It's possible to receive your permit through the mail. Make sure to include a self-addressed stamped envelope and only mail it to the Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge (address above).

Renting A 4WD Vehicle
Sedona Jeep Rentals
Starting at $59.95
(520)282-2227
1-800-879-JEEP
Open 7 days a week
Located at the Sedona Airport Main Terminal

Arizona Jeep Rentals
(520)674-8469
Located in the lobby of the Pointe Hilton at Squaw Peak

Just in Case...
...you happen to go register at the Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge office and it's closed for the day...drive south and spend the night in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument.

The visitor's centre has a washroom and there's a nearby camping area. The Park itself, although touristy, is worth a visit. Some spectacular desert vistas!

The Author: Peter Klose
Any time I travel I like to get a better understanding of the people and culture. Exploring off the beaten path I like to document and research cemeteries and burial sites. Each epitaph is a page of history in the development of a society and nation.

Past Endeavours

Other hobbies include rock climbing, spelunking, and technical diving...much of which has been put on hold since being domesticated (married with kids!).

And one final warning: "Due to the proximity of the border, illegal alien and drug smuggling activities may occur."

The bullet holes in the sign are a great reminder that Mother Nature isn't the only threat to life and limb.

Special Regulations
Only four-wheel-drive vehicles are permitted although we rarely encountered anything that required off-road capabilities. I remember only once engaging the four-wheel-drive for some deep, loose sand.

The San Cristobal Wash and Las Playas are two areas of the trail which may be subject to temporary closing due to rain. It is strictly forbidden to circumvent any impassable areas because of flooding, mud, or lawful closure as vehicles are restricted to designated routes.

For camping/parking purposes vehicles may stray to a maximum of 50 feet from authorized routes. Camping is limited to 14 days within a 28-day period. Only charcoal fires and propane stoves are permitted in order to protect scarce desert wood. Hiking is permitted.

The Trek
The trip through this section of the El Camino Del Diablo (between Ajo and Tacna/Wellton) is about 125 miles through the continent's largest expanse of virgin Sonoran Desert.

One of the first stops is about 17 miles in at Bates Well, an abandoned homestead that marks tribute to the last of the ranching in the area. Bates apparently had more problems with the Park Services and authorities than with with harsh environment. Something to do with cattle not respecting borders and desert conservation programs.

The home is still there with some sheds and old farming debris scattered around. The old windmill still turns solemnly in the breeze, once the source of life-giving water.

Papago Well is the first of three designated campsites recommended by the Park Service for camping, about 40 miles from Ajo. There are NO sources of safe drinking water - make sure to have your own!

The scenery changes soon after, from the Teddy Bear Chollas, Organ Pipe Cactus, and Ocotillo to an almost lunar landscape - the rocky Pinacate lava flow.

Keep an eye out for a cairn on the south side that marks the death of an early traveller, Nameer. This stretch runs closely parallel to the border of Mexico. It's here we had the chance to see a group of Mexicans in the distance, burdened by jugs of water, cautiously making their way across the desert. We're later told by border patrol (busy place!) that they illegally cross the border to find work in the U.S. and then return to Mexico months later. Many, however, die of exposure in the desert and mountains before reaching the I-8 highway.

The Pinta Sands, 60 miles from Ajo, begins to challenge the off-road vehicle with deep loose sand. We spent the night here and made an attempt to park the Jeep in an inconspicuous place to avoid any late night visitors - we were told the Mexicans are generally harmless and friendly but to avoid them nonetheless.

The junction at Tule Well

Tule Well, just a couple miles further, is the suggested camping area. Here there is a small one room building that was built by the military engineers in 1989. Inside is a small fireplace, jugs of water, small foam mattress, and other little knick-knacks that have been left by travellers. Be sure to fill out the guest book! Though available for overnight use there's so much more to gain by sleeping beneath the beauty of the Desert sky.

Tule Well is also a junction - one road leads West to Wellton and the other North to Tacna. We decided to drive north passing the third designated camping area, Christmas Pass. The desert seems to stretch endlessly and the trek becomes slightly monotonous.

About 16 miles from Tule Well, the NW boundary of the park is reached and you enter into the Barry M. Goldwater Air Force Range. From here the desert isolation becomes interrupted by either Border Patrol or the U.S. military. Having never witnessed such intensive military training it was fascinating to see tanks and Hummers with missile launchers drive by. We were fortunate enough not to become part of a live-fire exercise!

Summary
The El Camino Del Diablo was not nearly as tough and adventurous as we anticipated. Obviously the greatest risk is not being fully prepared. Mostly the trail's intrigue is in its history. It is, however, a worthwhile trip for casual desert travelling or hiking excursions into the mountains. And if you're lucky enough you'll be able to catch a glimpse of the endangered Sonoran pronghorn!

Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our North America Insiders page.