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Asia Newsletter - April 2002

Featured Country: Japan

Japan is one of the most interesting islands and countries you can set foot in. Time-honored traditions mix and balance with modern and Western technology and culture. Tourism is popular; technology, ubiquitous. Yet there is far more.

Located in eastern Asia, Japan en masse is an island chain, slightly smaller than California, between the North Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Japan, east of the Korean Peninsula. It also includes the Bonin Islands (Ogasawara-gunto), Daito-shoto, Minami-jima, Okino-tori-shima, Ryukyu Islands (Nansei-shoto), and the Volcano Islands (Kazan-retto). That's not a bad amount of room, but it can get a little cramped when it's also home to over 127 million people.

Climate varies from tropical in the south, to cool and temperate in the north. From the lowest point of Hachiro-gata (4 meters, or 13 feet below sea level), the terrain is mostly rugged and mountainous all the way to Fujiyama, the highest point at 3,776 m (12,388 ft). Fujiyama, or Mt. Fuji (but not "Mt. Fujiyama", which would be saying "Mount Fuji Mountain") is also one of the most popular and well-known mountains both Japanese and worldwide; many consider its shape to be perfect, both aesthetically and geometrically. You'll have to see for youself.

But be careful: Japan's location and geography make it subject to more than a few natural hazards. There are many dormant and some active volcanoes (not that we Boot Boyz, just west of the volcanic Oregon Cascades, can say much), as well as a few tsunamis and about 1,500 seismic occurrences (mostly just tremors, but some earthquakes) every year. Before you ask, however, there are not any giant monsters in the birthplace of Godzilla movies.

Japanese is the official language. Dosh-wise, the official currency is the yen (JPY/¥). Current exchange rates (approx.):

  • US$1=¥133
  • AU$1=¥71
  • CA$1=¥84
  • GB£1=¥192
  • EU€1=¥118

Perhaps the most important thing you need to know about Japan though, comes from a friend of ours, whose work used to take him to Japan a lot. His translator once said to him, "One very important thing you need to know, to survive in Japan," followed by these magic words (spelled phonetically, more or less):

"See-mo say, Sapporo, hai!" ("Bartender, Sapporo [very tasty Japanese beer], now please!")

Now you try. And keep reading for more info on Japan, as well as other travelers' experiences there.


What's in this issue?


AIRFARE DEALS
Brought to you by the BootsnAll TripPlanner
Plan and book your round-the-world or multi-continental trip!

By the way, we're not talking about air-hotel-and-car-rental stuff, but multi-destination air tickets, so packaged to help get you a better deal. Perhaps you don't like trains or buses; perhaps your schedule is tight; in any case, use BootsnAll's TripPlanner to build your itinerary, not only for getting to Asia, but for flying from country to country.

Here are some examples we found:
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Now, log on to the TripPlanner and put together an itinerary of the places you want to see!

More Specials & Deals
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Cheap Ticket Links


FEATURED CONTENT

From the ultra-modern people and cities, to the traditions and countryside untouched by tech and change, Japan appeals in many ways to many of BootsnAll's writers and travelers. Here are a few pieces from some of them:

  • Tokyo, Japan Travel Guide - Articles about what you need to have great travels in Tokyo, as well as links to articles on other Japanese cities.

  • Geisha Fantasies - Teressa Rerras journeyed to Kyoto to photograph the elusive geisha and to become one, if only for a day.

  • A Japanese Wedding - Cameron Beatty was one of only two Westerners at a Japanese wedding reception. This truly was a cultural experience.

If you would like to submit an article on your travel experiences, check out our Writer's Guidelines, then send it along.


FEATURED MESSAGE BOARD THREAD

What's weird and cool in Japan

On the Asia Discussion board, culprit is trying to find "any place in Japan that has not been built up and industrialized". Log in or register your handle, then jump into the discussion and throw down your two million yen on What's weird and cool in Japan.

Be sure to check out the other discussions on our boards as well:

http://boards.BootsnAll.com/


WHAT OUR INSIDERS SAY

BootsnAll Insiders are a great source of information, and they can tell you what the guidebooks can't. If you're traveling to Japan and have some specific questions, or you're just curious, talk to any of our Japan Insiders.

We asked Insider Mary Keener for her take on Japan, and here's what she had to say:

  • If Japan is on your travelling agenda, count on spending more rather than less. And cash is what you'll need, what's accepted and what everyone uses. If you must have a credit card, get a Japanese card. Your cash is safe on your person. Japanese are honest, respectful and courteous. If you misplace your funds, they'll be returned to you (provided there is identification) quickly with a bow and a grin to acknowledge your extreme gratefulness.

  • Everything in Japan is worth seeing depending upon your interests. Temples, gardens, grocery stores, souvenir shops, rice and green tea fields, shopping arcades, fresh food markets, pachinkos (slot machine kingdoms) are well worth your attention. There aren't many tourists in Japan. It is an expensive country and a country that isn't hungry for tourists. Your agenda will most likely not coincide or bump heads with other travellers.

  • Nothing surpasses strolling along, becoming one with the hordes of people and letting yourself experience your surroundings. Japanese are kind but not terribly friendly. They'll help you if you ask them. They know more English than they admit to so don't let their apologetic demeanor fool you. Japanese are perfectionists. Although they will proclaim their inadequacy in speaking your language, they'll surely beam with any compliments you generously and sincerely give them.

  • Japan is an orderly nation. Even with their shuffling, running and rushing, Japanese are patient, polite and civilized. They will not push you, give you a hurry-up look or expect you as a gaijin (foreigner) to be one with your present environment.

  • Public transporation is the way to transport yourself from one city to another. It is punctual and clean. The shinkansen (bullet train) is fast and expensive. Local trains are more reasonable. The subway in Tokyo, buses and bicycles in Kyoto are the preferred means to get around in these localities. Your feet are the cheapest and most time consuming anywhere, anytime.

  • Slurping one's noodles, coughing, sniffling are accepted. Eating with hashi (chopsticks) is prevalent, however, you'll find forks and knives readily available at non-Japanese establishments. Blowing your nose in public is a definite no-no, but gargling mouthwash and green tea loudly is appropriate (green tea is considered an antiseptic in the cold-and-flu season). Carrying a handkerchief will come in handy when you need to wipe your nose, your hands or your mouth. Paper and hand towels are not provided except in luxury hotels and restaurants.

  • Be prepared to feel huge, clumsy and ignorant. No matter your prior research, you'll be surprised, in perpetual awe and overwhelmed with the frustrations and elations in store for you. You are in for a great and memorable adventure. Whether you hate or love Japan is up to you.

Aaron Keating also told us more about skiing in Japan than we thought was humanly possible: Sent us so many tips on the Nagano region of Japan, that we figured it'd be better to give him his own travel guide. Check out the Nagano, Japan Travel Guide for Aaron's tips on hot springs, skiing and more:

Nagano Travel Guide

  • Japan-Nagano Prefecture: Eastern Nagano Skiing
    Karuizawa, not far from Karuizawa Station, is owned and operated by the Prince Hotel chain and has prices to go along with any association to that costly group. The ski-ground itself is not all that large or impressive. Its greatest selling point is that it is near Tokyo and has a reputation as a ski hang-out for the rich and famous. In short, there are tons of ski-bunnies more concerned with their make-up and the contour they cut in their ski wear than they are with the idea of actually skiing. For some, this overabundance of make-up-laden fluff bunnies is not a problem. But if you really want to do some skiing there are a lot of better hills with better snow conditions elsewhere in the prefecture.

    Sugadaira Kogen is a great place to learn to ski or snowboard. A large area, it can be difficult to navigate around in some areas. Accessible by bus from Ueda City (about 1 hour). Gets crowded on weekends (like everywhere else).

  • Japan-Nagano Prefecture: Northern Nagano Skiing
    • Nozawaonsen is a very popular and expensive resort due to the availability of good onsens and skiing in one place. Nozawaonsen can get ridiculously crowded on weekends and holidays. It has some wide and gentle slopes at the bottom, suitable for beginners, and some very mogully black runs, for good skiers, but nothing much in-between. The resort does boast a very long run – a rare treat in this country. Riding the gondola to the top allows you to ski down the ridge of the mountain for about 10 minutes. Wonderful though this may sound, however, this run is very narrow and gets mogully in places. Bottlenecks of smoking (if male) and shrieking (if female) Japanese skiers thus provide unwelcome interruptions to what would otherwise be a good run down.

      Get to Nozawaonsen by taking the Iiyama Line from Nagano to Togari-Nozawaonsen Station (¥720), then a bus (about ¥800) to Nozawaonsen Village. Takes just over an hour and a half in total. The ski area offers slopes for every level. Beginners and intermediate slopes are groomed regularly, and advanced slopes are usually left alone to turn into mogul slopes. Snowboarding is absolutely forbidden in Nozawa. From mid-December until March or April there is a free shuttle bus cruising around in the village to transport ski guests from a stop near their inn to the bottom of the ski hill.

      Nozawa ski tip: Don't force yourself on endless marches in your ski boots in the village as all Japanese ski guests do. You can leave your shoes in a locker in the Hikage Information Center. And you will get your ¥100 yen coin back, when you empty the locker!

    • Togari is crowded during the university holidays due to its popularity as a university ski trip destination. Togari has something for everyone and is a favorite of many. There are long, wide nursery slopes at the bottom; further up are some mogul runs that are actually skiable even if you're not world-class, and if you take the single chair lift to the top you can ski a long, windy run that isn't usually too crowded and allows you to make-believe you're an Olympic skier. This last run is pretty scary in bad weather conditions though – best to stay lower down, unless of course you are an Olympic skier. I believe snow boarding is permitted here, though I've seen few.

      Take the Iiyama Line to Togari-Nozawaonsen Station ¥720, and a taxi to the slopes will cost you ¥1000. Alternatively, it's a 25-30 minute walk from the station. There is a bus but it's very irregular. Total time: 1 to 1 1/2 hours, depending on how you get from the station to the slopes.

    • Madarao, host to the Newport Jazz Festival in early August, is a poseur paradise in winter – you'd be hard pushed to find more gaudy and flashy ski-wear. It is said that at least 60% of this would-be-European ski resort's clientele are university students on the hunt for a mate, so the skiing itself is clearly not top on their list of priorities.

      If it weren't so crowded, this would be a great resort – there are a couple of long-ish runs down the right-hand side of the mountain as you look up. These runs usually stay fairly skiable, but the more central runs (mostly moguls) get very icy and bare due to being over-skied. There are also more hapless skiers standing on them than skiing them – you'd think there was an easier way to get a date, wouldn't you?! Apparently, the off-piste skiing is great after a good snowfall. Be careful not to ski into Tangram resort – it'll cost you to get back up.

      In Madarao, Suzuki Pension is close to the slopes, cozy, and includes 2 gourmet meals for under ¥9 000 a night. When you've had enough of it all, get your jaws around one of "Tommy's" legendary 'big burgers' ¥1000 – they're excellent and the proprietress of this small bar speaks English fluently.

      A note on the lift passes: at first glance they seem expensive, but this is because the pass is in the form of a little magnetic disc which you clip into a fluorescent holder, a bit like a wrist watch. When you're done, you put your used pass into one of the orange machines to be refunded your ¥1000 deposit. Snow-boarding is allowed here, too. Get to Madarao by taking the train to Iiyama (¥560) and then a bus to Madarao (¥800). Total time: 1 1/2 hours or more, depending on how soon you get the bus. Check the bus schedule before you ski.

    • Kijimadaira has mostly wide, fairly long and even runs best suited to beginner-intermediate level. However, there is also a run at the top that they claim is the steepest in Nagano Prefecture. It is very steep, and I wouldn't bother with it unless you are an excellent skier – you'll spend 45 minutes walking/sliding down, and you'll be lucky if you don't break a leg. Of the four main resorts in the Iiyama area, this one is the most family-oriented. It is also often over-run with high school ski trips during early February. Popular with snow-boarders.

      Kijimadaira is not easily or cheaply accessible unless you have a car. Take the Nagano Dentetsu Line to Kijima (¥1290) – about 1 hour. From Kijima Station, there are only 3 buses a day to the resort. Your best bet is to take a taxi, which will cost upwards of ¥2000. By car, cross the bridge from Iiyama City to Kijima Village and head up. It takes about one and a half hours from Nagano, 20-30 minutes from Iiyama.

    • Kurohime is similar to Kijimadaira in that it is popular with families and school trips, Kurohime has wide and extensive runs for both beginners and intermediates, as well as a couple of not-too-scary mogul runs. Take the Shin'etsu Line to Kurohime ¥470, 30 minutes from Nagano, then bus to slopes.

    • Iizuna Resort is not to be confused with the smaller Iizuna Ski Area, which is a little closer to Nagano. Iizuna Resort is newer, has excellent facilities and is easily accessible from Nagano City. Despite its proximity to the city, it doesn't get as unbearably crowded as you might expect. The big bus-loads of skiers from Tokyo, Osaka, etc. seem to head for the bigger names – Happo, Shiga and Nozawaonsen. The lifts from the bottom include triple and quads, so you're never waiting too long. Runs are wide and long, with a couple of nasty mogul runs right at the top. It's another resort that welcomes snowboarders. A famous Australian snow-board fanatic says that if it's full of deep snow, the top lift line is "psychotically good". Lift attendants are to be avoided if you wish to engage in such activities.

      Particularly useful to inhabitants of Nagano City is the fact that Iizuna Resort has night skiing all week, very good value at ¥1800 for 5 hours' skiing 5-10 p.m., weather permitting. You also get a free soft drink in the very pleasant cafeteria, included in the price. Of course, whether you can ski the same 2 slopes over and over again for 5 hours without getting bored is another matter, but it's good if you just want to get out after work, or if you need to work on your "technique" (ha!). Driving from Nagano takes 30-40 minutes depending on conditions. There is also a bus from Nagano about ¥800, takes 45-60 minutes, or you can take the Shin'etsu Line from Nagano to Mure Village ¥310, 20 minutes, and then a bus from Mure. The Mure bus probably doesn't run at night though.

    • At Shiga Kogen you'll find 22 major ski grounds. Some go by the names of Kumanoyu, Ichinose, Sun Valley/Maruike, and Okushiga. Most of them are geared for kamikaze skiers. But let me assure you, I've always managed to enjoy myself on slopes which didn't require additional accident insurance. Those places don't offer half-day passes, so to get your money's worth, arrival on the first train, or stopover at one of the hotels or pensions is recommended. Full day passes are ¥4000 and up. Hotels are often crowded and expensive, starting at ¥12,000.

      To get to Shiga from Nagano City, take the Nagano Dentetsu to Yudanaka, and board a bus for either Okushiga or Kumanoyu in front of the station. You can also take a (very expensive) taxi from Yudanaka Station.

  • Japan-Nagano Prefecture: Central Nagano Skiing
    • From Yanaba Station, it's only a short walk across to Sunalpina Kashimayari Ski Area, so a taxi/shuttle bus isn't necessary. Sunalpina Kashimayari Ski Area is a nice ski area and is very popular with snow boarders and skiers alike. It has good beginners' runs as well as more challenging slopes which tend to get very mogully. There are 10 lifts and great views down onto Lake Aoki. Night skiing is popular here due to its proximity to Omachi, and many of the good runs are open. Kashimayari has a hi-tech lift pass system whereby you pay an extra ¥1000 for your pass which is refunded to you when you return the metallic card at the end of the day. This ski area links up with Aokiko Ski Area and Sunalpina Sanosaka Ski Area, but it is apparently quite difficult to get back to Kashimayari if you ski over to Sanosaka.

    • Sunalpina Sanosaka is a small but pretty ski area. It has 7 lifts and some nice long and wide runs down to the bottom, making it an excellent resort for beginners. There is a slalom course with poles for budding Alberto Tombas. Half-day passes, night skiing and sunrise skiing are available here.

    • The next station along is the Yanabaskijomae Station, literally "in front of the Yanaba Ski Area" – and you can just step off the platform and straight onto the ski slope. It couldn't be easier. Yanaba is a really nice little ski area which is extremely popular with snow boarders – in fact, snow boarders are positively encouraged and often outnumber skiers here. There is a snowboard rental shop and snowboard school, too. Yanaba sits at a low elevation, so the season doesn't last as long as in other resorts. It opens in mid-December and closes at the end of March. Yanaba has 6 chair lifts, and most runs are best suited to beginner and intermediate skiers. However, the top part of Yanaba is very steep, so if you are a beginner, get off at the halfway chair lift stop if you don't fancy a broken neck. Yanaba is also one of the most popular areas for night skiing.

    • Goryu Tomi is a large ski area more suited to intermediate and advanced skiers – although there are some nice, gentle slopes for beginners, too. It has one gondola lift and 14 chair lifts (including quads and triples). This ski area tends to get quite crowded and the steeper slopes are sometimes littered with people who have no business being there – but because of the number of runs, lift queues aren't too bad. There is a wicked steep and bumpy run called "the Champion Course" for the suicidal amongst you, and there are plenty of other steep and mogul runs, too. Snowboards are not allowed here. Cross-country skiing is available.

    • Hakuba 47 is a couple of kilometers further on. A relatively new ski area only about 4 years old, it derives its name not from the number of lifts or runs it has, but from the fact that its facilities are open 4 seasons a year, 7 days a week. Hakuba 47 has one gondola lift and 4 other lifts, and there are several routes down from each lift including some nice long and easy panoramic runs. From the top of Hakuba 47 you can ski down into Goryu Toomi ski area, but the 2 lift passes are not interchangeable, so if you do stray over, you'll have to pay to get back to Hakuba 47.

      Goryu Toomi and Hakuba 47 are more difficult to reach by train. From Iimori Station, it's a good 30-minute walk to Goryu Toomi Ski Area and although there are shuttle buses from the station to Hakuba 47, they only leave very early in the morning- i.e. if you arrive after 9 a.m. at Iimori Station, you may already have missed the last bus up to Hakuba 47.

    • Hakuba Happoone is an enormous ski area which offers truly excellent skiing. Most of its runs are fairly steep and sometimes tricky, so it's better suited to intermediate and advanced skiers. Happo is very high up so the skiing, and snow conditions are good even late in the season. Hop on the Adam gondola at the bottom and it'll whisk you up near the top. Take a chair lift to the very top and from there you have a plethora of runs to choose from. The views are incredible from up here, and rumor has it that on a clear day you can see Mt. Fuji! There are 32 other lifts besides the gondola: 3 quads, 4 triples and 25 pair lifts. Skiing all of Happo in one day takes some doing. The infamous "rabbit" mogul course is at Happo apparently known to skiers throughout Japan. Happo's main drawback is the crowds. Because it's so well-known and is one of the best ski areas in Nagano, it attracts a lot of people. Be prepared for crowds on the lifts and slopes.

      From Hakuba Station, there are frequent shuttles to Happoone Ski Area, although on weekends it's often quicker to just walk up there (takes about 30 minutes) because the traffic is just so awful. If there are 4 of you, it's often convenient to take a taxi. Taxis from Hakuba to Iwatake ski area will cost you around ¥1500.

    • Hakuba Iwatake is just up the road from Happo. This is a great ski area with loads of interesting runs and plenty of off-piste possibilities, if you can avoid the ski patrols! Again, this resort is better for intermediate and advanced skiers as some of the moguls here are enormous! Iwatake has one gondola lift that takes you straight to the top, and from there you can ski down the back of the mountain. However, if it's windy, then the gondola may close, in which case skiing here can be hell, as queues for the other lifts which take you to the top are enormous. If the gondola does close, don't ski right back to the bottom until the end of the day; otherwise you'll waste valuable skiing time standing in line for a chair lift. Iwatake has 19 lifts and a wide assortment of runs. You pay ¥500 extra for your ski pass, which is then refunded to you when you return your pass at the end of the day.

    • Norikura apparently keeps its snow longer than many other Nagano Prefecture ski areas, and it always seems to be snowing there! A Norikura pass also gives you access to the neighboring Cortina Kokusai ski area. You'll know you're in Cortina when you reach an enormous, grotesque, mock-baroque German type hotel! Norikura is good for all levels of skiing, and there are plenty of runs for beginners to practice on as well as steep, narrow and bumpy ones for the more experienced to tackle. About 25 chair lifts, including several quads and triples.

      From Minami-Otari Station buses go up to Norikura Ski Area and Cortina Kokusai Ski Areas. Look for buses which are heading for the Alps Hotel – it takes about 20 minutes to get there.



LINKS & RESOURCES

Use the following sites to learn more about Japan, what it offers to travelers, and how to plan your trip.

  • 2002 FIFA World Cup for Visitors to Japan
    Need we say more? The world's biggest sporting event is held in Japan this summer, so get down there!

  • Tokyo Hotels
    Your trip will most likely have you spending time in Tokyo, the capital and main city. The above link can help you learn about and arrange hotel accommodation before you get there.

  • Japanese Culture - A Primer
    If you want to know about ninjas and anime, look elsewhere. But if you want a perspective on the Japanese and their views on life, manners, business, "outsiders", etc., this the right place.

  • Japan National Tourist Organization
    Official tourism site for location and cultural info.


FROM THE BOOKSHELF | JAPAN

by Jennifer Leo, www.JenLeo.com

Whether your trip to Japan is next week or still in dream mode, here is a list of books that will enhance your knowledge of the country. Below you'll find practical guidebooks packed with valuable information on where to stay and what to do, books dedicated to the history and culture of Japan, and experiential guides that will give you an intimate look at the adventures of those who've traveled before you.

I encourage you to support your local independent bookstore searchable by city, zip code, and country on Bookweb.org. For your convenience, the books are also available right here on BootsnAll through Amazon.com.

Recommendations:

Don George, Global Travel Editor for Lonely Planet Publications, and co-editor of Travelers' Tales Japan recommends the following three books:

Lee Azus, owner of Get Lost Books in San Francisco recommends:

Traditional Guidebooks:

Travel Literature/ Non-Traditional guidebooks:

For additional reading lists on Japan, visit:

Jennifer Leo has co-edited and written for books published by Travelers' Tales, Lonely Planet, and Globe-Pequot. Her full list of works, services, and speaking venues can be found at www.JenLeo.com


WRITE AN ARTICLE

If you have a story of your own that you would like to submit on Japan, have a look at BootsnAll's Writer's Guidelines:

http://writers.BootsnAll.com

And then send it along. We're always looking for new content and new perspectives, and we hope to get yours soon.

TELL A FRIEND

If you feel that BootsnAll.com is a valuable resource, or that others might think so, please tell your friends about us. As many of you know, we respond personally to every email we receive in an ongoing effort to build a true traveller's community. Many have responded positively.

If you have comments both positive and constructive, we would love to hear them. Tell us what we have done well and how we can improve. We would appreciate it greatly.

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