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Out of the Mist




Victoria, BC - July 2000
By Barbara Ballard

Visitors to Victoria who come the last day of June or 1st of July should note that July 1 is a holiday in Canada (there's usually fireworks at the Inner Harbour in the evening). It equates with July 4th in the US. Thus, things can be really busy - hotels booked and transportation line-ups. If you've had no experience with a ferry system and are coming by car, be warned. The July 1st holiday weekend, and, for that matter, most of the summer, means long delays on the ferries.

If you show up to catch a 10am ferry, you may be surprised that it could be 1 or 2pm, at the earliest, before you get on (in spite of the fact that the ferries hold 400 cars). If spending a day in a line-up isn't your thing and your time is flexible, a weekday or a Saturday (in the middle of a holiday weekend) tends to be slower. You might consider renting a car once you are here or leaving it at a long-term car park on the mainland, if you don't need it. Be sure to check the events listed at the end of this article. There's lots happening this month.

Belmont Block Architectural Walking Tours. Ask for them. They're free. You'll have your eyes opened. It's amazing how we can walk around, pass by buildings and never see what's there. Architecturally speaking, that is. Historically speaking, too. Victoria is replete with interesting buildings, many of which have starred in movies. In fact, one whole street was featured in the movie, "Little Women".

Whether you're interested in Victoria's history, Old Town, Chinatown, art deco, ecclesiastical architecture, warehouses and more, the Architectural Institute of BC's sponsored tours will provide something to your liking. Most of the walking tours last 1¼ hours and focus on a particular area or type of architecture.

They're conducted by Angela Andersen, who has seen Europe's architecture first hand. With her university degree in History in Art, she is eminently qualified to lead you through a door to Victoria's past. Angela has a wealth of information at her fingertips to really bring Victoria alive. You'll learn when and who built structures, what style a building is, what it was formerly used for, about historic restorations, materials used in the buildings and why they are the way they are.

You'll hear what Victoria would have looked like at a particular time in history. You'll know which building is one of the oldest brick ones in the whole province, which is the longest continuously operating commercial building in Victoria (hint: chocolates are sold here now, just like then), which china shop was a first class hotel during the gold rush and what the Victoria Information Centre originally housed (you'll never guess!).

Christ Church Cathedral Continuing our spotlight on history, and especially for visitors from Britain, let's look at Christ Church Cathedral, which has some interesting connections to England.

Christ Church Cathedral, an Anglican church, is not a grand cathedral in the sense of the larger British and European ones, but it is well worth a visit.

There's a self-guide for visitors just inside the nave. Built in the Gothic style, the church dates from 1929 through 1991 and is one of Canada's largest churches at 93 x 140 feet, with towers 122 feet high.

Chapel of the New Jerusalem window There are a number of stained glass windows, but the most dramatic is the large one seen straight ahead on entering the nave, the "Chapel of the New Jerusalem" window, designed by a Londoner. With the light shining behind it, it is simply awe-inspiring. Be sure to search out the stone nest and carving of a bird on the "Robin Pillar". This sculpture is a tribute to a bird that built its nest near the capital of one of the pillars. All building operations halted until the eggs were hatched.

The pulpit of the church was made from the wood of a 500-year-old tree that grew in Sussex, England. In the Lady Chapel near the altar are twelve ancient stones, dating back at least seven centuries, that formed part of the high altar screen in Canterbury Cathedral in Canterbury, England.

In the small but peaceful shaded grounds of the Cathedral a meditative circle has been constructed. A lovely place to rest, have a picnic and contemplate life away from the busyness of the day. In July and August the cathedral puts on a free recital series at 4pm every Saturday afternoon.

Essential Information
Sussex Building The Architectural Walking Tours start at their office in the courtyard of the Sussex Building at the corner of Douglas and Broughton downtown. Note the "Community Arts Council" signs.

  • Tour 1 is the Inner Harbour and looks at the following buildings: Empress Hotel, the Legislature, the Royal BC Museum, Union Club, Belmont Block and Roger's Chocolates.

  • Tour 2 is the site of Fort Victoria. You will learn about the growth of Victoria and the following buildings: Temple Buildings, Bank of Montreal, Law Chambers and Rithet Warehouses.

  • Tour 3 is of Old Town and Chinatown.

  • Tour 4 is Ecclesiastical Architecture. You'll see Christ Church Cathedral, St. Andrew's, St. Ann's Academy, and others.

  • Tour 5 is of Art Deco buildings: Victoria in the 1930s and 40s.

    Every second Saturday a Special Series will operate: Modernism in Victoria, Women and Architecture and Architectural Decoration in Downtown Victoria. For a schedule pick up a brochure at the public library, local bookstores and shops, at the Sussex Building office and hotel concierge desks.

    Christ Church Cathedral is located at the intersection of Quadra St. and Courtney. Tel. 383-2714 for schedule of services.

    July Events
    The Great Canadian Family Picnic
    Held on July 1st at Beacon Hill Park to celebrate Canada Day. Featured are more than 25 local artists, lots of entertainment for kids, open-air stage entertainment and pieces of free Canada Day cake. Free and a great place to be if you are travelling with kids.

    BC 2000 Summer Games
    From July 27-30 at various venues. More than 4500 athletes, coaches and families from all over BC will descend on the city for the competitive games that include archery, basketball, parachuting, rowing, rugby, swimming and lots more.
    Phone 250-387-1375 or email bcgames@bcgames.org for information regarding tickets.

    Victoria Symphony Summer Music Festival and Summer Cathedral Fest
    At Christ Church Cathedral from July 4-15. Classical music in the cathedral includes 11 concerts with a variety of entertainment by orchestra, chamber ensemble, quartets and solo performers. On July 1st there will be a special concert on the steps of the Cathedral. For further information call 250-385-6515.

    Victoria Flower and Garden Festival
    At Royal Roads University on Sooke Rd. July 7-9. Thirty free seminars (with $7.50 admission price) for new and experienced gardeners featuring beautiful display gardens.

    Victoria Shakespeare Festival
    At St Ann's Academy Auditorium, downtown Victoria. July 13-Ausgust 19. As You Like It, Hamlet and Lysistrata are this year's productions. Tickets range from $5-14. For further details call 250-360-0234.

    Strawberry Festival
    At Elk/Beaver Lake Park on July 9 from 9am-4pm. Pancake family breakfast with local fresh strawberries and cream at 3pm. Free admission to live entertainment and activities. For children there are pony rides, face painting and more.

    Moss Street Paint-In
    This popular event is held on Moss St. starting at the Victoria Art Gallery and travelling down the street. July 15, from 1-4pm. More than 75 well known artists work along the street using a variety of media and style. In the Gallery parking lot there's a beer garden and food, available from 12noon till 8:30pm. A dance in the parking lot begins at 5pm and features the band, "Kumbia". Look for more than 25,000 people to attend this free festival. Phone: 250-384-4101.

    "A Bite of Victoria Food Festival"
    At Government House on Rockland Ave. on July 15. From 11am-3pm, Victoria restaurants and eateries will provide a variety of food and beverages for sampling at $1 per "Bite" ticket. Buskers, musicians and local artists will also inhabit the grounds.

    Quirky Stuff
    Victoria is a wired world. Of all the cities in Canada, it is number 3 in the number of households hooked up to the web. To send emails home, two cyber cafes are located downtown:
    Cyber Station at 1113 Blanshard St. and
    Victoria Cyber Café at 1414B Douglas St. (as of this writing!)

    ©2000 by Barbara Ballard. Reproduction of this work in whole or in part, including images, and reproduction in electronic media, without documented permission from the author is prohibited. Cathedral photos courtesy Christ Church Cathedral. Building photos courtesy Angela Andersen, Architectural Society of BC.

    Questions?
    If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our North America Insiders page.


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