Our experience began with a 90 minute informal discussion with the tour leader showing videos of introductory rafting techniques, followed by more advanced explanations and footage of the section of river we would be traversing.
Needless to say we were shown some of the more spectacular rapids more than once, giving us that sick feeling of excitement in our bellies. This was followed by an explanation of the safety procedures we would be following, introduction of the guides, and the brief list of things we would need to bring with us.
Our group of 12 was the minimum number they would take. Generally groups range from 12-20. There were also 3 guides for the rafts and 2 in kayaks.
We began to assemble at the Plaza de Armas around 7am the following morning. Our very well-used minibus arrived around 8, already heavily burdened with equipment and provisions. After a few group photos, we climbed aboard, squeezing ourselves amongst oars and life jackets. It was too late for a refund.
After a 5 hour trip (excluding a 2 hour delay to change a wheel) we arrived at our drop point. We had travelled less than 50 miles from Cuzco, however the state of the roads were no better than those throughout Peru.
After lunch we received an hour's reiteration of basic manoeuvres and a more detailed instruction of safety measures and procedures, both in and out of the raft. All the rapids we would encounter that day were comprehensively discussed, which gave us a good impression of what to expect.
We then had to divide ourselves up into raft teams. I chose the 5 person raft. The balance of this choice was heavily weighted by the fact that the guide's name was Jesus, who was reassuringly well muscled, and had a (unsurprisingly) reassuring countenance. This proved to be an excellent decision, as Jesus was local, spoke excellent English, and spent the time between rapids explaining local customs, beliefs, and past experiences.
At the introductory lecture we were told that once dropped, the only way out was by raft. After pushing off that first afternoon, only once did we pass under a bridge and that was the only road we saw. Once we glimpsed a goat track, and we saw only 2 people outside of our group.
Throughout, the majority of the river bank consisted of steep cliffs 20+ metres in height, with encroaching dry forest and undergrowth. Our portage around a class VI rapid required extreme agility from all, and the strength of 10 well muscled persons to haul our rafts and equipment a mere 100 yards over large boulders and steep, smooth sided escarpments. These features made for inspirational scenery, but certainly limited our way out of the ravine to the river.
DAY 1
The first afternoon on the water we traversed class I to III rapids, which gave us time to become co-ordinated as a raft team and gather confidence for the more challenging rapids on the days to follow. We spent a long time going around in circles, practising sprints from one bank to the other, and cooling off under waterfalls.
Arriving at the first night's campsite (which are not always the same for each trip), we pitched our tents and went in search of a waterfall (freezing) to wash in while the guides organised dinner.
Throughout the trip the atmosphere was one of a lads camp out. The food was excellent and plentiful, and the stories large but amusing. While we were told we would be camping on sandy beaches, we quickly discovered a mat to be essential. The thin layer of sand at the first campground produced a very uncomfortable night for those without.
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Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our South American Insiders page.
