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Antibes Beach in February.
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When we told our friends one January evening that instead of heading south of the border we'd be spending a month on the French Riviera or Côte d'azur, their reaction was: "Did you win the lottery, or are you just hallucinating?!" This led to a few retorts on our part, such as: "Well, wouldn't you love a winter vacation with more than sun, sand, institutional food and wall-to-wall tourists?" and "And what's wrong with getting safety, variety, history, good transportation, excellent food, and culture too"? Those were all things our research told us we'd find on the Riviera, not to mention the fact that this beautiful region is one of the great travel bargains of our time.
If you're still thinking the Côte is just for movie stars and millionaires with yachts and money to burn, let me assure you that it's also an affordable destination, with rental apartments offering all the conveniences and comforts of home for those who are neither rich nor idle. With the franc at a low level against American and Canadian dollars, the Riviera has never been such a bargain. Although it's jam-packed in summer, it's not overcrowded at all in the winter. We've twice spent a month there, and would like to give you a quick tour and an indication of what you can find.
The Côte stretches about 120 miles westward from the Italian border, along France's Mediterranean shore. Its best-known resorts are Menton, Nice (the administrative capital), Antibes, Cannes, and Saint-Tropez. And although it's not part of France, you also get the tiny Principality of Monaco as a bonus.
From Cannes westward the beaches are sandy; to the east the rugged coastline is spectacular. It's odd to see the Alps never far to the north, and their foothills reach the sea east of Nice. They shield the area from the cold north winds. You'll find palm trees all along the Côte, and citrus trees galore at Menton.
A Bit of Background
Until the British "discovered" it in the mid-1800s, there was little there except sleepy towns and fishing villages. All that changed with the arrival of the railway and Queen Victoria, who took a consumptive son there for rest and fresh air. Soon the Riviera became the place for nobility to avoid the English winter.
Gradually other European kings, queens, emperors and assorted aristocrats began to winter there and, with the added attraction of the resplendent casino in Monte Carlo, it acquired fame as the playground of the very rich. Lavish palaces were built in Cannes and elsewhere, and exiled Russian nobility became prominent residents of Nice. Soon "beautiful people" and authors began to arrive.
During World War II the Côte was a beacon for Allied airmen escaping occupied Europe, and a broad second front was opened there in late 1944. Shortly after the war ended the Cannes Film Festival began, and actors, media figures, and nouveau riche, and eventually even ordinary vacationers were added to the mix.
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A peaceful spot near Cannes.
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The Riviera Today
The fabulously wealthy still have estates and yachts there, but many of the earlier palaces are now office or municipal buildings. It's no longer just for the rich, though: depending on where you stay, there is something for everyone.
First and foremost, the water is always safe to drink. Getting around is a snap, since the region's infrastructure is first-class. In addition to city and inter-city buses it is well-served by many trains, including the "bullet" TGV.
A toll autoroute passes just north of all the cities, and the regional highways are excellent. From Nice eastward you have your choice of three gloriously picturesque "corniche" highways at varying altitudes, and the bridges and tunnels from Monaco to the Italian border are engineering marvels.
My only warning is not to use taxis, since they cost as much as CAD$10 per mile. Car rentals aren't expensive, but your best bet is to arrange for the Renault or Peugeot buy/sell-back plan before you go.
Although the French find February "cold", it's usually sunny shirtsleeves weather for a Canadian. Sportsmen will applaud the fine quality golf courses, and those whom the sight of the Alps in the distance makes homesick can always take a day trip to some of the world's finest winter scenery. It's sort of like living in Vancouver or Seattle, but without the rain!
If you appreciate cultural activities, there are orchestras, theatre and ballet performances, museums and art galleries galore. Because of the climate and the pure light, most of France's great artists painted in this area, and some of their works adorn churches and other buildings.
There are casinos large and small, elegant and informal. Our favorite was the one in the Film Festival Palace in Cannes, where the one-armed bandits proved unusually generous.
Accommodation & Cost
The secret to escaping the cold in style is to choose any of dozens of affordable "residences touristiques" (apartment hotels) scattered throughout the region.
From simple to luxurious, there is something for everyone, with no unpleasant surprises, since quality is strictly controlled by the French government. Travel agents can find packages to suit any need. When my wife and I went, we flew Air France round-trip from Montreal to Nice and spent a month in modern self-catering apartments surrounded by beautifully landscaped grounds. There was every convenience, and maid service was provided weekly.
Unlike some destinations, shopping in the Riviera offers as much variety as back home, although most manufactured goods cost about 25% more. However, by shopping for fresh produce at the local markets you can spend no more than you would have while shivering at home. And you can afford to enjoy all the variety the Riviera has to offer.
In subsequent articles I'll tell you about what we found in a few of our favorite places.
Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our Europe Insiders page.
