Day Seven
After breakfast and a short beer run (we were on our 15th case of the local Efes beer - which was obviously very tasty) we left the harbor to find another quiet cove. A swim and a nap and a delicious lunch of green beans with tomatoes and bulgur - and we were ready for another swim and another nap. We played a challenging nine holes of frisbee golf amongst the wild goats and pine trees, but kept thinking about a carpet we had seen in the Kas carpet shop. The slow tourist season because of the earthquake, and lack of British and German tourists and the end of the tourist season was inducing an atmosphere of panic amongst the carpet sellers and we were getting caught up in the frenzy. We returned to Kas harbor for the evening.
To detail our evening carpet buying adventure would be far too long so I will relay the abridged version. It all started before dinner when we all entered a large and well-stocked carpet shop and met Ismail. Ismail did not lack energy and, as one of our members pointed out, was in great need of Prozac. He bounced off the walls from one carpet to another yelling to his helpers, insulting our group members for not purchasing or for being ignorant in our knowledge of carpets. After seeing a few carpets that we really did like, he spit out one too many insults for my group and we walked out. Then another group walked out and so on until there was only one group left. By this time Ismail was insanely angry that he had lost his five customers. So angry that he told the last group that they could have their signed Hereke silk carpet for $500.
By the time we got back to the boat, after visiting another carpet shop with a much more mellow salesman, we were told that Ismail had returned to the yacht, demanding the return of the carpet he had sold. Eventually he was lured into promising that if we all returned to his shop, we could have any carpet in his shop for $500. We reviewed our options at dinner and after much debate our unanimous decision was to go back to Ismail, and if he kept his word we would buy. We went back - most of us hid behind some bushes until we confirmed that he was unarmed and not dangerous. With a big smile and open arms Ismail welcomed us into his shop and kept his promise.
We purchased six carpets that evening - all for $500 each. We had a great time, laughing, joking and watching Ismail bounce from one group to another praising the virtues of each carpet and the maiden who wove it. One by one we chose our carpets. By the time we finished and all the carpets were folded and wrapped - it was midnight.
So what did we learn? We learned that carpeting buying in Turkey is a totally unique transaction - more similar to a courtship than a purchase. It is a romantic quiet courtship for some and a wild and exciting courtship for another. Regardless of which experience you have - it is very satisfying and entertaining. Just relax and enjoy the ride.
If you want a unique antique kilim or carpet and can handle a very intense and relentlessly persuasive salesman, then visit Ismail at the Attila Carpet Shop in Kas. Don't be intimidated by him, he won't hurt you. He has unusual kilims that you will not find anywhere else.
If you prefer a more peaceful experience, visit Hakan at Magic Orient in Kas. They have a good selection of both new and old carpets and kilims at good prices.
Questions?
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