Day One
Our destination was the Blue Voyage from Dalyan to Antalya. We made the magical journey of Homer's Odyssey last year, but had not quenched our thirst for the history and beauty of the turquoise coast. This year we decided to begin at Dalyan, where we left off last year, and sail on to Antalya. Our group of 11 was met at the Dalaman Airport by our Captain Hasan who transported us in an air conditioned bus to our yacht. As we approached the small dock at Ikincik, we saw our 90 foot Gulet, the Gundogan (The Dawn). She was larger than we had remembered - huge in fact. We knew right then that we were in for an outstandingly good time. We were greeted with big smiles and handshakes by our Chef Mehmet and Crew Dogan and Haso. We boarded our yacht and made ourselves at home.
Day Two
Dalyan was the favorite stop on our voyage last year. A lush green valley hidden in the Mediterranean landscape that surprisingly reminds you of Vietnam. To get to the village Dalyan you hire a water taxi which picks you up at your yacht and meanders (meander is actually a Turkish word that derives from the River Meander) in through 9 miles of bamboo reeds filled with exotic birds, Loggerhead turtles, Bamboo reeds towering above your head and glimpses of 4th Century BC Lycian tombs as a backdrop. This was our lucky day as we spotted five loggerhead turtles on our journey.
Cuanos was the first stop on our water taxi ride. Presumably of Darian or Carian origin, these ruins are currently being excavated, but are worth a visit. Our favorite part of Cuanos is the hike (or climb) up the Hellenistic fortifications that extend upward from the last east side of the Amphitheater. The climb is challenging; a good pair of shoes, some climbing experience, water, and two free hands is required to complete it. Several members of our party were unable to finish the climb and chose to tour the many ruins in the area. But the climb is well worth it. Standing at the top of the mountain overlooking the valley of Dalyan you can certainly see why this city has been inhabited for over 2,400 years.
The tapestry of orange and tangerine groves and fields of agricultural products separated by a meandering Dalyan river and framed by the Lycian tombs is truly breathtaking. The climb down can be a bit intimidating, so try to find the path on the right side which is a relatively easy way down.
Continuing on our journey through the river to the village of Dalyan we passed through Turtle Beach which is one of the only breeding grounds on the Mediterranean for loggerhead turtles. It was daytime so there were no turtles around, but it was pretty.
After a light lunch of fish at a local riverside restaurant named "Melodi". We negotiated robustly for $4.50 per person which included salad, a variety of appetizers and a fresh fruit, local fish "Kefal" and "Green Mullet". By this time we had been meandering along the river to the south end of the Koycegiz lake for four hours.
Twelve minutes later we arrived at the thermal mud baths. We slopped ourselves with mineral mud until we were fully covered from head to toe. We baked in the sun 45 minutes until we were completely petrified and we removed the mud by crumbling it and rubbing it of which had a wonderful effect of exfoliating and leaving our skin baby soft. After a dip in the thermal pool we were off again on our water taxi back to the yacht, where cocktail hour was officially commenced.
Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our Middle East Insiders page.
