-coated man declares haughtily. He has appeared next to my seat out of nowhere. I bristle, sensing an onslaught of an indignant English attitude about to erupt. My husband, of course, is on a potty run with the two-year old. I am in no mood to deal with this fellow alone.

"So, this is little Miss Lustful Lungs," he continues, leaning over my seat, talking loudly above the din. "I have to let you know, that it's music to my ears. I'm so appreciative!" He grins at me like a fool.

Is this British dry humor mocking me? I try to think of a witty response, but any sense of snappy repartee left me hours ago.

"I'm so sorry," my reply is a gasping apology. "I don't know what to do. Absolutely nothing will console her."

"Do nothing, my deary." He waves a hand as if to perish the thought. "We just adopted a baybee of our own three months ago. I've been overseas on business for neerly six weeks. The sound of your littlie is oh, so wonderful to hear." He puts his hands in his pockets and looks at my child wistfully. "I feel so very close to little Harold - only nine 'owers away now."

Is this guy serious? I am unsure how to respond. Something quippy, like "Glad to be of service" or "Happy to help you feel better."

"I feel so sorry for the other passengers." I manage to blurt out.

He plops down next to me in the empty seat. "Just reelax and reealise that everyone here is with you, deary." His voice has become low and reassuring, a calming whisper in my ear. "Lord knows, we've all had baybees, we've all bin here before. Children are such a gift." He looks at my child with genuine awe. "Little Miss Lustful Lungs has brought joy to my boring old business trip."

With his reassurance, I feel my tense shoulders relax and my muscles unwind a notch. My heart rate slows as I take a deep breath. I realize this is the ultimate act of humanity - to approach an overwrought mother with an exasperating baby and actually thank her. I am beyond words.

Suddenly, there is no need for words as a gratifying silence descends. A lull in the storm breaks as my baby nuzzles her head under my chin. I nearly tremble with the possibility of an extended peace. With her ear on the warm heartbeat of my neck, my child falls into a blessed slumber.

The tweed-coated gentleman slowly moves from the seat and mouths the word "Goodbye." I reply with a silent "Thank you." Quietude is everywhere.

Author's Note
In any situation, an overwrought mother equals an upset baby. Traveling mothers should strive for calm at all times - easier said than done.

Posted by Court at 03:39 PM

Family Travel Links

Sometimes travelers think that becoming parents marks the end of their traveling days. Other families want to travel, but are discouraged by the difficulties of taking kids on the road. So we've pulled together links, articles and other resources - because having a family should enhance your travels, and vice versa.

If you would like to add to this section, contact us. Want to write an article? Have a look at BootsnAll's Writer's Guidelines, and send it in!

Articles & Advice | Info & Planning | Products for Parents | Single Parents

Posted by Court at 03:38 PM

Cyber Cafe Links

Cybercafes help you catch up on email and let you use the Web while travelling. Below are links to sites that we think offer good information on finding cybercafes worldwide. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, please contact BootsnAll with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

If you don't have a web-based email account yet (an essential for keeping in touch), click here to check out some options.

Info & Planning

Family Travel Forum

Their motto is "Have Kids, Still Travel!" And they want you to, too. Provides membership, articles and news, as well as some good message boards.

Fleming Family Global Adventure

This family went RTW with two kids, aged 3 and 7, and documented their experiences.

Flying with Kids
Everything you need to do on the ground and in the air, for a successful flight with the little ones.

Required Documents for Travel with Minors
There are new requirements for U.S. adults transporting a minor outside the country. This site tells you what you need, so everything goes smoothly.

See The World With Your Kids
Sheila Scarborough details city-stomping with kids. Includes a family-friendly focus on cities and attractions in North America, Europe and Asia.

Travel for Kids
Destination info, tailored for the family and what they can do where. Also check out their Fun Food for Kids City Lists.

Travel with Kids

Vacation ideas and tips, from budget family travel to resorts, with kids of all ages.

Traveling Internationally with Your Kids

Or just any long distance, really. If they can do it, so can you, and this site gives you every detail you could imagine.

Back to top

Single Parents

Parents Without Partners

A worldwide membership organization founded by single parents, to help others connect with one another and have better travels.

Single Parent Central

This resource provides information, facts and news, as well as online community features.

Single Parent Travel
For 20 years single mum Brenda Elwell has traveled the world with her kids. Now she helps others "share with their children the special joy of an exciting and successful travel adventure."

Cyber Captive
Awesome database of over 4700 verified internet access points in 144 countries.

Netcafeguide.com
Publisher of a paper guide as well, but here's their online listings.

Curious Cat Cybercafe Guide
Far from comprehensive, but easily searchable list.

Cybercafe Guide
Another list of cafes with a translation feature.

Cybercafes.com
Guide to cyber cafes worldwide. They have over 3500 in 141 countries.

easyEverything
They're all over Europe, and the new, 800-terminal location in New York City is the world's largest cybercafe. Dirt-cheap, and open 24/7.

RoadNews.com
All the info you need if you're travelling with a laptop or notebook computer.

iPass
They promise access anywhere and with 5000 access points in 150 countries, you should be able to get online.

Posted by Court at 03:35 PM

Currency Convertor

BootsnAll Currency Convertor

Posted by Court at 03:34 PM

Cruises

Cruise and Vacation Packages offers excellent deals on your next sun, sand and water getaway.

Posted by Court at 03:15 PM

Car Rentals

Cheap Car Rental Links has the best specials from Priceline, Orbitz, Expedia and more!

Posted by Court at 03:13 PM

Blogs

Below you will find links to sites that offer useful blogs where travellers can swap information and talk with one another. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, contact us with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

Australia Blog
Can't ya hear that thunder? Check up on life in Oz with tips and experiences from Down Under.

Travel Gear Blog
Rants and reviews on all things travel gear – in English, not gear-geek.

Written Road
The inside scoop to Jen Leo's travel publishing world, from publishing books to contacts in the industry.

BootBlog
What goes on behind the screen at BootsnAll. Check out office goings-on, meeting up with travelers, and all things travel and BootsnAll.

Eurail Blog
Some great resources for those looking to plan a Eurtailing adventure.

BootsnAll Travel Blogs
BootsnAll offers its members their own travelblog for free. See where everyone's travelling to, or sign up for your own travelblog.

Bali Blog
Travel Nutter Nick opened a new BootsnAll office in Indonesia, in Jan. 2003. Meet the locals and the travelers, and see the travel scoop on this awesome island.

London Blog
Rants from a Prisoner of Mother England, on everything from the London travel scene to the headlines to last night's match. Have a pint while reading.

BootBus.org: On the Road
The BootBus is chuggin' along, and we're pluggin' along the keyboard, keeping everyone up to date on the BootBoyz' latest road trip.

Posted by Court at 03:12 PM

Message & Discussion Boards

Below you will find links to sites that offer useful message boards where travellers can swap information. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, contact us with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

BootsnAll Message Boards
BootsnAll's message boards. Give your boots a rest and discuss travel.

LP Thorntree
The most active travel forums on the web. Be prepared to get flamed!

Eurotrip Message Boards
An excellent and extremely active message board focused on Europe.

Rough Guides Travel Talk
Rough Guides tries hard to have a good message forum. Not much excitement or activity here though.

Fodor's Forums
These forums are appropriate for people who like the Fodor's travel guides. An active and considerate group at these boards.

Posted by Court at 03:10 PM

Clubs, Communities & Networks Links

Below you will find links to sites that we think offer good information on finding other travellers to swap information or make contacts. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, contact BootsnAll with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

iAgora.com
Lots of forums and community features that can be translated into French or Spanish.

Epinions.com - Travel
Speak your mind about places you've seen or travel gear you've used.

The Globetrotters Club
Not the spoof basketball team, but a UK-based club that for 50 years has been connecting its indie traveller membership. They also produce a magazine, Globe.

the Argonauts
Travelogues, bulletin boards and book recommendations for "adventurers on a quest." All profits are donated to adventure and exploration.

TrekEarth.com
Share, discuss and critique travel-related photos, talk with photographers to improve your skills, and learn about the world through pictures.

HomeExchange.com
Swap houses or host someone and receive the same in return. A great way to live in a new area.

Virtual Tourist
Very intensive home page and it takes awhile to find everything they offer, but they reckon they have over 50,000 members.

Connecting: Solo Travel Network
Since 1990, this non-profit organization has helped bring together people who have an interest in going it alone.

Posted by Court at 03:06 PM

Vegetarian & Vegan Links

The world is more veg-friendly than you might think, but even where it is not, vegan and vegetarian travellers, and those just trying to be more eco-friendly in general, have come together to provide books, organizations and other resources to help you keep your homegrown beliefs while away from home. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, contact us with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

Guides & Travel Info | Region-Specific | General Veg | Tour Companies

Guides & Travel Info

Books & Guides
The black-and-white on being and travelling green.

Vegan Boots
Search for the ultimate vegan boot online, plus recipes, belts, wallets and other products.

Vegetarian Phrases in World Languages
It's as easy as choosing your native language, then the language of your destination.

Vegetarian Phrases in Other Languages
Talking the talk to help you get only the eats you want to eat.

VegEats.com
Find recipes, and also search or veg restaurants around the world. Also has lists of discussion boards, chat rooms, mailing lists and other links.

Happy Cow's Global Guide to Vegetarian Restaurants
Pretty self-explanatory. Health food stores also are listed.

Vegetarian & Health Food Restaurants
Primarily for the U.S., but also some listings for the rest of the world. Also lists links for health food and veg companies, as well as sites on animal rights and food safety.

Vegetarian Travel and Restaurants
Bulletin boards, veg guides for U.S. cities, restaurant surveys, books, articles, other guides, even a travel agent - VRG helps suss out your veg travel needs.

Vegan Traveller
Boards, guides and articles on this growing site include restaurant reviews and tips for eating vegan abroad.

Region-Specific

Travelling Vegan/Eco in India and Nepal
"You're vegan, you don't kill mosquitoes or wear chemicals on your body... you want to travel in India. Hopefully this info will help ease the pain."

How to be a British Vegetarian - in France!
Advice and tricks on French food and eating out in France, plus links to veg-related resources.

Latin American Vegetarian Resources
Restaurants and health food stores for many Latin American countries. A partial listing, but one that hopefully will grow.

General Veg

Pangea Vegan Products
From Maryland, USA, Pangea researches and sells strictly vegan products. Order online, from around the world.

Veganism for the Meat Eater
A vegan and a carnivore fall in love. Then they go out to dinner. How do you keep the peace? Create a web site. Not as much travel content, but tops for info on all things veg.

International Vegetarian Union (IVU)
The century-old IVU promotes vegetarianism worldwide, and its site is multi-lingual.

Vegetarian Resource Group (VRG)
One of the web's best resources for all things vegetarian. Also has a great and informative travel section.

TheVegetarianSite.com
News, recipes and other resources for vegetarians and vegans, as well as info and links on animal rights, online shopping and the environment.

Vegan.com
News, books, links and information for vegans and those interested in becoming vegans.

VegTV
Founded by people in the TV industry who pooled their knowledge to put together this all-video site that promotes the meatless lifestyle. Very cool.

Tour Companies

Bicycle Beano
UK-based company offering cyclings holidays in Wales and England that are suited for all, but targeted for vegetarians.

Green Earth Travel
Since 1991, Green Earth assists with accommodation, transport and activities for "those who desire to maintain their healthy and sane lifestyle while adventuring throughout the world."

VegiVentures
Arranges natural health holidays in Britain, Peru and Turkey, with lots of activities and healthy, veg cuisine.

Posted by Court at 02:56 PM

Links for Women Travellers

Below you will find links to sites that offer resources specifically for female travellers. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, contact us with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

Journey Woman
Lots of resources, stories and a network for travelling women.

Walking Women
Walking holidays for women in England's Lake District.

Wild Women Expeditions
Wilderness canoe trips and getaways in Canada, for groups.

Women Travelling Together
Escorted, all-inclusive tours in small groups for women of all ages.

Women's Travel Tips
Multi-activity adventure tours for small groups of women over 30.

Adventures in Good Company
Outdoor and wilderness trips for women. Most are in the USA.

Women's Travel Club
Organise 25-30 trips a year to locations all over the world.

Devi Outdoor
Specializes in clothing and equipment for women who are interested in climbing and mountaineering.

Posted by Court at 02:30 PM

GLBT Links

Below you will find links to sites that we think offer good resources specifically for gay and lesbian travellers. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, contact us with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

Books & Guides
Gay-friendly travel options and places, and gay-focused guides on different areas of the world.

GayGuide.net
Links to several hundred gay guides covering almost every country.

GayTravel.com
Describe themselves as a "resource that brings together all aspects of the gay travel experience."

Gay-Travel-Network.com
Adventure travel vacations, cruises, tours and luxury vacations.

Gay Places 2 Stay
Resource for gay and lesbian accommodations around the world.

Purple Roofs
A directory of gay and lesbian friendly accommodations, with over 830 listings.

Travelook
Find hosts, home exchanges, vacations, businesses, clubs, events, chat, etc.

eDrip Online travel agency eDrip (pride spelled backwards) offers tours and other services for gay clients.

Posted by Court at 02:14 PM

Books, Guides & Resources Links

The Web rocks, but the printing press isn't going out of style anytime soon. Travel writing of all kinds is more popular than ever, and there are books on every aspect of travel and every kind of traveller. Know a publisher or publication that should be included here? Please contact BootsnAll with the title and author.

Want the latest travel writing releases? Amazon.com has got you covered with their Travel Books section.

Book Reviews
BootsnAll members sound off on various travel books and guides. Use their opinions to help you decide what to read next.

Recommended Travel Guides
Known, used and trusted - some guidebook publishers worth leaving room in your pack for.

Phrase Books
If there's a phrase book for the language you need to learn, you'll most likely find it here.

FetchBook
One click compares book prices on the new and used from 62 book stores.

Look, Listen and Learn: Movies, Books and Music on the Road
Trying to find some interesting books to keep you occupied on that bus ride? Participate in this BootsnAll discussion forum.

Gay & Lesbian
Gay-friendly travel options and places, and gay-focused guides on different areas of the world.

Vegetarian & Vegan
The black-and-white on being and travelling green.

Posted by Court at 02:11 PM

Books & Guides for Gay/Lesbian Travellers

Use the below texts to help you travel better in your kind of style. If you know a book that should be listed here, please contact BootsnAll with the title and author.

Gay Phrase Book: French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Portuguese Japanese	Women's Travel in Your Pocket	Naked Places: A Guide for Gay Men to Nude Recreation and Travel, 3rd Ed.

Lesbian Travels: A Literary Companion	Bruce Chatwin	One Mykonos: Being Ancient, Being Islands, Being Giants, Being Gay
General Gay Travel A to Z: The World of Gay and Lesbian Travel Options at Your Fingertips Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner (15th Ed) Ferrari Guides Inn Places: Gay & Lesbian Accommodations Worldwide (13th Ed) Europe Frommer's Gay & Lesbian Europe Gay London: A Guide Fodor's Gay Guide to Amsterdam (1st Ed) North & Central America Damron Road Atlas: Gay City Maps for United States, Canada, Europe Fodor's Gay Guide to the USA Access Gay USA: Makes the World Your Neighborhood Betty and Pansy's Severe Queer Review San Franciso: An Irreverent, Opinionated Guide to the Bars, Clubs, Restaurants, Cruising Areas... Ferrari Guide's Gay Mexico Man's Guide to Mexico and Central America

Posted by Court at 02:09 PM

Books & Guides for Vegetarian/Vegan Travellers

Use the below texts to help you travel better in your kind of style. If you know a book that should be listed here, please contact BootsnAll with the title and author.

The Artichoke Trail: A Guide to Vegetarian Restaurants, Organic Food Stores & Farmers' Markets in the US	The Vegetarian Traveler: Where to Stay If You're Vegetarian, Vegan, Environmentally Sensitive	Vegetarian Journals: Guide to Natural Foods Restaurants in the U.S. & Canada

Vegetarian Europe	The Vegetarian Traveler	Europe on 10 Salads a Day
Also See: Green Cuisine: A Guide to Vegetarian Dining Around Seattle and Puget Sound Vegetarian Walt Disney World and Greater Orlando The Vegan Travel Guide - UK and Southern Ireland Scotland the Green: The Alternative Guide to Vegetarian & Vegan Hideways in Scotland Vegetarian Visitor 2001: Where to Stay and Eat in Britain

Posted by Court at 02:06 PM

Phrase Books

Whether you really want to get in with the locals, or just want to be able to find the loo when you need it most, you need to learn a little of the language. Use the links below to hook you up with the right phrase and language books you need. If you know a book that should be listed here, please email the title and author to BootsnAll.

Rather learn your foreign language online?
Click here for our Online Language Learning Center »

The following links search Amazon.com:

Africa

Swahili

Zulu
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Southeast Asia

Burmese

Lao

Thai

Vietnamese
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Australasia & Pacific Islands

Aboriginal Languages

Aboriginal Sign Language

English

Samoan
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Eastern Europe

Gypsy

Ukrainian
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Middle East

Asia Mainland

Uzbek

Wu
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Asia Subcontinent

Nepali

Urdu
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Central & South America

Amazonian Languages

Latin American Spanish

Mayan

Portugese

Spanish (Español)
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Western Europe

Basque

French

Gaelic (Irish & Scots)

Welsh (Cymraeg)
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North America

French

Kweyol (St. Lucian Creole)

Lakota

Mayan

Misantla Totonac

Native American Languages

Ojibwe

Spanish
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Posted by Court at 01:59 PM

Recommended Travel Guides & Guidebooks

No matter what you learn on-line, it's still a good idea to reserve some space in your pack for a guidebook. Below are some of the books we recommend, use and have heard kudos about. If there's a travel publisher or guidebook series that you think should be included here, email the publisher/series and URL to toolkit@BootsnAll.com.

Lonely Planet
Probably the most popular guides to ever be packed in a backpack.

Rough Guides
One of the more popular alternatives to LP.

Let's Go
Student-written guides that are often found in the hands of college students abroad.

Rick Steves
A popular author who deals solely with travelling in Europe.

Hunter Guides
Guides to every area of the world and several specialty guides.

Frommers
Seemed to be aimed at the American market aged over 30.

Travelers' Tales
Heaps of great travel books, some with sample chapters online so you can try before you buy.

Fodor's
Extensive guides that are popular with an older generation.

Moon Travel Handbooks
Highly rated guides, but they don't cover Europe yet.

Hello Europe
Few guides really touch on budget hotels, but Margo Classé covers budget Europe hotels so closely she can tell you which rooms have bathtubs.

Footprint Handbooks
Good-looking guides that cover over 100 destinations.

Other Travel Guides:
Here is Amazon's selection of some other worthwhile or must-have guides.

Posted by Court at 01:47 PM

Air Travel Links

Below you will find links to sites and resources on air travel. If you've found a site that you think should be included here, contact us with the URL and a short description of why it's helpful.

Fare Searchers
BootsnAll TripPlanner
Flexible, low-priced RTW and multi-continental plane tickets. Is it BootsnAll's? Yep. Would we use it? Bet your pack we would.

BootsnAll FareBeater
Just need regular ol' plane tickets, not an RTW trip? BootsnAll's FareBeater sorts you out for low-cost domestic and international flights.

Airfare Comparison Tool
Search multiple airline and booking sites at once!

CheapTicketLinks.com
Collection of major airlines and booking sites – handy since it keeps all these resources in one neat, tidy place.

Hotwire
Budget travellers are giving this new company lots of attention. Hotwire partners with top airlines to bring you great travel deals, including up to 40% off airfares.

Priceline.com
You name the price, they find it, you pay, you fly, end of story. Priceline lets you search for fares on the basis of what you are willing to pay.

Airtech
"If you can beat these prices, start your own damn airline." A nice ballsy statement, from this standby-flight pass specialist.

Luxury Travel Source
Offers 40-70% off business and first class airline tickets for destinations worldwide.

Orbitz
Über-low fare searcher Orbitz was created out of a partnership between five major airlines. It's always worth a gander when on the cheap.

Qixo
Pronounced "kick-so", be sure to use these guys to help further compare fares and find the best deal.

SideStep
Downloads to run in your broswer. However, at present Sidestep only works with Internet Explorer, and only for flights to or from the U.S.

Travelocity
The granddaddy of airline search sites, Travelocity offers flights, car rental and hotel bookings.

Other Resources
Round-the-World Travel Guide
Advice and info, how to plan, and even profiles from people who have and who are about to go around the world.

On Open Tickets
Thinking of buying open tickets? Think again - it's for your own good, says Edward Hasbrouck.

Advice for Aussies Flying RTW
Tips for Australians planning a round-the-world trip and how they can get good airfares.

Airport/City Codes List
Course, it helps to know where you're f