Cafe Brio
By Barbara Ballard
West Coast Fare Fresh from the Sea and Soil
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Cafe Brio
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Cafe Brio is a bistro style restaurant whose philosophy is serve it fresh and serve it organic, if possible. And the taste treats that chef Sean Brennan comes up with do more than justice to the ingredients of the West Coast contemporary dishes. The menu here is ever changing and ever current. Natural flavours zing with just the right amount of added spices.
On arrival a well lit, charming patio first greets the eye followed inside by the colours of Tuscany complimented by local artwork decorating the walls. Warm chandeliers, flickering candles and wide planked wooden floors completed the spell of enchantment as my friend and I slid into a cozy booth.
Confit of duck was served with French lentils and arugula. The duck, rich and flavourful, literally melted in our mouths and brought a sigh of delight to our lips. Saltspring Island mussels, fresh from the sea, were cooked just right. Digging into the shells to extract the tiny, tasty morsels was a treat. Roasted beet tartar complimented by frisee lettuce, goat cheese and olive oil was an interesting and flavourful appetizer. A delicious, fresh, seared scallop topped with crisp potato roesti, emphasized the attention to detail and freshness of Cafe Brio's philosophy.
The fresh olive crusted Rock cod served on a bed of braised leeks, spinach and Lyonaisse potatoes, was fresh and light tasting but, perhaps, lacked inspiration. Or maybe it was just that cod is cod, not something to get excited about.
Not so of the exquisite chocolate cake. Whipped up from eggs, butter, sugar and lots of chocolate, it was both light textured and rich, a confection of ecstasy for chocolate lovers. To end our repast, owner Greg Hays whipped up a great cappuccino - dark, bitter and full of flavour - it was a fitting end to an evening of gourmet treats for the sophisticated palate.
The wine list is extensive - more than 150 by the bottle and 30 by the glass or ½ litre. Suggested wine accompaniments are listed for the dishes on the menu. Beer on tap is from local microbrewery, Lighthouse Brewing Co. Martinis are a specialty, and single malt Scotch is available.
Cafe Brio
944 Fort St.
(250)383-0009
Reservations recommended
Lunches Tues - Sat
Dinner every night from 5:30pm
Lunches: Sandwiches, pastas and entrees from $8.00.
Dinners: Appetizers from $6, pastas from $12, entrees from $16 to $32.
©2000 by Barbara Ballard. Reproduction of this work in whole or in part, including images, and reproduction in electronic media, without documented permission from the author is prohibited. Image courtesy of Cafe Brio.
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