I've visited four of the Cyclades Islands: Paros, Naxos, Ios and Santorini. At all, the people were friendly, the accommodation cheap and cosy, the food delicious and the weather superb. But each had a distinct personality too. Paros had its relaxed fishing villages. Naxos had kilometres of golden beaches. Santorini's deservedly reknowned for its spectacular volcanic coastline. And Ios? Well Ios is the party island.

I'd originally opted against going to Ios. My itinerary was tight enough already. But, on the boat from Naxos to Santorini, my friends Deb, Cath and I spontaneously decided to disembark at Ios and catch the night boat to Santorini, eight hours later.

We'd heard a lot about Ios during our travels and wanted to know what all of the fuss was about. The sight which greeted us as we docked was one of sheer beauty. A horizon of hills promised amazing views, the handful of restaurants lining the ocean bathed in the afternoon sun, and the moored luxury yachts danced on their reflections in the translucent Aegean Sea. The three of us were dumbstruck by the spectacle. Then we tried to capture it all on film. Surely this place wasn't the Ios we'd heard so much about.

After speaking with an American couple who'd already spent a couple of nights on the island, we soon found out we were in the wrong place if a party was what we were after. After dark, the town of Chora (a short bus ride or uphill hike away) is the centre of action. With its multitude of pubs and clubs, it "rocks" until dawn breaks. Most revellers then sleep off their hangovers and work on their tans simultaneously at the beach. Or, for those with more stamina, the days are all about para-sailing, jet skiing or windsurfing. Day turns into night and the process repeats itself for weeks...sometimes months...until the traveller either runs out of money or finally decides it's time to move on.

Ios is the real life version of the movie "Groundhog Day". It's that film where actor Bill Murray experiences the same day over and over. On Ios, every day is like the next. But the locals like it that way. I say "locals" but there are few Greeks to be found amongst the rampant tourism here. Most of the shop assistants and bar attendants are native English speakers from across the globe.

Oh, and Aussies and Kiwis looking for a home away from home..."Welcome to Ios". Or, as Shane (a bar attendant originally from Perth, Australia) puts it, "Welcome to Bali."

After exploring the port, Cath, Deb and I headed to beautiful Mylopotas Beach, to stretch out and absorb the dying rays of the day, and to take in the sights. By sights, I don't just mean the spectacular landscape either. Not far up the beach were a few uninhibited men SANS SWIMSUITS, lying sunny-side up.

Before 5pm, the music starts to crank up and it's emanating from all directions. We decide to follow the loudest strains to their source: Far Out Camping. Situated right on the beach, it's soon obvious this is a favourite haunt of the 18-22 year old set.

The poolside is packed with bikini girls and as many male admirers. The bar area's not yet full, but there are a few groups (consisting mainly of young Australians) who are getting into the spirit of things (and appear to have been for several hours). The food (multi-coloured mushy stuff in a heated glass cabinet) is doled out unenthusiastically. It's overpriced and tastes as it looks. The accommodation is basic. According to those staying here, it's share tents or bungalows and don't expect to get too much sleep.

That said, those who do come here aren't looking for the authentic Greek Island experience. And if you're only looking for nightlife and long days at the beach, then put this place on your itinerary.

With the sun on the slide, we begin our walk back to the port, taking a "short cut" up the rough and almost vertical "donkey track". The huffing and puffing was more than worth it. Looking back, we watched the sky turn pink and sun flood Mylopotas Beach with its orange glow.

As we continued, the background noise changed from raucous rock to clanging bells. A local farmer was herding his goats down the hillside. It was a refreshing reminder of what real Greek island life is about.

By the time we reached Chora, the place was bustling. The lights were on, the shops were open and the restaurant hawkers were doing their best to lure people in. It wasn't exactly party time, but teens and twenty-somethings dressed to impress were beginning to filter in. Our attire left a lot to be desired so we couldn't stay long. We had a good mosey though before stumbling down the steep track in the pitch dark to wait for our ferry.

It would have been fun to stay on at Ios. I was glad we'd squeezed it in, even it was just for eight hours. Two days would be better to really sample the atmosphere and scenery. Although any longer and you're at risk of becoming lodged in "Groundhog Day".

Questions?
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