The Bruce Trail
Survival is the great Canadian theme, says author Margaret Atwood. We Canadians emphasize our ruggedness by perpetuating the myth of our harsh landscape and unforgiving weather.
Most Canadians now live in an urban landscape in close proximity
to the United States and not in proximity to true wilderness (though
the U.S. could be considered a cultural "wilderness"). The only
wildlife I regularly come into contact with are rabid raccoons
feasting on our garbage and parks overloaded with Canada Goose
shit.
Nonetheless, these myths are in our bones. So when we can, we
like to return to nature. Whether this is a cottage in the Muskokas,
a canoe trip in Kilarney Provincial Park, or even a beer-fest
weekend at the local conservation area, Ontarians are inseparable
from the outdoors from Spring to Fall. (After which we go into
serious hibernation.)
My favourite way to get in touch with my "Canadianness" is by
hiking the Bruce Trail. The
Bruce Trail, an 800 km linear hiking trail, follows the Niagara Escarpment (basically a very long cliff). The Escarpment itself starts near Rochester, New York, dissects southern Ontario, then up the Bruce Peninsula, goes underwater into Lake Huron, emerging as Manitoulin Island, submerging and emerging again until petering out in Wisconsin.
The Bruce Trail runs on private and public land and embraces
over 100 parks. There are also 300 km. of side trails.
Some of the trees on the escarpment date over 1000 years. This
is remarkable since the average age of forests in Ontario is sixty
years, due to repeated clearcutting. This makes these trees the
oldest in Northeastern North America.
Our evil right-wing provincial leader, Mike
Harris, okayed logging it, as he did previously with Algonquin
Provincial Park. Fortunately, just before the axes were set to
swing, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural
Organization (UNESCO) designated the area a "Biosphere"
and logging was halted. It is the unique combination of cultural
and biological assets that merits this designation.
One guidebook refers to the trail as packed with "white-tailed
deer, coyotes, black bear, foxes, turkey vultures, Massasauga
rattlesnake, and many other species of bird and animals". The
animals you are most apt to see are: chipmunks, raccoons, mosquitoes,
blackflies, seagulls, and pet dogs. I did, however, see a coyote
at Bruce National Park. I thought it was a dingo. Then I became
frightened for my baby - until I realized that I neither had a
baby, nor was I in Australia. I was therefore able to continue
on my way unmolested.
This trail is no footpath. It is frequently rocky, arduous, and
may entail minor scaling. Fires and overnight camping are not
permitted on the trail and finding campgrounds can be a problem.
You can also go a long way before you encounter supply stations,
so plan accordingly.
That aside, you will see some of the most beautiful geography
Ontario has to offer: primeval forest, unique flora and fauna,
vivid scenery and an interesting cross-section of cultural life.
What follows is by no means a definitive guide to the Bruce Trail.
Just some tips from sections and nearby attractions that I have
experienced.
South Section: Niagara to Hamilton
The trail starts at the foot of the Brock
Monument in Queenston. Major-General Brock was killed here
preventing the Americans from invading. You can climb his statue,
which affords a wonderful view of the gorgeous Niagara Gorge and
the United States. While in this area, take time to contemplate
how Canada (with minimal help from Britain) defeated the United
States in the War of 1812 - the only war the U.S. has ever lost.
Some of the finest wine
in Canada (yes we make wine, some of which even wins international
competitions) is grown here and much of Ontario's fruit. Hence
the names of the places you'll pass through: Vineland and Fruitland.
I know someone who lives in Fruitland. I just can't say Fruitland
without a naughty snicker. It is the subject of frequent taunts.
Near St. Catharines, you'll pass over all four of the Welland
Canals, a major engineering feat that allowed oceangoing vessels
to travel the Great Lakes. The alternative was to go over Niagara
Falls. This is still a busy shipping route and ocean-liners can
be seen crossing it.
As you come to St. Catharines, avoid it as it lacks any character.
Similarly avoid the next big city: Hamilton. Hamilton does have
character, but mostly it is bad and smelly.
In Burlington, the trail passes through the Royal Botanical Gardens. Whether you are into gardens or not, it is well worth a visit. From sculpted exotic gardens to more natural arboretums, it is quite picturesque. It is also here that the headquarters of the Bruce Trail Association is located, at Raspberry House. The Association is responsible for the formation and upkeep of the Trail.
There are some beautiful waterfalls along this section: Balls
Falls (another naughty snicker), Webster's Falls, and Tews Falls
(41m. high - the same as Niagara Falls).
Mount
Nemo and the nearby sidetrail of Rattlesnake Point are among the most popular areas in the province for rockclimbing and also offer beautiful views of the landscape. Don't let the name Rattlesnake Point intimidate you. I have never encountered a rattlesnake on the Trail.
Middle Section: Dundas to Meaford
This part of the trail encompasses the Caledon Hills and
Credit Valley. It is beautiful and quite hilly. Caledon is home
to rich Toronto money and perhaps more than one Mafia boss' mansion.
The village of Cataract is home to - guess - a cataract (a.k.a.
waterfall) and the ruins of an old mill. There are a lot of hardwood
trees in this part so the autumn colours are absolutely stunning.
Blue Mountain (near Collingwood) at 1,770 feet is the highest
point in Southern Ontario is famous for its ski slopes. However,
Blue Mountain is most famous (infamous) for its blue pottery that is omnipresent in Ontarian homes. This is the classic "swan", the pride and joy of all Ontario's happy-homemakers.
North Section: Owen Sound to Tobermory
Now you are entering undoubtedly the best section, the Bruce
Peninsula - it puts the Bruce in Bruce Trail. On one side
is the dramatic Niagara Escarpment forming jagged cliffs and prominent
"lookouts", and on the other side is the azure blue of Georgian
Bay. It is one of the most naturally beautiful areas I've encountered
in the world.
The first city you'll encounter is Owen Sound, hometown of Tom Thomson, the most famous Canadian artist. They have a fairly good art gallery named after him with a good collection of Group of Seven paintings. Inglis Falls nearby is a stunning 100 ft. drop over terraced rocks.
You'll also pass through Wiarton, home to the late, great weather
prognosticator, Wiarton Willie (see April article), and Lion's
Head. The latter was named for a rock formation that supposedly
looks like a lion. I sat in a tavern beholding this formation
and could not remotely see a lion, even after some beers. The
nachos, however, were exemplary.(Hey, after a day of hiking, you'll
appreciate quality grease.)
Devil's Pulpit, (a.k.a. Devil's Monument) is an earthbound flowerpot.
There seems to be a satanic theme to the Bruce Trail as another
section is called Devil's Glen. I guess that's due to the twisted
ankles one gets hiking over all the rocks trying to see these
damned things.
Now the best part, Bruce National Park!!!! It is made of three parts:
Fathom Five in Lake Huron is an underwater park, perfect for scuba divers due to the unique geology (the Escarpment is now underwater) and the plethora of shipwrecks.
Flowerpot Island has two flowerpots (basically a large "rock
column") and a million tourists, but honestly it's worth the boat
ride to the small island. Take a look at the cool flowerpots.
Then hike the circumference of the island, which is ruggedly scenic
and more private.
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The Grotto, Bruce Nat'l Park, a great place to swim.
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Cypress Lake is on the tip of the Bruce Peninsula, near Tobermory.
There is lots of good hiking here. Trails take you through wetlands,
forests and lakes, dramatic cliffs next to Georgian Bay, and to
the popular Grotto. The camping there is very good, as sites are
spacious and quite natural. The park is renowned for its orchids.
Normally, I don't get excited about wildflowers, but they really
are spectacular - all the more beautiful knowing that nature created
it and not some freak with tons of chemical fertilizer and pesticides.
The town of Tobermory
is pleasant enough. It is a bit touristy, with some good arts
and crafts stores surrounding its Little Tub harbour. It is most
famous for the debarkation point for the Chi-cheemaun
Ferry that takes one to Manitoulin Island, a popular yet disappointing, destination. Manitoulin is the world's largest freshwater island.
If you have hiked the entire trail then you'll certainly appreciate
that survival is more than a theme.
Update: Survival can't be too much of an issue for Canadians
as the United Nations just voted us the best country to live in
for the sixth consecutive year! Kickass!!!
Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our North America Insiders page.
