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An Unabashed Gluttony Tour



Joe's Trip to Turkey 2001
By Joe Ehrlich

I am writing from Goreme, my old stomping grounds in the middle of Cappadocia. I have a few nights off here, while the others take tours around. The others? Oh, I almost forgot to mention, I am on a tour: the Eastern Emerald. This tour is a first for Fez Travel, while I have traveled with Fez several times before, this is the first time that they have offered this Eastern tour. Unlike their normal "Hop on, hop off" busses, this one has a bit more serious and more upscale clientele. And, of course, me. I am along just to throw off the curve.

(Disclaimer: I am sorta traveling as a guest of Fez, they made me an offer that I couldn't refuse)

Some of the places I have been to before (such as Goreme), others I have never been to (such as Van). We are staying in three star hotels and riding in a 16 passenger van with air conditioning. It is a new Turbo Diesel(!) van with no squeaks (unusual for Turkey) that was manufactured recently by Volkswagen. I feel right at home. Our group is very small, perhaps there were not many takers since it is still considered very "early" for the season. We have only six passengers including myself, three folks from Oz and a retired couple from Canada.

A teetotaling but jovial Turkish driver (whose name remains a mystery to me) drives the big, white van, along with a licensed Turkish tour guide (named Tanju, my spelling of his name will be improved upon at a later date). Also included in this overstaffed van is Brett, the "tour leader" from Fez Travel. Brett is an Aussie who I have traveled with before, so it's no worries mate. The Turks cannot make heads or tails out of his name and assume that he is saying "bread". He is now known as "Ekmek" which, of course, means "bread" in Turkish.

After taking in a few sights in Istanbul, we set off for Ankara. Ankara is the "new" capital, new since Ataturk decided to put it here. Since he hasn't been around for over 50 years, it ain't that new, but it is a lot newer than Istanbul. The purpose of the stop in Ankara was to visit the national museum. To be honest, I cut class the year that they discussed Byzantine history, so the 2000+ year-old treasures just made my eyes glaze over. A bunch of broken pottery that had been glued back together. Big deal.

After an hour of listening to people ooh and ahh at the old bits and bobs, we set off for Cappadocia. The group stayed in a fancy-pants hotel in Ürgup, while I went to sleep in a cave over in Goreme. My cave room is very cave-like, being an actual cave and all, but is ensuite and a bargain at only $7 a night. In the morning, I went around to catch up on gossip and see old friends, stopping occasionally to eat and nap. Last night, it was decided by these so-called friends that I should help deplete the town's vodka shipment with them, which I did without too much trouble.

Turkish vodka is wonderful stuff. If it is offered to you, say "no thank you" and quickly back away, and, speaking slowly and clearly, say "it is wonderful stuff" over and over, but don't actually drink any. You will thank me for this later.

This morning (when I eventually woke up, that is), a few of us rented Peugeot motorscooters and rode around gawking at things. We scootered over to Avanos, a town whose residents have been making pottery for over a zillion years. Let's just hope that they get the hang of it soon. While we were out and about with scooters, we stopped so that we could hike to the top of a big rock, just so that we could see the view and take photos from the top and for the others to guffaw at my hiking skills. I left the group and returned early just so that I could send you this note (and use the loo). Tomorrow we will set off early for Sanliürfa.

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