The walls of the softly lit dining room are covered in elegant deep green tapestry reminiscent of the finest in any country home. The 20-ft. high ceiling is decorated with a carved mahogany ceiling, adding to the luxury.

In the background classic music plays at just the right level to enhance but not interfere with the restful surroundings. At certain times of the year - Christmas for instance - live music is provided at half-hour intervals. A harpist played Christmas music when my friend and I visited the restaurant.

After we were escorted to the table, a waiter at each of our chairs pulled them out and placed napkins on our laps. Our waiter then asked if iced water was appropriate before pouring it.

Although a sommelier was not available, the waiter seemed well versed in the skill. The wine list was extensive - 350 bottles - and arranged according to region. Four pages alone were devoted to wine by the glass. A specialty is local wines.

My friend ordered a pre-dinner Tio Pepe and was impressed that it was served chilled, something few restaurants know to do.

For appetizers I ordered a squash soup, delicately seasoned to bring out the full flavour of the vegetable. My friend ordered a smoked salmon and tuna appetizer served on a biscuit flavoured with dill. The bread, served before the meal, was fresh and had a springy texture. The crust was toothsome without being rubbery.

Before the main course, we were served a pear and cinnamon sorbet to cleanse the palette. Perfect.

A full-bodied 1997 Australian Shiraz was ordered by the glass to compliment an order of duck with honey glaze and blueberry sauce. The thinly sliced duck was succulent, and its flavour was well complimented by the sauce. It was served over a mound of creamy smashed spuds and a small portion of fresh green beans, carrots and squash - a nice variety of flavours and textures.

The very large piece of grilled salmon was not quite as successful, being served with a tomato sauce that did nothing to enhance its flavour. A token serving of a variety of root vegetables accompanied the salmon.

For dessert I ordered a lavender and pear crème brulèe, pleasant but rather bland. My friend found her profiteroles flavourful but tough. They were served with a more than adequate pitcher of delicious caramel sauce - just the right consistency and sweetness.

One helpful feature of the dessert menu was the listing of appropriate wines to compliment each dessert. The light mellow port suggested to accompany the profiteroles was exactly right.

After the meal, we felt coddled. We had a delightful dining experience - enjoying good food, enhanced by faultless service and a décor that enveloped us in cozy luxury.

Postnote:
The Empress has a new chef, starting February 2001.

Sample menu items from the new 3 course price fixed menu:

Appetizers
Smoked salmon with panchetta and fingering potatoes.
Corn Crusted sea scallops with beet and minted pea cous cous.
Smoked tomato broth with mascarpone ravioli, wild rice and Mediterranean vegetables.

Main Course
Baked Sea Bass, purple potato, picked Japanese eggplant, string vegetables and black bean mango salsa.
West Coast salmon and sun-choked wanton crunch topped with grilled scallions and charred corn relish.
Macadamia nut crusted lamb rack on ratatouille of vegetables and barley risotto.

Desserts
White chocolate passionfruit cream with crispy hazelnut chocolate base.
Pineapple walnut dacquiose with frozen vanilla bean parfait and coconut caramel sauce.

The Empress Room
At the (Fairmont) Empress Hotel in Victoria, BC.
Tel: 250-389-2727 (restaurant)
Tel: 250-384-8111 (hotel)
Toll free: 1-800-441-1414 (hotel)
Email: theempress@fairmont.com
Web site: http://www.cphotels.com/cp.asp?loc=empress
Reservations essential (in high season - at least one week in advance)
Closed in January and first week February
AAA 4 diamond restaurant

©2000 by Barbara Ballard. Reproduction of this work in whole or in part, including images, and reproduction in electronic media, without documented permission from the author is prohibited. Photo courtesy (Fairmont) Empress Hotel.

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