Quirky Fact

Patagonia
This word DOES NOT refer to that incredibly expensive brand of outdoor clothing made and sold by that old French guy living high on the hog in a California Beach mansion.

Linguistically speaking, the word: "Pa-ta-go-nia" refers to a coinage made by the explorer Ferdinando de Magallanes, and means, "Land of the big footed peoples". It is thought that he was referring to the Tehuelche Indians of the region, that tended to be enormous in stature.

Language
Spanish is the native tongue here, but beware...this is not the same Spanish we learned in High School....or from the famous "501 Spanish Verbs" manifesto. This is Argentine Castellano, most like what is spoken in Spain. In all reality, there is NO such language called Spanish, this is merely a generic term.

Money
Pesos or US dollars (in use here since 1989), Visa, Mastercard, and Amex are accepted as well. Cigarettes have also been known to work as a local currency in the mountain refuges.

Getting Here
Almost all flights to Argentina run through Miami and end in Buenos Aires, so regardless of your final destination...plan on spending a few days in BA to enjoy all the hot spots it has to offer (more detail in our monthly accounts).

Transportation
Argentina means: BUSES! So be prepared for LONG journeys as you make your way from one tourist phenomena to another. Also, don't forget to purchase a felt-tip marker to redraw the crack in your fanny to replace what you lost on these famous 20 hour plus rides.
Note: these buses, however, are in fact often much more luxuriant than flying business class on an airplane. Also, this is truly a great way to really SEE the country, town by town and get to know some of the local residents (and get the real scoop, not tourist agency B.S.).

Good Web Links:
If you are planning to travel to Argentina, visit Argentina's tourist bureau,

Lonely Planet,

For news in English try :
Buenos Aires Herald

Or if you are lucky enough to speak Castellano:
Clarin

A little about my BOOTS:

Argentina is a country famous for leathergoods, and notwithstanding are El Resero boots, with 80 years experience constructing these hand made specimens. These boots are so good, that not even the Argentine Special Forces have them.. In fact, I even received compliments (and envy) from the Army Mountain Regiment soldiers, who also do not have them.

Most owners claim to get more 20 years usage from them. (Think of the savings $$$ !!!) Although up front, your initial outlay is $220.00.

A little about us
Me (Erin Wood)

I was born into an American military family, and as a young Air Force brat I developed an insatiable lust for travel. One day last November, after being laid off from my incredibly crazed job in the semiconductor industry, I bought a plane ticket to vacation for a month in Argentina.

Around my 3rd day, I decided that 13 years living in Los Angeles was more than sufficient, and I chucked my business suits, briefcase and pantyhose and decided not to return to the US of A.

This decision infuriated my family, so I was sure that I had made another great decision.

Now I live in San Martin de los Andes, a small town of less than 30,000 people, located in Patagonia, in the Neuquen province here in Argentina. And yes, of course I live in the Andes!!! Luckily, I am not a "Gringa" alone, and now cohabitate with my even more fascinating Buenos Aires born, Argentinian mountain "mule" Alejo.........

Alejo recently returned from living in what he calls "The First World", which in his case was Canada, only to fall in love with Patagonia and decide to live back here in his homeland.

His Boots: the tough and durable Caterpillar by Wolverine..the "Montana" model

Anyhow, we both made our escape from the big city and we are living in peace and tranquility, under blue skies, underneath an old expired Mesazoic age glaciar moraine, about 50 km from Volcano Lanin.

If you planning to travel to Patagonia, feel free to drop us an email or come spend the night in our home; we have a killer view and 5 bedrooms!!!!!

Patagonia, a region that conjures up images of vast expanses of open, grassy pampas, and Gauchos herding cattle and sheep. While in fact these effigies can be found, this region is rich with locations and experiences you surely will not want to miss if you make your way here to the other side of the world.

Patagonia, is a region that is in fact shared by both Argentina and Chile, but basically refers to all the land mass south of the Rio Colorado and ranges along the Andes Cordillera (mountain chain) all the way down to Tierra del Fuego. There are more than 20 National Parks here in Argentina and most of them fall in the Patagonia zone.

Most travelers who journey to Argentina end up taking one of the expensive Organized bus tours, that afford little opportunity to absorb the wildlife, trees, and flowers that are best appreciated by HIKING in your own two personal BOOTS!!!!!

One of the most geographically diverse regions of Patagonia is known as the "Lakes District" area. Located along the Andes, this zone is also referred to as the Switzerland of Argentina. The architecture is Teutonic or Alpine, and constructed of native alerce wood. This area also developed in an unusual fashion, not typical to other Argentinian towns which were primarily descended from Spaniard or Native Indians habitation.

Most of the principle towns in the Lakes District were founded by Italian, Swiss, Welsh and Italian immigrants. This helps explain the large number of Chocolate factories, wineries and fondue restaurants in the area.

In this month's submission, I would like to offer some details about Bariloche and Nahuel Huapi National Park, where the city is located.

Many travelers to Patagonia completely miss this area, heading straight south to Argentina's famous Perito Moreno glacier.

Bariloche and the National Park are located on the shores of Nahuel Huapi or "Lake of the Tiger", as it was named by the local Mapuche Indians centuries back.

There are incredible hikes to be had in this area, carrying you across soaring Andean mountain peaks, where you will see condors soaring above, and maybe the occasional breakage of an enormous block of glacier ice. Keep in mind that seasons in the Southern Hemisphere are reversed. The best time to hike is December, January and February, which is summer in South America.

Most of these trails are accessed by starting in Bariloche as a home base. Hiking, mountain biking, fishing, white water rafting, horse back riding and even scuba diving are on the short list of activities that can be had here.

STEP ONE.........
Don't waste time or money on crappy travel guides full of out dated info......march straight over to Casa Raul book shop and purchase the Patagonia Welcome guide book, which is written in English and CASTELLANO. It will run you about $12. This has all the local maps, transport info, restaurant guides, and even a few post cards in the back pages!!!

A great hotel to stay in is Hotel Sol Bariloche, which at $22 a day includes a continental breakfast, a lake front room, and a huge sumptuous dinner. This in reality ends up being a way better deal than the local youth hostels or backpacker albergues, where you have to purchase and cook your own food, or eat out in the often over priced tourist trap restaurants. Also, you get a room with a key, and the peace of mind that all of your belongings will be safe from wandering fingers.

There are numerous places to grab a beer, and picadas (the Argentinian word for assorted snack type finger foods). But our favorite is the outdoor beer garden of the Marmite restaurant located on Mitre boulevard. You can sit down under the Heineken umbrella relax, and enjoy a Quilmes beer, the most popular brand in Argentina. Be sure to say "hola" to Jose the waiter , and let him know I sent you there....he will treat you great. He also can throw together a special salad chock full of walnuts, olives, cheeses, tomatoes etc.

If you are in the mood to have some of Argentina's world famous red meat, try the La Vizchaca restaurant and experience your first Parilla or Argentinian style barbeque.

A DAY TRIP NOT TO BE MISSED.............
While you are in Bariloche you want to be sure to shell out the $33 fare to grab the boat and head across Nahueal Huapi Lake to Isla Victoria and a small National Park called...Parque Nacional de Arrayanes. This park was created in the 1980s to protect the rare Arrayan tree species, that grows no where else in the world. Local historians tell us that a group of traveling Walt Disney producers were inspired to recreate this magical forest in the Bambi movie from the 50's.

LOCAL LEGENDS..............
Nahuel Huapi lake is extremely deep...in fact ,so profound that it has never been accurately measured. Following in the tradition of Loch Ness, this lake also is rumoured to be inhabited by a mysterious creature, Nahuelito. One of the waiters at Hotel Sol says he has seen it twice in his lifetime!!!

Other local highlights........
Be sure to take some time out to do some shopping while in Bariloche. Try not to laugh when you see the prices, and be sure to shop with a friend who can catch you when faint at the laughable prices.

The boots, purses, and jackets are maybe three times less than you would expect to pay for a similar type and quality item in the USA. Of course, these goods are unique to Argentina, so you had better stock up. Jackets and boots made of Carpincho leather are luxuriant, and believe or not come from the world's largest RODENT!!!!!!!

There is also a local Feria Artesanal, where you can buy locally made handicrafts and Argentinian trinkets to bring home to your friends and foes. You will meet a lot of hippie refugee artists from Buenos Aires here.

The local Mapuche Indians also have a small shop where they sell their beautiful hand-woven ponchos, belts, sweaters and rugs. Try to save some extra cashish to spoil yourself!!!

As far as nightlife is concerned, there are two bars I like in Bariloche, but remember Argentina is a country that doesn't sleep. Discos really don't get going until midnight and stay open until 7am. The first is a multi-purpose joint called "1970's", but don't let the name scare you.....the music is contemporary and polyester is not part of the dress code.

A more local spot, Azucar, is located on the shores of the lake, has live music, and affords long romantic strolls under the stars if you climb down the stairs to the beach.

If time and budget permits, I would also recommend you grab one of the local buses for the half hour ride to the Llao-Llao hotel, which is Argentina's most famous 5 star resort. The lakeside view from the bar is gorgeous, and it is also a nice place for an afternoon stroll, or simply be lazy and drink your way through to dinner.

If you are like me and enjoy a dose of local history and culture, be sure to visit the Museo Patagonica in the town Civic Center. For $2 you will get a full overview of Argentina Indian history, military battles, and a good (stuffed) overview of the furry mammals and birds that populate this expanse.

If you are a compulsive buyer of books, up on Elflein street the Liberia Cultural has a great selection of books on local history, and picturesque additions to your coffee table book collection. If you can afford it, the photographer Aldo Sessa has published several books on Argentina that are simply to die for!!!! (but often cost upwards of $200) Or, take my recommendation, BRING YOUR OWN CAMERA!!

Lastly, a final highlight not to be missed is the incredible mix of foreign travelers in hearty hiking BOOTS that are scurrying over the trails. If you are traveling alone when you arrive in Bariloche, chances are you probably won't be by the time you leave!!!!! (Must be that fresh air up on the glaciers)

Happy hiking from beautiful Patagonia. And remember, this is still almost virgin land. Unlike traveling to Yosemite National Park, you DO NOT need a reservation one year in advance!!!!!!!

Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our South America Insiders page.