Amalfi: the Splendor Surpassed the Glitch - Amalfi, Italy

Amalfi: the Splendor Surpassed the Glitch

Amalfi, Italy

Amalfi Town

The weather and spectacular scenery made up for one major glitch of the Amalfi tour that I found out of the first hour of the first day.

After my Amalfi tour finished in Rome, I had a 6:15 p.m. flight air ticket for Venice. I found out instead of being in Rome at 4:00 p.m. to catch that flight, the bus would not arrive at Rome until 9:00 p.m. My travel agent was obviously misinformed by the tour company!

Needless to say I tried that day to enjoy my tour of Pompeii, a town destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius. I walked aimlessly in the heat trying to listen to the tour guide explain this awesome place, hoping to forget my troubles. The tour guide's voice was drowned out as I thought of what I had to do when I got to Hotel Vesuvio in Sorrento.

As soon as I got to my room, I got on the phone to change flight times. Because rules on my ticket stated to be used only at that time, I had to purchase another ticket only to be cut off due to poor phone lines. The other drawback was I had to find a hotel in Rome for the night. Frustrated at being cut off twice while on the phone with Lufthansa, I headed to the reception desk.

With the help of a wonderful man, I finally got my flight and hotel squared away and could relax for the rest of the trip.

The next day was a whirlwind tour of Capri. The highlight was the Blue Grotto. Though touristy, the shimmering blue water inside this cave was worth the visit. A combination of weather and tide was the ticket to get into the cave. Small boats take four passengers plus the driver, so you are asked the less you take the better. You have to lie down on the boat since the entrance is low and narrow. The driver pulls the boat in and out of the cave using a chain.

Our tour guide Marco would call us "Marco's family". If you can hold out, exchange your travellers cheques in Capri. I noticed an exchange shop in Anacapri "No commission" but of course I was too late since "Marco's family" was being paged.

Have the heebie jeebies of looking straight down a cliff? Don't sit by the window of the bus as it makes its way up to Anacapri along the, as Marco called it, "Mamma Mia Road". Anacapri is Capri's second town. As soon as we got off the bus, we headed to the department store. I didn't care for the shopping only to use the "free toilet". Elsewhere it'll cost you .50 Euros.

Plenty of shops to spend that "no commission" money exchange or simply browse while walking along the narrow alleyways. After our quick lunch (and I do mean quick) we headed back down to the town of Capri for a walk around before we caught the 3:30 ferry.

Whew! Whirlwind tour indeed. As the ferry moved further away from the island, I asked myself, "Did I see Capri?"

A private car picked me up the next morning for an unforgettable scenic drive along the most spectacular coast in the world with the twisting and turning of the road. The scenery was spectacular, for a lack of a better word. I could have sat and admired the rugged cliffs plunging down toward the blue sea. Hey, a glass of wine, bread and cheese would have been great too. The driver said we had to go.

After registering at my hotel, I was asked if I wanted a cappuccino. Taking my luggage to my room, splashed cold water on my face, I headed back down. I had to admit the cappuccino at this hotel was the best, not that I'm a cappuccino connoisseur.

My 3-star Hotel Cavalier in Amalfi is about a 20 minute walk to Amalfi Town, the coast's largest town, to start a two day less hectic stay. I was on my own.

Ah cafes to rest the weary bones. I noticed on this trip to Italy extra charges placed on items to eat outside. For example, to order a sandwich to eat outside is 2 Euros more than to take away or eat inside. Some cafes may just add cover and or service charge(s). Read the menu board before entering.

From Amalfi, I took the bus to Ravello for Euro 1.00. Getting on the bus you punch the ticket in the machine that displays the time on your ticket. If you buy a ticket with 80 minutes on it, you can use that ticket for the return. If it goes beyond that time, you'll have to buy another ticket in Ravello. For half an hour, the driver twisted and turned his way up toward Ravello at the same time negotiating with the traffic coming from the opposite direction on the narrow road.

I didn't spend long in Ravello, just to walk around and admire the coastline from high above.

Positano: a beautiful town one hour bus ride from Amalfi Town

The crème de la crème for me was Positano. John Steinbeck wrote "Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn't quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone." No kidding.

I caught the bus just outside my hotel. The hotel sells the ticket. For the hour long bus ride (depending on traffic again), I was mesmerized by the beautiful coast scenery on this hot spring day.

Comfortable walking shoes are a must because of the steep roads, alleys and little stairways. Then I made my way down toward the beach through narrow streets, shoppers displaying their wares. Clothes of all types hanging outside making the alleys more narrow.

The blue water looked inviting. But the beach is not like the Caribbean sand. All rocks. I cringed when I saw a few people laid on their towels on these rocks. Ouch! Doesn't that hurt? There are plenty of lounge chairs to which I'm sure you'll have to pay. I didn't ask.

I returned to Amalfi by ferry (Euro 5.00 one way) for a 25 minute spectacular coast view.

I spent the rest of the day wondering through the town of Amalfi. Though I didn't go in, I wandered up the steps of the 10^th century Duomo (cathedral) with its beautiful coloured façade of the 13^th century. Making my way back across the street, I went to Stella Maris. This café overlooks a small beach. Not being very hungry I had sprite and fries. I know, not quite adventurous (total came to Euros 8.00 including a cover charge of Euros 2.00).

The glitch happened on the last day of my Amalfi tour. I knew I was in for a long day. The bus ride ended, not at 9:00 p.m. but 11:15 p.m. After I checked in my hotel in Rome, I headed to the bar and drowned two vodka and orange juices. Being a patient traveler, I looked at my watch thinking I could have been in Venice. But, alas, this was one of the many stories I had to tell when I arrived back home.