Irish writer J. M. Synge - of "The Playboy of the Western World," "Riders to the Sea" and "The Aran Islands" fame - lived here, you can still visit his old home, as well as walk up to "Synge's Chair." The most remote of the three, Inishmaan is ideal for a day's hiking, as it would not be difficult to wander all day, and not see another person. Like Inisheer, Inishmaan has its own Aran Way walk, which is 5 miles, or 8 km.

Inishmaan is most accessible during the summer, when the inter-island services run. All ferries to and from Rossaveel stop at Inishmaan; a student return costs a fiver. Ask the ferry crew for times.

For more information and perspectives on Inishmaan, check out the following links:

July 5th
Another day of sunshine, yet there I was with a ticket for that afternoon's ferry. A phone call later, that was changed: with work at noon on Thursday, the early-morning service would have me in Galway at 11 a.m. - perfect.

I renewed my bed at the hostel, decided to go to Inishmaan for the day, and went to figure out ferry times. Even during high season there aren't many ferries to Inishmaan, and the next one wouldn't be until four. I didn't want to re-explore Inisheer, so with so much time to spare, I had the day to kick about and be lazy. Which I did. Expertly.

Earlier I met Brigid, a Canadian who had been living on Inisheer for the past couple of months. She came over to Inishmaan with me, and though she'd only been once - "And I only got as far as the pub" - showed me around. Even with the pub behind us, we managed okay.

I would love to go on about how Inishmaan is the least tourist-tainted of the three islands (which it is). I would love to describe the drystone walls, the small stone houses, the fuchsia and flowers, the feeling of calm and quiet. I would love to wax poetically and fancifully about the island's beauty, especially while looking down, from halfway up the hill, over the sand and yellow grass of the flat expanses at the coast on the northern side of the island. I'd love to go into all of this, but frankly, Inishmaan is so damn steep that just writing about it leaves me a bit winded. The physically fit traveler will be the most appreciative of the Middle Island.

Nonetheless, Brigid and I pressed on - "You never said anything about the island being diagonal!" "Well, I told you, I only got as far as the pub!" - to the cliffs at the western side. The cliffs themselves aren't particularly cliffy, but if you're willing to walk over all the rocks, and then do a bit of climbing down, you can still sit at the edge of them and relax to the view of Inishmor and the Atlantic. Expect solitude; out here, there won't be anything else but seabirds.

Next we walked to Dún Fearbhaí, a massive ring fort on top of the island's central hill, from which you can look out over all of Inishmaan. In addition to the stone walls that section each island into haphazard grids, the islanders also used their surplus of rocks to build ring forts, which date back to pre-Christian times and are one of the Arans' claims to fame. The purpose of these forts - as defensive structures, or as venues for ceremonies and recreation (such as coronations or dances) - is still debated.

All that remains of the internal structures are some stacked rocks, in circles or half-squares, but the ring itself, about a yard and a half thick, is fully intact. The grass was high inside the ring, and the wildflowers were in bloom. There was a small, occasional breeze, and Brigid and I lazed about, watching clouds. All was quiet.

We spent most of the afternoon hanging around Dún Fearbhaí, but eventually trudged back down the hills to the pier for the return ferry. Back on Inisheer, Brigid went to see her parents, who had arrived on an earlier ferry. I returned to the hostel to make dinner, and while in the kitchen became very glad that I had decided to stay over an extra day.

Two girls were in the kitchen, and we got to talking; Emily and Anne, as it turns out, are from Seattle, Washington, and Portland, Oregon, respectively. Why was this so great for me? Well, not only were they brilliant people, but as I will be moving to Oregon once I return to the U.S., I'd been hoping to meet someone from Portland, so that if I moved there I would already know at least one person in-town. I just never would have guessed that I would meet such a person on a godforsaken island in the middle of Galway Bay - but such is life.

Since it was my last night, I originally had thought about going to the pub, but soon forgot about it. The best craic on the island, as far as I was concerned, was the zany chat between the three of us (there are few better things in life, than finding people who are as off their heads as I am).

Eventually, I went to bed, tired, but glad I'd changed my ticket. I'd seen Inishmaan, and whenever I am on the Arans again, will have to spend at least a full day there, hiking and enjoying the solitude. I'd also made new friends (if you're reading this, girls, I hope all is well, and I can't wait to see you in the Northwest!). Soon I'd be back in Galway, but no matter. The trip wasn't over yet, and I went to bed smiling.

Questions?
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