If Belgium is known to anyone, for anything more than its beer and its chocolate, then it must be on account of the Ardennes. Encompassing a relatively small, yet astonishingly beautiful, area they can be found in the country’s southeast corner, in close proximity to the borders of both Luxembourg and Germany.

One overcast Saturday morning I was filled with more determination than ever to visit a part of Belgium so close to me, yet one that I’d for so long neglected in preference of Brussels, Bruges and Antwerp. With my time in Belgium drawing to a close, I decided it had to be now or never, and what a lovely day I had.

The towns of Coo and Stavelot are easily accessible from Liege – the town rather unfortunately referred to as the effective gateway to the Ardennes.

Stavelot Arch

On no accounts should you base your illusions of the romantic Ardennes, before arriving there, on Liege – a rather grimy, filthy and industrial place you’ll be pleased to leave behind. Trains run every two hours from Liege, in the direction of Luxembourg. I’d advise you to get off at ‘Trois Ponts’ (Three Bridges) though. Not because there’s anything of particular interest there, but this is the place to be to pick up the bus for a quick ride over to Stavelot, just 5km away. Stavelot is a quaint little town and well worth a visit for a number of reasons. It boasts many architecturally interesting buildings and structures, including an Abbey (currently under renovation) dating back to the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries and an immense and impressive Arch nearing a thousand years old.

Let yourself wander to see what is across the other side of the river and you’ll certainly be struck upon beholding what must definitely be one of the smallest and oldest of churches that I have ever had the chance to come cross. If you're not up to visiting the three or so museums also to be found in this dear town, it is still worth making a bee line for Stavelot (in the direction of the Tourist Office) if you’re a walker or a rambler and desire to uncover and explore further the delights of the Ardennes on foot.

At the Tourist Information Office, ask for ‘une carte des promenades de Stavelot’ – that is, if you can manage a few words in French! If not, you might do just as well to ask for ‘a map of walks around Stavelot’ and this costs 200 BEF. There are many walks to chose from, of various lengths, and each one individually identified with a name and symbol. You might be forgiven for thinking that this arrangement was designed to help you instead of hinder and somewhat puzzle you (but going on Belgium’s general ineptitude at labelling and indicating anything, it hardly comes as a surprise).

That aside however, I’d advise you to head towards the small village of Coo, approximately 5km away, if you think you fancy a stroll anywhere! And if you do give up with the labelled map idea completely, you could just always follow the road signs, designed for the motorists as opposed to hikers, and you’ll fare just as well. You’ll be rewarded with some lovely scenery of rolling hills, woods and unique houses along your walk, which also runs virtually parallel to the river down in the valley below. And be sure to say “bonjour” to all the people you pass along your way, for the folk out in the country are known to be quite a bit friendlier than your average Belgian!

On approaching Coo, you’ll descend a fair bit, down a winding tour through a wood. Given the size of Coo, you won’t find any signs to point you in the direction of the centre. On approaching the station, turn right and continue to walk for a further five minutes where you’ll then be dumbfounded with the choice of activities on offer for you.

Twin Waterfalls of Coo

Coo plays host to a whole range of outdoor activities from kayaking, to mountain biking, quads and paint balling, mini-golf and even more walks! There’s even a small adventure park with rides in this village. However, be sure to see the waterfalls that made their appearance there at some point between the fifteenth and seventeenth century. It is also worth taking the cable car to the top of the "mountain" and be sure to ask for a return ticket at the bottom unless you are wearing a good pair of boots and you fancy an adventure! The descent on foot is by no means easy, considering how steep the hill actually is, and the fact that it is advertised that it takes just 20 minutes. Think twice before attempting this, but do make it to the top, as the view is absolutely fantastic.

View from the top of the "Mountain".

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