I was hiking in the rain forest below the Arenal volcano in Costa Rica. It was the rainy season and consequently had been raining hard for the last two hours that we have been in the jungle. Though I do have a Gore Tex jacket, I am told it is useless in this climate. My jacket would be too warm and perspiration would quickly soak me. So, here I am hiking in a jungle, two hours from the trail head, in a cotton tee shirt and long nylon pants.

The surprising part is - I am fairly comfortable. The rain is not cold, the temperature is a moderate mid 70's, and a situation that would quickly be a tragedy in the northeastern United States is not a problem here.

The trail follows the base of the volcano and is in good condition. It is not too steep or slippery, with gentle ups and downs. Our guide, naturalist Alex Martinez, stops every few minutes to describe the characteristics of plants, vines, shrubs, ferns, grasses and trees. He explains this is a second or third growth forest, with all mature trees cut. Not many years ago, this was all pasture or farm land. Now the jungle is reclaiming this land, and if you were to step off trail, you would be met with an impenetrable mass of trees, plants and vines. Everything is still growing, and it will be a while until evolution figures out what will become the next huge majestic trees and plants, and what will be crowded out and returned to the soil. Eventually, this evolutionary process will thin out the jungle, and you will be able to bushwhack through an area of towering trees, see exotic animals, bird life and plants found nowhere else in the world.

"Wait, Shh," Alex raises his hand. We all freeze and many people automatically raise binoculars. We are trying to find the origin of a bird singing. Some feel it may be a maccho. Not today, but we did spot several species of birds.

We intently look for howler monkeys. No luck. Continuing on, we arrived at the base of the mountain. This is a very old lava flow, with boulders and views of the volcano all around.

We have lunch, a few minutes for observation and photography, then pack up for the hike back. Within an hour, we cross a small stream and are in the mini vans, for the ride to the hotel Arenal Paraiso Resort, a few miles away.

We decide to stop at the hot springs. There are two, one is comprised of man-made pools with the hot streams running from pool to pool, cascading slightly downhill. There are also cold pools to cool off in. The first pool is supposedly the hottest, since this is where the stream enters, but they all feel the same temperature, within a degree or two. Rumor has it the government is considering closing both hot springs, since they are in the direct path of a lava flow, that is, if the volcano erupts. Also, once it does erupts, you would have approximately thirteen seconds to get out of the water before you are cooked alive. You should experience the springs while you can. Admission is approximately $7 US dollars.

Checking into the hotel, everybody is impressed. There is a main lodge with fresh tea and coffee (free) and soda, juice, and bottled water. There is a computer station available, with comfortable chairs about. The lodge is surrounded by small roads and cabins. Phones are available by the lodge and in some cabins. Our cabin had two double beds, a nice bathroom, and Satellite T.V.

Outside of each cabin was a small patio with two chairs, facing the volcano a few miles away and two to three thousand feet above us. Each night we would gather to watch the top glow and observe streams of lava flow from the summit. Sparks of red light were boulders rolling downhill, bouncing from spot to spot, breaking apart from thousands of degrees of heat, becoming smaller, cooling, fading, becoming small rocks and pebbles, rivulets of hardened lava.

There was also a beautiful patio area with reclining lounge chairs that surround three oval shaped pools, one which was a wade in heated sit down bar pool, so you could enjoy your favorite libation with a view of the volcano.

A hiking trail leads downhill for about a mile to the river. Be careful, it's steep and slippery. If you climb between the barbed wire fence, on the next property you will find a family of howler monkeys. Birding enthusiasts will find plenty of opportunity on this resort property.

We leave early the next day, our destination is Playa Carrillo, on the Pacific coast. After a six hour ride and a scenic ferry ride, we arrive at Hotel Esperanza, managed by a delightful couple from Canada, Marisa and Guy Orfali. Our hosts welcomed us with a split coconut filled with sweetened coconut milk, flavored with vanilla, nutmeg and honey. We then scooped out the coconut with spoons. Rum was provided to mix with the coconut meat.

It's a very small hotel, less than a dozen rooms, and unfortunately, some rooms had a distinct smell of bug spray. One couple even relocated to another hotel. I put the ceiling fan on high and left the window and door open. I had no trouble sleeping or any ill effects the next day. Hammocks are available, but the very small wading pool was closed. We had three excellent breakfasts and two great dinners, with local fish and baked chicken, all served with salad, rice, plantain, and vegetable medley. One night Guy made his signature dessert, bananas flambe, made with rum, orange, sugar and served on a incredibly green banana leaf. Hopefully, they will solve the room problem in the near future because I would not have a problem returning here. The hotel is also exactly a five minute walk downhill on the road to the beach. It's a nice beach, safe, with no strong currents and moderate waves. There is snorkeling by the rocky headlands.

The following day our group was relocated to the Hotel Brisasdelpacifico, a few miles away and directly on the beach. There is a pool and bar, with a nice restaurant. I highly recommend their seafood salad. It comes with octopus, squid, shrimp, lobster, clams and oysters, all sautéed in their natural juices, served on a bed of mixed greens with tomato, onions and olives.

One morning we hiked to a mango plantation that was beautifully manicured, with roads and cut grass. We followed rolling hills next to the ocean and climbed the highest promontory, with cliffs falling to the sea. The mango crop is no longer harvested for production, but is still maintained. If you come in April, you can pick as many mangoes as you want.

Another day we traveled in search of a bathing and snorkeling beach. It was extremely hot and muggy. I feel as if I am cooking and bathing myself with my sweat. We found a small beach, surrounded by a rocky coast. It was too rough to swim or snorkel, so we continued to walk among the rocks. We came to an exposed tidal pool, where we examined sea urchins, crabs and small marine life. Hiking on rocks by a turbulent sea is hard work, very uneven, slippery, trying to avoid the algae and rogue waves that could lead to a nasty fall. We returned to the beach and sort through sea shells and follow the ghost crabs.

We are off in search of a better beach. Driving the mini vans, trying to make sense of conflicting directions. Five kilometers, make a right. Alex asks a local. No, no, at least 15 kilometers, then you must cross the river. The road soon becomes dirt and is narrow. We must pull over to allow vehicles to squeeze by from the other direction. Soon we are at the river. No bridge and the stream must be at least three feet deep. We watch small 4 x 4's and large trucks ford the river. Our van is front wheel drive and too low. Our insurance would never allow this. We return to the hotel.

Later, an hour before sunset, we all meet at a local bar high on top the cliffs, overlooking the beach and ocean. Alex buys me a rum and coke, made with Nicaraguan rum. I ask for a twist of lemon/lime, a native fruit. Not nearly as sweet as the States. It does not have that syrupy, overly sweet taste I am accustomed to. It's strong, yet smooth, and very good. We talked about things all people talk about while on vacation - our families, friends, jobs, our inspirations and aspirations. We quiz our guide Alex on his experiences as a game warden, local politics and customs. Then the sun is getting lower, lower, on the horizon, a blazing color of orange/red. Quickly it fades and the show is over. It is now dusk and we all make plans for dinner.

On the day before departure, driving back to San Jose, we stop at a farm commune, operated and run by friends of Alex. We have a wonderful breakfast, with fresh slices of papaya, pineapple, watermelon and bananas. There were long rolls of warm, fresh crusty French bread, with cream cheese, jelly, butter, and liverwurst spread and fresh brewed coffee and tea.

Then we all gather outside for a tour of the farm. This is reclaimed jungle. They are slowly bringing the soil back to a creamy loam, so the fields are fertilized with natural decaying matter, animal manure, and vegetable waste. They rotate crops of corn, papaya, plantain, pineapple and other vegetables. This farm is managed by several families, many who have outside jobs. They hope to become totally self sufficient and profitable one day.

One farmer explains natural evolution on the land. The jungle is cleared of large trees and all salvageable lumber is sold. Next all brush is removed and the land is tilled. Then it is fertilized, and when ready, crops are planted and rotated yearly. When the soil is exhausted, trees are planted to be harvested some day. He expects his coffin to come from this wood.

I observed the field. There is a beautiful example of a living fence. A row of trees, spaced six feet or less apart, strung with barbed wire. This actually is a conservation measure, since the trees last much longer than wooden posts, which rot in the ground in less than ten years and have to be replaced. Slightly uphill is an impound pond lined with plastic to provide water for the crops during the dry season.

Our next stop is the small town of Sarji, not far from the capital city of San Jose. There are many shopping opportunities here with wood and leather chairs, small wood statures, jewelry boxes, and wooden salad bowls. Most small vendors were willing to haggle on prices.

I purchased Meseta 100% pure Cafe De Costa Rica Oro Molido coffee in a blue and silver aluminum foil package. It has a richer taste than American coffee, yet is mild. Do try HEART of PALM, a vegetable that is harvested from the root of a very young palm tree. The palm tree is planted like a crop, harvested, and is a continually renewable crop. The taste reminds me of artichoke with a slight tang. If you like it, try and see if it is pickled in jars and take some home. Liquors can be a good buy, but don't forget you have to lug bottles around the airport, and store the liquor in your carry on luggage, because the cargo hold is not pressurized and the bottles could explode. Yes, you can save money, but is it worth it when you can buy the same product at home and save yourself the headache?

On our last night we stayed at the lovely Posada Mimosa Inn, located in Grecia, 25 minutes outside of San Jose. It is very clean with a beautiful pool overlooking the valley below, with a kitchen area and outside dining area. There is an honor bar with wine, beer and soft drinks available.

Impressions of Costa Rica
This country is definitely not third world. Think second world. Their housing, roads and infrastructure do not meet the same standards as the United States, yet the country is very livable. They have squatters rights, so if you ever buy a house or property, you should make sure someone watches over it, lest you return and it is no longer your domain.

All citizens are guaranteed by law free medical coverage. I did not notice a strong police presence (there is no military), but Alex assured me there is a very strong, entrenched beaucracy.

This country is blessed with mountains, volcanoes, jungles, beaches and land for grazing and farming. Everything grows quickly in this climate. Tourism is strong. Most citizens have lower middle class incomes.

I did not snorkel. The water was not clear. Nor did I travel high above the jungle canopy attached to a cable and harness. I did not swim with the sharks, dolphins or anything else. But I did experience a volcano, jungle, coastal mango plantation and local flavor in the rainy season, by traveling through a large part of the country. This was my seven days in Costa Rica.

Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our Central America Insiders page.