Cool waves gently slapped against our backs as we moved out further from the white sandy beach. All around us hungry pelicans dive-bombed headfirst into the sea - hoping to grasp an errant fish for lunch.
"If this isn't heaven, it's darned close," I sigh as I sink to my shoulders in the cool green seawaters. In the heat of the summer with temperatures hovering in the 100's, there is no better place to be than bobbing gently in the Sea of Cortez. With a cold Corona beer in one hand.
San Felipe. A fishing village perched on the edge of history, time, and change.
If the Mexican Baja Peninsula is a study in contrasts, then San Felipe is certainly a prime example of just that.
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Small catamarans for rent
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Desert dunes, sandy swirls of nothing, and craggy desert mountains seem to follow you right to the edge of this little fishing village of 20,000 souls. After several hours (2¼ to be exact) of driving south through the arid desert from the border town of Mexicali, the bumpy road dumps you smack-dab onto San Felipe's white sandy beaches. And, those green colored waves just beg you to enter and enjoy.
About The Village
Hey, they just got electricity in 1964. So, please don't expect Four Seasons.
San Felipe is a few steps up from most fishing villages, but is still the destination of choice by those who don't want or need much. ...other than warm seas, great fishing, sandy beaches, lots of cold Mexican beer and scrumptious seafood.
"Downtown" butts right up on the seashore. About six blocks of sidewalk along the little sea wall and sand are crammed with terrific seafood vendors and shopkeepers selling water toys and t-shirts. Oh yes, there's also a good sized cigar shop tucked in there between the raucous Rockadille bar and Rice & Beans Restaurant.
Where to Stay
Take your pick. Do you require A/C and indoor plumbing? Or, is camping near or on the beach more to your liking? San Felipe offers both. Decide if you're a happy camper or must have comfort and convenience. Then, go for it!
Here are our picks:
Motel El Cortez
Clean, A/C, and on the beach a little south of the Malecon and downtown. Prices range from $60 to $100. depending on the season and holiday schedule. Want a little suite - ask for 135 (or is it 134? We were drinking a little so have some memory problems here...) Anyway, it's ground floor, on the beach with an outside patio.
Don't bother asking for their web special; they'll never respond as you repeat over and over again that you're supposed to get a discount because you found their site on the web. E-mail: cortezho@telnor.net or phone from the U.S. 1-888-313-7409.
Costa Azul Motel/Hotel
You can't miss this big blue and white motel/hotel structure right on the beach as you get to town. Moderate to deluxe accommodations. Great location - we're trying them out next time! Mexico telephone number is 657.71548.
Camping
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Camping on the beach - two storey palapas
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Great camping is right on the edge of the beach. Plan now on not showering and just pigging out for a weekend at Ruben's R.V. Trailer Camp "De Kiki." Owner Alvaro Diaz tells us that if you arrive on a Friday morning, you have a good chance of getting a beachfront campsite for the weekend. Cost is $15 a night in the summer and $12 a night in the winter. RV hookups are available at no extra cost.
The De Kiki is a quick walk from town via the beach and offers showers/toilets for the guests. Call Senor Diaz at 011-52 (657) 7-20-21 for more information.
Eating Out
Whatever you do, eat downtown on the Malecon. Fish tacos are the specialty. You can have shark, octopus; if it's from the ocean, they got it!
If you must - cheeseburgers and American fare are on the menu at many San Felipe restaurants.
Try the Playa Del Sol Restaurant or the Red Lobster Inn (no relation to the US ones).
On the Malecon we enjoyed the sea view and people-gazing at Rice & Beans, but the food lacked spice and love. Have a beer there, but skip the grub.
Activities
Fish with the guys - you can pick up a fishing guide along the Malecon in the morning.
Sports betting at the Calienti between downtown and Motel El Cortez.
Relax. Watch the extreme tides of the Sea of Cortez. Watch the silly pelicans dive for fish.
Off-road ATV - you can rent 4-wheelers for about $20 an hour (probably for a lot less if you chat with the rental guys for a little before you strike a deal).
Be a water-baby. Swim, float and take rides with the guys towing plastic floaters back and forth on the beach.
Rent a horse and ride the beach.
Rockodille - this is THE place for nightlife in San Felipe.
Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our North America Insiders page.
