One of the three hundred and sixty five islands of Angra dos Reis Archipelago in Rio de Janeiro State, Ilha Grande is an ecologically preserved area. So, most of the activities are nature related. Hiking on well-marked trails, kayaking, snorkelling, scuba diving, fishing, swimming and boat tours kept us busy for the three weeks we spent there.

Surrounded by nature, one becomes more aware of its delicacy. Things that seem to be stony and inert, like coral, are discovered as living creatures that move and eat. Fish can actually "play". There is a reason we frequently use the phrase "cheeky monkey". One lone orchid can perfume a whole stretch of forest. Food is no longer tasteless and packaged. It comes from that tree over there, or in what we caught in the morning. You can taste the earth in the fruit, the sea in the fish. You don't want to spoil anything because you know it will come back to you in some way.

Anyone who enjoys shopping will be sadly disappointed here. Only the basics are for sale, in the pharmacy, newsstands, corner supermarkets, or at the handful of shops that survive from selling T-shirts, postcards and sandals. Some island artisans sell the jewellery they make in the main square at night, but even locals have to go to Angra for groceries, clothing, home items and hardware.

Brazilian breakfasts are "the" reason to get up in the morning. They begin with coffee and hot milk, followed by rolls, biscuits, cakes, ham, cheese, juice and a selection of fresh, jewel coloured fruit. Cafe do Manana, as breakfast is called, is always included in the price of the pousada, or small guesthouse.

The island is protected, but sadly, that does not mean much. Tourists drink millions of bottles of water and juice from plastic cups. The resulting rubbish is burned. Boats are fuelled by gasoline that leaves filthy rainbows on the water. The locals toss their garbage into the jungle and burn mattresses and tyres they can't use. Pousadas, shockingly, direct their refuse into the sea. Still, nature has not been tied down and crushed as it has in most parts of the world. Plants grow over the waste and the sea swallows the sewage with no complaint. So far.

We made an effort to preserve the place the best we could. The most frustrating thing was not being able to drink water from glass bottles. We used purifying tablets instead and re-used the plastic ones we had. All of our shampoo and soaps were eco-friendly and we encouraged our boat tour operators to use less fuel by turning the motor off when we were idle. If you visit this amazing place, please leave your mark by NOT leaving your mark!

Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our South America Insiders page.