BootsnAll Travel Network

Accommodation
There are a large variety of accommodations available in the Outer Cape area, with prices and styles ranging greatly. My recommendations are completely biased, and taken only as a guide!

  • The Whalewalk Inn
    Eastham
    One of the classiest spots in this area! Yes - I am biased! Moderate to expensive. You pay for what you get!

  • Pennyhouse Inn
    North Eastham
    Location's right on Hwy 6 which may not appeal to everyone, but moderate pricing and a promise to be looked after.

  • Truro Vineyards
    Truro
    Still unsure as to whether this property will continue to offer accommodations, but have had great reviews from previous guests of theirs.

  • Captain's House
    Provincetown
    This is my surprise budget pick! Owned by two guys who have one of the largest Marilyn Monroe memorabilia collections I have ever seen, this very clean, perfectly situated (in the heart of Provincetown) very inexpensive B&B would be my pick for Provincetown.

    For more accommodation options, click here. Good Luck!!


  • Cape Cod, Massachusetts - November 1999
    By Chris Williams

    Hello from Cape Cod!!

    This is the first of a series of monthly updates on the eastern arm of Massachusetts, otherwise known as Cape Cod. Yes, a lot of you are familiar with where it is, how busy it is, and how diverse it can be, and I intend to confirm and deny all of the above.

    My focus will actually be on the Outer Cape, a relatively new term to the Cape, which encompasses the area from Eastham, north to Provincetown. This 30 mile peninsula is truly the real Cape Cod, without the motel-drunk beaches, without the endless miles of moronic miniature golf courses, and without the "have it any way" fast food restaurants that have come to infest most other beach communities, not just here on Cape Cod, but throughout the world.

    The predominate bonus of this area is that it is at its most beautiful when it's not prime tourist season (June through August), and the beaches seem like they are only for you!

    You should know from the start, that my wife and I are innkeepers in this area, and as such tend to have a different slant on things, as we see everything from not just our "is summer over yet" hazed eyes, but also from the hundreds of volunteers (guests!) who frequent not only the beaches, but also the shops, restaurants, and other experiences that we ourselves adore. That being the case, the opinions expressed here tend to be a group vote, as I feel they are representational of all of us here.

    The Lay of the Land
    As I said earlier, the Outer Cape is actually the forearm to the fist section of the Cape Cod area. For those of you who are not familiar with this expression, if you look at Cape Cod on a map, it actually looks like a flexed arm with the upper arm area being closest to the mainland, and the forearm being the area generally encompassing the area of the Outer Cape, ending at the fist which would be considered the Provincetown area.

    In terms of distance, it is roughly 30-35 miles in length, with a width of between 1-5 miles. The reason this area has managed to preserve so much of its natural charm, is thanks to President Kennedy (known as God in this area!!), who in 1961 declared most of this area as the Cape Cod National Seashore. What this in fact means, is that all of this area is restricted to the ugly development that has infested the rest of Cape Cod, Florida and many of the Carolina beaches!!

    Although some houses can be found in this area, these are generally properties that had been built prior to the National Seashore being developed, and as such "grandfathered" into being allowed to remain as it is. This has allowed this area to maintain a very uncharacteristic "charm" to it. Being able to walk along the endless beaches, and experiencing only dunes, sand and 'brisk' water, is truly one of the amazing experiences of this area.

    The Outer Cape is comprised of predominantly 4 towns: Eastham (at the entryway to the Cape Cod National Seashore), Wellfleet (old harbor, numerous galleries and a good selection of restaurants), Truro (small town, winery - no kidding!, a great links golf course) and Provincetown (diverse mix of artisans, Portuguese fishing community, and large gay population, excellent galleries, restaurants and generally the coolest town around!!).

    Keeping Busy
    The title to this section can be very misleading, as everyone's definition of "keeping busy" can be interpreted many different ways. For our definition, I will just let you know what's available in general, with specifics to be covered in future "episodes".

    Hiking
    Let's be honest, if your idea of a hike is doing laps at the local supermall, then what you will find on the Outer Cape may actually be hiking. But if you are used to mountains, hills or varying grades of elevation, then this is what I like to consider as a great spot for a nice walk.

    Now before every loyal Cape Codder and frequent visitor to this area gets into an uproar about my interpretation of this land, you can actually build up a sweat with endless miles of beach walking (great for your legs!), or drifting back and forth up Fire Roads, but in general, its just a great place to walk.

    Hikes on the Outer Cape tend to vary from 1-4 miles with well marked and generally well graded surfaces. The only "extensive" hike in this area would be Great Island in Wellfleet which can be about 8 miles round trip, and is a wonderfully diverse cross-section of all that is the Outer Cape.

    Biking
    The Outer Cape is blessed with great biking! With Eastham being just north of the center point of the 25 mile long rail trail (well paved with very little gradient change), and the shoulders of most roads and highways being sufficiently wide enough to not incur the wrath of most of the drivers, there are endless possibilities for anyone who wishes to get out and stretch their legs.

    Canoeing and Kayaking
    Between the numerous ponds, inlets and ocean this is a little bit of paradise for boaters of all sorts. There are many rental companies in the area that are happy to provide the latest in technology for the adventurous, as well as guided tours run through numerous agencies.

    Fishing
    Whether it's deep sea fishing that appeals to you, or pond fishing or even just shellfishing for local clams and mussels, there are countless individuals and companies that can provide for any style of fishing you desire.

    Whalewatching
    Cape Cod is considered one of the best areas for whalewatching on the eastern seaboard of the United States. With the Stellwagen Bank being located just north of Provincetown, the beauty of whalewatching from here means very little time on the boat, going back and forth to the feeding grounds, but actually more time spent with the whales themselves.

    I cannot recommend this experience enough to anyone coming to Cape Cod! There are numerous companies that go from Provincetown, but my personal favorite is "Dolphin Fleet" which has a naturalist on board every trip, and for a "three hour tour" even Gilligan couldn't complain about the $18. charge.

    Shopping
    Although I hate to delve into this area, suffice it to say that there are numerous galleries, shops and neat oddity stores available to appeal to just about everyone's taste and budget levels. Enough said!!!

    Filling the Gap
    Cape Cod in general is famous for its seafood. Not that any of this is earth shattering news, but in this area of the Outer Cape, menu diversity can vary greatly from just the fried foods that are associated with this area.

    A visitor to this area would be remiss without trying Wellfleet oysters, quahogs (clams!), and our numerous chowders. Outside of the seafood there are a wide variety of foods available, and below I will let you in on a few of our favorites (mine and our guests!) with a price range, atmosphere and style of food as well as a few special dishes!!

    Eastham - Generally not known as a food Mecca, there are a few selections available.

  • Eastham Lobster Pool - Not surprisingly, famous for their lobster/seafood. Moderate prices and their "lobster in the rough" atmosphere.

    Wellfleet - Good cross-section of food styles and varieties.

  • Finely JP's - House special is cataplana (Cape Cod Jambalaya!), moderate prices, and more of a family atmosphere.
  • Painters' - Locals discovered this well before "Gourmet". House special is pan-seared tuna with sesame and mustard seeds, moderate to high price, funky setting, good wine list!!
  • Lighthouse - I can only confess to having breakfast here but it was outstanding! Inexpensive with family feel to the restaurant.
  • Bookstore - This is the place to get your Wellfleet Oysters!!!! Moderate pricing with family style setting.

    Truro - Small town with very few restaurants.

  • The Whitman House - Typical American menu with moderate prices and warm setting.

    Provincetown - Lots of selections here, but to be brutally honest, high prices and generally overrated food...with the following exceptions.

  • Lobster Pot - Although this restaurant falls into my above comments perfectly, the mussels can be exceptional here, and the views from the bar area are worth visiting all by itself. Moderate pricing with fun/funky setting.
  • Mojo's - Fried, fried and more fried, but huge portions, inexpensive pricing and take-out only setting makes this a must stop!

    My only exceptions to the above list would be that the town of Orleans (which is located just outside of God's Country), has a large selection of restaurants which anyone visiting the area should make a point of visiting, such as:

  • The Beacon Room - probably my favorite restaurant in the area, unbelievable appetizer of calamari with jalapenos and linguica (local Portuguese) sausage. Yummmm! Moderate pricing and jazzy setting.
  • Captain Linnell House - Standard fine dining menu line-up, with moderate to expensive pricing and easily the most romantic atmosphere in the area.
  • Binnacle - Some of the best Pizza I've ever tried (having tried pizza from Chicago to who knows where I consider myself a quasi-connisseur), inexpensive and fun/funky atmosphere!
  • Joe's Bar & Grill - Good cross-section of menu, moderate pricing with pub style atmosphere. Note: Don't get sucked into dining next door at the Barley Neck Inn! Service sucks!!
  • Academy Ocean Grill - Just opened in June of '99. Some of the best seafood (non-fried) anywhere in this area of the Cape. Salmon is fabulous, moderate pricing, sterilized dining!

    Questions?
    If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our North America Insiders page.


  • Home | Email BootsnAll | Become a Member | Top of page
    Travel Guides, Stories, Information, and Newsletters Africa Travel | Asia Travel | Australia Travel | Europe Travel | Middle East Travel | New Zealand Travel | North America Travel | Central America Travel | South America Travel | Caribbean Travel | Pacific Islands Travel | Insiders | Travel Blogs | Travel Newsletters
    Book Tickets, Hostels, Hotels and more anywhere in the world Youth Hostels | Europe Hostels | New York Hostels | Paris Hostels | London Hostels | Amsterdam Hostels Cheap Hotels | Cheap Hotels in Amsterdam | Hotels in Paris | Hotels in New York | Cheap Hotels in San Francisco | Cheap Hotels in Las Vegas | Cheap Hotels in Sydney
    Travel Insurance | Learn Foreign Languages | Cruise and Vacation Packages
    Travel Cell Phones, SIM cards & calling cards Prepaid SIM Cards | Phone Cards | International Cell Phones
    Around the World Travel Around the World Tickets | Around the World Travel | Cheap International Plane Tickets | Around the World Travel Tips | Cheap Tickets
    Airport Parking Philadelphia Airport Parking | Newark Airport Parking | Oakland Airport Parking | San Diego Airport Parking | Phoenix Airport Parking | SEATAC Airport Parking | Atlanta Airport Parking
    BootsnAll World Adventure Travel Tanzania Safari | Viet Nam Tours | Thailand Tour | China Tours | New Zealand Adventure | Australia Tours
    Eurail Eurail Passes | Britrail Passes | Eurail Travel | Eurail Tips
    BootsnAll Travel Community websites, blogs and About the Company BootBlog | Bali Travel | Australia Travel | BootsnAll Travel Blogs | Travel Writer's Resource | Travel Gear Blog | Eurail Blog | London Blog | Hong Kong Blog | World Travel Watch
    BootsnAll in Other Languages Chercher des Auberges De Jeunesse | Ricercare gli Ostelli di Gioventù | Busque para Albergues Juveniles de Juventud | Suchen Sie Jugendherbergen