April 2003
Here we are on the start of the painters pilgrimage. Rome is on our first stop. In ancient times they said all roads lead to Rome. It is just the same today, with hundreds of thousands of new souls on various pilgrimages coming to the holy city every day of the year. We saw groups from South America clad in their colourful finery complete with drums and tassels heading for St Peters Basillica.

The Metro of Rome swallows and spits out these multifarious 'odd- bod' travellers from around the globe at many locations all over the metropolis. The Rome metro is like the X factor – two main lines cross at the Termini. A day pass costs 3 Euro, and you can ride it all day. Four stations east on Line A (yellow). We get out at 'Spagna' and exit at the Spanish Steps with a thousand others. Immediately above the steps one gets a panoramic southern view over Rome, and then a long stroll down via Corso to take in the sights of the Pantheon ( the largest dome ever constructed and built in the 1st century) and The Trevi Fountain , where coins are thrown to guarantee a safe return to the eternal city.

It was then on Metro Line A to San Pietro station to climb the steep steps to the church of San Pietro and to marvel at the marble statue of Moses created by Michelangelo, titan among men of the Renaissance.

Moses was one of his last works. The aging master was heard to implore the creation in marble to speak to him, being held back from striking it with his mallet in rage at its non-compliance. Thank god for humankind that he was thwarted from destruction of such a noble feat, as Moses is an imposing, virile statue that evokes awe from the least religious person (namely me).

On pouring out of the resting place of Moses into the warm spring sunlight, we exit to the left and saunter down the hill until the Colosseum comes into view; immense and imposing below our high vantage point. As one gets closer and looks up, there are blocks of travetine, weighing tonnes yet balanced precariously eight stories high. I cannot help but feel it is a depraved place; it still stands as a mute testament in stone to a time when human combat, sacrifice and torture were Saturday's entertainment. We exit to Closseo station (line B blue) to La Piramide and then bus it to Porta Portese to the large Sunday Market on the banks of the Tiber River (great for cheap clothing).

There are endless minor works of art on display in the streets of Rome and in the myriad of churches. However the glittering prizes of two millenia and beyond are to be found within the Vatican museums aside Saint Peters. The hall of maps is my favourite gallery, and the ceiling is superb in its detail. The walls are covered with early maps of the Roman Empire and regions of Italy, painted in the style of those old sea maps with scrolls, beautiful serif lettering, and even sea monsters on some of the best.

To my mind Michelangelo stands supreme as the star in the pantheon of artists held within these walls. It is he who painted the immense ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, and the "Last Judgement" on the front wall panel as well as the ceiling cornice panels. His statue of Moses mentioned before reveals a man skilled in stone carving as well as painting, and he also tried his hand at designing buildings and writing poetry. Only Leonardo da Vinci matches him for the title of the complete 'Renaissance man'. Of course my wife – the art teacher – weighs in now with her claims on Raphael, whose works were mostly obscured due to restoration of the Papacy-Raphael rooms during our visit, which was timed to be allowed in free (free entry on the last Sunday of the month). She also mentions several others who I now forget. Caravaggio and of course Botticelli is mentioned, and I will cover this painter and his mystical paintings – my favourites – when I get to Florence. Oh Flora and Venus, I long to see you again, floating by with clear eyes dreamy- wistful...

Back to reality!

We stayed at Vesta Apartments near Tibertina Station, booked through BootsnAll. Only €42 a night for a double in a very clean, large double room and good shared bathroom (cheap for Rome). A bit noisy in the morning on a busy main drag, so ask for ear plugs from your airline to help out on the ear, but one needs to get up early and get out to take in all that Rome offers.

Vesta is located 150 metres up the hill to the right of the station east exit (the one that does not exit to the bus station). Look for the water tower along the rail line and it is the four-storey red brick building just beyond. The manager got our 'golden roo' pin award for help and support. At Tibertina station there is a small supermarket for essential food supplies, especially yogurt for breakfast and fresh bread and cheese for the day's trekking .

Trains run through Tibertina for the city Metro, and for cities beyond, including a direct connection to the airport – in all a perfect location for getting into the city and beyond, at prices not found in Rome except in hostels.

Qantas sent my luggage to Germany and I was 40 hours without any 'clobber' (Aussie for clothes and kit), but that's another story I am holding back on for fear of a legal writ. However, a lack of change of clothes can't stop an Aussie trekking the hills of Rome for days when impassioned in the pursuit of art and driven by an art teacher, but as my wife says disparagingly, "Stay downwind of me and use the rose water in each church you visit! I always carry my toiletries and spare clothes in my on-board pack – you should do the same in the future!"

Gee! Thanks for the helpful advice after the fact!

Caio for now – until we meet again in Florence.

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