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Also by Jen

Portland, Oregon Travel Guide



Portland, Oregon Travel Guide
Yamhill County
By Jen West

Wine Country Thanksgiving

It's a wine country Thanksgiving!

Yamhill Wine

  • 2002 Best Winery
    • 1st Place: Cuneo Cellars
    • 2nd Place: Erath Vineyards
  • 2002 Best Wine
    • 1st Place: Cuneo Cellars' 2000 Syrah
    • 2nd Place: Erath Vineyards' 1999 La Nuit Magique

Despite waking up at 2:30 a.m. so I could be a work by 4 a.m. (I work in retail), I was unusually perky when my parents and I set off on our annual wine tasting tour in Yamhill County at around noon the day after Thanksgiving. For the last several years, this excursion had replaced the traditional rat race of holiday shopping on the busiest shopping day of the year. The serenity found driving through vine-covered hills miles away from the city was almost like taking a mini vacation in France.

Oregon has become one of the premiere wine-growing regions in the country, rivaling even California's internationally renowned Napa Valley. Oregon's balance of rain and sunshine, and its location along the same latitude as France's Bordeaux region, has made many offerings from this wine region, especially Pinot Noir, favorites among wine connoisseurs.

My parents and I had a few stumbling starts when we reached Newberg – such as not finding the correct highway, getting stuck at a railroad crossing while a train lumbered slowly along and miscommunications between the driver (Dad) and the navigator (Mom). You'd think after five years of wine tasting in the same region, they would have the route memorized by now. (Well, Mom and I always did prefer the scenic route.)

The road for our journey lay just south of Newberg between 99W and Highway 240. Worden Hill Road wound for miles around hills and valleys. Some of the road was paved, some of it was gravel. All of it was an adventure.


Erath Vineyards

  • 9009 N.E. Worden Hill Road
  • P.O. Box 667
  • Dundee, OR 97115
  • 800-539-9463 Fax 800-853-9463
  • www.erath.com
    Our first stop on our self-guided tour was Erath Vineyards, a large vineyard set on a rolling, forested hill with a view of Mt. Hood's snow-capped peak. We remembered Erath Vineyards from the previous year as having an excellent variety of wine, but I think we forgot just how many excellent wines they offered. There were 20 wines to taste at this winery alone; you could spend the entire day just at Erath and feel like you've been to five wineries.

    After we paid the $5 tasting fee and collected our complementary wine glasses, the son of the winery owner greeted us at the door with a taste of their 2000 Pinot Blanc. Not a big fan of white wine, I was skeptical of this wine at first. I was pleasantly surprised. I was sure this was a red wine posing as a white; it was fuller bodied than your typical white wine and had a smooth texture and finish.

    Although this Pinot Blanc was excellent, I'm a red wine lover at heart. But, trying to be a good little winetaster, I tried a couple more whites before moving on to the reds. (Note: you should start with lighter wines such as a Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris before moving on to heavier wines such as Pinot Noir or Cabernet Sauvignon).

    I worked my way down the counter and through several tastes. Despite popular belief, no one ever spits out the wine. There are buckets for discarding undrunk portions of wine, but no one actually spits. Not only is it kind of gross, but if you spit, you miss about half the taste. How the wine travels down your throat and its finish are just as important as its first impression. It would be like watching only the first half of a movie.

    I guided my parents over to the special Pinot tasting section. I had been drawn to the special Pinot wines by one name in particular, the 1999 "La Nuit Magique (Magic Night)." Perhaps I was merely intrigued by the French name of one of the wines, but in any case I decided that any wine that was going to pose as French was worth a taste.

    Of course in order to do the tasting properly, we had to start with the three lighter Pinot Noir wines before reaching "La Nuit Magique." But it was worth the extra tastings. The winery promised "La Nuit Magique" would "knock our socks off," and sure enough, it even sent little shocks down our spines. And our wallets too. Each bottle cost $50. Ouch!

    The staff was friendly and knowledgeable, especially about which foods to eat with which wine. They also offered elegant snacks, such as portabella mushrooms. But I think they should have provided the baguette-style French bread and cheese that they had last year. However, we hadn't even tasted half the sampling available, but we realized we needed to continue on our journey or we wouldn't be leaving – ever.


    Maresh Red Barn

  • 9325 NE Worden Hill Road
  • Dundee, OR 97115
  • 503-537-1098 phone & fax
    Our next stop, Maresh Red Barn (or Red Hill, I've seen it written both ways), was on the next hill, and it is the fifth oldest winery in Oregon. It was so close by, we could even see it from Erath Vineyards. In fact, we probably could've walked the distance, but who wants to trudge down and up a hill after several tastes of wine?

    Maresh was not as crowded as Erath, but they also offered fewer samplings. Of course, I doubt anyone could offer as many tastes as Erath. After tasting three red wines, decided I preferred the bold and spicy 1998 Maresh Red Barn Pinot Noir – Archery Summit. I didn't feel the wines here were as good as those at Erath, but the samples added some variety to our wine tasting day.

    Up until this point, I had taken fairly detailed notes on the wines I liked and disliked, but as the day wore on, my note-taking skills became rather hindered. We were off to vineyard #3, and any stress we may have had coming into the excursion had melted away sometime during our visit to Erath. Mom and I were getting pretty giggly. The funniest part for me was that my mom NEVER gets giggly – which of course made me that much more gigglier. It's a vicious cycle. Although I think Dad was even more amused simply listening to our babble...


    Sokol Blosser

  • 5000 Sokol Blosser Lane
  • PO Box 399
  • Dundee, OR 97115
  • 503-864-2282 or 1-800-582-6668
  • Fax: 503-864-2710 www.sokolblosser.com
    Sokol Blosser, or vineyard #3, was located up the road from Maresh Red Barn. Even before we entered the tasting room, which was actually a basement lined with huge vats and stacks of wooden barrels, we were impressed by the sculpted borders of the grounds. Combed pathways led through trees and small shrubbery that were green even now at the end of November. The view opened up over the rolling hills of vines lying dormant, awaiting spring.

    Down in the tasting room we each had to pay a hefty $15 fee, but it allowed us into the Red Room, a room exclusively for Pinot Noir lovers. We started with the 1999 Watershed Block, which was excellent with bold, distinctive structure that would flourish as it aged. The wine pourer said that this wine would be excellent in about five years. But for it's youth and roughness, the taste we had that day wasn't too shabby either.

    Then we moved on to the 1999 Old Vineyard Block. This one beat out the first wine, hands down. It was full-bodied with a smooth and satiny finish. Coming in to tie with this wine was a taste of the 1999 Twelve Row Block. This rich, full-bodied wine had a silky smooth texture and a long, luxurious finish. Both of these wines would age well, we were told, but they were ready to be drunk now.

    Also, on the wine list, we were excited to see tastes of their older 1993 and 1992 Pinot Noirs. These wines we tasted last and were rather disappointed. They seemed to lack the same structure and body that the other three had. My parents and I agreed that that these wines did not age well.

    Although a few of their wines were excellent, we felt that Sokol Blosser was over-priced for the quality of their wines. Some of their bottles were selling for $75. And the experience of the tasting room was somewhat ruined by the amount of fruit flies annoying the wine tasters. I had to constantly cover my glass with a napkin to keep the flies from taking a swim.


    Cuneo Cellars

  • 750 Lincoln Street
  • Carlton, OR 97111
  • 503-852-0002 Fax 503-852-0175
  • www.cuneocellars.com
  • e-mail: wine@cuneocellars.com
    By this time it was late in the afternoon, and we knew we had to get to our favorite winery soon. Located farther west between Carlton and Yamhill, Cuneo Cellars called out to us like the Sirens from The Odyssey. Okay, maybe that's the wine talking. But we were anxious to get there, because they always have excellent wines and an awesome spread of meats, cheeses and breads. I don't know if I liked this winery more for the food or the wine, but both are just delicious. Their parmesan cheese is the best to cleanse the palate after a taste of wine. It also brings out other distinct flavors in the wines.

    Cuneo's specializes in red wines, and their 2000 Syrah was definitely the favorite this year. Everyone was buzzing about it. The wine was full-bodied, yet not too heavy. It had a crispness to it that was refreshing, while still pleasuring the palate with fruity flavor. The grapes were harvested in Southern Oregon, which yielded smaller grapes bursting with flavor.

    Gino Cuneo, the owner, stood at two barrels with a three-foot-long tube that looked like a giant eye dropper, and offered barrel tastings of two excellent vintages, the 2001 Cana's Feast Bordeaux-style blend from the Del Rio Vineyard in Southern Oregon and the 2001 Cana's Feast Bordeaux-style blend from the Red Mountain vineyard. Both were excellent.

    In general, this wine tasting experience was fun and exciting. But our favorite wineries, Cuneo Cellars and Erath Vineyards, still remain undefeated as our wine champs of the year. Both offer variety, affordable tasting and munchies to help cleanse the palate.

    One thing I did miss this year, however, was music. In years past, many of the wineries hosted local or family bands. But we didn't see any this time. Music just seems to add something extra to the wine tasting experience. But all in all, we had a great time out in the Oregon countryside.

    Questions?
    If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our North America Insiders page.


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