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Victoria, British Columbia - March 2002
By Barbara Ballard
Tea Lovers Take Note
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Image courtesy of the White Heather Tea Room
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When they come to Victoria, most tourists put tea at the Empress Hotel on their 'must do' list. Well, the ambience is certainly there, and the service is wonderful, but - and it's a BIG but - the price is ridiculous and the food is - well, mass-produced. The last time I checked, it was $35 for a pot of tea, some bite-size sandwiches and a few oversweet and tasteless goodies. In spite of this, people sign up by the droves, pumped by the tourist hype and the Empress's reputation.
Now if you want a really authentic, really delicious, really British type tea at a really reasonable price, go to The White Heather Tea Room. It's a bus ride or car journey about 5 minutes from downtown and worth every minute of it. It's a small restaurant with a dozen or so tables, just like a real English tea room.
Everything is homemade on the premises under the direction of the jolly owner, Agnes Campbell, who is as Scottish as they come, accent and all. They serve light lunches (salads, soups, quiches), dinner on Fridays (Oct-May) as well as tea. You won't taste better in Victoria; I guarantee it. The tables are dressed with white linens and real china. Loose leaf teas of several varieties, real homemade jam and Devon cream, daily baked scones, Scottish shortbread, tarts, Scottish oatcakes, and other goodies are only a hand's reach away. What more could anyone ask for? Just that they were all calorie free.
Located at 1885 Oak Bay Ave. (Take Fort St. from town and Oak Bay juts right off it). Tel. 595-8020. Reservations recommended because of its size. Closed on Mon., open Tues-Sat from 9:30-5 and Sun. 10-5; Sun. brunch 10-2, teas daily 1:30-5. Go!
New Eating/Lounge Spots in Town
I can't personally recommend any of these because I haven't eaten at them, but thought I'd let you know about them if you are looking for something new to try.
- Brasserie L'Ecole at 1715 Gov't. St. in Chinatown describes itself as an upscale French bistro featuring cassoulet and steak with fries, plus a variety of beers. Open for dinner only, Tues through Sat. Tel. 475-6260.
- Mermaid Lounge is a new bar at the Mermaid Wharf building at 407 Swift St. They also serve food such as calzones, ribs, and lamb. Tel. 381-9333.
- Soup Etc. at 1001 Douglas St. (Sussex Place) is one of a series of BC locations. Their menu lists 50 types of soup, stews, and chowders (only 8 on any one day) plus salads and baguette sandwiches.
A restaurant I have tried, Four Mile Roadhouse (said to be haunted), is a pleasant stop if you are on the way west of Victoria (perhaps to visit the gardens at Royal Roads or drive to the Sooke area) or returning to town. It's located on a grubby road, the old highway from Victoria out to Colwood, but don't let that put you off. It's the fourth oldest house in Victoria's history - obviously modified over the years.
The house was built by a Peter Calvert from Scotland, who sailed as an indentured servant of the Hudson's Bay Co. He worked for them for five years. On the voyage over to Victoria he fell in love and after his service was over, married. He bought a six-acre parcel of land beside the original highway that the stagecoaches traversed. He decided to open a roadhouse and start a staging service. He had a parrot in a tree outside the Four Mile House (the name comes from its location along the highway), and the parrot was reported to whistle at the horses and call out 'whoa'.
In the late 40's the Four Mile House was translated into a dine and dance place with a brothel upstairs for sailors. Closed down and neglected until 1979, the building was renovated and reopened as the present restaurant and lounge - totally respectable now, of course. The food is inexpensive for the amount served, but not remarkable.
Other New Stuff
New Store
All lovers of Irish handknit sweaters and gifts who visited Government St.'s Avoca store will notice that it has closed. Not to worry, it's across the same street under a new name, 'Out of Ireland'. Formerly a company store, it's now privately owned.
Neighbourhood Walks for History Buffs
Neighbourhood Discovery Walks, lead by John Adams, historian and storyteller, cover the history of a number of Victoria's special spots. No reservations needed, just show up. For details of times and places visit the website or tel. 384-6698. They also offer ghost walks.
New Tour on Offer
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The Three Daughters II
photo courtesy of 3D Land and Sea Eco Tours
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3D Land and Sea Eco Tours has a 60 ft wooden sailboat offering cruises and overnight accommodation off the BC coast, visiting environmentally and culturally significant sites. It sails from Sidney, half an hour's drive from downtown Victoria (or take a bus). Accommodation, transportation, and food are included in their packages. Pickup can be arranged at Swartz Bay ferry terminal. Children and pet friendly service. For full details visit the website. Tel. 881-4103.
Music, Art, and Stage Events
Through April 7
EMILY CARR: ECCENTRIC ARTIST, AUTHOR, and GENIUS
Royal British Columbia Museum, 675 Belleville St.
Immerse yourself in the world of Emil Carr and her talents. Website: www.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca for special events that tell of Emily's life and times. Tel. 387-3701
March 3
CENTURY SERIES 5 - VICTORIA SYMPHONY
UVic Centre Auditorium
The Victoria Symphony Orchestra presents Kees Bakels, Conductor. Musical performances of Ives - Symphony No. 3 (The Camp Meeting), Rossini - William Tell: Overture, Shostakovich - Symphony No. 15, Op. 14. Show starts at 3:30 pm.
Tickets Available at Tourism Victoria
Tel. 385-6515
March 8
ROYAL MISDEMEANOURS - SPECTRUM 2002 SERIES
Alix Goolden Hall, 907 Pandora Avenue
Tales of Shakespeare and works by important composers of that era expose love and corruption in the courts of Europe. Show starts at 7:30 pm, tickets: $12 Adults / $10 Students, seniors, and Victoria Conservatory of Music Members.
Tickets Available at Tourism Victoria
Tel. 386-6121
March 7 - 9
Pops series 5 - Victoria Symphony
Royal Theatre, 805 Broughton Street
The Victoria Symphony Orchestra presents Fancy Footwork: the world of waltzes, polkas, and marches by Tchaikovsky, Glinka, Shostakovich, Smetana, Sousa, and others come alive under the direction of the Victoria Symphony's Music Director and conductor, Kees Bakels. Show starts March 7 at 2 pm, March 8 & 9 at 8 pm.
Tickets Available at Tourism Victoria
Tel. 386-6121
March 10
YOUNG PEOPLE SERIES 3 - VICTORIA SYMPHONY
Royal Theatre, 805 Broughton Street
The Victoria Symphony Orchestra presents Faerie Magic:
Shakespeare's A Midsummer Night's Dream is brought to life by the mastery of Mendelssohn's music. Follow the antics of faeries and sprites as the orchestra plays these irresistible melodies - including the famous Wedding March. Shows start at 2 pm & 3:30 pm.
Tickets Available at Tourism Victoria
Tel. 386-6121
March 17 - 18
LEGACY SERIES 5 - VICTORIA SYMPHONY
UVic Centre Auditorium
The Victoria Symphony Orchestra presents musical performances of Sibelius - Pélleas and Mélisande, Op. 46, Prokofiev - Violin Concerto No. 2, Op. 63, Evangelista - Symphony Minute, Haydn - Symphony No. 98. Show starts March 17 at 2:30 pm & March 18 at 8:00 pm.
Tickets Available at Tourism Victoria
Tel. 385-6515
March 5 - 17
I, CLAUDIA
Belfry Theatre, 1291 Gladstone Avenue
I, Claudia is a solo mask play written and performed by the actor, Kristen Thomson. It is also her playwriting debut. Awkward Claudia is a twelve-year old dealing with her parent's divorce and her impending leap into teendom. Thomson, with the use of masks, plays Claudia, her neurotic soon-to-be stepmother, her wise grandfather, and the janitor at Claudia's school in this new play.
Tickets Available at Tourism Victoria
Tel. 385-6815
March 19 - 31
DOWN DANGEROUS PASSES ROAD
Belfry Theatre, 1291 Gladstone Avenue
Three brothers crash their truck on a gravel road. It is the first time they have been together, alone, in years. Their past, a maelstrom, provokes intense emotions as they try to reacquaint themselves and start on their journey to redemption.
Tickets Available at Tourism Victoria
Tel. 385-6815
©2002 by Barbara Ballard. Reproduction of this work in whole or in part, including images, and reproduction in electronic media, without documented permission from the author is prohibited.
Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our North America Insiders page.
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