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Indigenous Markets in Guatemala
By Nancy Hoffman

Look in any guidebook or tourist brochure and the name "Chichi" will jump out at you. Chichicastenango, or "Chichi" as it is called (map), is located about a 2½ hour drive from both Guatemala City and Antigua and less than one hour from Panajachel ("Pana").

At 2030 meters (6600 ft), Chichi has a large market every Thursday and Sunday. Though some fruits, vegetables and other staples are sold, it is for the textiles and other souvenirs that folks come for.

In Chichi, you can find a large (at times overwhelming) selection of textiles - bedspreads, tablecloths, clothing, wall hangings, weavings, and more. You can buy almost anything there and price negotiation is the rule.

A less known market occurs every Friday in San Francisco el Alto. At 2640 meters (8400 ft), San Francisco el Alto is about 4 hours west of Antigua by car. Here you will find a wide variety of fruits, vegetables, household items and textiles. Unlike the tourist orientation of Chichi, San Francisco el Alto is a market "by the people, for the people".

Follow the road up to the open-air animal market where you will see all the pigs, goats, cows, horses, chickens, turkeys, ducks, cats, dogs, horses (and more!) for sale or trade. Just 16 km. from Momostenango, in San Francisco el Alto you can find a nice selection of their woolen blankets for sale.

Still want to experience more? No need to leave Antigua. Though market days are every Monday, Thursday and Saturday, the biggest and best day for the Antigua market is Saturday.

Located at the bus station in a permanent "mercado" which is open daily, the most interesting part of "market day" is outside and behind the building where people travel from all over the area to sell their fruits, vegetables and flowers. There is also a section of clothing for sale referred to as "ropa americana" where (if you dig through the piles of clothes) you can find new GAP jeans for Q30 or less!!!

Apart from the 3 markets above, there is some type of market held every day in the small towns and pueblos of Guatemala. The market is more than a place to buy and sell goods - it is an important social and cultural part of this multifaceted society.

In any town or pueblo you visit while you are here, don't miss the local Church (Iglesia) - blending Catholicism with Mayan influences and ritual. Don't forget to arrive early for market day as "the good stuff" is gone by noon!

Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our Central America Insiders page.


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