CAMPO GRANDE to THE PANTANAL, BRAZIL - 17 October, 2002
The group heading to the Pantanal was made up of Daniel from the USA, Sheena from Ireland, Mark and Florein from The Netherlands, Francisca from Argentina, Sherry from Canada and Trisha, (sorry, indulge me for a moment... for I had always wanted to do what the Miss Universe contestants do all the time) from the beautiful tropical island of S-I-N-G-A-P-O-R-E!!

It was a long drive to the camp-site today. During this time, we saw a great number of birds, caymans, capybaras. It was fantastic.

The camp-site was one well-organised place. We would sleep in hammocks slung under a structure, lined with mosquito nets. There were flush-toilets and showers available. We could relax by the fireplace, a bar or at the dining tables. When meals were served, they would sound the gong. Great place!

THE PANTANAL, BRAZIL - 18 October, 2002
At around 5am, the howler monkeys started howling. Actually, it was like a siren with the sound of a growl. The growling sound grew in crescendos and diminished in descendos and went on and on, really quite like a siren. I was half-asleep and half-awake when I heard it. When I woke up, I was not even sure what I had heard.

We went for treks early in the morning and in the late evening to spot wildlife. We saw loads of birds like spoonbills, screamers, hawks, jabiru storks, etc..., cabybaras, coatis, howler monkeys, etc... While it was hot and tiring, I treasured it very much as we had seen quite a lot of animals today.

The true nature of Sherry started to emerge too. She whined on and on about the mud, about not being able to see the birds, about bugs, about everything. While we were firstly amused by how naive she was, for what did she expect out of a Pantanal trip, soon, her negative energy and continuous complaints really got on all our nerves.

THE PANTANAL, BRAZIL - 19 October, 2002
We were driven to the next campsite today. This was simply a tree with eight hammocks tied to the branches. What an amazing tree! Its luscious foliage provided excellent and very welcoming shade for us. (The temperature here at the Pantanal reached 40°C+.) And that was not all...

There was a river next to it that had caymans (or alligators). My guide Gabriel said he had never seen them bite anyone so we all went in furtively. It was really hot. We were desperate to cool down.

We could spot about five or six caymans around. Some were basking in the sun, some had surfaced a notch above the water. When one of us tried to go near them, they would disappear back into the water beneath silently. We could not see what was around us as the water was black, this being 'Rio Negro' (Black River) after all. It was a tad spooky to think that in one wrong move, we might step on its snout or something.

That night, when we shone our torch along the river, gosh... there were like 30 pairs of eyes up and down the immediate area, being reflected back at us! And we had thought there were just five or six!!

We headed to a nearby lake and fished for piranhas for our lunch. At first, we simply and cluelessly donated our bait to these cunning fish. Later, we got the hang of it and managed to reel in some juicy ones every five minutes or so. Yeah, the lake was teeming with piranhas.

Once, my piranha dropped into the boat and started dancing around with the ferocious teeth chattering away. We screamed our heads off. I lifted my legs away from the boat and let them hang out of the boat to avoid that piranha. Gabriel stepped on the side of the boat to try and walk over to my section to catch it. The boat tipped to the side and plunged my entire two feet into the lake. Ah!! The piranhas in the lake almost got a taste of Chinese food...

The piranhas were brought back to the campsite and gutted. The caymans came to right by our feet when they smelled the piranhas. Treading on dangerous ground there... The cook fried the piranhas for lunch. Gosh, they tasted excellent! They were surprisingly meaty. One of the best meals I had had in Brazil!

Sherry stared at her one piece of piranha and left the whole thing there, hissing, "God... I CAN'T EAT THIS STUFF..."

As for our evening trek, Sherry refused to go. I guess after she realised the jaguar and the giant ant-eater would not be delivered to her on a platter, and that she needed to put in effort to see some wildlife, she started to give up on the Pantanal trip. What a shame this was her attitude.

Gabriel said he would try to catch an armadillo for us. Sherry asked if he would bring it back to the camp-site. I looked up and ALMOST said, "Why? You want to cook the armadillo too?"

Later, Gabriel actually caught an armadillo for us!

Its colour blended in perfectly with the background of dried grass colour. How Gabriel saw it from 150 metres was beyond us. He crept gingerly across the grass, from the down-wind. At the final moment, he ran and threw himself on the ground and held up an armadillo. Just like that!

Despite the lack of mosquito nets here, I wanted to sleep in the hammock instead of a tent, to be closer to nature. I was dutifully devoured by them throughout the night.

Much later, strong winds came and blew them all away. It felt like the coming of a huge storm, like the one we experienced in Campo Grande. The wind howled and howled. The hammocks rocked ferociously from side to side. I braced myself for the first sign of pelting torrential rain. Moments like these seized me with a strange mix of anxiety and exhilaration as I knew I was absolutely vulnerable to the elements of nature and yet, I wanted to be here to witness it. But I was rocked to sleep instead. No rain. It was magic.

THE PANTANAL, BRAZIL - 20 October, 2002
More treks today. Sherry refused to go again. We spotted more obscure animals like a tamandua (tree ant-eater). And when we returned, she said we were SO LUCKY to see the armadillo and the tamandua. What the...??

We spent the rest of the day, relaxing by the river at this AMAZING TREE. While Sherry was the beacon of negative energy, Francisca was the exact opposite. She was the brightest sunshine, the beacon of positive energy, la chica loca (the crazy girl) of the group. She had a great personality.

Other groups had arrived to join us here and all of us interacted with information about trips in Bonito, Bolivia, etc... There was not much to do but sleep in the hammock, chit-chat and swim and during this afternoon, a number of us really connected with one another with our love for travelling and wildlife. It was a very enjoyable afternoon for me and a few others. Francisca got along swimmingly with almost everyone. In the river, we even tried to build a human tower. We had such great fun!!

Meanwhile, Sherry whined and whined about when we were going back to the first camp-site. Sigh... She was one sad person.

Oh, we saw an anaconda that night.

THE PANTANAL to BONITO, BRAZIL - 21 October, 2002
Francisca had slept through all the alarm-clock calls of the howler monkeys from the previous mornings. So, when I first heard it this morning, I got up from my hammock and gave her a nudge, "Listen..."

The orchestra of howler monkey calls felt surreal. It rose and fell like the sound of waves. Now and then, the exotic calls of this bird and that would play a melodious solo performance with the accompaniment of the howler monkeys in the background. The symphony was exquisite and unpredictable. My eyes remained closed as to better savour the incredible orchestral performance put up by nature. It was MAGIC!

Today, horse-riding.... I had never galloped before in my life. The horse-trek in Songpan, China was merely walking and trotting. And today, I got to experience the magic of gallop.

The first time, I was unprepared. I reached for my camera behind and touched my horse's back by mistake and it just took off. There was a herd of cows in front of us and they scattered in two thousand directions and that got my horse (and me) into further panic.

Transforming from a fast trot to a gallop was INCREDIBLE! It was as if I entered through a glass mirror and crossed into a different realm. Suddenly, the rhythm, the mood changed. The thunderous hooves were there, but you heard nothing. You stared straight ahead, but you saw nothing. The bouncing on the back of the horse was higher and rougher, but you felt nothing. You felt only exhilaration.

My feet lost my stirrups all the time so I could only hang on to my dear life with my LEFT hand holding the saddle while my right hand struggled to control the horse's rein. It was an amazing experience.

After my first try, I was hooked! It was terribly scary yet addictive. I was game for some more. It was alright if I was mentally prepared for it. But so many times, I thought to myself, "Oh no! I'm going to fall!! I'm going to fall!!" But I knew if I did fall, my situation would be worse off than if I maintained this uncomfortable situation of hanging onto the horse's saddle! It was all up there in your head.

Well, ten minutes before we reached the campsite, a lady did fall off during a gallop. Her foot was caught in the stirrups and she was dragged for a while. Argh, we thought she died!! Thank goodness, she fell off and actually got up and walked!! But she fell into shock later and could not remember anything and just cried and cried. Well, not without its danger...

After these few days at the Pantanal, we bade farewell to one another. Some of us would be going to Bonito and others to Campo Grande for their onward travels. Francisca hugged and bade farewell to us almost tearfully. She kept saying it was so difficult to say goodbye to Trisha. Oh, she was so sweet. She had been superb! I guess Latin Americans were just a lot more passionate. I promised to contact her when I got to Buenos Aires, sometime in the future...

BONITO, BRAZIL - 22 October, 2002
My whole body was aching from the gallops yesterday and I had some flesh wounds on my legs from rubbing against the saddle. I decided not to go to the river today in order not to aggravate my wounds since I always healed badly. I spent a tranquil day today, visiting caves.

The first cave was Gruta Lago Azul and it was really interesting. As we walked further and further into the cave, the water in the cave became more and more blue. It felt eerie and impossible. We could see huge rocks and fallen logs at the bottom of the lake. At first, we figured they were perhaps at a depth of 3 or 4 metres.

But when the guide said the huge rock that we were looking at was 25 metres deep and the fallen log was 12 metres deep, our minds were simply blown away. 25 metres! I tried to imagine a regular swimming pool - that is, say, 4 metres. So, this rock was 6 times deeper!! I could not imagine that EVER, as we could we could see it so clearly. Incredible.

Last evening, we had arrived at the hostel in Bonito really late in the night. Yet, the receptionist wanted us to book the tours we were interested in right away in order to make transport arrangements.

I was with Daniel from the Pantanal trip and two Israelis, Patricia and Shuki. The three of them had signed up for the Rio Prata trip today but I decided to postpone it til later. And for tomorrow, Daniel, Shuki and I signed up for the abseiling trip.

Patricia refused to do it, claiming it was too dangerous for her... she was afraid. "But you did the ARMY! It should be OK for you!!" I tried to encourage her. She simply refused.

Shuki shook his head, saying that Patricia was a disgrace to the Israeli army.

Tonight, Daniel, Shuki and I had to go to the abseiling company to learn and practise how to go up and down on the rope. When we were done, Shuki decided to pull out of the trip. He now claimed he was afraid. We were practising at perhaps 10 metres just now and he had problems already. So, 72 metres would be too much for him. Poor dear.

Daniel and I looked at each other and said "So, the Israeli army pulled out, huh? It is left to us mere peasants now..."

BONITO, BRAZIL - 23 October, 2002
And Bonito just got better thereafter...

Daniel and I were tethered together and went down slowly. Along the 72 metres to the bottom of the cave, we were surrounded by wonderful stalactites. At the bottom was a subterranean lake. There was a huge hole which let in natural light so all was not totally dark.

We finally reached the bottom. It was eerily silent and we basked in the dim light, enjoying the splendid sights around us. We got on a boat and the (very cute) guide Nilton paddled around explaining in Portuguese and pidgin English about the structures.

I had always been enchanted by cave structures. One thing unique here was that because the lake contained calcium, it actually formed structures IN the lake, that grew from the bottom of the lake, 1 mm a year. This kind of structure was different from those stalagmites that one saw at the bottom of other caves formed from the dripping of water from the top stalactites.

I could not really see the bottom structures properly until we donned the snorkel gear and our wetsuits and plunged in. Then, the most amazing sight unfolded below us.

The lake was ssssoooo deep we could not see the bottom. It was just black after a while. The structures appeared to spring out from nowhere. They were cone-shaped, sometimes standing alone, sometimes in pairs or more, some small, some had reached the top of the lake and could only grow sideways now.

As we were floating at the top of the lake, it felt as if we were floating through space. All was quiet around us. We really could not see the bottom. If a person was afraid of heights and managed to overcome his fear and did the abseil, I seriously suspected he would have another panic attack here floating on top of this very deep lake.

As I moved around, I saw more and more such curious cones emerging from the blackness down below and standing stubbornly in silence. It really felt like being in outer-space. I had never, never, never, ever seen such wonders and felt so eerie and yet strangely exhilarated about them. It was like being in a different world. Words did no justice. It was too amazing!

BONITO, BRAZIL - 23 October, 2002
The next day, I joined the river-snorkelling trip at Rio Prata. Yes, a river! Usually, one goes snorkeling in the sea, so this was especially different.

The river was so crystal clear, one could see up to 50 metres away. It was not too deep and there was a current which carried you along.

As I was small, I floated faster and kept crashing into the people in front. I had to back-paddle or swim in circles or grab onto tree trunks in order to let them go further ahead first. The fish were just right next to us, some up to 1 metre or so big. It was superbly crystal clear, again I felt like I was floating in the sky and seeing all these wonderful fish around me.

At times where the current got really strong, I put my arms straight by my side and torpedoed through the river, twisting here and there to avoid the fallen tree trunks and uneven ground. Precioso!! We even saw shoals of maybe 80 huge black fish and chased them a little.

Underground springs emerged from the bottom of the sand and we could see huge circles of bubbling sand as the spring burst into the river. Nature is gorgeous!! I had never felt so uplifted in my life!

BONITO to FOZ DO IGUAGU, BRAZIL - 25 October, 2002
Spent the entire day on buses, making a trip to Campo Grande and then, changing to another one to Foz Do Iguacu.

FOZ DO IGUAGU, BRAZIL - 26 October, 2002
Thoroughly exhausted from the bus-rides yesterday, I slept way until afternoon.

I now realised I might have too much Brazilian reais with me. So, I did a desperate last-minute shopping spree at Foz.

Not the best time for it, as it was Saturday and many shops were closed. Here at the border, some sales assistant started to speak to me in Spanish already. For sure, I knew Spanish better than Portuguese but I was so confused, wondering if that was a Spanish word or yet another Portuguese word I did not know.

I was offered a menu at a cafe. As I pored over it, the lady came again and asked if I preferred the Spanish menu. "Oh, obrigada... Esta mejor." (Oh, thank you... It is better.) I replied, almost too confidently. But when I stared at the Spanish menu, I realised I had been so used to Portuguese that now I had to re-recall my Spanish with difficulty: Zanahoria??? Er... Oh, that's cenoura, carrots!! Err.... Durazno? What's that? I forgot... Ah, pessego! Yes, peach peach..."

How do people with multiple languages handle so many languages in their heads?

FOZ DO IGUAGU, BRAZIL - 27 October, 2002
Today was my six month anniversary of my trip. I landed in China (without my backpack, remember? gosh, how long ago it felt!) on 27 April. Today was 27 October. I couldn't have given myself a better present!

As I was heading to the Igaucu Falls, I wondered if I should have gone with a friend I made at the hostel. But when I arrived at the falls, I was glad I went alone so that I could enjoy my solitude and be in touch with my thoughts.

As I turned the corner and caught the first sight of the falls, I was floored. I had mentally prepared myself for this and yet, I was floored. The immensely captivating sight of the falls (and the best was yet to come!) left me in awe, with my mouth hanging open. I refused to move. People came, did a snappy and moved on. I grew roots there and savoured.

So many thoughts went through my head then. I would share some, even if it leaves the readers thinking what a sentimental load of crap I am. I felt glorious to be alive to witness this sight. I wondered how I deserved to be here, to stand before this priceless treasure, this unmeasurable wonder. I'm nothing! I can be gone tomorrow but this waterfall will flow forever, like it had always been doing!

About three or four years ago, I had gone to an omnitheatre in Singapore and watched a 3D show about the wonders of the world or something. One of the wonders featured was the Iguacu Falls. At that time, when I learnt it was in Brazil/Argentina, I had thought to myself, "Oh, that is impossible!! I can never get the chance to go to Brazil or Argentina!! They're too far, so exotic, so difficult to get there and I will not know how to travel there! Gosh, the Iguacu falls is magnificent but I may never see it in person!!"

Never say never. This thought flashed in my head when I was there and I had to say then, "Hey!! I'm here. I'm right in front of the falls! I had realised something I had thought impossible!" It was almost the same feelings I had when I was bulleting on the Trans-Mongolian train through Siberia. I had also thought that impossible.

While I felt undeserving of the honour to be at the falls, yet, I felt deserving because I made the effort to come here and my reward was this! Plus the chance to experience these overwhelming feelings and the appreciation of how I want to lead my life and that I can change the things that I can to do what I want.

I realise I am gushing now. Usually, I am not like this. I am a lot more sensible. Bear with me. The readers must think I am some sentimental slob by now, but really you had to be here yourself.

And that was just at the start of the trek.

By the time I got to the Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat) - the most incredible part of the falls which was shaped like a horse-shoe, my head popped into a total blank. I over-saturated myself with feelings. I ran out of thoughts. I walked all the way to right in front of the falls and drenched myself with amazement, soaking in the essence of the power of the falls. Nothing was in my head then. I just lingered in all the glorious sprays and stared into space.

FOZ DO IGUAGU, BRAZIL to PUERTO IGUAZU, ARGENTINA - 28 October, 2002
The next day, just when I thought things couldn't get any better, they did.

From the Brazilian side, we saw the overall view of the falls from a respectful distance but at the Argentinian side, we were walking right ON TOP of the falls, the tremendous force of water gushing down at our feet.

Maybe because of the intensity of being so close to the falls, my thoughts flitted to the small, silly, ridiculous details - the patch of grass growing at the edge of the falls, right in the path of the falls: How did it survive and grow there, being whammed and trashed by the falls everyday all the time?; The butterflies: What in the world were they THINKING??? They were fluttering so so so close to the falls when a single drop could kill them! They were dancing with death!; And these swifts building their nests beneath the falls: Hey, you crazy pajaros!! Oh well, they must be proud of their prestigious home address.

At each viewpoint, I stood mesmerized, a silly grin on my face. At the last viewpoint, which was right in front of the top of the Garganta del Diablo (the day before, I was at the bottom bit), I was staring at a profanely copious amount of brown water crashing down, mere metres from me. I felt weak in the knees in view of such power. Tears smarted in my eyes. I'm so lucky to be alive to see this, I chanted. I gagged for breath. I was choked for words.

I looked around for someone and a woman (I learnt later from Ecuador - sweet dear) next to me returned my look and we connected, we knew. I walked around the platform, like a confused person, shaking my head in disbelief and then, raising my head to face the sight in front of me again. Yes, believe it, dear. The Iguacu Falls had shared its magic with me. I felt like soaring in the sky like those crazy swifts below.

I returned 40 mins late to my bus and found that they had left without me. Yeah, in other words, they ditched me. The day before, some people returned two hours later and the rest got really mad, so I think my driver feared I was going to pull the same stunt. As I was the only one to be left at the Argentinian side as I had crossed the border (the rest returned to Brazil), I guess the driver thought all the more he could leave me here.

OK, being ditched is never a good feeling but hey, I didn't care. After witnessing the magic as the last highlight, being ditched was NOTHING.

Of course, when my rational thoughts returned and I found I had only 4 Argentinian pesos with me, I panicked a little. I found later the bus ride to town was 2 pesos. Told you things would work out...

Questions?
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