Petén to Poptun: The Guatemalan North
By
Emma Beyn
POPTÚN
Once you've had your fill of the archaeological wonders of Tikal, a great way to break up your bus ride back to Guatemala City is a stop at the marvelous Finka Ixobel (tel: 927-7363). A backpacker's shangri-lah, this place is a working farm complete with tree houses, excellent food, fun adventure trips, and attack macaws. The place has been run by an American woman for the last couple of decades, and most people planning on just spending one night, end up staying over a week. If you have the time, you can even volunteer to work here for a month in exchange for room and board. The Finca sucks you in, and you'll have a hard time breaking away from it's spell.
Getting There
Any bus between Tikal and Guatemala City stops in the town of Poptún. If you're coming from the north, tell the bus driver you want to get off at the Finka. He should know where it is, but just in case, tell him to drop you off about 5 minutes south of town, past the airport, where there is a large sign declaring "Finca Ixobel." Whatever you do, don't get off in town, as it's a hot unpleasant hour long walk to the south and cabs are expensive.
If you're coming from the south, you'll pass through the town of San Luis, the last landmark before you should get off. You've gone too far if you hit the airstrip. If this happens, don't worry, just get off in Poptún and let a taxi to take you.
Once you get off the bus, you'll have about a 2 kilometer walk on a dirt road until you get to the actual heart of the farm. It's a lovely trip through pine forests and pastures. Eventually you'll reach a metal gate. Open it and cross over the grassy field, pass the volleyball net, and open the white gate into the heart of the Finca.
Here one of the friendly volunteers will give you a grand tour, explain the way things work with meals and activities, and generally settle you in. The whole place is astonishingly beautiful, and you're guaranteed to meet people from all over the world.
Don't miss the cave trip, where you'll have the opportunity to take a leap of faith and plunge into pitch black waters. There are also nightly fire circles, a swimming hole complete with hammocks, chess, a library, and the best food you'll eat during your whole trip. Really.
The Finca has a tab system, so be sure to keep track of what you're spending, as it catches up to you much faster than you'd expect. Dinner costs Q40, a tree house costs Q55 nightly, and the trips range form Q30-Q150. Slinging up your hammock or pitching a tent is cheaper, and there are also regular hostel-like dorms to lay your head.
When you're finally ready to move on, the best thing to do is get a ride back to the town of Poptún and catch any of the many buses south or north from there. The Finca provides bus schedules and taxi service.
Visiting Tikal
Places to stay when visiting Tikal
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Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our Central America Insiders page.