Greetings all from Chiang Mai, which is really about as far North in Thailand you want to get at the moment. Any further and you're likely to get caught in some drug smuggling action, which is not a good thing, that's for sure. I've been here now for two days and am liking it. Much more calm than Bangkok, and plan to stay for at least another five days, for mostly health reasons that I'll get into later.

I'll start back in Bangkok, however. I ended up staying five nights in the city and by the end was really enjoying myself. I found the city easy to get around in, the mass transit systems are very good, especially along the river. And if you ever get lost, just grab a taxi. A trip across the city in an air conditioned cab will put you back about one English Pound.

My last few days in Bangkok were eventful. I had dinner with my friends Bjorn (a Danish expat) and his wife Soyoung, an American expat. It was a good time, and nice to sit down and have a good conversation. They have graciously invited me to stay at their home when I return to Bangkok and I might take them up on it. They have running hot water (all guesthouses here only have cold water), a pool and even a maid or two! Heaven.

My last night in Bangkok was spent in Patpong, which is the red light district in town. Bangkok is legendary for its prostitutes and general seediness and I can see why. Door upon door of clubs open so that you can see the very scantily clad Thai girls on stage dancing in their bikinis. Touts descend on you from all sides wanting your business whether male or female.

I was in Patpong with Kris, a guy from Ottawa who had spent the last year in Japan as a school teacher. His eyes were so wide. I left him fairly early in the night to retire as I was leaving the next day. He ended up meeting one of his old friends and they went to a 'show'. The next day he asked if I thought the girls on stage were hookers. Ahhhh, duh.

Patpong left me with an overwhelming sense of depression. The girls looked drugged up and there was no life in their eyes. I felt sorry for them more than anything else. They probably make a pittance dancing on stage, and to make enough cash to survive probably have to do some things on the side. Shame.

On to Ayuthaya then the next day. Ayuthaya is situated about 90 km North of Bangkok and used to be the capital of the country. It's a small city compared to Bangkok and there's lots of ruined Wats (Temples) to explore. My first night there I walked around the city just taking it in. I walked into a Wat where a ceremony was taking place, I think like their Sunday worship. Not wanting to offend, I backed off and walked through the rest of the complex, where I ran slap dab into a funeral. Oops. The funeral wasn't taking place at that exact time, but the coffin was up and there were flowers everywhere. The coffin was up on a dais, surrounded by candles and incense and the like. There were three people around, an older lady and what I took to be her two grandkids, a teenage girl and guy. I apologised and started to leave when they told me to come in and have a seat. They offered me a glass of coke and we chatted.

The people of Thailand have been consistently wonderful. They will help you when you aren't sure, and the young girls love to walk up and practice their English. They are always impressed when they find out I'm travelling alone (which is such an easy feat here compared to Egypt). I have not felt threatened once, and even the tuk-tuk drivers, touting for business, are always polite and leave you alone after a quick hit. It's nice.

I was in Ayuthaya for two nights, one night spent having a long chat with a teacher from Iroquois Falls, Ontario who took a year off to travel. Then it was time to leave. I got on a train on Tuesday morning for the 12½ hour train ride to Chiang Mai. I got to see a lot of the countryside, which was nice, but I was travelling in 2nd class, which is NOT air conditioned, so it was hot and sticky and long. The last part of the trip is through very dense jungle, and the views were spectacular. Met a Yank on board who was heading to Chang Mai himself so I was able to chat in English for a while, which is a treat these days.

I'm holed up in a Guest House in Chiang Mai called Eagle. It's a nice place, run by a Thai man and his farang (foreign) wife. They offer treks into the wilderness to see the Hill tribes, of which there are many. I don't think I'll be going on a trek, my legs won't be able to take it, but I'll stay here in Chiang Mai for at least another five days. Thailand is very similar to many other places, especially in Europe, where you have to see this Wat or this Museum. They all look old and impressive to me, but some are more so than others. So I've promised myself to slow down and not get too upset in missing seeing some things. In the long run, it won't make all that much difference.

You have to take your time here and not push since the weather will take a lot out of you. It's always too hot and too humid, and you have to walk slowly and drink lots of water to get through the day. I take frequent breaks and although it's a multinational chain, which I would prefer to not go to, I've begun to love the sight of a 7-11. A slurpee is the best way to cool down here.

I am being eaten alive by mosquitoes, which worries me greatly. Malaria is not a big threat here in Chiang Mai, but is a serious one in Laos, which is where I'll be headed to next hopefully. I'm covered all the time in DEET but the little buggers still go for me. If it keeps up, I might have to change my plans and not go to Laos, but I'll see how it goes in the next few days.

As well, I have a nasty chest cough that won't go away. I'm worried about Bronchitis, as I think I got it from a girl from Holland who was cutting her trip short to go home because of her cough. I won't do that, but I might return to Bangkok earlier than expected to go to a Western doctor. I had Bronchitis earlier in the year and am worried of going through it again. Having Bjorn and Soyoung there makes me feel so much better, knowing they can help. All in all, however, I feel very good. I'm taking it easy, sleeping a lot and reading a lot, and I'm enjoying myself. With all the medication I'm taking (malaria pills, antihistamine, etc) I feel like a Pez dispenser.

My concentration for reading has come back. Before I left I wasn't able to concentrate as I was so excited to leave. Now, however, I'm devouring books. Finished the Poisonwood Bible, which everyone was reading when I left, and I can see why. What an amazing book. I'm now on a book called Falling Leaves, which is a story of an unwanted Chinese girl and how she grew up unloved. Amazing stuff, both highly recommended. Books are valuable when you're on the road, and we trade them like gold.

I was in the Czech Republic when I found out that Pierre Trudeau died. I was surprised how much it affected me. Love him or hate him, he was an icon and a great man. Long live his ideas.

That's all folks. My next dispatch will be from either Nong Khai as I head into Laos, or else from Bangkok before I go into Cambodia.