Updated · On BootsnAll since 2006 · History
Overview and Things to Consider
Iraq is where civilization began. Mesopotamia, along the Tigris and Euphrates, saw humanity's first cities, written language and complex governments. At Babylon, Ur and Nineveh you're standing at the actual roots of human history. But in March 2026, Iraq is completely inaccessible. US military bases here are being targeted directly by Iranian missile and drone strikes as part of an ongoing regional war. There is no safe way to travel here right now.
Come back when conditions change. When you can, you're visiting one of Earth's most historically significant regions.
Getting There and Around
Baghdad International Airport (BGW) and Erbil International Airport (EBL) are technically operational, but international flight schedules are chaotic and many carriers have suspended service. Most visitors now apply online for Iraq's e-visa, which is valid for 30 days and covers the Kurdistan Region too. Visa on arrival was suspended for most nationalities in March 2025. Journalists and NGO workers still have to go through an Iraqi embassy.
Taxis, minibuses and ride-hailing apps exist in Baghdad and Erbil, but driving is chaotic and roads are in poor condition. The bigger problem right now is security, which makes moving between regions dangerous or impossible. Rental cars exist but aren't advisable even without active military operations.
The simple answer during active conflict: don't come.
What's Changed Since 2016
Ten years ago, Iraq was tentatively reopening for tourism, especially in Kurdistan. Then things got worse. By 2024-2025 regional tensions had escalated, and on February 28, 2026, the US and Israel launched coordinated military operations against Iran. Iran has retaliated with direct missile and drone strikes on Iraqi territory where US forces are stationed. The result is extreme volatility: airspace restrictions, military activity and a serious risk of getting caught in a cross-regional conflict. Tourism has stopped entirely. Archaeological access is nil.
Ideas to Consider for Your Visit
When Iraq reopens to travelers: the Iraqi Museum in Baghdad is world-class for Mesopotamian artifacts. Babylon, 90 km south of Baghdad, shows the scale of ancient empires. Ur in the south is the traditional home of Abraham and one of humanity's oldest cities. Erbil's citadel in Kurdistan is one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities. The Yazidi temples at Lalish in the mountains are spiritually and culturally significant. The Marshes of southern Iraq, home to the Ma'dan people, preserve an ancient way of life tied to waterways. When safety allows, the archaeological richness here is unmatched.
Realities to Be Aware Of
Cost: Historically $30-50/day for basic travel, $100-150+ for mid-range. Food was very cheap, with full meals for $3-5.
Language: Arabic is primary. Kurdish in the north. English is limited. Learning basic phrases is essential.
Safety: This dominates everything. Multiple governments issue 'do not travel' warnings. Checkpoints are common. Photography is restricted. Sectarian tensions exist. Kidnapping has occurred.
Visas: Difficult to obtain. Invitation letters required. Processing takes months. Some nationalities blocked entirely.
Health: Water quality is questionable - drink bottled or boiled. Medical facilities inconsistent. Vaccinate against hepatitis A, typhoid, polio.
If Iraq Is Part of a Longer Trip
Iraq borders Syria, Turkey, Iran, Saudi Arabia, Jordan, and Kuwait - none of them simple crossings. Even before the current crisis, Iraq was rarely combined with other Middle East travel. The logistics and security made it standalone. If you're planning a Middle East trip now, skip Iraq. Return when the situation stabilizes.
Yearly Things to Consider
Iraq's climate is extreme. Summer temperatures hit 48-52°C (118-126°F) June through September - dangerous heat. Best months are October through April, with temperatures of 15-25°C (59-77°F). Ramadan affects business hours and restaurant availability. Given current military operations, these are theoretical considerations.
Climate reference (for when travel resumes):
Iraq Climate
| Month | Temp | Season | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| January | 0.5 in | Low | 10-16°C (50-61°F) |
| February | 0.5 in | Low | 12-18°C (54-64°F) |
| March | 0.3 in | Shoulder | 16-24°C (61-75°F) |
| April | 0.2 in | Shoulder | 21-31°C (70-88°F) |
| May | 0.1 in | Shoulder | 27-38°C (81-100°F) |
| June | 0.0 in | High | 33-45°C (91-113°F) |
| July | 0.0 in | High | 35-50°C (95-122°F) |
| August | 0.0 in | High | 34-49°C (93-120°F) |
| September | 0.0 in | High | 30-43°C (86-109°F) |
| October | 0.1 in | Shoulder | 23-35°C (73-95°F) |
| November | 0.3 in | Shoulder | 16-27°C (61-81°F) |
| December | 0.5 in | Low | 11-18°C (52-64°F) |
Ideas for Itineraries
3 Days in Iraq
Base yourself in Erbil in Kurdistan, the most tourism-ready region. Day 1: explore the citadel (one of the world's oldest inhabited cities), walk the bazaar, eat kebabs at a local stand. Day 2: day trip to Lalish, the Yazidi spiritual center in the mountains. Day 3: a traditional hammam and more of the old city. Three days barely scratches the surface.
5 Days in Iraq
Two days in Erbil and Kurdistan (citadel, bazaar, Lalish). Then fly to Baghdad. Days 3-4: the Iraqi Museum, Abbasid Palace, walk through the old city carefully. Day 5: day trip to Babylon, 90 km south - the actual ruins of one of history's greatest cities.
1 Week in Iraq
Four days in Erbil and Kurdistan - citadel, Lalish, surrounding mountains, the Dohuk region to the north. Three days between Baghdad and Babylon. You'd have time to sit in cafes, negotiate souqs, actually meet people. Still not enough to understand the south or the Marshes.
2 Weeks or More in Iraq
A week in Kurdistan: Erbil, Sulaymaniyah (more of a 'real' city, with excellent museums) and mountain day trips. A week between Baghdad, Babylon, Najaf (Shia Islam's holiest city), Karbala and possibly the southern Marshes. Two weeks is when you start to understand the country.
From the BootsnAll archive
3 stories and articles about Iraq, 2007
- Dirty Underwear, Stinging Whores, Would-be Suicide Bombers, and Eddie Munster - Iraqi Kurdistan
Article · Andrew Cote
- A Hostage Returns to Iraq - on Holiday
Article · Barry
- An Education on Life and Culture in Kurdistan, Iraq - Middle East
Article · 2007 · Brian Yamamura
Cities in Iraq
Iraq Travel Questions
It depends heavily on the region. Kurdistan is more stable; Baghdad and other areas face security problems. Many governments advise against travel, and conditions can change fast, so check current advisories carefully.
Some nationalities need permission or face restrictions, and security clearances may be required. Check with your government's foreign affairs office and the Iraqi embassy.
October through April has pleasant temperatures; summer is extremely hot. Security fluctuates, so check current conditions whatever the season.
Mesopotamian artifacts at the Iraqi Museum, the ancient city of Babylon, and the citadel and markets in Erbil. Baghdad itself is historically significant. Many archaeological sites have little tourist infrastructure.
Bread, rice, grilled meats and dates, with mezze platters common. The cooking draws on Middle Eastern and Mediterranean influences, and traditional hospitality means generous meals.
Arabic is the primary language. Kurdish is spoken in Kurdistan. English is limited outside tourism sectors. Learning basic Arabic phrases is helpful.
One of the ancient world's most important cities and the capital of several empires. The ruins hold some of the key moments in human civilization.
Update history (14)▸
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- The visa description is out of date. Iraq launched an e-visa in April 2024 and made it mandatory in March 2025. Visitors apply online without visiting an embassy or needing a ministry invitation and months of processing. (source)
· Rewrite
Updated for modern frameworks, with content updates and changes
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Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
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Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
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Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
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Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
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Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees: all content and prices updated March 2014
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Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
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Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
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Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
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Travel guide on BootsnAll, at a new address
Archived copy of /Middle-East-Iraq· Archive
Travel guide on BootsnAll
Archived copy of /middle-east/Iraq· Contributors
Chris Heidrich, BootsnAll co-founder, has contributed to this guide since 1999, including dispatches from BootsnAll and AirTreks travelers


